I remember reading an interview where the guy who invented teflon said it was unstable after about 380 degrees, which is why you wont find a teflon pan in my house....
The clutch cable breaks at the nipple that engages the lever because without adequate lubrication, the nipple binds in the lever and doesn't swivel properly. This flexes the cable back and forth and fatigues it to the point of breakage. It needs to be lubricated with waterproof grease. I use just a dab of wheel bearing grease. Anything less just won't work well. I've done this for many years. It used to be common knowledge.
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10 Duc Streetfighter S (black)
09 Versys
00 KLR
67 Triumph Bonneville TT Special
USN 1959-65
The clutch cable breaks at the nipple that engages the lever because without adequate lubrication, the nipple binds in the lever and doesn't swivel properly. This flexes the cable back and forth and fatigues it to the point of breakage. It needs to be lubricated with waterproof grease. I use just a dab of wheel bearing grease. Anything less just won't work well. I've done this for many years. It used to be common knowledge.
You might be right... So far, I have used the blue teflon and WD40 and they don't seem to last long... Around 200 miles or so, the nipple binds thingy needed to be lubed again or it start making rubbing noises... Just lubed again tonight with teflon blue stuff since I only got that and WD40.
I will try on my other grease stuff soon...
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Current bike
09 Kawasaki Versys
42,000 on bike and my cable broke on the way to work.Also I'll have to replace the handle as it too has given out.Had to order both as thsy don't seem to be a stock item here in Phoenix. I couldn't understand why "all of a sudden "my cable starts fraying without giving me any problems.Thanks for the thread,this cable will be greased,lubed and annointed with oil for longer life.The cables seem to last a year and this is my 3rd year.
42,000 on bike and my cable broke on the way to work.Also I'll have to replace the handle as it too has given out.Had to order both as thsy don't seem to be a stock item here in Phoenix. I couldn't understand why "all of a sudden "my cable starts fraying without giving me any problems.Thanks for the thread,this cable will be greased,lubed and annointed with oil for longer life.The cables seem to last a year and this is my 3rd year.
You might want to see that the cable nipple rotates freely in the lever before you install it. What I do is use chain lube on that nipple, and hit it just a little when I lube the chain.
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10 Duc Streetfighter S (black)
09 Versys
00 KLR
67 Triumph Bonneville TT Special
USN 1959-65
I think the idea is to use a light lubricant like WD40 or similars... some lub that repels water and dirt from inside the housing.
Lubs with wax are not good because the wax is dry inside the housing and will not let it run freely, inside... you know what I mean?
Same feeling as the throttle cables (remember to lubricate it too... both)
TTPETE and others Thanx. Another point that may be a no brainer to most is to not leave the cable adjuster slots(by the lever)pointing up. Rain gets in.
Slot pointing down after adjustments are made is better.
I have my spare clutch cable already routed and zip tied to the operational cable. In the event of a snap I will be back in business in no time. As for the brake cable... It's not a show stopper and gets a lot less wear and tear that the clutch cable. I don't have a ready-to-go backup for that one.
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GeneHil - Panama City, FL
2011 Kawasaki Versys
Viet Nam: Dec67-Dec68 & Jul69-Dec72