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Former Polaris Regulator Install / Old / 2014 / EDITING 2023

18K views 174 replies 17 participants last post by  nikosb 
#1 ·
My Stator has failed for the second time. The factory unit at 44,000, and now today it's aftermarket replacement at 75,500. What has been the conclusion as to upgrading to the Compufire series R/R. My orig R/R has no signs of heat at any of the connections and when I do the impedance test per the manual I get resistance on way and none the other This tells me it's prolly rectifying from AC to DC, but it does not tell me if it's regulating at a predetermined point, and shunting to ground. Although before the new stator went up in smoke my voltmeter was peaking around 14-1/2 DC.

I'm looking for someone to confirm that the Compufire series RR is a good decision.
 
#2 ·
#3 ·
Polaris Regulator Install / Old / 2014 / Discussion

Note This was copied from my post in Burnt Stators, a relay is no longer required as of 2015

There presently isn't anything on the market specific to the Versys that is series regulated, rather than shunt. There presently are three, CompuFire, Polaris 4012941 and RM Stator RM 30506H ( look up 2008 ZX-14, click on OEM number and 4012941 ( SH 775), plus a host of other numbers comes up) it is listed as Mosfet Voltage Regulator Rectifier.

As to any of these, the best way would be to add a minimum 30 amp rated relay, in Canada I went to Princess auto, picked up two relays and two harnesses, for a total of $20,the relays dovetail together, paralleled everything and used the tail light for control. My install was for a CompuFire, and I retrofitted the relay after finding the drain problem. What I would suggest is to bring the positive wire up to the relay, from the relay you should install a 30 amp fuse, then from the fuse to the battery. BE AWARE THE OEM PLUG AT THE REGULATOR POSITIVE GOES DIRECTLY TO A 30 AMP MAIN FUSE, WHICH IS LIVE ALL THE TIME ---unless:censored::eek::confused: your battery us dead--then no worries-- ( I had to use the negative ground, as everything was buried in the OEM harness )

As to connecting a used or new Polaris , I personally would make up three 14 gauge TEW or other fine strand wire jumpers with 10 gauge spade female stakons on both ends, about possibly 18 inches long, go from bottom of OEM plug which is the 3 phase to new regulator 3 phase input. For the negative use 10 gauge and 10 gauge female spade, run to frame ground by ECU. For positive use 10 gauge and same set up and run to relay as described before.

Several ways to make all joints waterproof if you don't want to source the wiring and plug kit such as what Roadster Cycle has available.

I have several simple ways to waterproof everything once testing is completed, I will explain the cheapest and simpleist. Also it can be easily reversed back to OEM regulator.

take a small zip lock or sandwich bag, punch a hole in the bottom, one bag hole first over the regulator socket the second hole first over the OEM plug, make all your wire connections, ( you can purchase some loom to go over the wire or just electrical tape for abrasion resistance,
your call) take a roll of electrical tape and tape backwards, that is sticky side out, do about three layers over the connections, last wrap change to sticky side in. Take some clear or white sillicone and pump a amount sufficient to cover the connection on both sides, the bag is to allow you to form a smooth covering without getting all ,over your hands, you could also use plastic wrap.

So it comes time you want to switch back, take a utillity knife cut through the sillicone and tape on one side, the whole assembly will come off as 1 mold, since the tape was sticky side out, nothing is stuck to the tape.I have used this method in some extremely harsh conditions, years later I have removed these joints, surprisingly, over time from heating and cooling, expansion etc. , you can read all the markings from the connectors inside the tape, as a example the word Burndy #26 ( for the electricians on this forum)

Info I recieved from LowFlyer would indicate the SH775 will work on the Versys,it has a identical footprint, one thing to be aware is the output could be anywhere between 13.9 and 14.2 depending on the day it was made in China

CompuFire is a solid 14.2 and has a higher current rating,except at idle when the stator can't keep up. It doesn't match the OEM footprint and my cooling finns actually are at right angles to the airflow .

That is it for now, :feedback:
 
#4 ·
Polaris Regulator Install

Here are the photos of onewizard attaching the wiring from the RM stator to a Polaris R/R. The wiring loom is oem, the female stakons are 10 gauge. The whole set up is designed to be removable while being absolutely waterproof.

Notes on photos. The first photo shows the stakons and the brown wire with the reverse tape procedure to ensure remove ability. Check out post #291 for explanation.

In the second photo note the brown wire (end is taped) tucked back into the original loom. It is the only unused wire.

The next two photos show the application of clear silicone, followed by (reverse) wrap of tape to hold all in place until cured and also provide additional insulation and protection of the wires.

The second last photo shows the completed unit, while the last photo shows a thin application of heat sink compound to the base of the R/R. This fills in any voids in the metal of the mounting plate and aids heat transfer.

The Polaris R/R mounts exactly like the oem using the same bolts as stock. Very nice. No relays were used, I will leave it to onewizard to explain why.

Thank you once again Glen, you are a wizard indeed!
 
#6 ·
I did some tests and here are the results, meter on left reads volts DC at the battery
photos, missing will come later
 
#5 ·

Note: Wiring of Polaris colour code, looking at inside male spade terminals, grey socket on left, black output socket on right. Left grey socket is 3 phase input in any order. Black output socket is left terminal Positive output, OEM Kawasaki Positive wire is white with a blue tracer. Black output socket right terminal is negative output, Kawi colour is black with a yellow tracer. FYI if you make a mistake on the output wires, that is put positive where negative should be **good news, you get nothing outputted , also if you connect all 3 phase, start the bike and don't have both positive and negative connected and also to a battery with a minimum 8 volts, again you will get no output. The reason is the regulator part of the circuit uses the battery minimum voltage of 8 volts to trigger the SCR's, if you have less tha 8 volts it is assumed the battery has failed, and if the regulator came online, severe damage could occur to both the stator and regulator.




