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Chain/driveline noise

19K views 47 replies 16 participants last post by  weljo2001 
#1 ·
Hi all,

'08 V w/23kmi daily driver.

Was wondering if anyone had any ideas, suggestions or experience with this sort of thing:

After a chain adjustment, I was hearing a pulsating whirr whirr whirr noise coming from what seems like the chain...seems like it was coming from the area closer to the front sprocket.

Now, it's always been loud to the point that a riding buddy has commented a few times and I've heard the sound bouncing off Jersey walls and what not but this was a different sound. Anyway, I had it replaced and adjusted - everything was perfect for a while (about 2k mi) til I started hearing the noise again and when I checked it, it seemed a little tight so I took it back to the shop and had them adjust it. They agreed it was tight and adjusted it. Again, everything seemed fine.

Well, recently, I checked the slack and it was way loose...about 2" or more. I spent yesterday afternoon adjusting and aligning it myself (using the motionpro tool, btw) and it seems when I'm at 1" I get the noise. I only really hear it on decel with clutch pulled (don't know if that's indicative or if I can only hear it w/o engine noise). Right now I'm dead on at 1" and perfectly aligned and I hear it. I don't want to adjust it out much because I'm worried about it loosening up too much again.

I'm torquing to 80 ft/lb, BTW.

Questions:
-Is it supposed to sound that way?
-If not, any ideas/experience with this?
-Could there be a problem with the front sprocket (it doesn't look bad)
-Could it be the plastic guide things on the swingarm and, if so, is that bad?
Could it be bad bearings? i don't know what bad bearings on a bike sound like.

Any help would be appreciated.

I have audio of the sound if someone really wants to hear it but I'd have to edit it down a little.
 
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#2 ·
Hello there.
I wonder if you replaced both chain and sprockets,or only chain?
My experience with the Versys is that the rear axle adjustment is very tricky lets say.The sound means that you have Orbital eccentricity on the sprockets and/or a bend chain because of this phenomenon.If you replaced only the chain the problematic sprockets would effect the chain in a short period of time.
If you have also changed the front to 16 teeth then the sound could be from there cause there is very little room for the chain to roll with 16t and a small eccentricity would be noticed there first.The real problem starts if you have eccentricity on the front sprockets axle...Thats my opinion on the matter
 
#3 ·
naz,

Thanks for the quick reply. The sprockets are the original and both appear to be in good shape (judging by the teeth, I mean).

I'm glad you said it's tricky because I was hoping it wasn't just me that had trouble with it. Maybe I should go ahead and replace the sprockets to be sure.

That said, it seems like when I'm rolling at 20mph and hear the sound, it would be pulsating faster than it currently is (if it's a warped/bent sprocket, it seems like it would go through a full rotation faster than the sound pulsates...*seems like it).

I'll also note here that I don't really hear the noise below 15mph whether it just gets too quiet for me to hear or it goes away, IDK.
 
#4 ·
If you roll at 35mph you wont listen anything again...lets say that 20mph is the rpm of the sprocket for a 1st order resonance .I had the same issue on my bike ,i am very heavy with the throttle i push it too much,sometimes i feel that versys should have a 525 chain.A misalignment on the rear would warp something for sure ,the engines torque is serious and the overall bikes geometry is very tight ,too tight to forgive some misalignment here and there...Dont let it continue cause probably you wont get the same mileage with your new chain.
 
#5 ·
I like a little looser chain: 1.25" of slack. Also, I place my 09 V on a rear stand, rotate the rear wheel, forward motion, and make sure the rear sprocket stays in the center of the chain. If the sprocket is misaligned, the chain will migrate to one side or the other.

With the adjustments as noted, the rear wheel will spin very freely.
 
#6 ·
23kmiles seems like a lot of miles on the sprockets.

I changed my sprockets at 18kmiles and the front definitely had some wear (it wasn't bad), but it definitely resulting in periodic vibrations in the bike coming from the front sprocket. Since changing the chain and both sprockets things are smoother.

