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Spark Plugs!

81K views 240 replies 78 participants last post by  onewizard 
#1 · (Edited)
D.I.Y - Spark Plugs

Well, I noticed a drop in fuel economy on my beloved and I noticed power seemed to be a touch off as well. I looked into the motorcycle owner's manual and found out that the required interval for spark plugs happens to be 7,500 miles. With 6,300 on the clock, I decided to tackle the job on a beautiful, warm Friday afternoon - the temps all week have been at a high of about 37F-44F and a low of 19F-22F, and Friday the temps got into the 60s :D

So, for anyone that might be interested, I decided to to a step-by-step photo journal of the whole process.

First, a few tools:
1. 4mm Allen wrench - this took care of the bolts holding the windshield and the fairing on.
2. 3/8" drive 8mm socket - this was for the acorn nuts that the windscreen bolts screw into (I used a 1/4" drive socket but I should have used a 3/8" drive just to rreduce the amount of tools I had sitting out).
3. 3/8" drive 5mm hex-head socket - this was used to remove the bolts holding the air box on the throttle body.
4. 3/8" drive 10mm socket - this is to remove the bolts holding the fuel tank in place.
5. 4" long 3/8" drive extension - you'll see why in the pictures.
6. 3/8" drive ratchet
7. 3/8" drive torque wrench - one that will accurately read 11 lb-ft to properly torque the spark plugs. Or, do like me, and torque spark plugs to 15 lb-ft, which is as low as a 0-75 lb-ft deflecting beam torque wrench will accurately indicate.

Also, the spark plugs in question are NGK CR9EIA-9 6289 Iridium spark plugs.

Last but not least - gasoline weighs in as much as 6.5 lbs (http://www.santacruzpl.org/readyref/files/g-l/gasoline.shtml), so when you know you're going to be doing the job, make sure you run the bike as close to empty as possible. That said, please don't run so low that you run out of gasoline in the middle of nowhere, as an engine shutdown due to lack of fuel casualty can lead to such things as a temper control meltdown, a lacerated dignity, or even, in more extreme cases, a motorcycle implosion due to kicking, punching, and screaming at the closest inanimate object available.


Now, onto the surgery!

First, I removed the windshield so it would be out of the way. This was done using the 4mm allen wrench and the 8mm socket:


Then, I removed the bolts for the left and right cowling. All bolts are 4mm hex-head bolts, and removed using the 4mm allen wrench:






After I removed the cowling, I noticed that one of the rubber grommets popped off with the cowling, so I reinstalled it on the fuel tank:


I also removed the black plastic covers that sit below the tank and the cowling. There are 3 rubber grommets holding it in place (red) and 1 philips-head screw (green):


For my next trick, I removed the bolts retaining the fuel tank. There are two bolts, and they are 10mm:


Unfortunately, I did not get any pictures of the tank removal itself, however, the process is fairly straightforward.

To remove the tank, I lifted up on the back end of the tank. As I did, it pivoted on a pair of rubber mounts on the front end of the tank, which are located roughly as shown underneath the tank:


After removing the tank, I bungeed the tank to a ladder to keep it supported, up and out of the way, and still leave the lines connected to the tank and the bike:


So, with that out of the way, it was on to the next step.

Again, I didn't think to get pictures for this part. You will see the exposed air box, with a cover panel that is held in place by a rubber hose and 4 philips-head screws. The rubber hose connects to a sensor mounted on the front of the airbox. I removed the hose, unscrewed the screws holding the cover panel in place.

I also removed the air filter, held in place with a single philips-head screw:

 
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#39 ·
If you are talking about the small black flexy tube that hangs in front of the exhaust. It is the breather from the air-filter and there may be a teaspoon full of stuff in there.

Pull the little plug out with a rag or paper towel and let what little there is in there drip on to that. You can also 'milk' it like a cow to encourage the stuff to come out. If you do it every 6 months or so it will be fine.

Machog
 
#40 ·
bargain on NGKs

I found a surprising bargain for anyone else who is a stick in the mud and wants to stay with the stock plugs.

Usually I buy everything online because I assume everything in a brick and mortar is marked up another 30 percent.

I was all set to order some CR9EIA-9s online for 10.50 each plus shipping, then checked down the street at O'Reilly auto parts and they ordered them for me for 8.49, no shipping necessary. They'll be here in 2 days.:yeahsmile:
I checked for the IU27 but no dice.

Feel free to buy yourself a six pack of Coors with the savings and raise a glass to yours truly.
:cheers:
 
#43 ·
Amazing write up. I wish we had one of these for every maintenance/repair! Already printed it out and added to my personal shop manual. It's also interesting to see the effect the IAP has on the bike starting and running, could be really useful to diagnose problems later. Gotta keep that in mind in 5 years. Please feel free to keep writing posts!