I did some tests and here are the results, meter on left reads volts DC at the battery ( Fluke 87 V ), two meters to right ( Fluke 189 ) are reading two of the 3 phases at the plug from the stator. Idle RPM is 1400 RPM. One shows under load with 65 watt headlight at idle, second shows with the fan on at idle. Third picture shows 14.3 VDC at 2000 RPM with 21 VAC .I did a third test , at 3500 RPM I had 34 VAC under same load conditions.This is were the series regulator shines, OEM will never go over 15 volts as it is shunting excess power to ground. FYI all tests shown are with a warmed up engine, fan is cycling on and off, absolutely no air movement over the regulator and outside temperature in the 24'C range .
I hope this helps. I am still working on a solution to the relay / drain problem, need to burn up some gas to lighten the tank.
For those that don't know, the bright green led on left is my Heads Up voltage monitor, best $30 I ever spent, EXTREMELY accurate, 0.1VDC accurate Voltage Table:
• Flashing Green Above - 15.2V
• Steady Green 12.9V - 15.1V
• Steady Amber 12.7V - 12.8V
• Steady Red 12.1V - 12.6V
• Flashing Red Below - 12V


Pictures of Polaris regulator and explanation. JPG 4, is old regulator to show how much wire was left in case we wanted to splice back in. #5 is the 5 of 6 wires with crimps on, note the yellow are 10 gauge female spade connectors ( white with blue tracer is positive that goes to main fuse) ( black with yellow tracer is ground going to frame ground) and the blue crimps are the 3 phase wires from the stator with 14 gauge insulated female spade connectors.


To complete the wiring for triggering the headlight relay[

#7 you need to look real close to the yellow crimps, you will notice black tape, if you don't have fully insulated female spade, you can throw a wrap of tape on, which keeps the silicone out in step #8
#8, applying silicone, the reason for insulated female spade stakons was to cover the exposed male spade inside the regulator so no silicone got on each connector ( female spade have part of one side exposed).

#10 is reverse taping, start at the housing with electrical tape. after two wraps on the aluminum ( avoiding contact with wire), flip roll over so sticky side is facing out, continue to tape this way, overlapping each wrap until you have covered to the original harness, now flip the tape again so sticky side is in, wrap back towards the regulator, until all the exposed sticky side out tape is covered.---------Why do this? If you ever wanted to remove this regulator, a utility knife with a very light score along the outside and the whole thing will come off in one piece, nothing stuck to anything, except when you started.

#11 I applied Wakefield heat sink compound, sort of overkill
 
#8 ·
Photos to come
 
#7 ·
The wire I used was blue with a red tracer, about six inches from the tail light.This is the brake light.

It isn't 100% for me, as on initial start the headlight comes on automatically once the engine starts, if I key off and back on within 30 seconds, then the headlight remains off until I touch the brakes---******************* I have a homemade electronic flasher and also a Addmore light kit for my Givi cases, so there is considerable feedback in this circuit. I don't really care as once the headlight is on it latches on through the headlight relay, main thing is I am now using a compufire regulator with no added relays and no battery drain. Quite the feeling removing my double relays and wire harness, no longer need a jumper in case the relays failed ( had added spade quick connects and made a jumper with male stakons), so I could pull the connections off the relay and jumper them out, in case of relay failure.

For those that don't care about what turns on your headlight and when it turns on, and you are just starting to do the install, you could use the brown wire from the regulator that isn't used for Polaris or Compufire, and connect that to the black trigger wire #2 pin of the headlight relay ( which needs to be cut as described previously by me). This way, as soon as you key on, your headlight is on, your call, key off and no more drain to the headlight relay, because the brown wire was keyed positive power to drive the electronics of the Versys regulator.

Some on this forum will laugh at what I am about to say, when I had my multiple meters hooked up. and idle was fixed using my idle screw, the first time I thought I was hearing things.I heard idle speed change, that is I heard what sounded like the motor slow down a bit then speed up. I then noticed the speeding up matched the 17 to 21 volts AC on my meters, I also noticed the slowing down directly related to my meters dropping to 13.5 to 15 VAC. ) what was happening was my fan came on, alternator demand increased, when the fan cycled off, alternator demand droped and idle speed increased. ( remember I am using the idle screw , which is a fixed opening, supplying a fixed amount of energy). For those with a Versys OEM regulator, this would never happen, because the stator is at maximum output above 3000 RPM ( 65% around 2000 RPM), so for those that do long distance rides at above 3000 RPM, there will be a slight fuel mileage increase with a series regulator.
 
#9 ·
Will the headlight relay be overused every time I touch the brakes, and will it take away some power from my brake light and make it a bit dimmer? I suppose not as it is LED... If so, it'd be the only good reason to use the brown wire instead, although having the headlight on before operating the starter is undesirable.
]
FYI the brake light wire is blue with a red tracer, access is at rearmost part of wiring harness, 3 wires, ground; tail light and brake.
For those that have either a compufire or polaris regulator and are using the OEM wire harness that went to the regulator, and you haven't isolated the output through a relay-----------YOUR HEADLIGHT RELAY IS ENERGIZED 24/7, it momentarily turns off when the start relay is energized, then on again.
Another way of putting it:
If your headlight is on, the headlight relay coil is energized as well.
For those that skipped my last post::huh:

One other point, the trigger wire for the headlight relay carries .038 amps, or 38 milliamps for approximately 3 milliseconds , after that it carries nothing, the relay is latched in using the same positive feed that runs the headlight, and this is done through a internal diode in the relay box.
 
#10 ·
RESOLVING THE LEAKAGE ON EITHER SERIES REGULATOR HAS BEEN RESOLVED****GO TO POLARIS REGULATOR INSTALL by me


onewizard, Thanks for all the technical advice and the guide for swapping out the R/R.

Got a question for you regarding the Compu-fire 55402 R/R: Can you tap into 1 phase coming off the stator to close the relay for the headlight rather than using the brake lights? Would I need to put a diode in-line with the tap from the phase to the headlight relay?
First I have a question for you, why Compu-fire. It is twice as expensive and far more difficult to install, it will not directly mount like the polaris, the direction of the cooling fins is at 90' to that of original and the connection comes out in the wrong place and you are going to need to install butt splices or some other joining means. To remove it, you will again need to cut the wiring connections , or install a waterproof terminal strip. Yup that's what I have, if I replaced my 07 with a 2015 Versys, I would ask the dealer to ship it without a regulator or credit me the cost, I would then install a Polaris, it would take me less than 90 minutes to both install and modify everything.

So to your question, you have five choices;
#1 Add a relay and switch your ground wire.

