Burnt Stators - Page 9 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
Register Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Motorcycle EscrowInsurance
Go Back   Kawasaki Versys Forum > Kawasaki Versys Motorcycle Talk > Technical Discussion

 

Technical Discussion Topics related to Technical Issues

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #161  
Old 12-21-2012, 08:58 PM
Mountain Man Mountain Man is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 132
Default

OK, I finally received my Compufire R/R. Upon inspecting the wiring harness on it, I noticed that all wires are one to two gauges heavier than the harness on the bike.

Also the positive and negative wires are long enough to go around the solar system.

So this being the case, I'm inclined to completely bypass the bikes original loom, because the bikes wires prolly has much more impedance w/it's thinner AWG wires and connectors.

So I'll run both pos ans neg wires [as is, or shortened] up to the battery posts and use the supplied 40Amp fuse and holder.

For the 3 stator leads I'll use some of this to make a direct custom harness from the stator to the R/R.

[IMG][/IMG]


Can anyone here give me a reason why this would not work?

Clearly it won't be wired thru the starter relay or the 30 Amp fuse next to it.

This is how it was designed to be wired if you purchased the complete Compufire charging system.

Last edited by Mountain Man; 12-21-2012 at 09:49 PM.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #162  
Old 12-26-2012, 04:06 PM
onewizard onewizard is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 454
Default

Are you planning on taping up the old regulator plug? The alternator connection plug is supplied by some re-builders, like RM Stator, if you had that you could leave all the old wiring intact, and make a short 3 phase connection to the regulator from the alternator. I would bring the ground up to the frame ground by the cpu, I would also bring the positive up like you suggested, to a fuse holder, then the battery.

Too bad I didn't know about the regulator discharge current before I installed it, I would have brought the positive wire up with the ground ( both wires are just long enough to reach behind the CPU) and left the old wiring intact. I personally would still hook up a relay, but in your case to the positive.


Last edited by onewizard; 12-26-2012 at 04:10 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #163  
Old 12-26-2012, 07:20 PM
Mountain Man Mountain Man is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 132
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
Are you planning on taping up the old regulator plug? The alternator connection plug is supplied by some re-builders, like RM Stator, if you had that you could leave all the old wiring intact, and make a short 3 phase connection to the regulator from the alternator. I would bring the ground up to the frame ground by the cpu, I would also bring the positive up like you suggested, to a fuse holder, then the battery.

Too bad I didn't know about the regulator discharge current before I installed it, I would have brought the positive wire up with the ground ( both wires are just long enough to reach behind the CPU) and left the old wiring intact. I personally would still hook up a relay, but in your case to the positive.

Great Idea for the dead end plug. I'll try to get one ASAP.

I planned on using the three strand wire in the pic above to make the independent 3 phase stator loom. Each wire is the same 14 AWG as the 3 in the Weatherpack and it's wrapped in a flexible shield designed for harsh condition environments.

A buddy gave me a 1/2 doz of the the Weatherpack terminals and the small ribbed O-rings that will complete the Weatherpack supplied w/the R/R.

What concerns me is what will the consequence of bypassing the orig connection of the brown wire to the ign sw. and the pos wire to the starter relay.

I'm only assuming that their relationship is parallel. But I'm not very electrical savvy and have cold feet.

If you look at the head/taillight circuit ,you'll see where the the charging circuit interconnects also.

Can anyone here see any issues w/the way I plan on installing it ?

This thread on ADV also has raised my concern.....

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=850466

Last edited by Mountain Man; 12-26-2012 at 07:23 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #164  
Old 12-26-2012, 10:41 PM
onewizard onewizard is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 454
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Man View Post
Great Idea for the dead end plug. I'll try to get one ASAP.



What concerns me is what will the consequence of bypassing the orig connection of the brown wire to the ign sw. and the pos wire to the starter relay.

I'm only assuming that their relationship is parallel. But I'm not very electrical savvy and have cold feet.

If you look at the head/taillight circuit ,you'll see where the the charging circuit interconnects also.

Can anyone here see any issues w/the way I plan on installing it ?

This thread on ADV also has raised my concern.....

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=850466
I have a detailed write up earlier. Long story short, the brown wire is strictly to drive the electronics in the old regulator, basically a electronic main switch between the regulator and battery. The compufire eleiminates that wire, end result is the regulator is trying to charge your battery 24/7, and it doesn't know your motor is running unless you reach 14.2 VDC, that is when it kicks in. BTW your OEM positive wire is live all the time at the regulator.

