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Engine Flush - Good Idea or Not??

13K views 20 replies 17 participants last post by  kiwitourer 
#1 ·
Morning,

About to perform an oil change on the V. last time I did this, the oil was black almost immediately. My local garage reckons this is due to sludge and crap that didnt come out during the oil change. He recommended using an oil flush. Something like this;

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/..._productId_157187_langId_-1_categoryId_255221

Is this a good idea, or could it do more harm than good?

Any suggestions are much appreciated!

Thanks,
Phil.
 
#4 ·
It sounds normal...there is a thread somewhere where folks talk about how quickly the oil changes color after a change. It's the detergent doing it's job. Change a bit more frequently and maybe do a flush once a year if it makes you feel better but as great as today's oils are it's probably not needed.
 
#6 ·
Have you thought of asking Kawi? They are really good to me an any questions. :thumb:

We had a strange overflow problem some of us had. They new about it and had the thing to do and what not to do. :goodluck:
 
#9 ·
My impressions on flushes are that they are 20W viscosity oil solvents that does a good job dissolving sludges and gunk from a poorly maintained engine. While it does dissolve and cleaning out gunk, dislodged chunks could block narrow oil passages leading to oil starvation on some parts of the engine. That's the risky part.

A lower risk alternative methods would be to use high detergency engine oil. I would use Mobil Delvac 15W40 diesel engine oil (or any HDEO with API CI-4) and run it for 500km or so, and then change it out to your regular oil and oil filter.
 
#11 ·
#14 · (Edited)
Motul's engine flush is the same for moto or car. Only the container is smaller... If ever using any engine flush, follow recommended dosage and procedure.

http://www.motul.com/ca/en-US/products/98?f[application]=143&f[range]=21

http://www.motul.com/ca/en-US/products/85?f[application]=143&f[range]=25

No real need for it with regular oil changes at every 3000~4000 miles with quality JASO MA oil... What does help is to allow more of the old oil to drain out, by turning the engine over a few turns by hand in 6th gear, leaning it over as much as possible for a while a few times on both sides, and giving it more time... I get about 1/4 quart more dirty oil out every time.
 
#15 ·
A couple of thoughts on an "engine oil flush."

A):huh: I'm curious as to why is your engine is "so dirty" with under 20K miles? I have close to 40K on mine and I change my oil and filter at 5K intervals (full syn Rotella 5W40W/with Fram extended guard-silver 7317 filter). The oil that comes out looks "used" but it still has a hint of "honey color" left and definitely does not look "dirty." Do you regularly change your oil while the bike is cold or do you get it up to operating temp before you drain the oil? Warming it up gets gunk/contaminants suspended in the oil and then they are carried out of the engine when the oil is dumped. Perhaps you (or the PO) are/have been changing the oil cold? Just a guess.... And, as has been mentioned, it's a good idea to drain the oil thoroughly, if you are not already. I let mine drain 15-20 minutes after it has forcefully stopped flowing out the drain hole, leaning it side to side, back and forth. I don't know, I usually get around 1/4 a quart out that way after it stopped flowing/dripping forcefully....

B) I have heard stories (no first hand experience, so take this for what it's worth) from car mechanics who are solidly against oil flush products. They claim that it jacks up the engine seals...that engines that "get flushed" soon develop leaks from valve covers, main seals, etc....

C) Have you considered a product like Marvel's Mystery Oil (I know Risolene makes a similar product)? It's a "leave in" oil additive that, among other things, is supposed to contain detergents that clean your engine's internals. I do have some personal experience here. A while back, I had an old truck (Ford Ranger) that at about 250,000 miles developed ticking lifters. I changed the oil and added a quart of MMO (4 qts oil, 1 qt MMO). About 500 miles after the oil change, the lifters stopped ticking.... You can get the stuff most anywhere that sells motor oil (even Wally World). I have used it in some high mile motorcycles as a "just for drill, preventative measure" in the past with no problems. With my V, I will add 1/2 a quart of MMO at my 50K oil change, again, "just for drill."

:goodluck:

:cheers:
 
#17 · (Edited)
Different oils are different colours too.. Motul 5100 is my choice for this bike and is dark straight out of the bottle. And looks darker still in the sight glass shortly after a filter and oil change.
When you say sludge do you mean the oil looks very black or it had bits like thick black custard skin or cottage cheese consistency coming out with the oil.
A bike that has sat for a long time ( ie more than 12 months) with old worn oil in the motor will go like that but if your bike is run fairly regularly then it shouldn't be like that.

Has yours sat un-used for a long time? Do you live in a frigid cold climate?

I wouldn't go putting anything but oil in there either.. if your not 1000% sure it won't ruin gaskets or rubber parts that it comes into contact with... don't put it in there.

For a bit of peace of mind do a complete oil change take it for a run then come back and drop the oil out into a clean pan and have a look what comes back out.
Any foreign stuff strain it out and either chuck back in the oil or put new stuff in if your really concerned that is has real gunk coming out in the oil.
If so I'd repeat the process until its clean.. You could use a fine wire strainer if you don't trust your peepers
 
#19 ·
 
#21 ·
Engine flush

As I have stated before automatic transmission fluid is great. Fine on seals and gaskets. Excellent cleaning properties. Use a rag with ATF on it to clean up spilled waste on on concrete. ATF has a viscoustiy of 20 so it's fine in a running engine. Really cleans out hydraulic lifters as well. ATF was my number one fix for hydraulic lifters if the owner did not want to replace them in their engine.:thumb:
 
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