#2 Add a relay and use the brown wire to switch the positive wire.

#3 Butt splice everything and isolate the brown wire, every day you come home, hook up a battery tender, your light will come on every time without doing anything, the problem is, when you turn off your bike, the headlight relay is still trying to turn on your headlight, approximately 38 milliamp, 24/7. The reason is the positive terminal on the original regulator is live all the time, the original regulator only comes into play when you exceed 14.2 to 14.5 VDC, it will produce output current with the brown wire disconnected, and when your headlight burns out, that is because the regulator either didn't have power on the brown wire or your key switch wasn't providing it.

I was lucky, I brought my negative wire all the way up to my frame ground, bike sat for two weeks, went to go for a ride, dead battery
Not impressed, discovered what I have posted in post 387, only this year did I get rid of the relays. Somewhere I had a picture of how I adapted the Compu-fire to the original mounting, using the back mounting bolt, then using a longer bolt on the front and a fender washer from below, compared to the Polaris it is one PITA to install, would I do it again, NO, even if the Polaris was the same price--NO.
#4 butt splice all the wires or find a waterproof terminal strip, or marette all the connections, taping the brown wire, then cut the black wire ,pin #2 of the headlight relay, adding a trigger of your choice, I chose the brake light as it is the only thing besides the signal lights that isn't on when starting, the brake light because I always use my brakes, therefore my headlight is assured to be on when riding ( it only comes into play for about 3 milliseconds at 38 milliamp, afdter that the headlight circuit is latched in using your battery positive, only way to turn it off is with the key switch or hitting the start button.

#5 Install a 4012941 Polaris and follow my instructions, direct footprint, superior 1/4 inch male spade terminals , almost 3 times the surface area per terminal to that of original , rated at 35 amp, 10 more than our stator will output, looks identical to the Kawasaki regulator. And almost 1/2 the cost .
Apparently there is a problem with regulation above 12000 RPM according to postings on Triumph Forum. Our bike red lines at 10500 RPM, that is 525 Hertz, I have no idea how many poles are in the Triumph, ours has six poles X 3 phase, so you will count 18 poles when looking at a stator, I stopped testing at 9000 RPM, because I never ride for any distance with a constant 9000 or above sustained RPM. I hit 9500 RPM at least once every second ride, I am over 65 , but still have the little kid in me. :clap:
 
#11 ·
RESOLVING THE LEAKAGE ON EITHER SERIES REGULATOR HAS BEEN RESOLVED****GO TO POLARIS REGULATOR INSTALL by me


onewizard, Thanks for all the technical advice and the guide for swapping out the R/R.

Got a question for you regarding the Compu-fire 55402 R/R: Can you tap into 1 phase coming off the stator to close the relay for the headlight rather than using the brake lights? Would I need to put a diode in-line with the tap from the phase to the headlight relay?
First I have a question for you, why Compu-fire. It is twice as expensive and far more difficult to install, it will not directly mount like the polaris, the direction of the cooling fins is at 90' to that of original and the connection comes out in the wrong place and you are going to need to install butt splices or some other joining means. To remove it, you will again need to cut the wiring connections , or install a waterproof terminal strip. Yup that's what I have, if I replaced my 07 with a 2015 Versys, I would ask the dealer to ship it without a regulator or credit me the cost, I would then install a Polaris, it would take me less than 90 minutes to both install and modify everything.

So to your question, you have five choices;
#1 Add a relay and switch your ground wire.

#2 Add a relay and use the brown wire to switch the positive wire.

#3 Butt splice everything and isolate the brown wire, every day you come home, hook up a battery tender, your light will come on every time without doing anything, the problem is, when you turn off your bike, the headlight relay is still trying to turn on your headlight, approximately 38 milliamp, 24/7. The reason is the positive terminal on the original regulator is live all the time, the original regulator only comes into play when you exceed 14.2 to 14.5 VDC, it will produce output current with the brown wire disconnected, and when your headlight burns out, that is because the regulator either didn't have power on the brown wire or your key switch wasn't providing it.

I was lucky, I brought my negative wire all the way up to my frame ground, bike sat for two weeks, went to go for a ride, dead battery
Not impressed, discovered what I have posted in post 387, only this year did I get rid of the relays. Somewhere I had a picture of how I adapted the Compu-fire to the original mounting, using the back mounting bolt, then using a longer bolt on the front and a fender washer from below, compared to the Polaris it is one PITA to install, would I do it again, NO, even if the Polaris was the same price--NO.
#4 butt splice all the wires or find a waterproof terminal strip, or marette all the connections, taping the brown wire, then cut the black wire ,pin #2 of the headlight relay, adding a trigger of your choice, I chose the brake light as it is the only thing besides the signal lights that isn't on when starting, the brake light because I always use my brakes, therefore my headlight is assured to be on when riding ( it only comes into play for about 3 milliseconds at 38 milliamp, afdter that the headlight circuit is latched in using your battery positive, only way to turn it off is with the key switch or hitting the start button.

#5 Install a 4012941 Polaris and follow my instructions, direct footprint, superior 1/4 inch male spade terminals , almost 3 times the surface area per terminal to that of original , rated at 35 amp, 10 more than our stator will output, looks identical to the Kawasaki regulator. And almost 1/2 the cost .
Apparently there is a problem with regulation above 12000 RPM according to postings on Triumph Forum. Our bike red lines at 10500 RPM, that is 525 Hertz, I have no idea how many poles are in the Triumph, ours has six poles X 3 phase, so you will count 18 poles when looking at a stator, I stopped testing at 9000 RPM, because I never ride for any distance with a constant 9000 or above sustained RPM. I hit 9500 RPM at least once every second ride, I am over 65 , but still have the little kid in me. :clap:
 
#12 · (Edited)
Polaris Regulator Install

First there really isn't a forum of how to, some of my information is in Burnt stator, some in "is the stator dying or", some in Stator rewinding. The most difficult is burnt stator as it is over 20 pages now. I have had to use search my posts, and in reality I have some highly technical information to wade through.
I am sure that most people looking at how to install a Polaris regulator would by the third line of my post, hit the back button and exit.
So I have been asked several times by inmates :)rolleyes: someone wearing the uniform always comes to mind when I :type: this, also :grinangel:)here about how to. I would like to extract all the pictures and information from the other threads, start a how to
specific i.e., how to test if your stator is shorted or grounded.