The old system the regulator produced VDC to a 30 amp main fuse, this fuse then was connected to the fuse block distribution. The brown wire was live in the ignition key run position, this provided a small current to control output of the regulator, with it disconnected and the motor running, you would have a over-voltage situation.Also with the key off there would be no discharge current.

The compu-fire has a regulator current of .027 amps, if you use a battery tender don't worry about it, I am from the old school, I charge it once for six hours using a motorcycle 1 amp charger , once every 2 months in the winter, and installed a relay. Leaving the bike sit for two weeks with .027 amps will equal a dead battery.

The up side to your install is the only voltage drop will be the fuse to the battery, so you may see a slightly higher voltage at the battery than with my set up ( 0.1 to 0.15 VDC ), plus your main fuse will be a lot easier to get at. I would suggest you install a 30 amp fuse, the alternator will never put out 30 amp, however your wiring can't handle 40 amp if your regulator faults out, so you would burn up your wiring before the fuse ever blew .

BTW it is not a good idea to rewind the same stator more than once, stator loses magnetic properties and you can have hot spots from shorted laminations.Any questions feel free to ask.


One last note, the drawing on ADV shows the relay circuit for your headlight, light comes on after bike started using output from the alternator, once it starts producing AC the relay is latched in, basically you could stall the motor and the headlight would remain on. If you bypass the 3 phase wiring harness to the old regulator you will need to come up with a means of turning on your headlight.

I would suggest to make three taps just above the first connector from your alternator, these 3 phase connections would go to the new regulator ( plus the OEM harness), tape up the OEM plug that went to the old regulator, this way your headlight will be automatic .

Last edited by onewizard; 12-26-2012 at 11:03 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #165  
Old 12-26-2012, 11:05 PM
onewizard onewizard is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 454
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Man View Post
Great Idea for the dead end plug. I'll try to get one ASAP.


http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=850466
The plug I am referring to is the one on the end of the alternator stator.
Reply With Quote
  #166  
Old 12-27-2012, 06:49 AM
Mountain Man Mountain Man is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 132
Default

30 Amp fuse it is.

The drawing on the ADV thread is not for our Versys. I'm not sure what it belongs to. I hope I didn't lead you down a wrong path.

Can you put up a picture of our charging sys schematic?

I don't have the software to convert it to a pdf file and post it here.

BTW, I'm still confused.

Last edited by Mountain Man; 12-27-2012 at 07:11 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #167  
Old 12-27-2012, 08:16 PM
onewizard onewizard is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 454
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Man View Post
30 Amp fuse it is.

The drawing on the ADV thread is not for our Versys. I'm not sure what it belongs to. I hope I didn't lead you down a wrong path.

Can you put up a picture of our charging sys schematic?

I don't have the software to convert it to a pdf file and post it here.

BTW, I'm still confused.
Well I looked at the drawing and that drawing is essentially the Versys headlight relay circuit.

Not many will admit confusion.

I will try and break it down.

First, between the alternator and regulator there is actually a single tap in the original harness that picks off one of the three phases, this goes to the headlight relay through a blocking / rectification diode,then coil circuit of the headlight relay, it's only purpose is to pull on the headlight once the motor is running fast enough to produce 12 volts. Once the headlight comes on, there is a latch circuit from the 12 VDC battery, this keeps the headlight on even if you stalled the motor. So you have two choices, one is to go to the very end of the connector that goes to your old regulator and either cut the three wires that come from your alternator and attach them to your new regulator, or what I did, tap the three phase wires from the alternator to the new regulator ( the wire from the Compufire is just long enough to reach-----it is a challenge as the harness is very close to the rear brake switch)

Since I have already installed one and reviewed my install, this is what I would do if I replaced my bike with yours;

