Rather than fool around with finding the 16t dampened front sprocket I installed a 44t rear sprocket. A good rule of thumb is 1 tooth in the front equals 3 teeth in the rear. A 43t rear with the 15t front is nearly the same as a 16t front with the stock 46t rear. I just wanted a little bit less RPM at freeway speed but not to loose the snap of the stock gearing. It is exactly what I was looking for.

Got the Vortex VTX-452AK-44 sprocket and the RK RK-XW-520-001 chain at www.motosport.com.

Take a look.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x281/bicyclebob/100_0118.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x281/bicyclebob/100_0119.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x281/bicyclebob/100_0120.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x281/bicyclebob/100_0122.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x281/bicyclebob/100_0123.jpg

Is this a hard swap?
I may be interested in doing this as well, as it seems a lot easier to change out the rear sprocket than the front... correct me if I am wrong though.

If you choose not to replace the chain it is fairly simple.
Remove the rear wheel, remove the sprocket nuts, remove and replace the sprocket, torque the sprocket nuts and put the wheel back on.
If you replace the chain you will need a chain breaker and a rivet type master link tool. If you lack experience with working on chains I would recommend that you have that part done at a shop.
:mad:Busted chains are a big deal on the road!:mad:

will the stock chain fit fit with the new sprocket size? If so, what would be the benefit of changing the chain? I have less than 3k miles on the stock one.

At only 3k miles you would see little if any benefit. Typically you always change the sprocket and chain together, however your mileage is low enough that it is not necessary.

Is that the stock chain on your bike BicycleBob? Mine doesnt look like that.

love that chain man! that looks nice!:thumb::clap:

Nope. It's an RK XW-520 Gold. Just a good, strong, quiet chain.

Nope. It's an RK XW-520 Gold. Just a good, strong, quiet chain.


HHHMMMMMMM :rolleyes:

I was already planning on going 15/44 with my unused original 15 CS sprocket and an upgraded chain next year... That Vortex self-cleaning rear aluminum sprocket sure does look good, but they are more expensive and wear out faster than steel one. As mentioned by Vortex:
Q: WILL AN ALUMINUM SPROCKET LAST AS LONG AS MY STOCK STEEL SPROCKET?
A: Usually not. Aluminum is for high performance and the light weight compromises longevity. The biggest factor will be the quality and care of your chain; if it is worn or poorly maintained it will wear out your aluminum sprocket."

+1 Invader.

I just happen to be one of those anal retentive :eek: clean chain freaks and am willing to compromise some longentivity for the decrease in rotating mass.

For the record though this is the perfect gearing for this bike. Just enough to take the buzz out on the dreaded freeway and not effect the snappy response out in the fun stuff.

I would like to swap out chain and sprockets. I bought my V in Dec 07 and I have put 9400 miles on it. I would like a little more top speed. I know I know if you want speed go buy a crotch rocket but its sad when a mini van passes you while you are doing a buck ten.

I would like to swap out chain and sprockets. I bought my V in Dec 07 and I have put 9400 miles on it. I would like a little more top speed. I know I know if you want speed go buy a crotch rocket but its sad when a mini van passes you while you are doing a buck ten.


Sad?! Hell, what kind of mini van was it? Might have to get one of those...


:D:D:D

:) Maybe it was a 700+ HP 14000+ rpm 3.5 litre V10 Renault Espace F1 minivan...
I love the way that beast sounds:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZ4X4l56Q1w&feature=related

By the way, gearing change won't give you more top speed which is power limited. You just need more power, especially at higher revs to go faster.
I thought the Versys had a higher top speed after seeing some guy on YouTube top out at indicated 212 Km/hr (131 mph / ~ 120 actual) but he was going down some mountains... It does get bogged down with accessories like a larger windshield, handguards, crash guards, etc.
I'm heat insulating the airbox and swapping the inlets for larger ones, so I'll see what it'll do. I already have a Piper Cross air filter and have smooth matched TB flanges, vacuum hose mod, Muzzy header and slip-on, ignition timing advanced 5 degrees and 94 octane gas, synthetic oil... I might smooth match the exhaust port outlets as well.

Good idea on the rear sprocket. I bought a Renthal 44T sprocket but decided to return it when other forumites discovered the rubber-dampened 16T front sprocket. In retrospect, I think the rear sprocket change would have been better. I like the revised gearing, but it is just a teensy bit tall with the 16T front sprocket for some riding. Enjoy!

