New Vacuum Hose Mod - Page 18

Motopreserve · #**341** 11-14-2012, 09:45 PM

I do remember reading that Scotty. I have a couple pairs of long needle nose that would be perfect for the job.

I guess I'm just waiting to see if someone comes back and tells me to go back to stock

I guess worst case - I could give it a shot as is, because at one point, the method I used was considered the best one. I'd like to hear if invader felt that tying the two bodies together with stock IAP hose performs better. Seems like he had tried them all.

invader · #**342** 11-14-2012, 10:51 PM

Configuration #1 with the simple 6" long, 5/32" vacuum hose is the one and only which will give you the best results... I had edited my 1st post in this thread in Sept 2009, with detailed explanation. I could now add my good photo.

stlee29 · #**343** 11-15-2012, 04:04 AM

Configuration 1 works well. Also, no need to remove the tank.
Start by putting in the right TB nipple and connect it to the left one with a long nose pliers. U could use your fingers too if the engine is cold (easier and less prone to burns).

Thanks to Invader.

Motopreserve · #**344** 11-15-2012, 06:09 AM

Thanks guys. I will swap out the setup today (for the configuration below) when I get to the garage. Appreciate the clarification.

Scott

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...andvac007.jpg/

ryde4ever · #**345** 04-24-2013, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ryde4ever

I finally tried this. I just used a loop of vacuum hose between the 2 capped vacuum outlets. Made use of a long skinny,medical clamp
that we use to get fish hooks out of the dumb fish that swallow the hooks. It fit through the tight spots to grab the rubber caps.
It doesn't make a big difference but it is a difference that you will notice.
I really notice it on lower speed, residential turns when trying to figure out if you need 1st or 2nd.
The throttle response isn't so on or off. It allows smoother riding at slow speeds.
I also notice there is less on/off, driveline lash at higher speeds. It does seem to feel like there is less engine braking.
I wonder if it allows a touch of "trailing throttle" so that the trottle doesn't cut quite as much gas flow when backing off.
Just guessing.
Oh yeah, and it will now idle along in first gear. It wouldn't do that before.

I kept meaning to update this. After a few months of this change, I realized that something was missing. My bike no longer had the edgy, instant throttle response that I liked. I changed it back to the stock setup and am much happier with it. Now if my allergies don't make me dizzy and spacey all summer like last year, maybe I'll get to enjoy it this year!

duffyduck1 · #**346** 04-25-2013, 12:20 AM

Fine, the goal for everyone must be to try and try to find his proper best riding setup

fasteddiecopeman · #**347** 04-30-2013, 05:26 PM

My '09 has been running 'funny' for awhile, kind of 'rough', but smoothing-out as revs climbed, so I went thru this WHOLE thread (ALL 18 pages), reading ALL posts, yesterday.

Early in its life I did the T-mod, with the IAP hose T-ed to the right vacuum fitting on the right T-B and the left on the left T-B (I had capped the right fitting on the left T-B), so it's been like that for three years.

After reading the posts (thanks all, but especially Invader), I decided to change to using a 6" hose connecting the right fitting, right T-B, with the RIGHT fitting, left T-B, then returning the IAP hose to the left fitting, left T-B.

Today I went for about a 50 mile run with thoughts of having a T-B synch done IF it still ran 'rough', but it feels TRANSFORMED! It ran smoothly, certainly with more-than-adequate power. Seems you guys have solved MY problem!

Murph · #**348** 05-01-2013, 03:05 PM

So, could someone post a picture (I'm a visual type) of the current approved method for this? I've read through most of the thread, and it seems most have either gone back to the stock setup or have settled on something other than the one described in the original post?

MTS · #**349** 05-01-2013, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by invader

Configuration #1 with the simple 6" long, 5/32" vacuum hose is the one and only which will give you the best results... I had edited my 1st post in this thread in Sept 2009, with detailed explanation. I could now add my good photo.

I think invader is talking about just the 6inch hose between the two. There is a photo of it. Yes alot of changing around for sure.

Interesting,but I would never do it as I love the low end tork, herky jerky as they call it!

invader · #**350** 05-01-2013, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Murph

So, could someone post a picture (I'm a visual type) of the current approved method for this? I've read through most of the thread, and it seems most have either gone back to the stock setup or have settled on something other than the one described in the original post?

The best and most simple configuration #1, with a single 6" (15 cm) long 1/8 or 5/32" (3mm) ID vacuum hose on both TB vacuum ports. Leave the left outer IAP hose alone, and forget about using a T:

fasteddiecopeman · #**351** 05-02-2013, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by invader

The best and most simple configuration #1, with a single 6" (15 cm) long 1/8 or 5/32" (3mm) ID vacuum hose on both TB vacuum ports. Leave the left outer IAP hose alone, and forget about using a T:

EXACTLY what I've (NOW) done.

Lours_Polaire · #**352** 05-03-2013, 08:54 AM

To resume and maybe conclude those 18 pages of post, can we consider that the previous 2 post ARE THE SOLUTION ?!?

LOP

fasteddiecopeman · #**353** 05-03-2013, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lours_Polaire

To resume and maybe conclude those 18 pages of post, can we consider that the previous 2 post ARE THE SOLUTION ?!?

LOP

For ME...? Yes.

Zatx · #**354** 05-04-2013, 01:18 PM

I just want to thank Invader and others that have worked on this. Today I took a set of 11inch needle nose pliers, 6 inches of vacuum tube, and 3 minutes of time, and did this modification.

There was no need to remove the fuel tank or fairings.

I'm amazed how much smoother my 11 V was. Why on earth doesn't Kawasaki do this straight from theffactory?

fasteddiecopeman · #**355** 05-04-2013, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zatx

...Why on earth doesn't Kawasaki do this straight from the factory?

Apparently they DO. One of the posts (among those 18 pages...) shows the newer Vs with that set-up.

Zatx · #**356** 05-20-2013, 07:14 AM

So for the cost of .10 worth of vacuum hose (which I got for free anyway), and 3 minutes of my time, my fuel mileage has gone up nearly 7 miles per gallon!

This was an amazingly easy mod that has paid off tremendously!

My fuel consumption has always been horrible on this bike. I come no where near what others are seeing. Typically I'm in the 37mpg range. With this mod, and an upcoming throttle bottle synch, I should be closing in on 50mpg.

Bill2 · #**357** Today, 02:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTS

I think invader is talking about just the 6inch hose between the two. There is a photo of it. Yes alot of changing around for sure.

Interesting,but I would never do it as I love the low end tork, herky jerky as they call it!

You still have the same torque after the mod just the driveability is way better. In fact if you do the TB voltage adjustment at the same time you even gain a little extra torque! Try it, it's like night and day!!!