#1 take the side cover off located above the alternator, exposing the alternator 3 phase wire connector.
#2 strip about a 1/4 inch of insulation off each of the white wires in a staggered formation , then solder the three wires from the new regulator, tape with rubber tape or silicone seal caulking. An alternate method would be to use 10 gauge insulated but splices, wire from the alternator and wire from regulator in bottom of but splice, then double over the wire going to the connector, this end goes into top of but splice, do the same for all three----------if you knew which wire pulls on the headlight relay you would only need to do one wire ( I need to test this, what should happen is if you connected positive to one of the black 3 phase wires, the headlight relay should pull in, that is with the alternator stator disconnected-----I need to prove this-not tonight)
#3 run both positive and negative output wires their full length, connect negative to frame ground, positive to a 30 amp weatherproof fuse holder, from the fuse holder go direct to battery OR connect to 12 volt relay, from relay connect to battery. Use your tail light wire to drive the relay, connect other side of relay coil to existing frame ground.
#4 rubber tape original plug to old regulator----gives the option of connecting OEM regulator when you sell the bike

I guess if there is enough interest I could take some pictures and post them.

Attached Images
 

Last edited by onewizard; 12-27-2012 at 09:23 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #168  
Old 12-27-2012, 10:13 PM
Mountain Man Mountain Man is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 132
Default

Buy all means, post up pics and diagrams. I'd be grateful.

What would happen if the headlight relay tap was simply left out of the install?

I just received my rewound stator today. It came with enough wire length from the windings to possibly reach the R/R

Apx 18" length from the rubber grommet to the end.
Reply With Quote
  #169  
Old 12-29-2012, 08:08 PM
Mountain Man Mountain Man is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 132
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Man View Post
What would happen if the headlight relay tap was simply left out of the install?

I just received my rewound stator today. It came with enough wire length from the windings to possibly reach the R/R

Apx 18" length from the rubber grommet to the end.
Sorry for asking about the headlight relay tap. You were very clear in saying that if I bypassed it, I would need to find another means to energize my headlamp.

I'm now prolly going to use the original 3 wires from the stator to the new R/R Weatherpack as you did.


It was my plan to go to a larger AVG wire size and shorter path w/less connectors from the stator to the 3 terminal plug on the Compufire R/R to decrease resistance, but now I found this thread on ADV and might abandon the idea.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=97

The issue comes up on page 6 and ends on page 7 I think. I'd be interested in any comments.

What I'm taking from this is, since AC current travels w/ less resistance, it's pointless to bother making the path any easier. What confuses me is why would decreasing the resistance raise the temperature of the stator?

Please comment. I'd love a different explanation that I may understand better.
Reply With Quote
  #170  
Old 12-29-2012, 09:09 PM
onewizard onewizard is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 454
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Man View Post
Sorry for asking about the headlight relay tap. You were very clear in saying that if I bypassed it, I would need to find another means to energize my headlamp.

I'm now prolly going to use the original 3 wires from the stator to the new R/R Weatherpack as you did.


It was my plan to go to a larger AVG wire size and shorter path w/less connectors from the stator to the 3 terminal plug on the Compufire R/R to decrease resistance, but now I found this thread on ADV and might abandon the idea.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=97

ADV rider refers to OEM regulator-----I won't comment on the write up except to say some of the info is reversed and jumbled, i.e. refers to voltage when it should be current.

I need to know what you were planning to do as far as connecting to the new regulator 3 phase input from the rewound regulator, are you crimping / but splice / soldering or using a connector-------is there a connector on the rewound regulator?

Once I know what if anything is mounted on the stator wiring, I will then give you a very simple set up-------FYI I did a very difficult connection which I wouldn't do again, I spliced off the original harness ( 3 phase input and positive output) about 2 inches from the plug, only thing I brought up was the ground from the Compufire. When I was done I tywraped and taped everything, this was hard because the harness is on the brake pedal side but the regulator is on the opposite side, swing arm travel was possible to hit connection.

I will check into a solution for the headlight tomorrow ( I have a solution depending on your answer to the stator wiring), one other thing, do you have a motorcycle charger, and or 14 or 16 ga.wiring, 3 ft long?


Last edited by onewizard; 12-29-2012 at 09:12 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #171  
Old 12-29-2012, 10:59 PM
Mountain Man Mountain Man is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 132
Default

Quote:
ADV rider refers to OEM regulator-----I won't comment on the write up except to say some of the info is reversed and jumbled, i.e. refers to voltage when it should be current.
What I took from that ADV thread was because of how efficient AC travels there is no benefit or gain for me to bypass the original AC wiring. This would solve worrying about any issues of a headlight energizing feed. If in fact the poster [Joel Weisman] is correct. I don't have the knowledge to disprove him or agree.

