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Buzz Resolved/ Cowling /(Unexpected Culprit)

78K views 149 replies 90 participants last post by  BaileyMan 
#1 · (Edited)
I own a relatively new '09 model with only 1400 miles on it, and the dreaded harmonic buzz emanating from the cowling area at around 4500rpm has been active on this bike for about half its life.

This kind of thing DRIVES ME CRAZY!

I have owned previous bikes with harmonic buzzing, and I've always been able to find and fix the source.

I almost gave up on finding the buzz on this Versys, but after a lot of effort I was successful.

The search process started as usual, trying to physically touch and thus quiet the offending piece while riding. Next, I tried revving the bike while parked to try and identify the buzz.

I could not find the buzz. Frustrating...

Next, I tried to be unorthodox, and applied Dynamat to the upper-inside of the gauge cowling, as well as the insides of the side-front cowlings. I went out and test rode the bike. Result, I wasted $20 on Dynamat.





So, the cowlings came off again. I started rapping lightly on the metal cowling/gauge frame with a rubber mallet. I could hear the instrument gauge unit buzzing lightly each time I did this. However, touching the gauges while rapping did not reduce the buzz.

This is an "AH-HA! I GOT YOU NOW, YOU LITTLE BASTARD!!" moment.

The buzz is coming from INSIDE the instrument gauge unit.

So, I removed the headlight to access removal of the gauge housing.





Then I removed the 9 screws on the back side of the gauge housing. Don't be afraid to do this. It is very easy and nothing falls apart or is difficult to put back together. No seals are broken either, so no worries.



I found 2 possible buzz sources inside the housing.

The first source is less likely, but I fixed it anyway; the white face of the gauges "floats" on top of the inner gauge body without really being very secure, even when it is sandwiched between the top and bottom of the gauge cases, so it still has a slight gap around most of its outer edge. I fixed this potential buzz source by minimally tack welding the white gauge-face edges to the inner gauge body using superglue. Easy, and I can easily use a razor to break the bond if I need to replace bulbs later.



The second possible buzz source was definitely causing most, if not all of the gauge buzzing. Looking at the picture below, you will see the two housings for the "Mode" and "Reset" micro-switches. The little "X"-looking pieces inside the round tube of the switch housing have too much free-play inside the round tubes. When the bike engine revs, the "X" pieces rattle against the inside of the round switch tubes.



So, I found the main buzz problem, but how did I fix it without affecting the performance of the two switches? That is the question.

The answer; with 2 small pieces of 1/4" heat-shrink tubing, slid between the "X" portion of the switch and the inner wall of the round switch housing. Looking at the picture below, you will see the top switch has the shrink tubing already installed, and the lower switch still needs to have the shrink tubing slid down into place. The shrink tubing must be cut short enough to allow the switches to function. If the shrink tubing is too tall it will limit switch function. Once the tubing was in place I heated it a little to keep it there. There is still enough play in the switch, but the "X" no longer rattles in the round switch housing.



So, I put the gauge unit back together, and tested the "Mode" and "Reset" switches before I installed the gauge unit. I reassembled everything else to the bike. A test ride revealed that I had indeed fixed the problem. No more buzzing, just the ability to enjoy the sound of the engine. :cheers:

If you want to test this potential buzzing source on your bike, try holding these switches down simultaneously while riding and hearing the buzz. If the noise stops, you know how to fix it.
 
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#135 ·
Cluster buzzing still!

OK, I have done this repair with the shrink tubing on the buttons....There is still a rattle when I shake the cluster. I can not get the cluster separated from the printed circuit board because of the header that is soldered in place. Does anybody know how to separate the the two peices without damaging anything? I know the rattle is the source of my buzz! UGH, driving me nuts!
 
#138 ·
I had the speedo buzz originally, so I stuffed furniture legs pads (self adhesive) cut in half in the space between it and the housing. Now I've got the entire cowling buzz. Woohoo! :yeahsmile: Nice to join the group of frustrated lovers of this crazy bike. I'm putting HEL brake lines on instead of fixing it, for now. Mess with me will ya. HA!
 
#139 ·
When I last serviced my Mk1, I snapped the mounting tab where the speedo surround bolts to the tank. (You can see it in real time in this and the subsequent videos: )

I just left it, intending to fix another day. But it made a hell of a racket. A SUPERbuzz!

So today, after 3 months of bearing it I stuck a piece (well, 2 pieces if you want to be pedantic) of 3M Dual lock (Velcro on the best steroids) at the end of the speedo surround where it contacts the main panel.

So now I can still detach one from the other but also, the buzz is entirely gone! It's now better than it was before! It's so good in fact, that I'm considering breaking the other end on purpose and fixing it the same way!

As some have said, I think that if you combine panels in this way, it changes their collective resonance frequency. Or something...
 
#142 ·
My 2011 has "the buzz", too. However, it's not the internals of the gage cluster that's causing it. The gage cluster itself is riding too high and vibrating against the top of the hole it sits in. It I force it down some, the buzzing goes away. I need to find a piece of foam or rubber strip to wedge in there.
 
#143 ·
I want to give a big thanks to E-nigma!

I suspected too that the noise came from the inside panel, and when i saw this thread i took the confidence to do it. I glued the metal sheet where the numbers of revolutions are printed to the circuit, and i put some rubber from one cable inside the buttons, all moving parts now are fixed.

I have a versys version 2014, and now is like a new ****ing bike quiet and smooth, omg big thanks to you! Now i can live in peace :crying:
 
#144 ·
I completed Enigma's fix that starts this old thread to the push-in toggles in the instrument cluster, and have now rode for a couple of days WITHOUT my old friend buzz. What a pleasure. I just posted about this in the General Discussion section. Besides the small pieces of cut straw inserted into the push-in toggle areas where the little "x" shaped plastic pieces are seated, I also put a small amount of super glue under some areas of the white plate that houses the tach and the digital speedo plate.
 
#146 ·
I had the buzz at 4000RPM for a over year on a 2009. Took all the plastic off multiple times.

It turned out to be the rear bolt that connects the H-B engine bars to the frame was missing. The bar was tight to the spacer so I never noticed the bolt was missing.
 

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#148 ·
#150 ·
I know there are probably tons of threads on this topic. There were several years ago when I was much more active on this forum...

Lots of us have tried lots of different things to address the rattle/buzz that comes from around the instrument panel / front body panels, etc.

I apologize that I don't have pics. I didn't realize the fix until everything was back together...

I noticed that where the headlight adjustment screws attach to the headlight reflector, the little plastic clippy thingys that snap in there were not staying in their proper place, resulting in a headlight assembly that was kind of flopping around inside. I couldn't adjust my headlight vertically or horizontally, so I took a little 5-minute epoxy and epoxied those little buggers back in. I fixed the headlight adjustment problem, and to my surprise, the rattle/buzz is gone! My 2011 Versys that I bought new in 2012, after almost 7 years, no longer buzzes or rattles!
 
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