Invader,

Is it wrong to want a Minivan?

How about a little info on the timing advance.

Bob

The only minivan I dream of owning is Renault's F1 Espace, although it only gets 3.9 mpg (US) on race fuel...
Info on my ignition timing advance: http://forums.kawasakiversys.com/showthread.php?t=559

Ok so I am limited by power. How about a turbo let me guess if you want more power buy a crotch rocket sounds like I need a Ninja ZX-10R but I dont want to spend 10,000 plus dollars on one. I love my V I just wish it had a little more top end 150 is all I am looking for so 40 more mph. I like to ride a lot. I think that 9400 miles in 8 months considering that the whole month of May I was in Cali minus one V. Well I guess the morale of the story is stop my B****ing and be happy I can only crash doing 110 rather than 150. Bear on Bicycle I was wondering how many miles you have on your V?

oh by the way it was a Dodge Caravan I say it was a 2002. White with some old lady behind the wheel thats was the biggest insult seeing a old lady pass me :(

Bicycle Bob can you start a thread about the rear center stand. I would like a little info on the two spindles and the stand. Thank you.

Hudson here is the thread.

http://forums.kawasakiversys.com/showthread.php?t=983

That little van was killer!

When looking for a new rear sprocket, will any one fit or do we have to find one designed for the V?

It's pretty much model specific. Ninja 650R and ZX6R/ZX6RR (600/636) 2003+ also list the same applications.
http://sunstar-mc.com/searchresults.aspx?All=True&DD0=STREET&DD1=KAWASAKI&DD2=KLE650&DD3=2008
*Note: Sunstar does make the OEM steel 46T rear sprocket as well as an optional 40 and 43 (no 44), but not the front dampened one.
JT steel rear is only available in 38, 42, 43, 45 and 46. They do have an alloy 44 though: http://www.jtsprockets.com/52.0.html?&L=0&sel_uid=1097&p=

By the way, Bicyclebob: Is your new chain still a 114 link?

Yes it is. The new chain is sent with 120 links so you will have to shorten it.

can you put a 16T front sprocket on and like a 44T or 45T rear sprocket? What would that do?

I am just getting ready to buy a new Versys and was wondering why the need for the new sprockets? I have been checking this site and getting as much information as possible and I got the vibe that most were saying the bike does great at freeway speeds. So you guys are now saying it does not do so wellk? Is it maxing out at 75 - 80 mph? Others were saying it runs smooth at this speed and still has plenty left. Just sold my 08 KLR for this very reason so that is why I am concerned, i want to cruise down the highway at 75- 80 and not have the bike vibrating and the rpms so high is feels like she is about to blow!

oh by the way it was a Dodge Caravan I say it was a 2002. White with some old lady behind the wheel thats was the biggest insult seeing a old lady pass me :(


Haha...

A couple weeks ago I pulled up to a light next to a crappy looking Civic w/coffee can exhaust piloted by a teenager. I knew the kids would try and hang (they did) so I blew him away right off the light. Being the responsible parent I am I let off around 5mph over the speed limit. A few seconds later here comes the Civic flying by. I dropped the hammer, but I could tell I wasn't going to catch up :( , I backed off rather than risk getting a ticket. There are certain times when I do miss the FZ1. ;) Oh well. A quick twist of the wrist on a liter bike and you're well past triple digits in no time.

Once you've seen a buck fifty a few times it's no big deal. I'd like a few more ponies, but I'm not ready for another liter bike. The V is just too much fun, too comfortable, practical etc. I'd like to live to see at least 80 or so, the way I ride (lead wrist) I think it's for the best I'm on the V. :thumb:

Be safe out there!

I am just getting ready to buy a new Versys and was wondering why the need for the new sprockets? I have been checking this site and getting as much information as possible and I got the vibe that most were saying the bike does great at freeway speeds. So you guys are now saying it does not do so wellk? Is it maxing out at 75 - 80 mph? Others were saying it runs smooth at this speed and still has plenty left. Just sold my 08 KLR for this very reason so that is why I am concerned, i want to cruise down the highway at 75- 80 and not have the bike vibrating and the rpms so high is feels like she is about to blow!

You'll be fine. 80mph cruising is no sweat on the Versys. Even cruising at 90-100 is no problem. It will pull hard all the way to 90, after that it will continue to pull until about 115-120, but it does take a little while to get there. Just don't expect sport bike performance out of the V above 90mph. Below 80 it's quite quick. I feel the Versys has very little vibes. Less than my FZ1 which was an I-4, the opposite of what you'd think. I'm coming off a bike with twice the power of the Versys, and I'm totally happy with it 98% of the time. It will be a huge step of on the street compared to the KLR.