How I go about moving forward on this install is pivotal on if this is true or not.

Last edited by Mountain Man; 12-29-2012 at 11:04 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #172  
Old 12-29-2012, 11:06 PM
onewizard onewizard is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 454
Default

Simple test to find headlight relay wire.

Unplug the connector from the stator, about 18 inches from stator, the male end that continues into the main harness, is your test point.

I used my cheap 1 amp motorcycle charger, connect the negative to frame ground , use a short piece of copper wire in the positive alligator of my charger. Two methods, first with no ignition key, if you look at the male plug, one spade is 90' from the other two, going clockwise from the 90' one, the very next spade terminal is my headlight wire. To prove it, touch this one with the positive from the charger, you will hear a click of the relay and also see a very light spark. Next step is to put the key in and turn key to run position, starting bike is NOT REQUIRED, touch same terminal same way and you will see headlight come on and stay on.

Once I have the answer on your stator wiring I can then give you a solution.

As a suggestion, if you have the female plug from the stator, attached to the stator wires, I would suggest you strip insulation about 1 inch below plug, in a staggered formation ( wire #1 is one inch from plug; #2 is 2 inches and #3 is 3 inches from plug)---------- strip about a 1/2 inch of insulation from the end of your 3 conductor wire you showed previously, leave the wire about a foot or longer. Use three wire nuts , connect the 3 conductor wire to the Compufire 3 phase input wires.

Tape the connections up out of the way and out of sight, this will give you the best connection, cheapest, and easily taken apart for testing. If you decide to go back to OEM, cut the splices off the harness plug and tape, then plug in the original plug to the regulator.

As before, the positive and ground should be brought up and do not shorten wire, your call if you use a relay or switch .

Reply With Quote
  #173  
Old 12-29-2012, 11:25 PM
onewizard onewizard is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 454
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Man View Post
What I took from that ADV thread was because of how efficient AC travels there is no benefit or gain for me to bypass the original AC wiring. This would solve worrying about any issues of a headlight energizing feed. If in fact the poster [Joel Weisman] is correct. I don't have the knowledge to disprove him or agree.

How I go about moving forward on this install is pivotal on if this is true or not.
I am trying to explain the simplest and most reliable install for you, I can tell you, the shortest path and the least connections is the most reliable. If I sold my bike and bought a second Versys, along with another Compufire regulator, I would wire it exactly as I said in post # 172. It would have cut my install time in half, plus I wouldn't have needed to worry if the heat sink touched the frame, as I am switching the ground through a relay, since I cut the mile long positive wire and spliced it into the harness, so only way to stop the .027 ma. drain was to switch the ground wire when the bike was parked.

FYI the wire from compufire is 150'C motor lead wire, superior to anything on the Versys, were possible do not shorten or substitute .

It is a lot easier to debug someone elses work, than to start from scratch. That is what is great about this forum.

If you are worried about ADV rider, like I said, I don't want to comment other than to say it doesn't apply to Compufire, it relates to shunt type regulators.

I considered making my own regulator, I am too busy to get involved with something I can buy off the shelf. If you have any doubt, just PM me.

Last edited by onewizard; 12-30-2012 at 01:23 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #174  
Old 12-30-2012, 06:34 PM
Andreas56's Avatar
Andreas56 Andreas56 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Reynella Heights - Adelaide South Australia
Posts: 100
Default re: Stator failure

Hi there fellow Versysians..... firstly Happy New Year to you all.... I had a stator failure about 10 months ago.... no kinda warning than the starter working slower over a 2 week period - went for a 190 mile country ride (to the township where I grew up back in the early days) and when we stopped the first time all okay, 2nd okay, 3rd okay, then the 4th stop (in the actual township itself)a slight hiccup and then the 5th time no show... battery just died (actually at the Cemetary we stopped to look at - God's honour!) errrr no one around (midday and some 1.5 miles from the township - called Price on Yorke Penisula South Australia)

