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Sprocket choices

16K views 69 replies 31 participants last post by  unstable_rider 
#1 ·
I've read about changing sprockets to get a lower rpm at highway speed. So far I'd read about either a 16T front or 45T rear. Today I read about a 44T rear. I believe stock is 15/46? Does anyone know the formula(s) to calculate the change in rpm with various sprocket sizes? Is there a need to alter the chain with any of these options and if so which? Thanks for any and all input.
 
#2 ·
No Formula, just math.

15:46 = .33
16:46 = .35
15:44 = .34
16:44 = .36

.35 x 100 / .33 = 106
(Where .33 is 100km/h, .35 will be 106km/h at the same RPM.)

or

.33 X 4200 / .35 = 3960
(Where 4200 RPM would get you 60mph with the 15:46, The 16:46 would get you 3960 RPM at the same 60mph.)
 
#4 ·
My hero was always the tortoise so I doubt it would be a problem. I can always drop down a gear if I need to. I'm thinking 15/43 or maybe even 15/42 to get good highway cruising and mpg returns but probably 15/43. Thanks for the links and the comments everyone.
 
#9 ·
IMHO - be CAREFUL gearing UP. If you're ever in a 'dodgy' situation, trying to turn around in 1st gear, it becomes very easy to get a "cough - STALL" fall-over situation, which can lead to all sorts of complications, to the bike as well as to YOU.

:goodluck:
 
#10 ·
I just replaced my chain and sprockets - got just over 22,000km from the originals. Sounded like a grinder for the last few thousand km though. I ride in the rain a lot and didn't maintain the chain as well as I should have... I had installed a 43 tooth with the stock 15 and loved it. I wanted to install the same sizes, but my local store had issues getting them, so I settled on a 16 tooth front and a 45 tooth rear and and 520 X-ring chain (all JT Sprockets and a heavy duty JT Z1R520 chain). It came with a rivet master link which was a bit of a pain to install, but a ball peen hammer and a big block of steel between chain and rear tire and I was able to peen the rivets over perfectly. The most time was spent cleaning all the nasty chain lube off the wheel and the sprocket areas. Wow... what a difference! The bike is smoother, quieter, less chain snatch, etc. It is even a bit taller than my previous gearing, but works well. It even wheelies better - carries the front further. :) But as Eddie mentioned, with the fuel injection a bit touchy, slow rpm is a bit dicier. Still worth it in my humble opinion. Dave
 
#21 · (Edited)
I think stock, where I can run 81-83 mph at 6000 rpm in 6th, is just fine. If you like doing mods for mods-sake then go for it; but w/ the stock, you're only riding at just over half redline at the highest highways speeds. There's plenty of room for more juice at that point if you get tired of cruising, and you've still got 40-45 more mph.

I reckon slowing the RPMs where you don't have to shift so much at lower speeds is a different issue.
 
#28 ·
Yeah, I find my "sweet spot" is about 6,100 to 6,200 RPM...which puts me with my gearing at about 84-86 mph...Perfect!!! :yeahsmile::clap::thumb:

Before I did the sprocket change, I just "did the math" in my head anyway..."lets see...90 mph is really 84 mph...etc" Kinda like when I used to turn the wall clock ahead 8 minutes to try and trick myself into leaving earlier...never worked because I would just "do the math." :D

I consider that a "side benefit" of changing the gearing...with a 16 up front, or a 44/43 in the back your speedo is basically "dead on" accurate...though the odo is off and reads less (6-7 miles less per 100 miles or so) than what your actual mileage is...another "side benifit" IMO....your odo says you have gone 20,000 miles and you have actually gone about 21,200 miles....:)
 
#29 ·
:interesting: Mine too...:D
I have said this before...I believe with a 16t (or a 44/43 in the rear) the Versys is actually faster in, say, the 1/4 mile. You might lose a little off the line, but you can carry each gear way farther which would result in a time savings of one less shift. i.e. the stock V would finish in 5th gear, while the "geared V" would still be in 4th. Anyone who has ever raced knows the time savings of a single shift can be pretty significant....
 
#30 ·
Is stock set up 15/46 sprockets? I seem to have worn out my rear while front seems like new? Why would this happen? I have been tensioning chain correctly as far as I know, and lubing with chain wax about every second fill up. Chain and both sprockets were replaced at same time two summers ago. My odometer does not work so I have no idea how many miles on this setup, my guess would be 10,000 miles or so. Seems like a huge price range for sprockets,, from $40-100. What the heck do I buy and from where on internet? I am in Canada.
 
#31 ·
One possible reason would be a steel front sprocket and an aluminium rear. I had this problem myself this spring. The softer aluminium rear sprocket wore out quicker, resulting in a stretched chain and worn out front sprocket.

Try using steel next time if this is the case.

I just got my last set on eBay. So far so good.

Old Aluminum Vs. New Steel
 
#35 ·
++1

Another advantage to doing the 16T first and early - is that after many miles, when the 16/46 combo is worn out and you are ready for a new set of sprockets and chain, you only need to buy one sprocket, not two! Assuming you have low mileage on your stock 15T (and you put it somewhere where you can find it again), you just need to buy a 44T rear, and use your stock 15T. The ratios: 46/16 is 2.88 ; 44/15 is 2.93 ; stock 46/15 is 3.07 :)
 
#33 ·
2 weeks ago I put on a 16T JT steel front, and a 46T Supersprox steer rear.
City commuting is soooo nice now. 1st gear is actually usable with engine braking.
Bike feels a lot smoother to ride and a lot less rushed racing through the gears like with the stock 15/46.
So I'm about +2(52)@50km/hr speedo indicated, +3@60, +4@70 + 5@80, +6@90 and +7@100 km/hr according to GPS but need more testing.
 
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