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Chasing down an oil-leak in my '08

17K views 32 replies 15 participants last post by  angst 
#1 · (Edited)
I've been finding oil drops under my bike for the last few weeks. I removed the plastic lower guards to have a look. Lower area up to about 3/4 of the height of the water-pump area was wet, and oil was present underneath the sump, etc. Wiped it off and got sockets to check for anything loose. Everything was tight, so I tightened the oil filter a bit, and re-wiped it all down.

Today I figured to revisit the issue as more oil drops were showing up after rides, so off came the lower guards and I wiped everything down. As I tried to figure where it could be leaking from (and planning on removing the water pump and associated STUFF.... :mad: ), I guess I got an "electric light bulb" moment thinking how air-flows in that area while riding - MAYBE it IS the filter, and they're cheap, so off it came and on went a new one. (I use ST7317 filters from WalMart. They suggest to hand tighten till contact, then another 3/4 turn which is what I've always done, but I knew that Kawasaki mandates 13 ft. pounds of torque, so I got out my torque wrench, and set it.)

I hand tightened it till contact, then added the filter wrench and torque wrench - by the time I got the "click" at 13'/# I had turned the filter ANOTHER ONE AND THREE QUARTER TURNS, a total of 2 1/2 turns after contact! I ran it, topped up the oil, and we'll see what happens. Right now, an hour later, the area is still dry. :goodluck:

I'll add to this post once I see whether or not I've fixed the problem, and IF I have, this'll just be a "heads-up" for any others here. :clap:
 
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#2 ·
I will say that my Versys is the only vehicle of mine that gets a wrench applied to the oil filter. Kawasaki's torque spec is well tighter than the usual 3/4 turn after contact.
 
#4 ·
I do not remember that lubrication was part of the spec provided by ma Kawi. Of course such information is necessary to produce the desired load on the threads, but it is most often not provided in automotive contexts that I have seen. Perhaps I am wrong here.

I lightly oil the gasket (not the threads - although I somehow doubt that they are "clean and dry") and then I apply 13 ft-lb torque to the filter. So far it has worked for me.

I will point out that it is a statement from Invader that got me to stop torque wrenching my spark plugs and, instead, follow the torque instructions on the NGK box. Perhaps I am wrong about the way I torque my filters. I do it by turns on all of my four-wheeled conveyances.
 
#5 ·
I have been puzzled by the 13 FT LBS since day one and go crazy at the turn count every time I have done the oil change. I just performed oil change #8 a couple weeks and with lightly lubing the rubber seal I always have and never had a leak ever. The rubber seal starts to deflect.
 
#7 ·
I quit using a torque wrench and went back to counting turns after I had a filter that was so difficult to remove that I had to stab a large screwdriver through it to turn off. That was not on a V, but the principle is the same. And yes, I tried all the usual tricks, strap wrench etc before the violent stabbing! Using the 3/4 turn after contact has never been a problem, no leaks and the filter always seems tighter on removal than when originally tightened. The main reason we over- tighten oil filters is likely due to the mayhem we know will result if it were to back off while riding, not a pleasant scenario.
 
#8 ·
So far, since the torque-the-filter episode - NO drips. Previously, in ALL my cars, trucks, motorcycles, I've done whatever the filter manufacturer has said to do. Because of this "leak" (DEFINITELY NOT chain lube [WD40 in this case]) I'm trying 'Ma Kawasaki's' instructions, and YES I oiled the filter O-ring. Going riding tomorrow, so - we'll see. :goodluck:
 
#9 ·
Rode about 80 miles today, then checked for leaks when I got home: MOSTLY dry, especially near the filter, but a drop on the "M8" bolt just above and slightly behind the mid-point of the filter when viewing from the right side. In my Service Manual for the 2010 V, there's a diagram with it on page "CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-11", the diagram on upper right labelled on its bottom as 'G104353BS2 C', and it is the TOP bolt of the upper-left two marked B, the first one after the line of five "M6" bolts, ALL used to split the crankcase (with several others).

I'm leaning towards removing the bolt (which is definitely SNUG right now), and then adding a copper gasket OR gasket maker liquid to it, then re-torquing it.

Any thoughts? :huh: Especially from any of you who've had the cases split. :thanx:
 
#10 ·
IMO one should never exceed the vehicle manufacturer’s torque spec for the oil filter (to stay within the limits of the mounting bolts) but other than that, it is the oil filter manufacturer’s spec that should be used – because it is predicated on the specific oil filter’s gasket & its optimal compression.
.
 
#11 ·
I just went out and ran my finger over the (previously) wet/ oily areas. They are DRY! :thumb:

Can't (won't ;) ) go for a ride today - it RAINED this morning. What kinda crap is THAT...? :eek: This is ARIZONA...! :stickpoke:
 
#12 ·
On my recent Death Valley ride, thru a combination of factors I was able to figure out where the oil leak is - the water-pump housing area. I went to my local Kawi dealer and ordered a 33.2mm O-ring which the parts guy thought was the probable fix (Service Manual 4-10 to 4-12).