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/958633-post82.html

For now I have extracted the links, for those asking, I would prefer you ask in this thread.

Changes required for EITHER Compufire or Polaris regulator --from burnt stator pg 20 this shows the headlight relay wire and discharge diode
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/869410-post387.html

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/864898-post383.html

same location Smiley stator change out and Polaris install
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/862097-post360.html


This thread "Stator rewinding " I use to rewind motors over 40 years ago, what fuse_X did is absolutely awesome
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/978873-post33.html


Keeping optimum voltage
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/897065-post2.html


I am sure I missed a few--but this should help.

:feedback:
 
#14 ·
Shindengen Regulators explained

Both series and shunt Stators
Room for photos and links
 
#13 ·
Shindengen Regulators explained

Both series and shunt Stators



http://www.shindengen.co.jp/product_e/electro/catalog.html
http://www.shindengen.co.jp/product_e/electro/reg.html

SH775 also 4012941 or Polaris SH775

From Invader

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/160673-post36.html

Note
Added November / 2016 : explaining shunt and series difference / Delta and Y winding


This was originally posted in reference to a For Sale of a RM Stator to explain the ability to use after market stators with excellent results provided you follow my advice:


However you need to convert to a Polaris at the same time as the install of the RM stator. This combination will equal or exceed the lifespan of OEM stator / regulator, gets complicated but line volts and phase volts are the same on Delta, Y or Star connected the line volts is 1.732 X phase volts.

To explain, measuring 48 VAC across A to B or B to C , etc. of a Delta winding, means we have 6 poles with 48 VAC across= 8 VAC across each pole So Delta is described as phase volts and line volts being equal, However Line current is 1.732 X phase current, so the Delta wound stator has 2 of 18 gauge copper wires per line out, so @ 25 amp AC
14.434 amp per 18 gauge phase current X 1.732 = 25 Amp AC


Star or Y connected 48 VAC A to star / Y = 48/ 1.732 =27.71 VAC across 6 poles=4.61 VAC across each pole, or almost half the voltage across each pole compared to Delta
To prove the math 1.732 X 27.71 VAC =47.995 VAC , or A star B, B star C or C star A all equal 47.995 VAC Phase to phase
Y or Star connected current , line current and phase current are equal, that is the 25 amp per line out is 25 amp on 1 of 18 gauge wires . So that is why it is imperative to install a Polaris regulator, as normal continuous load is about 60% of maximum or 25 amp X 60%= 15 amp or the same as the delta wound 18 gauge wire.

So a RM stator with a shunt regulator would have 25 amp on one 18 gauge wire when stator is able to provide maximum power, your engine oil will try and cool it, but that is the reason why some guys buy after market and after 2 years it fails, they figure it cost a fraction of OEM, just buy another one, well if you spend a bit more and install a series regulator, as my math proves, your after market stator may never ever fail again. Like I said before , your bike your money, just trying to share some knowledge .
 
#16 ·
Polaris Regulator Install MK-1 & MK-2 Revised 2018/ Photos 2015 trigger

More of a simple, very quick and extremely accurate test, to prove if any stator damage has occurred.

Basically, use your idle adjustment screw and get the RPM around 2000 RPM, this is warmed up RPM, do not try holding the throttle and measuring this.

So depending how fast you are, you may need to hook up your battery tender.

So what you need is some fine jewelers screwdrivers, straight pins, paper clips or something that can be inserted in your socket of the stator plug, from the back side, also a meter that reads volts AC, preferably with alligator clips on the probes . This is the 3 wires coming from the stator, to a plug close to your throttle position sensor. This connector has a latch locking it together, to release you need to squeeze down on the latch and wiggle / pull at the same time. When apart you are measuring the output from the stator under no load conditions, for your purpose, make a drawing and identify the 3 female crimps as #1,#2,#3, as long as you know what you are calling when referencing your measurements. So at 2000 RPM measure 1 to 2; 2 to 3; 3 to

If you have any questions ask me. Very little about induction I don't know, that has been my specialty for over 40 years.

BB Code photos to come in 2023
 
#15 ·
Polaris Regulator Install MK-1 & MK-2 Revised 2018/ Photos 2015 trigger

More of a simple, very quick and extremely accurate test, to prove if any stator damage has occurred.

Basically, use your idle adjustment screw and get the RPM around 2000 RPM, this is warmed up RPM, do not try holding the throttle and measuring this.

So depending how fast you are, you may need to hook up your battery tender.

So what you need is some fine jewelers screwdrivers, straight pins, paper clips or something that can be inserted in your socket of the stator plug, from the back side, also a meter that reads volts AC, preferably with alligator clips on the probes . This is the 3 wires coming from the stator, to a plug close to your throttle position sensor. This connector has a latch locking it together, to release you need to squeeze down on the latch and wiggle / pull at the same time. When apart you are measuring the output from the stator under no load conditions, for your purpose, make a drawing and identify the 3 female crimps as #1,#2,#3, as long as you know what you are calling when referencing your measurements. So at 2000 RPM measure 1 to 2; 2 to 3; 3 to 1******that is your 3 readings, they should be around 24 to 28 VAC at 2000 RPM, the readings should be 0.5 VAC within each other, that is 1==28.0; 2==27.5; 3 ==28.3----

-if any readings are like the following ****1==24; 2==16; 3==22, you have shorted turns.

There is a third test that can also be done, measure 1,2,3 to ground, record these three readings, should be around 17 volts AC

Photos are testing the stator for damage, nothing to do with verifying if the regulator is functioning.
Note:
One thing I have never mentioned, between my test and Kawasaki. Kawasaki requests 4000 or 5000 RPM, at that speed the rotor is producing maximum flux density, at 2000 RPM it is about 25% of maximum.
The difference is that, at 25% flux density, a small turn to turn short or turn to line short will have a large impact on the AC output. At 100% output, the imbalance between phases will be less noticeable.


