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Buzz Resolved/ Cowling /(Unexpected Culprit)

78K views 149 replies 90 participants last post by  BaileyMan 
#1 · (Edited)
I own a relatively new '09 model with only 1400 miles on it, and the dreaded harmonic buzz emanating from the cowling area at around 4500rpm has been active on this bike for about half its life.

This kind of thing DRIVES ME CRAZY!

I have owned previous bikes with harmonic buzzing, and I've always been able to find and fix the source.

I almost gave up on finding the buzz on this Versys, but after a lot of effort I was successful.

The search process started as usual, trying to physically touch and thus quiet the offending piece while riding. Next, I tried revving the bike while parked to try and identify the buzz.

I could not find the buzz. Frustrating...

Next, I tried to be unorthodox, and applied Dynamat to the upper-inside of the gauge cowling, as well as the insides of the side-front cowlings. I went out and test rode the bike. Result, I wasted $20 on Dynamat.





So, the cowlings came off again. I started rapping lightly on the metal cowling/gauge frame with a rubber mallet. I could hear the instrument gauge unit buzzing lightly each time I did this. However, touching the gauges while rapping did not reduce the buzz.

This is an "AH-HA! I GOT YOU NOW, YOU LITTLE BASTARD!!" moment.

The buzz is coming from INSIDE the instrument gauge unit.

So, I removed the headlight to access removal of the gauge housing.





Then I removed the 9 screws on the back side of the gauge housing. Don't be afraid to do this. It is very easy and nothing falls apart or is difficult to put back together. No seals are broken either, so no worries.



I found 2 possible buzz sources inside the housing.

The first source is less likely, but I fixed it anyway; the white face of the gauges "floats" on top of the inner gauge body without really being very secure, even when it is sandwiched between the top and bottom of the gauge cases, so it still has a slight gap around most of its outer edge. I fixed this potential buzz source by minimally tack welding the white gauge-face edges to the inner gauge body using superglue. Easy, and I can easily use a razor to break the bond if I need to replace bulbs later.



The second possible buzz source was definitely causing most, if not all of the gauge buzzing. Looking at the picture below, you will see the two housings for the "Mode" and "Reset" micro-switches. The little "X"-looking pieces inside the round tube of the switch housing have too much free-play inside the round tubes. When the bike engine revs, the "X" pieces rattle against the inside of the round switch tubes.



So, I found the main buzz problem, but how did I fix it without affecting the performance of the two switches? That is the question.

The answer; with 2 small pieces of 1/4" heat-shrink tubing, slid between the "X" portion of the switch and the inner wall of the round switch housing. Looking at the picture below, you will see the top switch has the shrink tubing already installed, and the lower switch still needs to have the shrink tubing slid down into place. The shrink tubing must be cut short enough to allow the switches to function. If the shrink tubing is too tall it will limit switch function. Once the tubing was in place I heated it a little to keep it there. There is still enough play in the switch, but the "X" no longer rattles in the round switch housing.



So, I put the gauge unit back together, and tested the "Mode" and "Reset" switches before I installed the gauge unit. I reassembled everything else to the bike. A test ride revealed that I had indeed fixed the problem. No more buzzing, just the ability to enjoy the sound of the engine. :cheers:

If you want to test this potential buzzing source on your bike, try holding these switches down simultaneously while riding and hearing the buzz. If the noise stops, you know how to fix it.
 
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#3 · (Edited)
Wow...I think you and I live parallel lives. I did that very same thing a week a ago with my gauge. I used a few dabs of silicone to secure the faceplate but I missed your discovery about the buttons. I also tried the Dynamat, did not work for me either.

Another source of noise came from my right fairing. I cured it by placing a few strips of 5/16 inch thick foam between the fairing and the coolant tank. This allowed the 2 parts to compress enough to stop the noise from vibration.
 
#6 ·
well not so fast. i took my gauges off today and installed the shrink tube. but when i would shake them the rattle was coming from behind the small screen. i held everything tight but it still had a rattle inside. i don't see anyway of getting behind the screen without removing the circuit board. any idea's before i put it back together ?
 
#16 ·
I did the same thing Enigma did with zilch for results... What I found was the rattle was coming from the reostat that controls the tach...Short of desoldering the whole friggin board and having my wallet emptied by a few hundred :eek: I just buttoned it up and bought some ear plugs
And a side note: Took it to my Kaw dealer and Mr. Repair says if it ain't broke Mama Kaw ain't gonna fix it:confused:
 
#9 ·
Where, specifically, is "under"?

I see a black plastic piece that surrounds the headlight. On the bottom, that piece snaps into another black plastic piece. Two tiny tabs hold it in place. Not sure where your spacer is going. Thanks.
 
#11 ·
I read about a lot of buzzing, but my V has been silent in this regard.

Anyone else have a quiet one????

Maybe I'm just deaf in one ear and can't hear with the other...
 
#23 ·
Just got done COMPLETELY ELIMINATING Cowling BUZZZZZZ.

