Burnt Stators

[ec90t]

Originally Posted by Mt. Versuvius

There's already enough alternator output to power that stuff, no need to replace the stator (unless it's pooched, of course).

I think there is enough to run the grips and a vest (along with my GPS and some auxillary lighting), but not a suit. I'm also a big believer in overkill. I like parts that work at less than 75% of capacity. They tend to last a really long time when they aren't working at near 100%.

[Mt. Versuvius]

With the shunt-type reg/rec, the alternator is working at 100% all the time anyway, but maybe you're planning on changing the RR too.

[ec90t]

Originally Posted by Mt. Versuvius

With the shunt-type reg/rec, the alternator is working at 100% all the time anyway, but maybe you're planning on changing the RR too.

Yeah, probably to a MOSFET design.

[invader]

Originally Posted by ec90t

Yeah, probably to a MOSFET design.

:::::

Originally Posted by invader

The MOSFET term gets thrown around a lot, in an imprecise way that may confuse a lot of people.

When sorting through all of this information, it's important to realize that the word MOSFET is not really that helpful in describing the regulator that the merchant is selling.

The term "MOSFET" describes a particular type of semiconductor -- a generic Metal-Oxide-Semiconductor Field-Effect Transistor. This kind of generic transistor can be found in all sorts of devices, including shunt regulators, series regulators, and switching regulators. From a practical standpoint, when a supplier is marketing their Vreg to you using the term MOSFET, their pitch doesn't really give you any useful information. You'd probably be best of ignoring the word MOSFET and looking at other details.

When sorting through all of this information, try to recognize the deceptive marketing practices of some of the merchants for what they are; Some suppliers are leveraging the word "MOSFET" to try to exploit the confusion that it will cause for many people.

"MOSFET" sounds fancy, and the expectation of some merchants is that using this term will make some potential customers think that their regulator is something more special than it really is. This is particularly true of Shindengen, who uses the term to try to put lipstick on that pig that is their shunt regulator. They try to use the word "MOSFET" to blur the distinction in the mind of the customer between their shunt regulator and a true series regulator, or a switching regulator.

Don't be fooled when a manufacturer hypes the word "MOSFET" in describing their shunt regulator -- they're hoping that someone who doesn't know any better will confuse their shunt regulator with a more desirable, more electronically sophisticated series regulator and buy their product.

You probably already realize from all of the posts on this forum that you want to avoid a shunt regulator at all costs, and buy a true series regulator. Be careful so that some merchants' don't pull the wool over your eyes when they tell you that their vreg uses MOSFET. What you really want to know is whether the design you're looking at is a shunt, series, or switching regulator.

[ec90t]

Pretty well versed on all that from my time spent on the stromtrooper site. There is quite a good write-up and thread about MOSFET regulators there.

[Mursili]

What invader was trying to point out was that a shunt-type MOSFET R/R makes little difference (it is believed) to the stator failures occurring on Versi. It is not whether the R/R is MOSFET or not, rather whether it is shunt-type or series that makes a difference. If you believe otherwise, it would be helpful if you would quote the important aspects of the post you refer to on another site and then we can discuss that.

[onewizard]

Originally Posted by ec90t

Pretty well versed on all that from my time spent on the stromtrooper site. There is quite a good write-up and thread about MOSFET regulators there.

I would second that suggestion, there has been considerable discussion, and the only series regulator available is compu fire. Mosfet is very meaningless, that's like saying it contains a IGBT.
BTW didn't get around to installing the compu fire regulator, I plan on measuring the OEM regulator 3 phase input and output under no load and full load. Also checking at 4 to 5000 rpm under the same conditions.

[onewizard]

Compu Fire

I just completed the install, I will give a more detailed report later, as this is our long weekend and it is predicted to be hot and sunny.

Couple quick comments; found a way to install new regulator leaving the OEM plug intact

OEM regulator at idle in 20'C / 70'F weather was @ 140'F

Biggest difference was when @ idle on a hot day, the fan would come on and the output would drop to 12 volts

New regulator, voltage is around 14.2 with the fan running

Because the people on this site have contributed to improving my ride and also saved me countless hours of looking, not to mention the fact that many have had their stator fail.The knowledge shared ,is basically saving me the hassle of going through the same grief.

So I intend to give back with a full report, including pictures and meter readings.

[olegeezer]

Good on ya 1wiz, looking forward 2 your report and pics. In particular, how you saved the OEM connector. I cut mine off. I've put 10k miles on my compufire with no issues yet and original stator.
Thanks,
OG

[RickySpanish]

Good info in this thread. How common are burned stators for the new gen bikes?

[Motopsycho]

Damn. Joined the stator club. 19021 miles

[olegeezer]

Originally Posted by Motopsycho

Damn. Joined the stator club. 19021 miles

Dang Motops, that does not look like a fun project. Thanks for reporting.
I just turned 20000 m on my Compufire R/R. If I lose my stator I will be sure to report it. (fingers crossed).