Luke

PS, I'm talking stock Versys. These guys are changing the sprockets to lower RPM at higher speed. I've cruised 80-90mph for half hour stretches at a time, no vibes and the bike doesn't complain at all. I want that low end grunt, which is why I'll leave the gearing stock (nothing wrong with changing the gearing to suit your wants/needs!). I like the look of gold anodized chains and aluminum sprockets. Those gold chains keep looking good for a long time too.

Luke

I feel you on the power thing Luke. The V handles superbly to me but there has got to be a way to stoke some real power out of that parallel twin. I'm talking a 90-100 horses worth. If the new VMax can generate 200 horses out of a V four, why cant we get 100 out of a twin? I'm thinking boring, porting, intake, exhaust, head work, the whole nine. What would Rob Muzzy do?

Change pistons and bump up compression? 1-800-Wiesco? Most of us seem to run Premium fuel any way.

That looks beautiful!

So do tell.... when tooling along at 60 mph, what RPM are you turning?

better yet what about at 70mph

5500 at 70. Luv it.

I am just getting ready to buy a new Versys and was wondering why the need for the new sprockets? I have been checking this site and getting as much information as possible and I got the vibe that most were saying the bike does great at freeway speeds. So you guys are now saying it does not do so wellk? Is it maxing out at 75 - 80 mph? Others were saying it runs smooth at this speed and still has plenty left. Just sold my 08 KLR for this very reason so that is why I am concerned, i want to cruise down the highway at 75- 80 and not have the bike vibrating and the rpms so high is feels like she is about to blow!

I went to the Versys from a KLR for the same reason ........there is no comparison. The twin is smooth and has grunt well past 80. You will love it compared to the KLR!!!!!!

After a few days of riding (including the MSF ERC) with the new sprocket, I can undoubtedly say it is the cat's meow. I had previously done the throttle-body vacuum mod, but reversed it as it took away power and throttle response. Going to the 44t rear sprocket, I gained a longer powerband, a lot less engine-braking, and it still has more than enough acceleration to keep me happy. It feels more natural now, though not tame. I tried to get the 16t front, but the Kawi part is out of stock everywhere.

The stock 15/46 is a ratio of 3.06, the 15/44 is 2.93, and the 16/46 is 2.875. That means for every wheel revolution, the engine transmission turns 3.06, 2.93, or 2.875 times. The 44t sprocket lowers rpm throughout the range, giving me right at 5500rpm at 75mph. Best mod I've done so far! I would not have been nearly as smooth doing the slow speed exercises of the ERC if I had not switched sprockets beforehand.

B-

Kimpex (http://www.kpx-kimpex.com/catalog.php?page=511&show=1) (Canada) lists "R.O.C." rear steel sprockets in 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46 and 47 tooth for only $30.99. (revised pricing-as listed for EX560-A Ninja 650R)
According to Kimpex: "ROC is our own sprockets and it’s made in China. (Republic Of China) There is no web site for those sprockets. We buy our sprocket from a company in China who makes sprockets for a lot of the OEM’s so the quality is very, very good. We have the 105329 (45T) in stock and our retail price is $30.99."

I'm getting a 45T rear (JT also makes it- JTR478.45) with a 15T front, which will give me about the same ratio as a 44T, with a slightly taller 150/70-17 rear tire instead of stock 160/60-17...

Just curious why the taller rear tire.:huh: Inquiring minds want to know!

There's a better choice of dual purpose tires in 150/70-17 size, such as Maxxis Presa Detour, Michelin Anakee 2, Metzeler Tourance and Tourance EXP, Continental TrailAttack and TKC80, Pirelli Scorpion Trail and Scorpion MT 90 S/T, Bridgestone Battle Wing BW502... 160/70-17 is available in Avon Distanzia supermoto and Pirelli MT60. The TW152 and Presa Detour 150/70-17 have an outer diameter of 642 mm, compared to 623 mm for an Avon Distanzia 160/70-17. Also, a taller tire won't ride quite as harshly on rough terrain.
I think I'll go for a Bridgestone Battle Wing BW502 150/70-17 rear, and an Avon Distanzia 120/70-17 front.

