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Motorcycle Jack????

6K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  spiderman 
#1 ·
was looking at options for lifting other than paddock stands...and came across this jack that has a modified lifting plate as an option. in the discription it says for bikes that basically has obstacles between the jack and frame... thought i would share and get some opinions....
http://www.motorcyclejacks.com/MAL-2.shtml


2 1/2" collapsed (5 1/2" w/ adapter) 16" upright maximum (19" w/adapter)
Swing out, lock down stabilizer bars Rubber Padded Lifting surfaces
One Year Warranty 4 Tie Down Hooks
6 Position AUTO Safety Locks Pedal For Release
Weighs 92 Lbs Rugged engineering plastic casters
Turns On A Dime Special Adapter Included


This is the newest, most feature packed Jack you can buy. It is by far the best (but not the cheapest) on the market. It has a massive 1500-pound lifting capacity, which will safely lift most every motorcycle, and ATV, including Harley Davidson, Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Indian, BMW, Polaris, etc. If a high quality and feature packed jack is what you are looking for, then look no further.

This lift has many more features than the original ATVJ-3 (which we also carry) It has the lowest collapsed height (2 1/2") we've ever seen on any jack so you can get it under virtually any bike no matter how low. If your bike has been lowered or you're planning to lower it and are concerned about get it in the air, this jack is what you need. The collapsed height is 2 1/2" and the full upright height is 16" You can clean/ polish, repair or work on your bike with it up as high as 16 inches. Talk about comfortable and convenient! You can turn your bike on a dime thanks to the steel casters in front and easy roll rotating engineering plastic casters in the rear and then tuck it into the tightest of spots in your garage or shed. You can easily get your bike in and out of a tight spot you could never roll it into. For some that means the difference between indoor and outdoor storage.

It has six position safety locks that automatically engage and disengage when you raise and lower it, so they are always set by default and you don't even have to think about releasing them; it works automatically when you depress the pedal to lower it. This makes the jack extra safe and by default.

It has 4 tie down hooks allowing you to strap your bike to the jack for extra security. We recommend strapping your bike to the jack when you changing weight and balance - like removing a wheel. For everyday use you probably don't need to strap your bike to it. If you need a good set of ratchet straps please see ours by clicking here. You can add the set of 2 to the purchase of a jack for only $25.95.

It has a non-skid foot pump for hands free lifting and another non-skid foot pedal to lower it. The pedal for lowering makes it much easier than the others. It has rubber padded, extra wide, load surfaces that will protect the finish on your bikes frame. There's also a special handle that you can attach to easily pull the jack without bending over.

There are also Stabilizer Arms that swing out and screw down to a locked position giving the jack awesome stability. This is a unique feature.

The patent pending adapter is fully adjustable so for most every bike, you'll get it in the air. Most bikes don't but if yours has anything hanging below the frame that would get in the way of the lifting surfaces of the jack this adapter will get around it. Exhaust, oil pan, and fairings are the most common obstacles. The "V" shaped bunks are designed to reach up and grab the frame around the obstacle and lift from the frame without putting pressure where it shouldn't be. The adapter is included at no additional charge.

This Jack weighs 92 pounds in the box! So if you have to lift it be careful! It's built to last with high quality powder coated steel and comes with a full 1-year manufacture's warranty. It's absolutely complete. Everything you now want, so you can have your bike in the air immediately, is right here in one box delivered directly to your door. Don't leave without placing your order! This jack will change your relationship with your bike.
 

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#6 · (Edited)
Josh you need to look for something like the attached picture. I made this one buy you have to have the bike tethered on either side and the front wheel locked down for it to safely work. It uses the footrests as a lifting point so there is no pressure anywhere else on the bike. You can make one pretty easy or have a welding shop make you one if you want to try it. The scissor jack can be picked up at Northern Tool for $9.99. Here's the link

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200361858_200361858

I have a lift that I use this jack on and it's great, but it cannot be used on a free standing bike. My center stand will be out within the next couple of weeks if you want to go that way. I'll keep you informed.
 
#7 ·
Don,I just started working on a project like this today. I think your jack points under the pegs is the best way to go, but I also want to get the front end off the ground at the same time. Doesn't look like there's much up front to use for a jack point. I'm hoping to make an adapter plate that can be used with the Harbor Freight lift. Hopefully I'll have something together next week and I submit some pics.
 
#8 ·
Why not use the existent holes in the bike (similar to ABBA )?. A friend of mine has a platform on wheels, on which has a jack similar to the ABBA one, except that he also uses two engine mounting points for the front. With all this system on wheels he can then jack up the bike, and move his Z1000 around.
 
#9 ·
OK, I'm not real proud with this but it's what I've come up with today. After supporting the bike by the peg mounts there is still a lot of weight on the front end. I acknowledge that the engine mounts could be used but I'd really not mess with those bolts for a variety of reasons. I found a good jack point near the bird's mouth of the front frame. Just above the radiator there is a "tang" for lack of a better term. This projection is pretty hefty so I thought I'd just go ahead and use it. I flattened one end of a pipe so it would fit on the tang a little more securely. The other end of the pipe seemed to fit nicely over the bottle jack plunger. I drilled a 3/8" hole about 1 1/2" from the end of the pipe and ran a bolt through it so the jack plunger won't just slide up inside the pipe. Then there was the little problem of the pipe hitting both the tire and also the radiator. I made some notches in the pipe and bent it into a slight S shape to get around the problems. Then welded the gaps shut.
Now the bike is hoisted securely on 3 points and it's surprisingly secure. I could weld the jack to a larger base plate and that would improve it even more but I don't think it's necessary.
OK, it looks real goofy and if you want to laugh, well, I'd probably join along. But it really works pretty well and I can easily pull either wheel off with this setup. The price is certainly right. I think next I'll work on a DIY rear stand that uses the spools.
 

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