Kawasaki Versys Forum banner

Normal Idle?

12K views 23 replies 13 participants last post by  onewizard 
#1 ·
Hi.

Just need some thoughts on my versy. When the engine is cold and i first start it, the rpm's like to jump to 3k. It does settle down back to 1k idle after a couple minutes of warming up. Normal?.


thanks.
 
#3 ·
yea, if it settles to around 1k rpm it's probably fine.

I remember in the colder winter months my start up would do something similar... in the warmer weather it doesn't seem to do it though.

How cold has it been?
 
#5 ·
Your idle need to be set to 1300 rpm's when warmed up...
 
#9 ·
convenient posting. mine would idled down to 500 and then stalled while on going-to-the-sun highway. i reached down and turned it up, problem solved, but wasn't sure about the proper setting now that i'm back home. i had it at ~900. thanks!
 
  • Like
Reactions: weljo2001
#7 · (Edited)
You can bring it down by rotating your sub-throttle sensor counterclockwise a bit... I had to after rotating my main throttle sensor counterclockwise by about 0.5mm to add low end fuel and cure lean stumble. My sub-throttle plates were already removed, by the way.

Set you normal warmed up idle to 1300 rpm, as it should.
 
#11 ·
My '15 650 just started doing the high idle thing in the past week when it has gotten colder. Only the first start when it is cold soaked to 45 or colder. After about 30 seconds of normal idle it then zooms up to 3000 to 4000 rpm. If I hit the kill switch and restart it, the rpms are normal.

Twice the idle has been normal until kicking it into 1st gear, then the rpms rise.

Once warmed up the engine runs, idles, and starts completely normally.



Which is the sub-throttle sensor?
 
#13 ·
With all of my electrical doo-dads, I like 1.5K rpm as the warmed up idle. And that's idle based based on empirical evidence and constant monitoring from a real time voltage light (as per my equipment load and battery life.) Voltage light feedback and radiator temp gages rule!

I feel sorry for you guys up North with all the heating equipment. I don't know how I could do without all my monitoring/comfort equipment I have now. You guys especially need One Wizard's exclusive voltage light!
 
#15 · (Edited)
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...1-versys-kle650-2010-2011-service-manual.html

They are on the left side. They may be partly hidden if yours has the evaporative system charcoal canister over it... Here's aka Yamadog's photo, with a T25 Torx tool on the Main Throttle Sensor screw. Start by rotating your Main Throttle Sensor (lower) counterclockwise by a very small amount (about 0.5mm). Before loosening Torx screw, look at how the sensor's green reference mark ligns up on the front, with your head against your front left turn signal... Then we'll consider rotating your subthrottle sensor (just above) counterclockwise as well if your cold fast idle is still too high.

 
#19 ·
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...1-versys-kle650-2010-2011-service-manual.html

They are on the left side. They may be partly hidden if yours has the evaporative system charcoal canister over it... Here's aka Yamadog's photo, with a T25 Torx tool on the Main Throttle Sensor screw. Start by rotating your Main Throttle Sensor (lower) counterclockwise by a very small amount (about 0.5mm). Before loosening Torx screw, look at how the sensor's green reference mark ligns up on the front, with your head against your front left turn signal... Then we'll consider rotating your subthrottle sensor (just above) counterclockwise as well if your cold fast idle is still too high
I adjusted it a bit and the stumble is almost gone. The exhaust note is a bit throatier sounding. Today at least it didn't rev way high at startup, though the temperature was around 50F.
 
#18 ·
Mine did too when i got it from the dealership. But kept having to charge the battery all the time and then found out the idle was too low about 900 rpm. Bumped it up to 1300 and never had another issue.
 
#21 ·
Other than judging the lean stumble is there any worry about going too rich?

Also, on my bike the paint dot is on the body of the sensor and on the screw. Thus it is a bit of a guess how much the sensor has been moved. They didn't really design it for adjustment via visual cues.
 
#22 ·
No... It will always have a lean low end and a progressivelly rich top end, unless you correct it with added fuel management system such as Power Commander.

You could always measure the voltage output at its connector like I did... Visually is the easy way.
 
#23 ·
As I read the service manual for more inputs:


I found this post with a few images: http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/9-technical-discussion/19534-airbox-backfire.html

So I went down to give it a shot. I turned the sensor down/counter clockwise by a hair (to the left if facing the bike). Started her up. On cold start, the RPM went a bit crazy and shot up to 3k RPM and then settled back down. But something was amiss. I held the clutch and tried to get the bike to move and she just shut down. I think the fuelling was made even leaner?

So I went back down and turned the sensor the other way - up towards the fuel tank (to the right). Then I readjusted the idle to about 1400 rpm (up from 1300). Went up and down by street a few times, and seems like the problem's gone.

Either I'm daft, or Kawasaki has changed things on the 2015 model. I would like to believe I am daft.

However, when I release the clutch to get the bike going, the RPM goes below 1000 and the bike doesn't really move unless I give her a bit of gas. Is this normal?

Going to get out in the morning and start her up to see what next. Might just avoid the trip to the dealership.
I have played with my ( main throttle sensor)TPS, 2015, changing the setting above or below factory has zero results in performance,due to the closed loop oxygen sensor, feedback from crankcase pos. sensor, speed sensor and ECU mapping, however it does affect fuel mileage.

So here are my settings, July 2016
I have the 57001-1538 adapter I have given numbers / referenced to colour codes of the manual pages 3-43 to 3-45 Fuel System.
#1-Brown Black
#2-Blue
#3-Yellow Red

Input 4.76 VDC using a fluke 189
WOT 4.04 VDC
Idle 1.031 VDC
Input VDC 5.018 VDC sensor measured 4.830 K ohms

Main throttle Sensor, 1 and 2= 4.898 K ohms
Input 5.018 VDC
Output 1 and 3 Idle 1.026 VDC warmed up and running, 4.238 VDC W.O.T motor off

Output 1&3 at temp but not running 1.0248 VDC


My new setting,August 2016, key only ( not running ) #1 & #3, 1.041VDC , W.O.T. 4.25 VDC I found my fuel mileage dropped

September 2016 changed to #1 & #3 to 0.99 VDC and left it there for the rest of the season.
 
#24 · (Edited)
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top