A bit of advice; you will have difficulty in removing the side cover as the permanent magnet is pulling the stator lamination's inward, have a couple wooden wedges , Popsicle sticks, something to put in place in several locations that you don't get your finger pinched, in helping with 3 stator failures, never ever replaced the gasket, just use a silicone sealant around the rubber with the 3 phase wires. What I am saying is if you use a couple screw drivers and pry without caution chances are really good at damaging the gasket, I still have one hanging in my garage
Before you install the stator , measure the depth / thickness of the OEM stator and the replacement. FYI stators from places like RM Stator are thinner, be aware the mounting holes are blind holes, I found the depth of thread was insufficient with the RM stator, we used a 3/16 ID X 1/8 thick washer on all mounting screws. The mounting bracket for holding the 3 phase wire back is fastened into the aluminum and another member on here stripped that thread, aluminum it is easily done, this single mounting is critical to prevent the wire contacting the rotor. I recommend using brake cleaner on the mounting screw and blind hole thread, then use 242 loctite, when tightening just snug it up, be aware using any lube which is what the 242 is until it cures, is what I explain when using a torque wrench, dry torque and wet torque, wet torque should be roughly 65% that of dry torque, in other words when I say snug, just that, once that loctite cures, the only way out will be using heat first.
Going back in, the same way, use wooden wedges or some other means to protect you fingers, also get the mounting bolts all started, ensuring everything is lined up once the wedges are pulled.
Please take a close up of both sides of the new stator and a close up of the 3 phase connection area. I would also ask that you look closely on the back side of the stator, last time I was involved they were delta wound.
Y Delta 101
A Y connected stator will have less copper, a greater space between copper poles, and somewhere you will see 3 magnet wires joined in between poles. Also on Y connected staor there will be a single 18 gauge wire per phase. Electrically from my perspective if I was to hand wind a stator, it would be Y connected, less turns but a larger wire. Those China stators cheat, to convert to Y like I said, less turns but to be exactly equal to the delta, it should be a 15 gauge wire. Delta wound is designed for high current , Y connected is for higher voltage. So delta phase voltage and line voltage are the same, line current is 1.73 times that of phase current. Y connected the line voltage is 1.73 times that of the phase voltage, the line current and phase current are one and the same. The advantage of a Y connected is we have less turns, so less chance of a turn to turn short, the voltage per turn is less so less chance of voltage breakdown, a shorted turn will not be affected by the other phases. To explain about a shorted turn in a Delta wound stator, with shorted turns,say the third pole of A phase has shorted turns , phase B to C will actually cause current flow within that shorted turn as will C to A. The shorted turn itself will also cause distortion and shorting out of the magnetic field, this will reduce output. It gets even more complicated but that is all for tonight.