Usually I buy everything online because I assume everything in a brick and mortar is marked up another 30 percent.

I was all set to order some CR9EIA-9s online for 10.50 each plus shipping, then checked down the street at O'Reilly auto parts and they ordered them for me for 8.49, no shipping necessary. They'll be here in 2 days.:yeahsmile:
I checked for the IU27 but no dice.
I've been very surprised at the prices of parts/fluids at Schucks (owned by O'reilly's now). They have always ordered me what I needed at often a greater discount than even online stores. I think they really take advantage of economies of scale and order in such mass for huge discounts. The store by my house has even ordered some products they don't usually carry, but are available on their website. And they get it faster than ordering from another online retailer!


:cheers:
 
#44 ·
+1 to sticky this thread. Great right-up Ozyran. I was dreading this but finally went ahead and did it this wknd at about 10,600 odd miles. Your instructions made it easy and the ladder trick spot on. I seem to remember you were going to sell your V, but if you ever check the forum still.....thanks again!
 
#46 ·
ozyran, Thanks for this great write up! I would never have tackled it without your help! I used 2 2" extenders on my wrench. That way I was able to get in there and work. The 4" was not easy to get in there. By using the dropping the plug socket and the first 2" in the socket hole I then attached my second 2" extension.

Also, here are some pics of the airbox removal. Every thing else was so thoroughly documented I thought I would add them:





Here are my plugs at 6300 miles:


Thanks!
 
#47 ·
The tool in the tool kit works great.

You can slid either a ratchet wrench or a short socket and ratchet over the tool from the left side of the bike. There is plenty of room to turn either of these ratchets and its pretty easy to reach both plugs from that position.
 
#51 ·
oxyran,
I wanted to thank you, along with all the others, for your excellent post! I took your advice, and followed the photos/instructions, even using the ladder/bungie cord technique, and it worked great''! However, I originally planned to only replace the air filter. But, after I got everything tore apart I thought it would be very prudent to go ahead and change the plugs (even if I didn't need to). So I drove to town (in my truck) and bought some, and installed as per your directions. I have 9k miles on mine.

Perfect!!: :clap: And I did have a beer after the project!:cheers:
 
#57 ·
Don't bother changing your plugs. I changed mine at 20k miles, total waste of time, they were perfect. And unless you are doing your airfilter they are a real challenge to get at.



Won't bother changing them again until at least 60kmiles or more.

Machog
 
#58 ·
Anti-seize compound is SOP on aircraft spark plugs, and I use it on any plug that screws in to aluminum. The compound is sold by Champion, and is a liquid in a brush top bottle. It's not grease based. I suspect it's graphite based, and it dries quickly. One warning: All anti-seize compounds are electrically conductive and must be kept away from the electrodes and insulator surfaces of the plug.
 
#59 ·
Wow, well, I was going to clean out the spark plug photos but then came back here, and found this is a sticky! Woo hoo!

Don't worry about the photos, they are staying put!

I am honored that this has helped so many and I'm glad I could do so. I'm actually "puttering" around on a Z-Rex now (LOVE the beast - but can one actually putter on an 11-second bike?) but I do miss my Versys. Such a simple bike compared to the Z-Rex, I may end up with another V just for puttering around on. Glad I could be of some help, and thanks for the tip, ttpete. I'll have to go get some of that copper-based liquid antiseize as it sounds like better stuff than the Loctite I use now.

Again, thanks for the honored 'Sticky' status, I'm glad my little contribution could help so many :cool:
 
#61 ·
Clarification Needed

Old 06-24-2009, 08:04 AM
mudarra mudarra
"The tool in the tool kit works great.

You can slid either a ratchet wrench or a short socket and ratchet over the tool from the left side of the bike. There is plenty of room to turn either of these ratchets and its pretty easy to reach both plugs from that position."

Is this a Ladder Free operation? No Tank/Airbox Removal required?

Rob
 
#62 ·
I don't think you could even remove the spark plug coil without taking the airbox off.
I just changed my plugs at 16,500 miles (first change, mileage was getting crappy) and it was about an hour and a half ordeal. Nothing really difficult, just a bit fiddly and you have to really strip the bike down.

The tool kit tool is the best way to get the spark plugs out, though.
 
#64 ·
I did this last week.

The one thing I have problem is the fuel line... The red plastic locking thingy is really hard to take off... What is the proper way to take that off... I was struggling with that for the longest time... :mad:
 
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