Invader, not to jack the thread-which I am. What dual sport tires are you using and which on the list you quoted do you use. I went from stock Flops to Conti Road Attacks, great on the road, but not so hot on gravel/forest roads etc-got a recommendation? Used to use Avon Gripsters on my KLR, went through about 3 sets, loved 'em.

Machog

I'm at 2600 miles and now stored for winter. I'm still on original tires which I grooved out with a tire grooving iron... I'm replacing them for when I get the V out again with the mentioned tires. Since your riding conditions and requirements sound about the same as mine, I can recommend trying the same tires which I haven't tried yet. You have the 16T C/S sprocket though, with which you'd be better with a 160/60-17 rear... So your choice is pretty much limited to Pirelli MT60 or Avon Distanzia.

Just to let you know, I'll go for an excellent Bridgestone BW502 150/70-17 rear with an Avon Distanzia 120/70-17 front instead...

I have BattleWings on the V-Strom (maybe had would be more correct, the rear is toast :() and I don't think they are significantly more dual sport than a Scorpion Sync. Why not go with a Distanzia in the rear too? An Anakee or Tourance (not EXP) would also make good dual sport and long mileage options.

What was this thread about, again? :p

Gustavo

I've just seen great reviews on the BW502 compared to Anakee, Tourance, etc. I considered the Anakee, now selling in Canada for nearly $400 plus taxes with the weakened Canadian dollar induced ~35% price increase, and the also pricey Tourance, and Distanzia rear. Scorpion Sync is a sport touring tire with shallower and narrower grooves... I like having a bit more grip in front on loose gravel and sand with the Distanzia, and I expect it to work good with a BW502 rear. I'll see how well the pair wears.
I can get both for under $400 Cdn, shipping and taxes included from: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AVON-AM43-DISTANZIA-120-70HR17-FRONT-TIRE-4966112_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713Q2em153Q2el 1262QQcategoryZ35601QQihZ005QQitemZ150295843694

Scorpion Sync is a sport touring tire with shallower and narrower grooves...

That was exactly my point - Pirelli Scorpion Sync, Conti Trail Attack, Bridgestone BattleWing, Tourance EXP, etc. - are all sport touring tires with deep rain grooves, not dual sport tires...

Gustavo

Soooo... What kind of chain & sprockets would you use with those tires???



:D:D:D:D

That was exactly my point - Pirelli Scorpion Sync, Conti Trail Attack, Bridgestone BattleWing, Tourance EXP, etc. - are all sport touring tires with deep rain grooves, not dual sport tires...

Gustavo

Like I said, Bridgestone's BW502 is a dual sport tire with deeper and wider grooves than Pirelli's sport touring Scorpion Sync.
http://www.motorcycle-karttires.com/tires.aspx?LookupID=3
http://www.pirellityre.com/web/catalog/moto/moto_catalogo_schedaDescription.page?categoria=/catalog/moto/street/sport_tou_radial&vehicleType=MOTO&product_id=1651&uri=/pirellityre/en_IT/browser/xml/catalog/moto/MOTO_MV_SCORPIONSYNC_HYP.xml


Soooo... What kind of chain & sprockets would you use with those tires???
Still 15/45 sprockets and a good 114 link chain with the taller 150/70-17, to give me a ratio close to with 15/44 and a 160/60-17 rear.

Bridgestone's BW502 is a dual sport tire with deeper and wider grooves than Pirelli's sport touring Scorpion Sync.

I'm not saying it's not a good tire. It is and is fairly popular with the big trailie crowd that doesn't venture off-road that much for a good reason. It's a good road tire. But I got the impression that that wasn't what you were looking for.

Forget the manufacturer's classification, it's meaningless in this case (not unlike Kawasaki putting the Versys in the Dual Sport category of it's line-up). If you really want a tire that works off road the BW502 isn't it. It's definitely a case of being penny wise and pound foolish if you are deciding to buy it over an Anakee or Tourance rear for cost alone. I am telling you this from experience - I have used all three, not because I read some test or spec sheet on the web.


Gustavo

So there are no real 17" front DS tires are there?
I kow there are rear 17"s though... and so what I was thinking, and I've heard this before from others, is that you can mount a rear tire backwards to the front rim... is this a viable option?
I really want some tires that will hold well to dirt and gravel, not knobbies, but good DS tires...
what do you guys reccomend?!?

So there are no real 17" front DS tires are there?