I have no idea if this will solve you problem but I do think that the sprockets will not necessarily last through the life of another chain (unless they actively help destroy it).

:goodluck:
 
#14 ·
"Big Red" has 38,000 miles on the ORIGINAL chain, SECOND front sprocket, and rear sprocket removed and reversed at 31,800 miles. I ONLY use WD40 on it, as lubricant and cleaner, and have adjusted the chain adjusters 2 1/2 turns in that mileage (15 'flats').

:)
I agree with SCOTTYNEAL...1" is too tight...when you compress the rear susp. with your weight, the chain will be much tighter

I prefer 1 1/4 to 1 1/2

RCF
Manual says 1" to 1.4", and when you add weight to your bike (YOU...) it DOES tighten, but will NOT overtighten IF it was correctly adjusted.

That is WHY Kawi specifies the range of 1 to 1.4".
:clap:
 
#8 ·
Thanks a ton guys. I'll go ahead and replace the sprockets and keep the chain a little on the looser side. Great to have people with experience on these matters chiming in when you're at your wits end and can't decide what to besides blindly throwing money at the problem.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Your front sprocket is worn and your chain needs replacement. It is normal to have to do this around 23,000 miles. If you raise the rear and spin the rear tire you will notice a very slight change in resistance once per chain revolution. I had the same issue and it went away when I replaced both. Also check your rear sprocket for wear and replace at the same time. The front sprocket always wears as fast or faster than the chain.

In my experience it is worth it to buy a rivet tool and do this yourself as it is relatively easy and the tool will last a lifetime even though you may may only use it every few years. It is better than paying a dealer $100+ to do this for you. Suggest Stockton tool set from CycleGear for the money (currently on sale for 1/2 price), lots of how to videos on you tube.

http://www.cyclegear.com/eng/product/chain_breaker_and_rivet_tool_kit/web1006916

15/46 are the stock sprocket sizes with a 520 series chain, chain slack should be 3.0 to 3.5cm from max down to max up mid point in the chain

http://sprocketcenter.com/index.php...ring-chain-kawasaki-kle-650-versys-07-12.html
 
#18 ·
I agree, Freddie is an outlier on his extraordinary chain life. He also gets much better fuel economy than I do. Draw your own conclusions on that.
I would replace the chain & sprockets as a set and order the rivet link too. Be warned that breaking loose the nut on the front sprocket has been a major source of frustration for many Versys owners. Read up on it and decide if you want to tackle it or take it too the shop.
 
#19 ·
...I would replace the chain & sprockets as a set and order the rivet link too. Be warned that breaking loose the nut on the front sprocket has been a major source of frustration for many Versys owners. Read up on it and decide if you want to tackle it or take it too the shop.
Thanks for the tips. I've read a little on the topic on this forum - I'm gonna break it myself.
 
#23 ·
Just ordered F/R sprockets and chain from sprocketcenter. I'm sticking with stock 15/46 since this is my first time swapping sprockets and I want to make sure I know how it's supposed to drive on a stock, known-good configuration before I start messing around with different gearing.

I have a long breaker and some cheater pipe ready for that front nut.

Another question: I've never heard of rotating the sprocket...is that something a lot of people do or is it just for those of us who are...let's say...frugal?
 
#24 ·
JAnother question: I've never heard of rotating the sprocket...is that something a lot of people do or is it just for those of us who are...let's say...frugal?
The only people I have ever heard of doing it (given my limited experience) is fasteddiecopeman and the guy at watt-man who makes Thermo-Bobs. They seem to be knowledgeable fellows. Still, I figured that a new front sprocket is not really splurging on the bike. Then again, I pull perfectly good looking plugs out every 7500 miles and put in new ones because the book says to.
 
#25 ·
...Another question: I've never heard of rotating the sprocket...is that something a lot of people do or is it just for those of us who are...let's say...frugal?
The only people I have ever heard of doing it (given my limited experience) is fasteddiecopeman and the guy at watt-man who makes Thermo-Bobs. They seem to be knowledgeable fellows. Still, I figured that a new front sprocket is not really splurging on the bike. Then again, I pull perfectly good looking plugs out every 7500 miles and put in new ones because the book says to.
Bill and I ONLY rotate the REAR sprocket - we remove, replace, then CHUCK the old front sprocket!