Note Added This in February 2017 To Test for Phase Loss on a Series regulator under Actual Load Conditions

A better way would be using a small AC clamp on current probe rated for 400 HZ @ 25 Amp AC, pretty sure no one on this forum has one.So I came up with this:
This test is to prove all 3 phases of a Series regulator are functioning, such as Polaris or Compu Fire. What you will need is some straight pins, needles or jewelers screwdrivers, to insert from the stator wire side of the connector. You are measuring VAC, you need to set idle around 1800 to 2000 RPM, have the headlight on, measure A to B, B to C, C to A , record the readings, they should all be around 16 to 18 Volts AC , battery voltage should be 14.2 VDC. If you get one of the phases reading 22 to 24 VAC or more, that phase isn't conducting/ being fired, which means you have a single phase condition on the stator. The stator is rated at something like 24 amp output, phase current is rated at 14 amp maximum, if you have a phase loss, you will get a single phase condition, with a maximum 24 amp available, hence the burnt stator.

If you have any questions ask me. Very little about induction I don't know, that has been my specialty for over 40 years.
 

Attachments

#17 ·
Discharge of Battery by Headlight Relay

I will try and use google translate.
First get a new battery, you will destroy the stator you have and the regulator using bad battery.

The electronic regulator has electronic connections to both the Battery + ( positive) AND the headlight relay , this will kill your battery in 2 weeks. Disconnect battery positive + ,connect amp meter between battery terminal positive and battery, you will have 0.038 amps discharge approximately, unplug center relay socket ( headlight relay) current will drop to 0.001 amps ( ECU and clock current). 0.002amp will take 6 months to kill battery.

I will try later, if you don't care and have a battery tender, hook the tender up and forget the wiring changes.

I will try to simplify in this thread, so stay posted for the next couple days. .
 
#19 ·
Trigger for headlight relay is brake light

Photos missing-coming 2023
 
#18 ·
Trigger for headlight relay is brake light

Now is better. I understand what is the point. The next is bought a new yuasa and try to reconfigure the wiring as you suggest. I only need, for Italian law, that the headlight will be always on. Is not necessary that you try to translate whit Google but easy instruction just like a young child. Thanks onewizard
So I will do as before and translate , for all others, understand that Kawasaki buried the tapped wire to the headlight relay wire from
the stator , in the harness. Both original and my method results in the headlight coming on and staying on once triggered. The difference is I trigger it using the brake light*****this takes less than one second of operating either hand brake or foot brake***


It is the pin #2 , black wire, on the headlight / ECU relay, center 6 pin socket, center bottom pin, cut wire about 1.5 inches from plug, splice wire to the 1.5 inch wire to the plug ( approximately 3 feet long) and attach to brake light BLUE with RED TRACER wire, this is your trigger wire that takes the place of the stator output. THE BLACK WIRE ,the other end of what you cut ( at the relay box), runs to the stator and needs a bit of tape on it. See Post #9 for pictures



After the headlight is on only two ways to turn it off #1 by turning the key off #2 by hitting the start button for 1 second without having either brake on.

End result is the same except, when you start the bike first thing, the battery charges faster without the headlight on . To explain further, the headlight relay is what is referred to as a latch circuit, once it is energized no way of turning it off without removing power to the contact portion.




Revision Headlight on, even when on Fire for 2015 copied from post #21
OK
For those that are use to what your carburetor style bike did back in the 70's and want the light to come on, even when your bike is on fire, I have the solution.

No diode needed, no tapping of the brake switch wire, in fact the light will function just like OEM but without killing your battery while it sits waiting for the snow to melt.

Page 16-80 of the service manual. You need to cut the black wire pin#2 like in my previous post, I will add that photo. This time, you are going to add a jumper from pin#2 to pin #3, which is a gray wire, the instant the key switch is turned on, so will the headlight--no worries, the instant and for the duration of cranking the bike, the headlight relay is forced off, after release of the start button, bingo on comes the headlight.
Turn your key to off and the light goes off, I can't make it simpler than that.




Beginning to think I am speaking Spanish here:frown2:
I would prefer the people doing the change to fully understand that in Canada, like many countries, it is mandatory to have a headlight on at all times while ridding , that is why my circuit works more or less fool proof.

If you don't understand ask first before you proceed, best to do it right the first time.

As of October 2016, I am making a attempt to simplify the install, First time ever I encountered a exceeded number of characters in post #9, until I find the time, I intend to extract info related to this title, and move it here.
 
#20 ·
Polaris Regulator Install 2017 Revised / Brake Trigger

Highlighted area is the simple solution to the headlight relay parasitic drain. Revised 2018

A option that some are going with, Triumph Harness, which involves getting 10 gauge butt splices and 14 gauge, what you require is dependent on the wire gauge of this harness. Triumph Harness advantage, is extra wire length , allowing cutting the original harness connector of Kawasaki leaving 1.5 to 2 inches of wire on the removed connector to allow restoration back to OEM when selling the bike.

Triumph harness, T2500676 Triumph Link Lead, Regulator $9.08 - 2WheelPros


Parts required if you plan on going with the OEM wiring and no after market harness; you need two insulated 10 gauge female spade stakon crimps and three 14 gauge female spade insulated crimps , some silicone, 3 feet of 16 or 18 gauge wire, solder or two positaps, crimping pliers,wire cutters and strippers, electrical tape, plastic sandwich bag if you are not using the Triumph harness.

Using the Triumph Harness: Keep in mind, with the harness you have a additional 5 connections, you will need to cut the connectors off the end that would go to the stator, and butt splice or solder these 5 connections.The two insulated 10 gauge female spade stakon crimps and three 14 gauge female spade insulated crimps, are not required when using this harness Several people have stated they found it easier to use the Triumph harness.

Before you start, two options, if you plan on installing a diode, remove the main 30 amp fuse, if you don't intend to install a diode, remove the positive battery terminal , instead of the main fuse.

Wiring of Polaris colour code, looking at inside male spade terminals, grey socket on left, black output socket on right. Left grey socket is 3 phase input in any order, that is the 3 black wires . Black output socket is left terminal Positive output, OEM Kawasaki Positive wire is white with a blue tracer. Black output socket right terminal is negative output, Kawi colour is black with a yellow tracer, photo #15. FYI if you make a mistake on the output wires, that is put positive where negative should be **good news, you get nothing outputted , also if you connect all 3 phase, start the bike and don't have both positive and negative connected and also to a battery with a minimum 8 volts, again you will get no output.
Using 1/4 inch female spade stakons direct to the Polaris, expect to need to open the very start of the spade connector, as the Polaris male spade connectors are oversize in thickness, using electrical grease sparingly is also a good idea in either case of install.