Went to ACO Hardware. got some of this self stick heavy duty felt. 4.5in. X 6in. X .25in thick. 2 sheets for 5 bucks.
Cut four pieces to about .25 in. x .50 in.
These I placed THESE in the tabs on the (inside of the) cowls that a-line and support the black 'surround' that extends from around the instrument panel down along the inside edge if the cowling halves.
Then i cut another piece about 4 inches long by .75 inches and slipped it between the upper arch of the "IP" surround and the "IP" it's self. ( this was the biggest offender..OMG!!!!!). NO disassembling of the black surround was necessary to to this last step...just gently separate the surround from the "IP" and slip in the felt ( adhesive exposed). Looks OK I think and what a job it did!!!!
Just got back from a final test run at all speeds (up to 95mph anyway) and.....
Nothin' but the roar of the engine.....SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET !!!!!!!!!

here are some pics.
 

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#25 ·
Where are you getting your information?

I can't comprehend how one engine would be better balanced than another if all engine parts are identical, come from the same source and go through the same assembly process with the same tolerances.

The cowling area is the area of buzz variability, not the engine.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Just got done COMPLETELY ELIMINATING Cowling BUZZZZZZ.

Went to ACO Hardware. got some of this self stick heavy duty felt. 4.5in. X 6in. X .25in thick. 2 sheets for 5 bucks.
Cut four pieces to about .25 in. x .50 in.
These I placed THESE in the tabs on the (inside of the) cowls that a-line and support the black 'surround' that extends from around the instrument panel down along the inside edge if the cowling halves.

Then I cut another two piece about 3/8 inches long by .75 inches and placed them on top of the factory padding located at the leading edge of the IP cover/dashtop (just aft of the top of the headlight assembly SEE "ELEMENTS" PHOTO IN THE ABOVE POST). This tightens up the front of the problem.
Remember...the BUZZ is a harmonic vibration so all we are really doing is taking away any slop in the fit and finish
NEXT...the plastic retainer pins? that hold the IP in place. kinda lose around there and THE REAL CULPRIT. A GENTLE HAND RESTING ON TOP OF THE DASH WHEN THE buzz IS PRESENT SILENCES THE NOISE Sooooo I made two leather washers from an old belt (just cut around the belt holes) and placed one each between the gauge cluster and the metal frame work the cluster attaches to. This tightens up the interface between The instrument cluster surround, instrument cluster its self, and metal framework supporting it all. Reassemble ( the pins will still work with the leather dampeners but I plan on replacing the plastic pins with stainless steel hardware).
Just got back from a final 150 mile test run at all speeds (up to 95mph anyway) and........
nothin' but the roar of the engine.....SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET !!!!!!!!!

Any questions or thoughts? please let me know.
 
#28 ·
I had eliminated my buzz early with foam tape but it is back now at 4000rpms, gonna have to redo when warmer. Silly first day of spring snow here. 3" on the ground:(
 
#30 ·
Did this mod tonight. I cut lengths of a plastic straw as long as the white spacer and folded it in half and slid it inside beside the white spacers. This holds them up tight against the side of the cylinder but still allows them to function. I test rode the bike up and down the street and no buzz. I will test it better this weekend. Here is a pic of the folded straw.
 

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#33 ·
Thumbs up to "mcrider" and "gti20vturbo" with the straw substitution ideas instead of using the shrink tubing.

I had a bit of the vibration return after performing the initial shrink tubing method, so I opened the intrument panel back up.

The drinking straw idea works better, since slitting the straw lengthwise, then folding it, creates more sideways pressure on the internal white "X" buttons, as the straw wants to expand like a spring. This totally prevents the "X" button rattling inside their housings.
 
#36 ·
I had the vibration at 4k and in the same spot that is shown in Element's post. I sacrificed one of my neoprene drum head dampeners that i use on my drum set when I want to keep peace in the house. I cut one up to the proper size and glued them on the right spots and it worked perfectly. The vibration was completely eliminated.
 
#38 ·
Question for those of you who have tried opening up the gauge cluster to perform the "drinking straw fix" and faceplate fix. After putting some good mileage on how have they held up? Has the buzzing come back at all? Would you consider this a permanent fix?

I've had my '09 for 5 weeks now and the buzzing started right at 200 miles when I'd hit 3000-3600 rpm. I fixed it by place foam under the cowl/headlight tab and in the space between (only on the top) the gauge cluster and black cowling.

The buzz went away after that, but only for about 200 miles. Just this last week (around 450 miles) the buzzing came back. Only this time, it wasn't at the 3000-3600 range, but rather between 4000-5000 rpm. It also sounded different. Figuring some of the foam I placed came loose, I opened everything up and replaced all the foam with higher density weather stripping, this time around the entire gauge cluster.

However, after taking a test drive last night, the buzz is still there. I'm now thinking that it's coming from the gauge cluster itself like you guys have pointed out. I'm considering opening up the cluster, but honestly, I don't want to go through all that work and chance damaging my cluster (I'm somewhat of a clutz :eek: ) if the buzz will just come back later on.
 
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