My friend Lidia, she rang the RAA to get a battery jump (told - needed to wait some 45mins) and just after the call a 4X4 came by (amazing!!! at that time of day on this isolated dirt road - maybe a good Movie plot here - lol) flagged him down and got a jump start and we headed straight back to Adelaide, pronto - bought a new battery ( battery that died in the bike then was orginal - 2008 model bike then with 22ks) and thought that was it - wrong! battery started to loose omfph after 5 days of going to work each day and then checked the system and found the stator was not producing. Bought a new Stator from the States (as it was cheaper by miles!!!) than getting one from Kawasaki ($480 my price, as daughter Sian works there!) and now all is well.... however what I have done now is fitted a voltage regulator (off eBay - being a led globe that runs through 3 colours - red @10V - orange@12V and green@13.5V showing the voltage output) and putting a switch on the dash I can ckeck on occassions where the output is at... worth all the effort. (I put a switch on the voltage indicator because it can get annoying with the colours changing when at idle to full running - if the photo comes out you can see the indicator down on the right side and the switch up on the top left side of the dash - the other switch is for the headlight and soon I'll be fitting a pair of driving lights too... also on the handle bars are 2 drink holders that you'll notice as I use a flip helmet and these work great!!!)

I took the orginal Stator to a local MC Sparky near where I live and he noted that 2 coils were burnt out and one of then was the actual starting coil - he could rebuild mine for $300 - but will do if this if the one from the States dies... he said it was just one of those things... only thing I noticed with the new Stator is that the headlight flairs when from idle to revs... used to it now but not at the time as I had now encured that before... well all the best agian.... thanks regards and Catchya Andreas


(foot note - I recharged up my orginal battery - thought I'd see how it goes - it's still in there today now @ 24.5ks)
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	SDC10741.jpg
Views:	79
Size:	64.5 KB
ID:	16508   Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010030.jpg
Views:	64
Size:	73.7 KB
ID:	16509  

Last edited by Andreas56; 12-30-2012 at 06:37 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #175  
Old 12-30-2012, 06:44 PM
Andreas56's Avatar
Andreas56 Andreas56 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Reynella Heights - Adelaide South Australia
Posts: 100
Default re: stator failure photos

Sorry - don't know why the photos didn't come through - so here I'll try again..
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	SDC10741.jpg
Views:	60
Size:	64.5 KB
ID:	16510   Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010030.jpg
Views:	57
Size:	73.7 KB
ID:	16511  
Reply With Quote
  #176  
Old 12-30-2012, 06:58 PM
onewizard onewizard is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 454
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andreas56 View Post
Hi there fellow Versysians..... firstly Happy New Year to you all....
I took the orginal Stator to a local MC Sparky near where I live and he noted that 2 coils were burnt out and one of then was the actual starting coil - he could rebuild mine for $300 - but will do if this if the one from the States dies... he said it was just one of those things... only thing I noticed with the new Stator is that the headlight flairs when from idle to revs... used to it now but not at the time as I had now encured that before... well all the best agian.... thanks regards and Catchya Andreas


(foot note - I recharged up my orginal battery - thought I'd see how it goes - it's still in there today now @ 24.5ks)
Couple things, have you tested the regulator according to the manual? Also not clear about your headlight, shouldn't be any difference from idle to full RPM. It is possible this stator has a different turns ratio, that is higher current at lower voltage, so at idle you may be @ 12 volts or less, with OEM regulator this would be good in that the regulator would be shunting current much less often. I have a Heads up voltage monitor, extremely accurate.

As to rewinding, it has been posted here before, http://www.rmstator.com/Categories.a...08&filter=true

They also post on eBay, shipping will cost almost as much as the stator, but you still save about $100, and this is new.They also post regulators new and used for a lot less, also a connector kit. Too bad shipping to Australia is so much.

Comment about starting coil????????? From what I can remember, the stator has 3 X 6 coils = total of 18 coils, connected in a Y or star 3 phase configuration.

Reply With Quote
  #177  
Old 01-02-2013, 06:28 AM
Mountain Man Mountain Man is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 132
Default

Well I had a little bit of time to work on the bike yesterday. I installed the rewound stator, and filled the crankcase w/oil/filter.

I mounted the Compufire on the modified adapter plate that I made a few weeks back.

But here's the rub...........

I mounted it reversed 180 deg so the wires face outboard. This changed everthing. And considering that I'm bypassing the original wiring harness it made even more sense.

Now the 3 AC stator leads reach the R/R leads w/length to spare and instead of cramped access, all the connections are right there near the starter relay and main fuse. The're now out of the way of a moving shock and rear wheel w/the mud and water that would otherwise bombard the wires/connections.