Using the Triumph harness you can ignore the following sentence.
I used a wrap of electrical tape around each spade connector, this allowed me to pump in silicone into the cavity and in previous posts on page one I explain in Smileys post reverse taping and the purpose of the sandwich bag.

The following involves removing the gas tank;you see the rubber mounts for the gas tank photo #13( FYI the gas tank slides back then lift up ,after you disconnect the fuel line and fuel pump wiring socket, some have tried lifting up).You will see the relay box very close to the fuel line, the center relay is the headlight relay, see photo #11, pay close attention to the fuel line red clip notice at the very top, a raised square part, this is to get a small slot screw drive in to release the clip, notice the red portion is above the black portion and this is the released position. To work this off the bundy tube of the gas tank requires some twisting and combined pulling, exercising caution on pre 2015 as the tube was nylon and part of the fuel pump . I use a very small finger tip of Vaseline on the bundy tube before reinstalling.



Discharge Diode NOT USED 2018 Revision


So much discussion in previous posts about the diode, if you are not planning on using a diode, see wiring diagram Page 16-80 of the service manual ( 2015).

You need to cut the black wire pin#2 of the center headlight relay, like in my following post. This time, you are going to add a jumper from the cut wire pin#2 of the headlight relay socket to pin #3 of the same socket, which is a gray wire, you still need to isolate the black wire you cut photo #11 with the yellow tape on it.

The instant the key switch is turned on, so will the headlight--no worries, the instant and for the duration of cranking the bike, the headlight relay is forced off, after release of the start button, bingo on comes the headlight.

Turn your key to off and the light goes off, I can't make it simpler than that.


Install With a Diode:

It is the pin #2 , black wire, on the headlight / ECU relay, center 6 pin socket, center bottom pin, cut wire about 1.5 inches from plug, see photo #10, I have a screw driver behind the pin #2 black wire,this black wire 1.5 inch wire to the plug, gets spliced either solder or tap connector to your brake wire, see photo #11 ( approximately 3 feet long, I used purple wire ) and attach to brake light BLUE with RED TRACER wire, this is your trigger wire that takes the place of the stator output. THE BLACK WIRE ,the other end of what you cut at the headlight relay connector also photo #11 , has yellow tape on it photo #11 ( at the relay box), runs to the stator and needs a bit of tape on it, I use yellow tape as it stands out, something like be aware, any electrical tape will work.

If you follow the wire harness from the right hand front brake/start switch, you will come to a connector, see photo 13 & 14, this is my 2015, however the 07 is the same,you will see the purple wire from the pin #2 headlight relay socket,tapped onto the brake wire, photo #13 , blue with red tracer.

Photos #4 & #6 are a optional connection to the rear brake light switch wire and show another form of tap/splice connector, done on a 07 , much more difficult to work on, especially on 2015. My preferred trigger connection is as previously described, using the front brake connection, same color code.

See photo # 5 and you can also go to post http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1106874-post28.html to see the diode on my 2015, as the connector has cheapened up on the 2015, I also have additional photos of the relay box there.
I used a 1N4007 because it was $0.10 and had lots of them, 1 amp at any voltage 100 volts or better, note the direction/ polarity of the band of the diode, band end is on the yellow with red tracer side.The purpose of the diode is to prevent random turning on of the headlight, without the diode, 3 out of 5 starts your headlight will come on without triggering the headlight relay from the brake switch.

I explained in http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1073673-post11.html #8 of that post. If you look at photo #9, it is 1 step before the final step, which involves taking electrical tape and giving a wrap covering the diode, also note this is taped tight against the harness, as some comment from others of not being able to put the cover back on over the main fuse.Also the ring stakons were just shoved in behind the pins of the connector, notice photo #8, the stakon barrel is facing you with the polarity band on the left, the reason for this is to allow bending the diode back tight towards the harness, then wrapping with tape, tight against the harness.

Listing of pictures for those that like looking rather than reading, in order of posting, top left would be #1, second row from left would be #6

#1 & #2 compliments of Eddie, relay box showing headlight relay socket disconnected.
#3 is the OEM regulator and connector
#4 & #6 is one option of splicing the trigger wire ( purple )for the headlight relay connected to the rear brake light in these photos, brake wire is blue with red tracer
#10,11,12 are my 2015 headlight relay plug, exactly the same as MK-1 & MK-2
#11 shows the pin#2 being cut and soldered to the purple trigger wire from the brake circuit, in this case I use the brake circuit from the front brake
#12 shows the wire taped at the headlight relay plug
#13 shows the purple trigger wire soldered to the blue with red tracer brake wire, this is the 5 wire harness from the brake/start/kill switch, as in #14
#14 is a 5 wire harness from the brake/start/kill switch, before it was apart , note the rubber mounts for the gas tank, this is 2015, trace from Handlebar if unsure
#15 is a shot of the polaris regulator, note ( gray socket) 3phase stator wire, (black socket) black yellow negative and white blue positive
#16 is a close up of the diode for those bold enough to attempt this mod, once done put several wraps of electrical tape around the diode and wire harness, harness holds things in place
 

Attachments

#21 ·
Polaris Regulator Install 2017 Revised / Brake Trigger

Highlighted area is the simple solution to the headlight relay parasitic drain. Revised 2018

A option that some are going with, Triumph Harness, which involves getting 10 gauge butt splices and 14 gauge, what you require is dependent on the wire gauge of this harness. Triumph Harness advantage, is extra wire length , allowing cutting the original harness connector of Kawasaki leaving 1.5 to 2 inches of wire on the removed connector to allow restoration back to OEM when selling the bike.

Triumph harness, T2500676 Triumph Link Lead, Regulator $9.08 - 2WheelPros


Parts required if you plan on going with the OEM wiring and no after market harness; you need two insulated 10 gauge female spade stakon crimps and three 14 gauge female spade insulated crimps , some silicone, 3 feet of 16 or 18 gauge wire, solder or two positaps, crimping pliers,wire cutters and strippers, electrical tape, plastic sandwich bag if you are not using the Triumph harness.

