RESOLVING THE LEAKAGE ON EITHER SERIES REGULATOR HAS BEEN RESOLVED****GO TO POLARIS REGULATOR INSTALL by me
onewizard, Thanks for all the technical advice and the guide for swapping out the R/R.
Got a question for you regarding the Compu-fire 55402 R/R: Can you tap into 1 phase coming off the stator to close the relay for the headlight rather than using the brake lights? Would I need to put a diode in-line with the tap from the phase to the headlight relay?
First I have a question for you, why Compu-fire. It is twice as expensive and far more difficult to install, it will not directly mount like the polaris, the direction of the cooling fins is at 90' to that of original and the connection comes out in the wrong place and you are going to need to install butt splices or some other joining means. To remove it, you will again need to cut the wiring connections , or install a waterproof terminal strip. Yup that's what I have, if I replaced my 07 with a 2015 Versys, I would ask the dealer to ship it without a regulator or credit me the cost, I would then install a Polaris, it would take me less than 90 minutes to both install and modify everything.
So to your question, you have five choices;
#1 Add a relay and switch your ground wire.
#2 Add a relay and use the brown wire to switch the positive wire.
#3 Butt splice everything and isolate the brown wire, every day you come home, hook up a battery tender, your light will come on every time without doing anything, the problem is, when
you turn off your bike, the headlight relay is still trying to turn on your headlight, approximately 38 milliamp, 24/7. The reason is the positive terminal on the original regulator is live all the time, the original regulator only comes into play when you exceed 14.2 to 14.5 VDC, it will produce output current with the brown wire disconnected, and when your headlight burns out, that is because the regulator either didn't have power on the brown wire or your key switch wasn't providing it.
I was lucky, I brought my negative wire all the way up to my frame ground, bike sat for two weeks, went to go for a ride,
dead battery
Not impressed, discovered what I have posted in post 387, only this year did I get rid of the relays. Somewhere I had a picture of how I adapted the Compu-fire to the original mounting, using the back mounting bolt, then using a longer bolt on the front and a fender washer from below, compared to the Polaris it is one PITA to install, would I do it again,
NO, even if the Polaris was the same price--
NO.
#4 butt splice all the wires or find a waterproof terminal strip, or marette all the connections, taping the brown wire, then cut the black wire ,pin #2 of the headlight relay, adding a trigger of your choice, I chose the brake light as it is the only thing besides the signal lights that isn't on when starting, the brake light because I always use my brakes, therefore my headlight is assured to be on when riding ( it only comes into play for about 3 milliseconds at 38 milliamp, afdter that the headlight circuit is latched in using your battery positive, only way to turn it off is with the key switch or hitting the start button.
#5 Install a 4012941 Polaris and follow my instructions, direct footprint, superior 1/4 inch male spade terminals , almost 3 times the surface area per terminal to that of original , rated at 35 amp, 10 more than our stator will output, looks identical to the Kawasaki regulator.
And almost 1/2 the cost .
Apparently there is a problem with regulation above 12000 RPM according to postings on Triumph Forum. Our bike red lines at 10500 RPM, that is 525 Hertz, I have no idea how many poles are in the Triumph, ours has six poles X 3 phase, so you will count 18 poles when looking at a stator, I stopped testing at 9000 RPM, because I never ride for any distance with a constant 9000 or above sustained RPM. I hit 9500 RPM at least once every second ride, I am over 65 , but still have the little kid in me. :clap: