Cap'n Kirks Givi V46NT LED Brake Light Install - Page 3 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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Modifications - Cosmetic Discuss aftermarket and Do-It-Yourself cosmetic modifications

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  #41  
Old 05-14-2012, 12:12 AM
filbert filbert is offline
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Oh, I just posted mine a little while ago! Should be in this same forum section. http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ad.php?t=19394
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  #42  
Old 05-14-2012, 09:36 AM
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BaileyMan BaileyMan is offline
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Nicely done!
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  #43  
Old 06-10-2012, 01:51 PM
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BaileyMan BaileyMan is offline
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Finally got around to getting some pics of my LED light install. Thanks Cap'n for blazing the trail...

I had some LED strips that I ordered from superbrightleds.com and never used. I don't know how thrilled I am about them, but they work. I think they are barely visible in daylight. Especially when riding into the sun, I can't imagine the car behind me would be able to see much in the way of turn signals or running lights with the glare. They're great at night though, and that's what I was really hoping for.

Running lights


Brake lights


Turn signals/running lights


I also used a small rubber grommet with some silicon glue for the wires entering the case. Not the best photo...


I really like having these extra lights. Knowing that I'm a little more visible to the cars behind me is comforting. I still don't trust them though...
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  #44  
Old 06-10-2012, 02:47 PM
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Capn Kirk Capn Kirk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaileyMan View Post
Finally got around to getting some pics of my LED light install. Thanks Cap'n for blazing the trail...
Lookin good!
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  #45  
Old 11-23-2012, 09:44 PM
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bobgong bobgong is offline
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Default I also wired my V46

First, a big thanks to Cap'n Kirk for his original write-up on this process.

My build, for the most part, is the same but with a few differences. I used Superbright LEDs, an audio barrel connector for the quick disconnect, a single 330ohm resistor, and a different relay with similar specs. I also cut and soldered the amber strips the same way as Cap'n Kirk, to make the strip bend around the case, but I lined the leds up with the red ones below. The leds were also moved closer the the center as well. I think it looks a little better and neater that way. The third strip of center brake/running leds was not used.

I am a bit worried about the disconnect not being weatherproof, but in hot/dry Arizona it should be okay. We'll see next year during monsoon season. I did put silicone on the outside and in the hole drilled in the case as well as dielectric grease on the inside to keep moisture out and make it easier to remove.

I left the connections inside the case document compartment with wirenuts so I can make easy changes if need be. All other connections were soldered. The spade connectors you see used on the turn signal were temporary to test the circuits.

Components:
The LEDs are WFLS-R60-BK and WFLS-A30-BK red and amber strips from Superbright.
330ohm resistor, R40-11D2-12 relay, and microphone/audio 4-pin barrel connectors, and 4 conductor cable came from Fry's.
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  #46  
Old 11-24-2012, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobgong View Post
First, a big thanks to Cap'n Kirk for his original write-up on this process.

My build, for the most part, is the same but with a few differences....
Looks like a solid and well done install. Thanks for posting!
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  #47  
Old 08-24-2014, 10:28 PM
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Default Help!

Last night both my regular tail light and Givi LED lights were completely out (no running lights or brake lights). I found a loose connection at my resistor and replaced it. Still not working properly. The relay was working kind of sporadically and then I ended up blowing the tail light fuse as I was wiggling wires around to find the culprit. I replaced the fuse and I tried to replace the relay. I wired everything up to the new relay (identical to the previous one) as it was before it went out last night but still couldn't get it to switch when applying either the front or rear brake (it is possible that I had the ground and positive switched on the relay, I'll cop to that). I checked every single connection multiple times. In the end I accidentally figured out that if I bypass the relay and connect all three wires that go to pins 1-2 (running light), 3-4 (brake light) and 5-6, the running light and brake light work as desired on both the tail light and the Givi LED light.

Any reason not to keep it this way? Does the relay provide some additional protection I'm ignorant about? Any ideas on the why the relay wouldn't switch?

It's been trouble free for more than 2 years...

Thanks for the help!
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  #48  
Old 08-25-2014, 05:27 AM
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Capn Kirk Capn Kirk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaileyMan View Post
Last night both my regular tail light and Givi LED lights were completely out (no running lights or brake lights). I found a loose connection at my resistor and replaced it. Still not working properly. The relay was working kind of sporadically and then I ended up blowing the tail light fuse as I was wiggling wires around to find the culprit. I replaced the fuse and I tried to replace the relay. I wired everything up to the new relay (identical to the previous one) as it was before it went out last night but still couldn't get it to switch when applying either the front or rear brake (it is possible that I had the ground and positive switched on the relay, I'll cop to that). I checked every single connection multiple times. In the end I accidentally figured out that if I bypass the relay and connect all three wires that go to pins 1-2 (running light), 3-4 (brake light) and 5-6, the running light and brake light work as desired on both the tail light and the Givi LED light.

Any reason not to keep it this way? Does the relay provide some additional protection I'm ignorant about? Any ideas on the why the relay wouldn't switch?

It's been trouble free for more than 2 years...

Thanks for the help!
I just looked at my schematic again for the first time since I did this modification. The relay does not provide any "protection" as a fuse would. In theory, if you hook up your "brake" 12V+ (non-resistor) on the case side of the current limiting resistors, is should work without the relay. I tried this at first and it did not work for me, (maybe its the Backoff XP) hence the relay I put in place.

Without closely examining your entire hookup with a meter, I would be hard pressed to give you any advice on what to do. If you have it working and you are not blowing any fuses, you seem to be good to go.

Glad you got it patched up and running again!!
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  #49  
Old 08-25-2014, 09:55 AM
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Thanks Cap!

I'll keep it as is unless I start blowing fuses. It's not pretty under there, but it works...
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