Using the Triumph Harness: Keep in mind, with the harness you have a additional 5 connections, you will need to cut the connectors off the end that would go to the stator, and butt splice or solder these 5 connections.The two insulated 10 gauge female spade stakon crimps and three 14 gauge female spade insulated crimps, are not required when using this harness Several people have stated they found it easier to use the Triumph harness.

Before you start, two options, if you plan on installing a diode, remove the main 30 amp fuse, if you don't intend to install a diode, remove the positive battery terminal , instead of the main fuse.

Wiring of Polaris colour code, looking at inside male spade terminals, grey socket on left, black output socket on right. Left grey socket is 3 phase input in any order, that is the 3 black wires . Black output socket is left terminal Positive output, OEM Kawasaki Positive wire is white with a blue tracer. Black output socket right terminal is negative output, Kawi colour is black with a yellow tracer, photo #15. FYI if you make a mistake on the output wires, that is put positive where negative should be **good news, you get nothing outputted , also if you connect all 3 phase, start the bike and don't have both positive and negative connected and also to a battery with a minimum 8 volts, again you will get no output.
Using 1/4 inch female spade stakons direct to the Polaris, expect to need to open the very start of the spade connector, as the Polaris male spade connectors are oversize in thickness, using electrical grease sparingly is also a good idea in either case of install.

Using the Triumph harness you can ignore the following sentence.
I used a wrap of electrical tape around each spade connector, this allowed me to pump in silicone into the cavity and in previous posts on page one I explain in Smileys post reverse taping and the purpose of the sandwich bag.

The following involves removing the gas tank;you see the rubber mounts for the gas tank photo #13( FYI the gas tank slides back then lift up ,after you disconnect the fuel line and fuel pump wiring socket, some have tried lifting up).You will see the relay box very close to the fuel line, the center relay is the headlight relay, see photo #11, pay close attention to the fuel line red clip notice at the very top, a raised square part, this is to get a small slot screw drive in to release the clip, notice the red portion is above the black portion and this is the released position. To work this off the bundy tube of the gas tank requires some twisting and combined pulling, exercising caution on pre 2015 as the tube was nylon and part of the fuel pump . I use a very small finger tip of Vaseline on the bundy tube before reinstalling.



Discharge Diode NOT USED 2018 Revision


So much discussion in previous posts about the diode, if you are not planning on using a diode, see wiring diagram Page 16-80 of the service manual ( 2015).

You need to cut the black wire pin#2 of the center headlight relay, like in my following post. This time, you are going to add a jumper from the cut wire pin#2 of the headlight relay socket to pin #3 of the same socket, which is a gray wire, you still need to isolate the black wire you cut photo #11 with the yellow tape on it.

The instant the key switch is turned on, so will the headlight--no worries, the instant and for the duration of cranking the bike, the headlight relay is forced off, after release of the start button, bingo on comes the headlight.

Turn your key to off and the light goes off, I can't make it simpler than that.


Install With a Diode:

It is the pin #2 , black wire, on the headlight / ECU relay, center 6 pin socket, center bottom pin, cut wire about 1.5 inches from plug, see photo #10, I have a screw driver behind the pin #2 black wire,this black wire 1.5 inch wire to the plug, gets spliced either solder or tap connector to your brake wire, see photo #11 ( approximately 3 feet long, I used purple wire ) and attach to brake light BLUE with RED TRACER wire, this is your trigger wire that takes the place of the stator output. THE BLACK WIRE ,the other end of what you cut at the headlight relay connector also photo #11 , has yellow tape on it photo #11 ( at the relay box), runs to the stator and needs a bit of tape on it, I use yellow tape as it stands out, something like be aware, any electrical tape will work.

If you follow the wire harness from the right hand front brake/start switch, you will come to a connector, see photo 13 & 14, this is my 2015, however the 07 is the same,you will see the purple wire from the pin #2 headlight relay socket,tapped onto the brake wire, photo #13 , blue with red tracer.

Photos #4 & #6 are a optional connection to the rear brake light switch wire and show another form of tap/splice connector, done on a 07 , much more difficult to work on, especially on 2015. My preferred trigger connection is as previously described, using the front brake connection, same color code.

See photo # 5 and you can also go to post http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1106874-post28.html to see the diode on my 2015, as the connector has cheapened up on the 2015, I also have additional photos of the relay box there.
I used a 1N4007 because it was $0.10 and had lots of them, 1 amp at any voltage 100 volts or better, note the direction/ polarity of the band of the diode, band end is on the yellow with red tracer side.The purpose of the diode is to prevent random turning on of the headlight, without the diode, 3 out of 5 starts your headlight will come on without triggering the headlight relay from the brake switch.

I explained in http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1073673-post11.html #8 of that post. If you look at photo #9, it is 1 step before the final step, which involves taking electrical tape and giving a wrap covering the diode, also note this is taped tight against the harness, as some comment from others of not being able to put the cover back on over the main fuse.Also the ring stakons were just shoved in behind the pins of the connector, notice photo #8, the stakon barrel is facing you with the polarity band on the left, the reason for this is to allow bending the diode back tight towards the harness, then wrapping with tape, tight against the harness.

Listing of pictures for those that like looking rather than reading, in order of posting, top left would be #1, second row from left would be #6

#1 & #2 compliments of Eddie, relay box showing headlight relay socket disconnected.
#3 is the OEM regulator and connector
#4 & #6 is one option of splicing the trigger wire ( purple )for the headlight relay connected to the rear brake light in these photos, brake wire is blue with red tracer
#10,11,12 are my 2015 headlight relay plug, exactly the same as MK-1 & MK-2
#11 shows the pin#2 being cut and soldered to the purple trigger wire from the brake circuit, in this case I use the brake circuit from the front brake
#12 shows the wire taped at the headlight relay plug
#13 shows the purple trigger wire soldered to the blue with red tracer brake wire, this is the 5 wire harness from the brake/start/kill switch, as in #14
#14 is a 5 wire harness from the brake/start/kill switch, before it was apart , note the rubber mounts for the gas tank, this is 2015, trace from Handlebar if unsure
#15 is a shot of the polaris regulator, note ( gray socket) 3phase stator wire, (black socket) black yellow negative and white blue positive
#16 is a close up of the diode for those bold enough to attempt this mod, once done put several wraps of electrical tape around the diode and wire harness, harness holds things in place
 

Attachments

#22 ·
2015 Stator / Regulator

Well I got good news and bad news and more work for me but simpler since the location is in your face.