Guess we MIGHT be frugal, but, on the other hand, we BOTH get exceptional mileage from our chains and sprockets....

Don't forget that your "OWNERS MANUAL" gives a wear limit on the chain, and it is 323 mm (12.7") over 20 'pins' and details how to go about measuring it. Both Bill and I lube our chains (with WD40...) more often then the average rider does with whatever he uses.

:clap:
 
#28 · (Edited)
After trashing a chain, I found 1" slack to be not enough for me.

I adjusted the chain by the book. Set my suspension to lightest and had a fat ass sit on the bike. Chain was too tight.

Now I set the slack to 1.4" and adjust the rear wheel so the chain wonders back and forth on the sprocket with the wheel in the air.

Set YOUR bike as you wish.

RED 11 V, 12,000 miles.

David
 
#31 ·
I know the thread has kind of veered off but...

I finally got around to this last night. I replaced f/r sprockets with stock sizes and a new RK chain from sprocketcenter.com on recommendation from user twowheels. It was a great choice, btw - I highly recommend them.

I broke the 3.8mm pin due to stupid but was able to use the smaller pin to break the chain.

From what I can tell from a few minutes testing in the sub-freezing weather last night, noise appears to be gone, shifting seems more crisp, etc. Feels great.

I appreciate the help from everyone. Good bunch of guys here.:cheers:

edit: I also set the chain at about 1.4 and plan to watch it carefully for a few weeks (if I'm able to ride much) to find the right slack for my heft.
 
#32 ·
Your chain will be at its TIGHTEST when the rear axle, swingarm pivot bolt and countershaft are DIRECTLY in line. The 1 to 1.4" slack is the amount you'll be able to measure when your V is on its stand and the three shafts are NOT in line, with a "little extra" thrown in by Ma Kawasaki, for good effect, so it does NOT get overtight as the suspension runs thru its 'cycle' as you ride.

Your weight does NOT effect that at all, EXCEPT to change how much slack the chain has when you sit on it, and THAT is why it is specified that you check chain-slack when the bike is on its stand, not with someone on it.
:exactly:
 
#39 ·
Rear suspension would have to be compressed by about 3" as measured at rear axle, from its fully extended position. Maybe with spring preload backed off and with heavy guy sitting on passenger seat... Rear suspension should be unladen and completely extended (not compressed) for accurate chain tension measurements under consistent conditions... Adjusting chain tension within specs with rear suspension compressed will result in excessive slack.

Check chain tension at its tightest position. Find tightest position by rotating rear wheel. Measure and adjust chain tension with rear suspension fully extended.
 
#46 ·
Whirr sounds with new DID gold (outsides) Stock Pro chain & Sunstar oem sprockets

From reading this it looks like he did not adjust the full 1.4 inches at the tightest spot. It was not greased throughly either.

When him and the manager came and told me it wasn't a continuous chain link, I asked him if he knew what direction to put the link in. So he may have gotten an attitude and sabotaged my adjustment too tight.

I hope riding it 50 miles did not screw my gd chain up. I wish I had my centerstand already put on, but I'll be back at motohelmets tomorrow! $70 labor seemed like a good deal in need, but not that good of a deal I guess.
 
#47 · (Edited)
Motohelmets helped me out and loosened my chain after they had me sit on it while readjusting, and said they would adjust my chain again later when it breaks in. It may be a hair loose now, but it is not 'whirring': which meant it could have eat up my completely new drive train.

I'm going to get them to put on my HB crashbars and centerstand: since they are an integrated assembly and I can't work on mine (efficiently) until i get my centerstand. Moto helmets does have a $30 new tire install (ON the bike!), and I always make them use Rocky Mountain ATV tires so I know I also have the low National price and fresh tire rubber since they are so cheap. If you live near Fullerton, CA, they are the Tire discount service for motorcycle riders :)
 
#48 ·
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