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  #1  
Old 10-01-2012, 10:29 AM
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Default Help with Clutch Cable

So I'm having problems with my clutch cable and I'm turning to you guys for help. My clutch lever has too much play in it. I can push and pull it quite a bit without it engaging my clutch. It's almost as if the cable is too long. I'm sure there is some simple way of fixing it, but I'm not a gearhead (I say that in a good way, not an insult).

I can adjust the cable near the lever to remove most of this slack but that leaves the small adjustment knob on it's last thread and I'm afraid that it's going to snap off.

Is there a way to adjust my lever so the top adjustment knob has more room for.. adjusting?

Here is a photo of what I mean.

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Old 10-01-2012, 10:40 AM
toofer toofer is offline
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Have you looked near the clutch to see if the cable has an adjustment there near the clutch also? I suspect there may be one down by the clutch. If not, you may need a new cable as it is stretched too much with age or wear.
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  #3  
Old 10-01-2012, 10:51 AM
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x

Last edited by AzItLies; 10-23-2012 at 12:56 PM.
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  #4  
Old 10-01-2012, 12:23 PM
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If I were to adjust it in to where there are only a few threads showing I would have to pull the clutch all the way to the grips before it started to engage.

And I just now have a little over 2000 miles on this bike that I bought new with zero miles on it 2.5 months ago.
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  #5  
Old 10-01-2012, 12:39 PM
hawkbox hawkbox is offline
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There is another adjustment nut down near the engine that you can twist to adjust this length as well. I don't have a picture handy but it's pretty obvious when you look at it. I had to tinker with it when I replaced the cable on my girlfriends Versys.
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  #6  
Old 10-01-2012, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zatx View Post
If I were to adjust it in to where there are only a few threads showing I would have to pull the clutch all the way to the grips before it started to engage....
I think you mean "disengage"...? From the factory BOTH my Vs came with the clutch adjusted so that the disengage-point was just IN from where the lever is at rest (furthest from the grip). Set like that, when you pull the lever right to the grip, you are STRETCHING the cable (once the clutch is disengaged), and there are several threads from guys who've had early cable failures where the 'ferule' that goes into the lever pulls right off, and I BELIEVE that's a DIRECT result of the cables being miss-adjusted.

I've adjusted mine (and those for quite a few others) so that the disengage point is quite a LOT closer to the grip. That way, should you need to 'slip' your clutch in some situation (trying to get unstuck...) it's much easier to do while maintaining a good hold on the grip. IF you overdid what I'm saying (closer to the bars), your clutch would NOT disengage - PERIOD, while if you overdid the factory setting (further from the bars) your clutch would NOT engage!

Just went out to my shop and took a couple of pics for you, AND measured the distance between the clutch lever and its pivot = .292" (that's the gap to the right of where you adjust the cable near the lever, in my picture). I KNOW that is different from what the manual says, however my '09 has 21,000 kms on it, my '08 has 37,000 MILES, both on the original cables (tho' I carry a spare on each bike). AND neither clutch has ever 'slipped' on me!

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Ed

My KLR trip to Alaska, YT, NWT and BC in summer 2009
http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=69383

My Versys trip to D2D 2013, and Alaska, June '13
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ad.php?t=33153
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  #7  
Old 10-02-2012, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
I think you mean "disengage"...? From the factory BOTH my Vs came with the clutch adjusted so that the disengage-point was just IN from where the lever is at rest (furthest from the grip). Set like that, when you pull the lever right to the grip, you are STRETCHING the cable (once the clutch is disengaged), and there are several threads from guys who've had early cable failures where the 'ferule' that goes into the lever pulls right off, and I BELIEVE that's a DIRECT result of the cables being miss-adjusted.

I've adjusted mine (and those for quite a few others) so that the disengage point is quite a LOT closer to the grip. That way, should you need to 'slip' your clutch in some situation (trying to get unstuck...) it's much easier to do while maintaining a good hold on the grip. IF you overdid what I'm saying (closer to the bars), your clutch would NOT disengage - PERIOD, while if you overdid the factory setting (further from the bars) your clutch would NOT engage!

Just went out to my shop and took a couple of pics for you, AND measured the distance between the clutch lever and its pivot = .292" (that's the gap to the right of where you adjust the cable near the lever, in my picture). I KNOW that is different from what the manual says, however my '09 has 21,000 kms on it, my '08 has 37,000 MILES, both on the original cables (tho' I carry a spare on each bike). AND neither clutch has ever 'slipped' on me!

Yes.. this is the setup I want. What I don't know how to do is make this adjustment that you speak of. I'd like my pic to line up with yours.
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  #8  
Old 10-02-2012, 08:01 AM
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You just need to take up the slack at middle of clutch cable. The adjuster on the back of valve cover, beside throttle cam.

•Pull the clutch lever just enough to take up the free play
•Measure the gap between the lever and the lever holder. If the gap is too wide, the clutch may not release fully. If the gap is too narrow, the clutch may not engage fully. In either case, adjust it.

Clutch Lever Free Play
Standard: 2 ∼ 3 mm (0.08 ∼ 0.12 in.)

WARNING
To avoid a serious burn, never touch the engine or exhaust pipe during clutch adjustment.

•Turn the adjuster (at hand lever) so that 5 ∼ 6 mm (0.20 ∼ 0.24 in.) of threads are visible.
•Open the clamp (securing middle of clutch cable to engine).
•Slide the dust cover at the middle of the clutch cable out of place.
•Loosen the locknut at the middle of clutch cable.
•Turn the adjusting nut until the free play is correct.

WARNING
Be sure that the outer cable end at the clutch lever is fully seated in the adjuster at the clutch lever, or it could slip into place later, creating enough cable play to prevent clutch disengagement (possible explanation to your scenario).