I won't be able to report on the output as I used a doner stator and my 2015 is still apart waiting for snail mail from the US to deliver my 90' fitting so I can put glycol back in***

OK I feel better, but probably will be April before I see it. If any of you inmates have a 1 inch Pex to 1 inch Pex elbow kicking around and live in Ontario and you don't need it---ya I know fat chance of that

So until I can run my Moto can't report on output.

This is what I know for sure:

Regulator is SHUNT, :thumbdown: no longer use the brown key switch wire.

Anyone know the make of the regulator plug? Looking at making a adapter plug , as wiring is in short supply on the 2015. Like Eddie said SHORT

Way back as a Electrician, when I still pulled wire ( JD jump in any time) the saying was in reference to measuring wire when making up a harness to pull into conduit " Rather be looking at it than for it
 
#23 · (Edited by Moderator)
Anyone know the make of the regulator plug? Looking at making a adapter plug , as wiring is in short supply on the 2015. Like Eddie said SHORT
LINK LEAD REGULATOR Triumph Motorcycle Part Number T2500676 ($10.00 +/-)

T2500676 Triumph Link Lead, Regulator.



Note: These Triumph connectors have often been used when adapting Polaris regulators to different motorcycles.
 
#27 ·
Thanks for your help.
I have made what I need, installing the Compu-Fire regulator.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Regulator / Shunt verses Series

I got a couple questionable looks today when I mentioned I am replacing my brand new 2015 regulator. I like where they mounted it, however one consideration I would suggest is to extract the pins from the OEM socket, cut the wire at the crimp, all wiring is way too short. You could order the socket kit from the post above if you wanted to restore to original, word of caution, that style of crimp requires a special crimper. I will post pictures of how I did my compufire and you could do the same for Polaris.

So, the main event:
Most equipment whether a electric motor or what is referred to as switch gear, or outlets in your home have a rating. Your duplex outlet is on a 15 amp breaker, the wire is rated to carry 15 amp, 15 X 120 = 1800 watts, however most equipment on that 15 amp circuit has a rating of 1500 watts or less.
Your wiring and breaker etc has a 80% rating, that is it isn't rated to carry 1800 watts continuously, which is 100% rated . Most equipment is rated the same way, throw in a higher ambient temperature and you need to de-rate your equipment even more--so that 80% rating becomes 70% or 60%.I hope this makes sense.
Much like a human being, hot weather and exposure to the sun , heat stroke is possible and precautions need to be taken, this applies to everything electric, heat is number one killer--you've heard "the magic smoke escaped", so having a crude electrical regulator in 2016 where it forces the stator to run 100% whenever possible makes no sense, especially since technology has been around and produced for over 10 years ie. Compu-Fire for one.

So this is where it makes no sense installing a shunt regulator and rumors have it that the 2015 has more power--we'll see.
A shunt regulator makes the stater run at 100% all the time it is above 3000 RPM, and run at maximum available output below 3000 RPM

The series regulator , say your total load is 10 amp DC ( 40% load), injectors, fuel pump and headlight , city lights and tail light, ignition, and your cell phone.I picked 25 amp rather than 23 amp for calculation purposes --and don't know the rating of the 2015, ( 10 amp / 25 amp= 40%).

With the series regulator ,stater is running at 40% load all the time, no matter what the RPM, So which stater do you think will fail first the 40% loaded one or the 100% loaded one? Plus it isn't magic, conversion from HP to electricity is at best 50% efficient , so you are burning fuel to heat up the environment, wasting 60% of the electricity produced.

Still not convinced, at idle the shunt and series regulators are equal, generally the loads of the Versys are equal to or slightly less than stater output, when we go above idle, the shunt regulator shorts out the excess above 14.2 VDC. The series works in reverse, it is full on at idle giving what is needed to maintain 14.2 VDC , once we go above idle and attempt to exceed 14.2 VDC the series regulator starts to switch off, the higher we go in RPMs the faster it switches off, so the stator only sees the load demanded using the Series Regulator.

So the shunt regulator and stater are always going through a heat cool cycle as you go from idle to 5000 6000 RPM, so this eventually causes the magnet wire coating to fail --hence Burnt stator
 
#30 ·
Well, I was already sold on the idea months ago, as I have been following your posts, but I was waiting for a more elegant solution to the brown wire. Nice to know none is needed. Can't wait to rip out my shinny new regulator. I usually find it's when I am getting "questionable looks," that I know I am on the right path. Though, I must admit that I have at times appreciated the stator left foot warming action in freezing weather. Maybe I'll run winter and summer regulators.
Most everything I have learned about motorcycle electronics I have leaned through your posts, and you are one of the main reasons that I joined this forum. I look forward to seeing your results. I've been running heated grips, heated gloves, heated jacket liner, 3 amp usb, 85 leds in strips on topcase and license plate, and my charging voltage stays just above 14 volts, a little less at idle. Actually, that's probably enough to keep a series regulator nice and warm in the winter. Guess I can live with a year round regulator after all.
 
#31 ·
Yup really ****ty oops, I posted about it on my new member thread.
Not saying my method would have averted disaster, but I use the same method on my hydraulic lift, I have climbed on and off the bike, and would say the lift would go over before the bike would move. And yes, I have ratchet tie downs, they won't directly attach to the tripple tree but my 1300 LB nylon bull pull line will. I have picked the whole bike up with one attachment using it, in a formed loop, and a cable hoist, really tough stuff. Same method I brought my 2015 home with , over 100 KM , and I was booting it, had to slow down because of severe cross winds, wind was inflating the tarp to the point of starting to pull the trailer sideways. So slowed down to the speed limit.:grin2:
well almost--can't post what i was doing, as that would imply that I was breaking the law, and I never do that:rolleyes: , not even on the bike>:)--never0:)
come on , have a little faith in what I am saying here----OK , ya , just me commenting-- OK maybe once in a while--off the record
 
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