After changing out that O-ring yesterday, I put it all back together again, and had the SAME leak when I started it up, so today I removed my water-pump again and REALLY looked at the whole thing: on the "water pump housing" (a largely flat aluminum piece with a circular 'projection' on one side containing an oil seal) there's a small hole from around the seal area to where the 'weep' hole lets stuff leak out (in picture 1 the green 'arrow' points to the hole, while the 'circle' is around the seal), which leads me to believe that the oil seal has become faulty, and I'm ordering the related parts to FINALLY fix this leak (see picture 2)! If any of you have to go into your water-pump, my impeller was EXTREMELY difficult to remove, perhaps from 'rust' forming under it (see picture 3), so be fore-warned, and don't rush it and break something.

:goodluck:
 

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#14 ·
If everything is OK with the filter and gasket it should need hardly any torque to stay dry. There is a large rubber gasket on it to prevent leakage. Did you wet the gasket with oil before tightening as most filters prescribe? Is the surface the gasket seals against clean and flat?

I would guess it is not an issue with torque so much on the filter as perhaps a bad gasket on it if the filter is in fact at fault.

I have never had leaks and never had to tighten more than by hand. I have heard of over tightening causing leaks on a car though by distorting the soft rubber gasket on the filter.
 
#16 ·
I only torqued that filter IN CASE it was causing the leak - it wasn't, so I'm back to... contact PLUS 3/4 of a turn... and - yes - I wet the filter gasket with engine oil.

Hey Eddie! The only oil I ever had hit the ground was excess chain oil. It can collect in a funny stop and there is a thread on it! :eek: But maybe you got it? WD40 doesn't stick around.
No, but it DOES get onto the rear rim, so every now and then I get a clean rag, spray it with... (what else?)... WD40... and wipe it clean, which MIGHT last (the clean) for a day or two.
:cool:
 
#17 ·
Yesterday I got a parcel from BikeBandit - my new oil seals! Got busy and pulled the water pump out again, 'picked' out the old rubbed oil-seals, then drove out the mechanical seals, cleaned everything up, pushed or 'drove' in the NEW ones, put it all back together, refilled the antifreeze and started BIG RED. After running for about 10 minutes (till the fan cycled ON), NO OIL LEAK, so I shut 'er down and put the plastic back on.

I believe this is called a "Eureka moment".... :yeahsmile:

Pictures and descriptions follow:
1. draining antifreeze;
2. water-pump removed;
3. new parts (right) and the water-pump impeller (inverted);
4. rear of impeller - oil seal removed;
5. impeller seals - old left, new right;
6. old oil-seal on left, new on right (from the water pump housing in next picture);
7. water pump housing with oil seal and mechanical seal (from bottom side) removed;
8. water pump housing seals - old left, new right; and
9. engine running with NO SEEP!

:thumb:

:clap:

:p
 

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#21 ·
Thanks for posting this fasteddiecopeman!

I just noticed the same kind of oil leak on my bike this past weekend. I've got 45,000 miles on my '09.

I'm registered for a ten hour rally on Saturday. Is there any danger in putting an extra 500 miles on the bike in this condition?
 
#22 ·
Unless the oil is not dripping out at a steady rate, as in there is a puddle under the bike, you should be fine. Check oil level then check again at fuel stop.

By the way, one method I learned to find oil leak source on Brit bikes was to thoroughly clean the engine, let it dry and then squeeze talcum powder over the area surrounding the original leak. Start the engine and it won't be long before you see the leak.

Kind of like the joke about fat girls how to find the... never mind.;)
 
#23 ·
Just ride it on a dusty road. With or without the large lass on it. ;-)
 
#25 ·
Fasteddie,

I've got the same year of motorcycle, and the same problem that you've described.

It looks like its been about 3 months since you replaced the seals.

Has there been any reoccurance of the leaks?

If you're still good, I'll probably order the parts and replace my seals also.

Thanks in advance.

Monte
 
#27 ·
I must have misread the dates.

Good to know you got to the root of the issue.

I'm working on my now and am having trouble getting the impeller and housing off in order to get at the old seals.

In fact, I'm just rereading the posts to see if there was some hint I missed.

Monte
 
#29 ·
Fasteddie,

I looked again, still didn't see it.

BUT I did manage to get the impeller off earlier. I used a think stiff putty knife under the flange of the impeller a couple of times and that broke it free.

The rest of the work was fairly straitforward, except for the mechanical seal.

I eded up using my bench vise and an impact socket to press the old one out and the new one in. That was a tip I found on a Ninja forum.

There was one interesting issue, during reassembly, I heard a crack. My first thought was that I had striped a bolt, but soon found that my socket had broken! Guess Santa could bring me a new set of metric sockets.

I shure hope this does the trick!

Monte
 
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