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Former Polaris regulator install - MK-1

3K views 3 replies 2 participants last post by  onewizard 
#1 ·
My Stator has failed for the second time. The factory unit at 44,000, and now today it's aftermarket replacement at 75,500. What has been the conclusion as to upgrading to the Compufire series R/R. My orig R/R has no signs of heat at any of the connections and when I do the impedance test per the manual I get resistance on way and none the other This tells me it's prolly rectifying from AC to DC, but it does not tell me if it's regulating at a predetermined point, and shunting to ground. Although before the new stator went up in smoke my voltmeter was peaking around 14-1/2 DC.

I'm looking for someone to confirm that the Compufire series RR is a good decision.

{ Onewizard} Caution , for those reading this thread, I COPIED POSTS FROM Burnt Stator / Versys 650 / Stator Testing/ Stator... That seemed relevant to the CompuFire Install, much more discussion in that thread .

Also before attempting a install read the testing threads, testing should be done before changing to Series regulator

Stator Output/ Stator Testing/ Device load Ratings 2015

Stator/How long/far can you ride on a battery without a...

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...related-those-converted-series-regulator.html
 
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#2 ·
Thread Moved From Burnt Stator Active Thread

So I guess that your answer to my question is "no". It seems that I cannot get a straight answer to my questions easily. Your PM was not clear with respect to these questions - otherwise I would not have asked them in the forum. I have not had the time to read all 420 posts in the thread to find out if the answer is in there somewhere. In the case of the valve checks, I can open the manual and see all of the steps laid out in front of me. I have not found that regarding stators, and I have been looking around. Perhaps I just cannot find what is obviously in front of me.

I have, in the past, had a great time on this forum, however the tone is definitely changing.
As to Polaris regulator I have added 3 posts which took me roughly 4 hours of my time,https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...17-revised-parasitic-drain-brake-trigger.html I have no problem sharing, just sometimes what I say may be interpreted differently by others,so as of 3/19/17 added more to this thread, what's a couple more hours if it helps someone.





Regulator / Series / Shunt / Star / Delta /explained and...

Comparison Of Ricks Stator;Stator / OEM vs Rick's Stator/ China Star...

Explanation of converting if using RM stator post #7 https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/23-sale/116209-rm-stator-sale.html?highlight=rm+stator

The same thing explaining star and delta with links in post #8 Former Polaris Regulator Install / Old / 2014 / Discussion

99/9% of technical info by me and others including the manuals can be found in the How To Forum

If in doubt ask, what is clear and simple to me may not be to others, I will say this, very few people in the world with the background that I have, however the tone is definitely changing, I assume you are referring to me, sometimes I take offense when the same question is asked a second time inferring there is someone out there with a better understanding, a simple way around that is to either quote me or PM me. That is where I will end it, a saying found on every blueprint I ever looked at related to induction furnaces went like this ; if you don't understand Ask, also, there are no stupid questions:thanx:
 
#3 · (Edited)
Plug & Play

I have begun reading this thread, but I know that I do not have the time to internalize it all. I have an '08 with just about 30,000 miles on it and I do not want to have it fail due to a bad stator. I would like to put a series R/R on my machine.

Two questions:
1 - Are there any plug-and-play series regulators? By this I mean an R/R that will bolt in and plug in without modification to my Versys, and
Short answer no, fundamentally there is a problem as Furukawa FSW 6-Pin connector is only made in the male configuration https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1103106-post16.html , if a male version was made then it would be a matter of connecting to a Triumph harness T2500676 Triumph Link Lead, Regulator $9.27 - 2WheelPros and my latest mod with the solenoid ground.
As to identical footprint , yes to the Polaris and no to the CompuFire , as it is larger and the fins are 90' , also Compufire has a 35 amp output when the stator can only produce 25 amp, so a bit over kill.


2 - What stators are plug-and-play? I see that Ricks sells a stator for the '08 Versys, but I am not sure that it works without modifications to the Versys.

I really would like a quick solution to this problem. I have a lot of faith in my Versys, but I am worried that I will be left stranded by it at some point because of the stator. I do not want to stop using the bike because I am concerned about its reliability.

Thanks for any information.
As to stators, OEM is Delta connected which is a connection used for higher current output, Y or Star connected is designed for higher voltage output and is typically the connection on all aftermarket stators because they cheat and use a single 18 gauge wire, when they should be two 18 gauge. So if you use a stator like RM or other Star connected you need a series regulator https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1349658-post18.html
As to plug and play, all stators sold specifically for the Versys come with the connector in place, however buyer beware,
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/74-how-forum/124601-stator-oem-vs-ricks-stator.html
 
#4 · (Edited)
Option #3 / Solenoid Ground /Relay

MK-3 Fasteddie post Former Polaris regulator install - MK-1

Option #3 copied from

Once I had crimped the connectors (3) onto the stator wires, I looked at WHERE (and HOW) I could route them, then after a 'trial-fitting', attached everything.





Glen also included some of that 'wire-loom' plastic so I enclosed the wires in it (THIS after trial-fitting the side fairing to ensure that everything would fit OK)...!





I also made this HELPFUL note:



...so I took a pic looking DOWN at the gas tank, right side....



On the Gen 1 Vs I'd had to cut a wire (going to the main fuse area) to stop an electrical drain, then add a diode to stop the drain, but on the Gen 3 there's been changes to some wiring.

Actually I ( Onewizard)came up with a easier method of isolation after a member got a little snarly and thought there should be a plug and play method., I intend to do the alternative method post in this thread, the advantage of this method is no tank removal.

This requires that you pull the MAIN (30 amp) FUSE, disconnect the plug that goes to the small covered area where the main fuse is, then as the "parasitic drain" happens thru the GROUND (black/yellow again) wire, you need to make it ONLY pass current when you want it to (while running the engine). The method is to cut that black/yellow wire (AGAIN leaving enough wire BOTH sides of the cut) to solder about 24" of wire to each end. (THIS 'breaks' that 38 milliamp drain.)



What you're going to do w/ the two 24" wires, is to run them to an "ORDINARILY OPEN" relay, and 'triggered' by either your running lights or stop lights, which I decided to put to the rear of the battery, towards the right side. Here are the two wires soldered, then 'shrink-wrapped' w/ them leading to the underseat area.



I used the 'rear running lights' as the trigger



then attached them thus: the "black/yellow" 2 wires go to #87 and #30, then are triggered by the running lights attached to #86, w/ the ground supplied by another wire going from a frame ground to #85.

HOW it works is, that by cutting that "black/yellow" wire you disable the drain, then by 'firing' (triggering) the relay by something ONLY powered ignition ON, everything operates normally on start-up.



And here's the left side "buttoned-up".



HOPE this is helpful to some of you....

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