Using a small battery charger as Wizzard suggested, I found the tap to the headlight relay in the
[now capped connector that used to join the stator leads to the OEM harness.
I ran a short extension from it, to the area where the AC wires will splice. I cut the Weatherpack connector off because a direct splice is better than a friction splice. Besides I have enough wire to be able to change these parts out w/o running out of length.

I had to go to the Inlaw's for pork n kraut New Year's dinner so the rest of the install w/have to wait till I get the chance to get back to it.

I feel pretty good about the install, and would not of w/o the coaching from onewizzard, Olegeezer, Invader, and others one this forum and others.
I thank you for your guidance.

When I get a chance I'll take some pics and post them.

Last edited by Mountain Man; 01-02-2013 at 06:32 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #178  
Old 01-02-2013, 04:16 PM
onewizard onewizard is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 454
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Man View Post
Now the 3 AC stator leads reach the R/R leads w/length to spare and instead of cramped access, all the connections are right there near the starter relay and main fuse. The're now out of the way of a moving shock and rear wheel w/the mud and water that would otherwise bombard the wires/connections.

Using a small battery charger as Wizzard suggested, I found the tap to the headlight relay in the
[now capped connector that used to join the stator leads to the OEM harness.
I ran a short extension from it, to the area where the AC wires will splice. I cut the Weatherpack connector
off because a direct splice is better than a friction splice. Besides I have enough wire to be able to change these parts out w/o running out of length.

I had to go to the Inlaw's for pork n kraut New Year's dinner so the rest of the install w/have to wait till I get the chance to get back to it.

I feel pretty good about the install, and would not of w/o the coaching from onewizzard, Olegeezer, Invader, and others one this forum and others.
I thank you for your guidance.

When I get a chance I'll take some pics and post them.
Not sure if I am understanding about cutting off the connector, but, if this is the one from the stator, and if you have a couple inches of wire on the connector, you could join all three together then run a single extension down to were you plan on splicing the stator wires, plug the other end back into the OEM harness, only one wire is active as far as the headlight goes, but the other two will go no where.

Like I said, it is a lot easier debugging someone elses work, excellent idea about turning the regulator, so the wire faces out? May need to wait for Pics.

As to splicing , to be honest, I would use Ideal wire nuts http://www.idealindustries.com/produ...on/twister.jsp, then tape them, this will allow a simple connection that is easily taken apart. If you are really concerned, first wrap all three with a light wrap of electrical tape, sticky side out, then take a small sandwich zip lock bag, pump a bit of silicone caulking into it , slide that over the joint , twist tie it, once cured you have a waterproof joint. To remove, take a utility knife, cut vertically, the whole assembly will come off ( electrical tape sticky out is to prevent silicone from sticking to wire connectors and wires)

Are you planning on using a relay?

Reply With Quote
  #179  
Old 01-03-2013, 05:51 AM
Andreas56's Avatar
Andreas56 Andreas56 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Reynella Heights - Adelaide South Australia
Posts: 100
Default

Hi there 'onewizard".... what my MC sparky said was the reason for the flairing was that in volume manufacturing when you by them from Internet sites etc.. what they use is a heavy guage wire to quickly make up the windings on each of the poles and it's cheaper to do and quicker to make hence the price to the customer... you'd think that the heavier guage is good - wrong! Carl said they use a much thinner guage copper wire so that they can get more windings on each of the poles (I think there are 5 or 6? around the unit) and when they soak them in the lacquer for a minium of 24 hours, it then creates a better soak and better quality product.... BETTA Bikes located here in Hackam (down south of the City of) Adelaide - South Australia and do most of the all Stator rewindings here in Australia for the Motorcycle dealerships for their customers... They have never had one ever fail or returned and guarantee them for the life of the bike! Carl said to me that if you think we Versysirians are kinda not happy.... they have done HEAPS from the Trium** Triples!!! (so their owners aren't too happy too!) they charge $300 to do up mine and if this one fails that I have now - I'll get it done by them.. just ashame I didn't know that they did them other than panicing and buying off the net because of the price my daughter quoted me..... thanks hope this helps somehow.... catchya.. Andreas
Reply With Quote
  #180  
Old 01-03-2013, 06:30 PM
onewizard onewizard is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 454
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andreas56 View Post
Hi there 'onewizard".... what my MC sparky said was the reason for the flairing was that in volume manufacturing when you by them from Internet sites etc.. what they use is a heavy guage wire to quickly make up the windings on each of the poles and it's cheaper to do and quicker to make hence the price to the customer... you'd think that the heavier guage is good - wrong! Carl said they use a much thinner guage copper wire so that they can get more windings on each of the poles (I think there are 5 or 6? around the unit) and when they soak them in the lacquer for a minium of 24 hours, it then creates a better soak and better quality product.... BETTA Bikes located here in Hackam (down south of the City of) Adelaide - South Australia and do most of the all Stator rewindings here in Australia for the Motorcycle dealerships for their customers... They have never had one ever fail or returned and guarantee them for the life of the bike! Carl said to me that if you think we Versysirians are kinda not happy.... they have done HEAPS from the Trium** Triples!!! (so their owners aren't too happy too!) they charge $300 to do up mine and if this one fails that I have now - I'll get it done by them.. just ashame I didn't know that they did them other than panicing and buying off the net because of the price my daughter quoted me..... thanks hope this helps somehow.... catchya.. Andreas
First, unless you know for sure that Kawasaki made a mistake in the number of turns, you don't increase or decrease the turns.