[acinonyx]

I also joined the "stator club" at about 19800 ('08 model). Sorry -- I don't have pictures handy at the moment. Ended up replacing the stator (from RM stator), the rectifier (one leg dead; got the new one from RM stator, also), and the rotor (OEM from babbits). Note: I highly, highly recommend the very expensive handle/gripper tool and the puller for the rotor replacement. Also, get an impact wrench.

While I was half-way there I checked the valve clearances. The intakes were technically within spec, but on the tighter side. The exhausts were out of spec (except 1) toward the tighter side. After swapping them all around (with the help of a ProX shim kit and my trusty caliper), I got them all to sit in their respective comfortable middle ranges. (Pay attention to the warning about the chain tensioner in the service manual during all this.)

I also noticed that the underside of the fuel tank was getting surface rust so I sanded it down and added several coats of primer and topcoat. (Not perfect, but better than rust.)

New spark plugs, air filter, battery, gaskets (head, alt cover, thermostat), radiator hoses, along with fresh oil and water/antifreeze, and she is all but rebuilt!

The bike now runs but I still have two final projects. First, the decelerator cable has a few broken strands, so I'm going to replace that. The engine also has been getting "lopier" (is that a word?) along with rougher over the miles. (I also noticed the air switching valves were working properly but one looked much cleaner than the other -- not sure if this is related or even an issue.) I'm going to sync the throttle bodies when I get the chance.

Maybe I should have just bought a new bike?

[onewizard]

Originally Posted by acinonyx

I also joined the "stator club" at about 19800 ('08 model). Sorry -- I don't have pictures handy at the moment. Ended up replacing the stator (from RM stator), the rectifier (one leg dead; got the new one from RM stator, also), and the rotor (OEM from babbits). Note: I highly, highly recommend the very expensive handle/gripper tool and the puller for the rotor replacement. Also, get an impact wrench.

While I was half-way there I checked the valve clearances. The intakes were technically within spec, but on the tighter side. The exhausts were out of spec (except 1) toward the tighter side. After swapping them all around (with the help of a ProX shim kit and my trusty caliper), I got them all to sit in their respective comfortable middle ranges. (Pay attention to the warning about the chain tensioner in the service manual during all this.)

I also noticed that the underside of the fuel tank was getting surface rust so I sanded it down and added several coats of primer and topcoat. (Not perfect, but better than rust.)

New spark plugs, air filter, battery, gaskets (head, alt cover, thermostat), radiator hoses, along with fresh oil and water/antifreeze, and she is all but rebuilt!

The bike now runs but I still have two final projects. First, the decelerator cable has a few broken strands, so I'm going to replace that. The engine also has been getting "lopier" (is that a word?) along with rougher over the miles. (I also noticed the air switching valves were working properly but one looked much cleaner than the other -- not sure if this is related or even an issue.) I'm going to sync the throttle bodies when I get the chance.

Maybe I should have just bought a new bike?

Let me know what you think of RM, also some pictures would be good______________just recently acknowledged they could supply for Versys

[invader]

http://www.rmstator.com/en/2008/OEM-...RM01041-1.aspx

[acinonyx]

Originally Posted by onewizard

Let me know what you think of RM, also some pictures would be good______________just recently acknowledged they could supply for Versys

So far I'm quite impressed with RM Stator. It's direct OEM replacement stuff, not an upgrade, but much cheaper than OEM. Only issue (for me) is they are in Canada and so there was a surcharge, but all-in-all still less than 60% of OEM pricing. They also include the other connector end if you need to (or want to) replace it. I'll get some pictures when I get a chance to remove them from my phone.

[rrichard]

Would it be wise to swap out the oem r/r for a CompuFire as a hedge against stator failure?

[Boricua]

I'm here to join the club. LIttel under 19K miles. After replacing the OEM battery a week ago the second battery gave me a weak start this morning. Had enough joice to start and ride to the shop to check it out. Just as expected the stator is toast. Expensive repair. Worst part, today was a rare 80 degree day in late Oct in CO probably the last good weekend this year to ride in the mountains. Hopefully the bike will be back from the shop before the best roads get covered in snow and ice.

On the other hand A-Basin just opened for the season. Time to tune the skis and start hoping for good snow.

[Mountain Man]

Originally Posted by onewizard

Compu Fire

I just completed the install, I will give a more detailed report later, as this is our long weekend and it is predicted to be hot and sunny.

Couple quick comments; found a way to install new regulator leaving the OEM plug intact

OEM regulator at idle in 20'C / 70'F weather was @ 140'F

Biggest difference was when @ idle on a hot day, the fan would come on and the output would drop to 12 volts

New regulator, voltage is around 14.2 with the fan running

Because the people on this site have contributed to improving my ride and also saved me countless hours of looking, not to mention the fact that many have had their stator fail.The knowledge shared ,is basically saving me the hassle of going through the same grief.

So I intend to give back with a full report, including pictures and meter readings.

I can't find your wrench report w/pics........

[doctorbrody]

Stator burned out and left me by the side of the road at 24k miles. My buddy gave me a jump and it was enough to get home. Replaced it with a used 650R unit off eBay, and installed this clever voltage meter so I'll have some warning if it happens again.

http://signaldynamics.com/index.php/...id=44&vmcchk=1