Polaris Regulator Install 2017 Revised / Brake Trigger
Highlighted area is the simple solution to the headlight relay parasitic drain. Revised 2018
A option that some are going with,
Triumph Harness, which involves getting 10 gauge butt splices and 14 gauge, what you require is dependent on the wire gauge of this harness. Triumph Harness advantage, is extra wire length , allowing cutting the original harness connector of Kawasaki leaving 1.5 to 2 inches of wire on the removed connector to allow restoration back to OEM when selling the bike.
Triumph harness, T2500676 Triumph Link Lead, Regulator $9.08 - 2WheelPros
Parts required if you plan on going with the OEM wiring and no after market harness; you need two insulated 10 gauge female spade stakon crimps and three 14 gauge female spade insulated crimps , some silicone, 3 feet of 16 or 18 gauge wire, solder or two positaps, crimping pliers,wire cutters and strippers, electrical tape, plastic sandwich bag if you are
not using the Triumph harness.
Using the
Triumph Harness: Keep in mind, with the harness you have a additional 5 connections, you will need to cut the connectors off the end that would go to the stator, and butt splice or solder these 5 connections.The two insulated 10 gauge female spade stakon crimps and three 14 gauge female spade insulated crimps,
are not required when using this harness Several people have stated they found it easier to use the Triumph harness.
Before you start, two options, if you plan on installing a diode, remove the main 30 amp fuse, if you
don't intend to install a diode, remove the positive battery terminal , instead of the main fuse.
Wiring of Polaris colour code, looking at inside male spade terminals, grey socket on left, black output socket on right. Left grey socket is 3 phase input in any order, that is the 3 black wires . Black output socket is left terminal Positive output, OEM Kawasaki Positive wire is white with a blue tracer. Black output socket right terminal is negative output, Kawi colour is black with a yellow tracer, photo #15. FYI if you make a mistake on the output wires, that is put positive where negative should be **good news, you get nothing outputted , also if you connect all 3 phase, start the bike and don't have both positive and negative connected and also to a battery with a minimum 8 volts, again you will get no output.
Using 1/4 inch female spade stakons direct to the Polaris, expect to need to open the very start of the spade connector, as the Polaris male spade connectors are oversize in thickness, using electrical grease sparingly is also a good idea in either case of install.
Using the Triumph harness you can ignore the following sentence.
I used a wrap of electrical tape around each spade connector, this allowed me to pump in silicone into the cavity and in previous posts on page one I explain in Smileys post reverse taping and the purpose of the sandwich bag.
The following involves removing the gas tank;you see the rubber mounts for the gas tank photo #13( FYI the gas tank slides back then lift up ,after you disconnect the fuel line and fuel pump wiring socket, some have tried lifting up).You will see the relay box very close to the fuel line, the center relay is the headlight relay, see photo #11, pay close attention to the
fuel line red clip notice at the very top, a raised square part, this is to get a small slot screw drive in to release the clip, notice the red portion is above the black portion and this is the released position. To work this off the bundy tube of the gas tank requires some twisting and combined pulling, exercising caution on pre 2015 as the tube was nylon and part of the fuel pump . I use a very small finger tip of Vaseline on the bundy tube before reinstalling.
Discharge Diode NOT USED 2018 Revision
So much discussion in previous posts about the diode, if you are not planning on using a diode, see wiring diagram Page 16-80 of the service manual ( 2015).
You need to cut the black wire pin#2 of the center headlight relay, like in my following post. This time, you are going to add a jumper from the cut wire pin#2 of the headlight relay socket to pin #3 of the same socket, which is a gray wire, you still need to isolate the black wire you cut photo #11 with the yellow tape on it.
The instant the key switch is turned on, so will the headlight--no worries, the instant and for the duration of cranking the bike, the headlight relay is forced off, after release of the start button, bingo on comes the headlight.
Turn your key to off and the light goes off, I can't make it simpler than that.
Install With a Diode:
It is the pin #2 , black wire, on the headlight / ECU relay, center 6 pin socket, center bottom pin, cut wire about 1.5 inches from plug, see photo #10, I have a screw driver behind the pin #2 black wire,this black wire 1.5 inch wire to the plug, gets spliced either solder or tap connector to your brake wire, see photo #11 ( approximately 3 feet long, I used
purple wire ) and attach to brake light BLUE with RED TRACER wire, this is your trigger wire that takes the place of the stator output. THE BLACK WIRE ,the other end of what you cut at the headlight relay connector also photo #11 , has yellow tape on it photo #11 ( at the relay box), runs to the stator and needs a bit of tape on it, I use yellow tape as it stands out, something like
be aware, any electrical tape will work.
If you follow the wire harness from the right hand front brake/start switch, you will come to a connector, see photo 13 & 14, this is my 2015, however the 07 is the same,you will see the purple wire from the pin #2 headlight relay socket,tapped onto the brake wire, photo #13 , blue with red tracer.
Photos #4 & #6 are a optional connection to the rear brake light switch wire and show another form of tap/splice connector, done on a 07 , much more difficult to work on, especially on 2015. My preferred trigger connection is as previously described, using the front brake connection, same color code.
See photo # 5 and you can also go to post
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1106874-post28.html to see the diode on my 2015, as the connector has cheapened up on the 2015, I also have additional photos of the relay box there.
I used a 1N4007 because it was $0.10 and had lots of them, 1 amp at any voltage 100 volts or better, note the direction/ polarity of the band of the diode, band end is on the yellow with red tracer side.The purpose of the diode is to prevent random turning on of the headlight, without the diode, 3 out of 5 starts your headlight will come on without triggering the headlight relay from the brake switch.
I explained in
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1073673-post11.html #8 of that post. If you look at photo #9, it is 1 step before the final step, which involves taking electrical tape and giving a wrap covering the diode, also note this is taped tight against the harness, as some comment from others of not being able to put the cover back on over the main fuse.Also the ring stakons were just shoved in behind the pins of the connector, notice photo #8, the stakon barrel is facing you with the polarity band on the left, the reason for this is to allow bending the diode back tight towards the harness, then wrapping with tape, tight against the harness.
Listing of pictures for those that like
looking rather than
reading, in order of posting, top left would be #1, second row from left would be #6
#1 & #2 compliments of Eddie, relay box showing headlight relay socket disconnected.
#3 is the OEM regulator and connector
#4 & #6 is one option of splicing the trigger wire ( purple )for the headlight relay connected to the rear brake light in these photos, brake wire is blue with red tracer
#10,11,12 are my 2015 headlight relay plug, exactly the same as MK-1 & MK-2
#11 shows the pin#2 being cut and soldered to the purple trigger wire from the brake circuit, in this case I use the brake circuit from the front brake
#12 shows the wire taped at the headlight relay plug
#13 shows the purple trigger wire soldered to the blue with red tracer brake wire, this is the 5 wire harness from the brake/start/kill switch, as in #14
#14 is a 5 wire harness from the brake/start/kill switch, before it was apart , note the rubber mounts for the gas tank, this is 2015, trace from Handlebar if unsure
#15 is a shot of the polaris regulator, note ( gray socket) 3phase stator wire, (black socket) black yellow negative and white blue positive
#16 is a close up of the diode for those bold enough to attempt this mod, once done put several wraps of electrical tape around the diode and wire harness, harness holds things in place