Next, the heavier the gauge the less resistance and less voltage drop = lost energy. You can use different temperature ratings of magnet wire, the higher the temp usually means thicker insulation. I prefer class H (180'C), and heavy , which is the coating thickness( around .0015 to .003 of a inch).

The next thing I use to do was preheat the finished stator, this removes any moisture trapped in the laminations, insulation etc., most rewind shops won't do this because it thins the dip and also cause the solvent to evaporate.

The more professional rewind shops have a vacuum dip tank, and my preference would be a epoxy dip, keep in mind you want the thinnest coat for heat transfer,and strongest coat to prevent the magnet wire from vibrating and breaking down.

A couple things happen when you increase wire size, one , with exactly the same number of turns, the outside turns are going to be further from the core. Second, you reach a point were there isn't enough room to get all the turns onto the pole piece.

You mention smaller wire size, what can be done is wind with as a example a equivalent to a single 10 gauge , would be two 14 gauge wires ( which would be harder than a 14 gauge), several problems come up with this method, say you had 20 turns of the 10 gauge, using the 14 gauge you will have 40 wires, and since you have 20 additional wires, you have added the insulation thickness of the 20, the second problem is when winding two in hand, there is a increased risk of cross overs between turns ( potential spots for shorted turns)
I said it before, if time permits I may try and find out what the output voltage is AC , compared to the actual DC current load and DC voltage output voltage.


As to how long it soaks, isn't as important as how it is wound. I use to preheat for 1 hour at 200'F, then dip it and soak for 1 hour in epoxy varnish, take it out and let it drip for 10 minutes then bake it for I think 6 hours--------been a long time about 35 years, they have some really good magnet wire available now.

$300 , are they saying once they do it , that it will never fail?
Bottom line, were you live it costs almost as much to ship as it does to rewind, so local is good.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


Advertisements
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:02 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Motorcycle News, Videos and Reviews
Honda Grom Forum Harley Davidson Forum Honda 600RR Kawasaki Forum Yamaha R6 Forum Yamaha FZ-09 Forum
1199 Panigale Forum Roadglide Forum Honda CBR1000 Forum Vulcan Forum Yamaha R1 Forum Yamaha R3 Forum
Ducati Monster Forum Harley Forums Honda CBR250R Forum ZX10R Forum Star Raider Forum Yamaha Viking Forum
Suzuki GSXR Forum V-Rod Forums Honda Shadow Forum Kawasaki Motorcycle Forum Star Warrior Forum KTM Duke 390 Forum
SV650 Forum BMW S1000RR Forum Honda Fury Forum Kawasaki Versys Forum Drag Racing Forum Ducati 899 Panigale Forum
Suzuki V-Strom BMW K1600 Triumph Forum Victory Forums Sportbikes BMW NineT Forum
Volusia Forum BMW F800 Forum Triumph 675 Forum MV Agusta Forum HD Street Forum Suzuki GW250 Forum
Yamaha Motorcycles Victory Gunner Forum Honda Vultus Forum HD LiveWire Forum Ninja H2 Forum Ducati Scrambler Forum