There are a couple of options. The Avon Distanzia Invader shows in the post above is a pretty decent option. Pirelli makes the MT-60RS Corsa which maybe even better off road. They also make matching rears in 160/60-17. The problem is that those sizes are popular with supermoto bikes, and as such, the tires are made of a soft, very sticky, compound that doesn't last long. A Distanzia or MT60 rear probably will be gone in 3K miles (or less, depending on your riding style). It gets rather expensive at that wear rate. but other than that, both are good choices.

That's why many are trying the 150/70-17 versions that are popular with big traillies and are designed to last a lot longer (I get 8-9K out of an Anakee or Tourance rear on the V-Strom 1K, should last even longer on the lighter and less powerful Versys).

You can find some 17" rear tires that will fit the front (you'll have to raise the fender to make it clear). The handling characteristics of those tires will not be the same as that of a 120/70-17 designed for the front. It will work, but whether you enjoy it depends on your priorities and riding style.

There are quite a few tire threads here and on the UK forum. Lots of user feedback on different combinations that will help you figure out what is the right combo that could work for you.

Gustavo

So after looking at the websites that correspond with most of the mentined tires, I'm thinking the ankaees may be the best bet...
they don't make a 17" front anakee though.... so what I'm thinking is...
the 150/70r rear for the rear, and a 120/90b rear flipped for the front...
any opinions on these? cause to be honest, I know that the fist number corresponds to width and the second the aspect ratio, but I don't know what those numbers translate to in terms of real life performance...

also... is a 120 front too wide? If not I may even go to a 130, as they offer the 130 in a raidal rather than a bias... which I believe just means a longer life span... am I correct?

Sorry guys, I'm new to all this tire stuff...

I'm not saying it's not a good tire. It is and is fairly popular with the big trailie crowd that doesn't venture off-road that much for a good reason. It's a good road tire. But I got the impression that that wasn't what you were looking for.

Forget the manufacturer's classification, it's meaningless in this case (not unlike Kawasaki putting the Versys in the Dual Sport category of it's line-up). If you really want a tire that works off road the BW502 isn't it. It's definitely a case of being penny wise and pound foolish if you are deciding to buy it over an Anakee or Tourance rear for cost alone. I am telling you this from experience - I have used all three, not because I read some test or spec sheet on the web.


Gustavo

I'm not looking for a rear tire that's more off-road capable than the BW502. It is in fact dual sport oriented with its deep and gradually wider grooves, and is aggressive enough for my needs. I was referring to highly positive comparisons of the BW502 with the Anakee, Tourance, Distanzia, etc, as reported by other forums' motorcyclists who've actually tried them in various conditions on comparable mid-size rides.

So after looking at the websites that correspond with most of the mentined tires, I'm thinking the ankaees may be the best bet...
they don't make a 17" front anakee though.... so what I'm thinking is...
the 150/70r rear for the rear, and a 120/90b rear flipped for the front...
any opinions on these? cause to be honest, I know that the fist number corresponds to width and the second the aspect ratio, but I don't know what those numbers translate to in terms of real life performance...

also... is a 120 front too wide? If not I may even go to a 130, as they offer the 130 in a raidal rather than a bias... which I believe just means a longer life span... am I correct?

Sorry guys, I'm new to all this tire stuff...

A 130/80-17 is even taller than a 120/90-17... The Versys is engineered to work with radial tires. A bias doesn't work like a radial and may be incompatible for the radial inclined geometry of the V. I wouldn't worry about having a softer 120/70-17 supermoto tire on the front, which would probably still outlast the rear. A Pirelli Scorpion MT 90 S/T 150/70-17 rear with a Pirelli MT60 120/70-17 would be good combo too. Unlike the rear MT 60 RS Corsa, front MT 60 is not said to have the 'Corsa super-moto compound'.
http://www.pirellityre.com/web/catalog/moto/moto_catalogoDett.page?categoria=/catalog/moto/on_off_road/enduro_street&vehicleType=MOTO

Sorry for drifting a bit off track, Bicyclebob. :offtopic:

I have BattleWings on the V-Strom (maybe had would be more correct, the rear is toast :() and I don't think they are significantly more dual sport than a Scorpion Sync. Why not go with a Distanzia in the rear too? An Anakee or Tourance (not EXP) would also make good dual sport and long mileage options.

What was this thread about, again? :p

Gustavo

So how much mileage are you at on the BW502's, and how much longer will they go for compared to the others? I still have time to change my mind with all the possibilities and combinations. Maybe we'll see new tire models for 2009.