•After the adjustment, tighten the locknut and start the engine and check that the clutch does not slip and that it releases properly.

Last edited by invader; 10-02-2012 at 08:09 AM.
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  #9  
Old 10-02-2012, 08:45 AM
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While you're at it, shoot a little lube down the cable from the lever... my cable gets sticky at this point if I don't do this every couple of months. Might help the early cable fraying that some owners report.
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  #10  
Old 10-02-2012, 10:16 AM
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Listen to hawbox and invader.

If the cable gets sticky inside the housing, you'll end up with what feels like too much free play, but it will be difficult to adjust. This is what happened to me, because I:
a) didn't lube the cable often enough, even though I park it outside at work, during the fifth-wettest Jan-Sept period on record in South Florida;
and b) lubed it with chain wax. Uh, don't lube a clutch cable with wax.

New clutch cable from PowerSportsPlus.com costs $18.10 plus shipping, part no. 54011-0082.
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Last edited by Holden; 10-02-2012 at 10:20 AM.
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  #11  
Old 10-02-2012, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zatx View Post
Yes.. this is the setup I want. What I don't know how to do is make this adjustment that you speak of. I'd like my pic to line up with yours.
1. turn the adjuster BACK IN till you have 2 or 3 threads showing;
2. start the engine, pull IN the clutch lever and put your V in 1st gear;
3. SLOWLY let the lever OUT till your V starts to move, then pull the clutch back IN noting how far the engagement point was from your grip and select Neutral. If the engagement point's TOO close to the grip, turn the adjuster OUT another turn and do 1. to 3. again, till you like what you've achieved, then;
4. go ride it and enjoy the ride!

Once your engage point is closer to the bars I believe you'll feel better ( & safer) starting from traffic lights, etc.

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My KLR trip to Alaska, YT, NWT and BC in summer 2009
http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=69383

My Versys trip to D2D 2013, and Alaska, June '13
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ad.php?t=33153
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  #12  
Old 10-02-2012, 02:01 PM
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Thanks guys. I'll tackle this tonight.
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  #13  
Old 11-17-2012, 01:14 PM
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Default clutch cable routing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zatx View Post
Thanks guys. I'll tackle this tonight.
I would recommend you look at rerouting your cable. Seems most have a cable binding from the factory. I have my V apart for a valve check and I'm putting a new cable on it. My cable was binding, not moving very easily inside the cable sheathing. I am going to reroute and make my old cable into a spare, assuming I can get it lubed and freed up? And it has been a PITA learning how to get the old cable off, but maybe its just my lack of mechanical skills.
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  #14  
Old 11-27-2012, 03:44 PM
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easy now i have a hard time with peaple calling my V a chick bike, but i still love her.
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  #15  
Old 01-03-2013, 05:58 AM
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Hey there Bud... your cable is coming to the end of it's life... change it soon as I had started to get frayed cables and could've broken at any given time but I'll tell you this - when I fitted a new cable BOY! I was riding a new bike again! I felt a huge change as the lever was now working like it should instead of dragging all that extra (stretched) length.... hope this helps.. thanks Catchya Andreas

ps... changed cable @ 22.5ks

Last edited by Andreas56; 01-03-2013 at 06:00 AM.
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  #16  
Old 01-22-2013, 08:23 AM
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Sorry I never came back to update this thread.

I ordered a new clutch cable but never installed it as I fixed the problem while waiting for the new one to arrive.

It seemed odd to me that this cable would be worn out since the bike was new so I figured there had to be something else going on. The bike was new (zero miles) when I bought it, but it was a 2011 that had been sitting on a showroom floor.

I played around with the adjustments at the top and bottom of the cable to get it where I wanted it, but still felt like I had too much play or slack as evidenced by the clutch lever having too much travel when fully released.

I took some Dupont Chainsaver (in the liquid bottle) that I had laying around and put a bunch of it down through the cable. Worked the clutch a bunch of times and.... viola!

Problem fixed.

Apparently the cable was in serious need of lubrication from sitting around for 2 years.

Problem solved and I now have an extra clutch cable.
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  #17  
Old 01-22-2013, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zatx View Post
Sorry I never came back to update this thread.

I ordered a new clutch cable but never installed it as I fixed the problem while waiting for the new one to arrive....

Problem fixed.

Apparently the cable was in serious need of lubrication from sitting around for 2 years.

Problem solved and I now have an extra clutch cable.
I carry my extra clutch cable under my seat like this:
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Ed

My KLR trip to Alaska, YT, NWT and BC in summer 2009
http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=69383

My Versys trip to D2D 2013, and Alaska, June '13
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ad.php?t=33153
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  #18  
Old 03-27-2013, 12:18 PM
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Default Clutch Cable Blues

I am on my third clutch cable with on 21,000 miles. I don't buy the aggressive riding style crap the dealer is telling me. They are just a POS as I have lube and cared the two prior to this one. I have been waiting for two years for an after market unit......
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  #19  
Old 03-27-2013, 05:32 PM
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I keep an extra clutch cable on hand for all my bikes. Not a lot of money to spend, I think I have less that $35.00 for both, for one of the easily repairable thing that can stop you from riding. I just hang them on the garage wall until needed. OR on the KLR when I go on a trip I zip tie the extra cable to the one on the bike after duct taping the ends to keep junk out. Makes it a quick change out on the road.

And 3 in 1 oil does a great job of lubing them up. I dribble a few drops down the cable when I change oil and filter on the bikes.
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Last edited by Time; 03-27-2013 at 05:41 PM.
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  #20  
Old 03-27-2013, 07:51 PM
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I installed a Magura hydraulic clutch kit on the V.
IMHO one of the best upgrades I did.
No cable to adjust or lube and excellent clutch modulation.
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