So 4,000 miles on the rear sprocket and there are almost no signs of wear.

So how much mileage are you at on the BW502's, and how much longer will they go for compared to the others?

The current tire has ~7K miles and it's done. And I mean done, as in close to showing cords (it wore faster than I expected, I was on a trip in Mexico, there was no place to get a tire on the way back), I need to replace it before I take another road trip. In comparison, 3 sets of Anakees lasted 8-9K miles, 1 Tourance went 12K (touring two-up) and another lasted 9K (more "normal" riding conditions, so about same as an Anakee). I usually replace tires well before they reach the wear marks, unless I'm on the road in the middle of a trip. Some people would probably ride an extra 1K miles on those tires. To me it's not worth the time or money "savings" to defer the change and ride on tires that are getting square and have lost a significant part of their handling characteristics.

Hope this helps,

Gustavo

So 4,000 miles on the rear sprocket and there are almost no signs of wear.

That's great. Vertex's 7075 T6 aluminum is of really high quality. It's good to have less unsprung and rotational weight too. We could even switch to titanium sprocket and rotor bolt$/nut$...

Thanks Gustavo. Good to know the more off-road capable Anakee is also harder to kill. I think the distributor I showed will get more in stock for much less than local ~$450 total each, and I have time to let our dollar recover by spring, maybe. :usa: Good thing I install and balance them myself...

I ordered the 43 tooth rear sprocket. How many links will need to be removed from the stock chain, if any?

Rear axle would be moved back a tad, even with one less chain link, but others still didn't shorten the chain with 15/43 sprockets. http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3369&highlight=sprockets

For all you rear sprocket changers, I found the axle easier to re-assemble in the reverse direction. That is to say, nut and cotter pin now on the right side of the bike.

A question for those who installed the 44 T.....when starting out in first, is it nessessary to slip/feather the clutch? I went one tooth higher on the counter sprocket on my Nighthawk and found it nessessary to do just that, especially on a slight incline.........thanks.

Nope

Ok wanting to go to the 44 T rear sprocket. What are the choices out there that everyone has found and the pros and cons from those that have used them for a while. Thanks in advance for the feed back.

Hell I went 43T rear and LOVE IT. Much more relaxed at highway speed (approx 500-600 RPM less.) I've had this on for over 1000 miles now and wouldn't think of changing back.

SunStar OEM steel 43T rear http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/5/85/18219/23271/PITEM/Sunstar-520-Steel-Rear-Sprocket-2008-Kawasaki-Versys-Parts.aspx

crap, only 500-600rpm less? I was hoping for more then that. Crap my 44T is coming on Wednesday. I maybe should have went with a 43T.

RPM at actual 65 mph is reduced by just 200, from 4900 to 4700 RPM. Indicated engine revolutions to indicated speed relation does not change though... 15/44 sprockets gives you gearing that is 4.55% over stock, which is plenty and not overkill. Just perfect, actually.

Kimpex (http://www.kpx-kimpex.com/catalog.php?page=511&show=1) (Canada) lists "R.O.C." rear steel sprockets in 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46 and 47 tooth for only $30.99. (revised pricing-as listed for EX560-A Ninja 650R)
According to Kimpex: "ROC is our own sprockets and it’s made in China. (Republic Of China) There is no web site for those sprockets. We buy our sprocket from a company in China who makes sprockets for a lot of the OEM’s so the quality is very, very good. We have the 105329 (45T) in stock and our retail price is $30.99."


Hi Invader and everyone,

This is a little bit off topic::offtopic:
I just want to make a little clarification for R.O.C, because it's not the "China"
people normally refer to. R.O.C/Republic of China is the government that
fled to Taiwan after losing mainland China to the communist party. So,
ROC actually refers to Taiwan, if what we are concerning here is the quality of manufacturer. And the official abbr for China is P.R.O.C/People's Republic
of China. So to speak, a spare part manufactured in Taiwan/ROC is generally
concedered better in terms of QC... etc. Since Taiwan has a longer and
better history in manufacturing motorcycles and parts for US/EU/JAP and
ofcourse Taiwanese companies i.e. SYM/KYMCO/CPI. In fact, both SYM and
KYMCO were founded under supports from HONDA.

Anyway, :sorry: for the long and off-topic story, I just thought that if people
are looking for cheap replacement parts, they should know a little about
where these cheaper parts are made.

NB: things made in Taiwan can be marked either Taiwan(mostly) or R.O.C
things made in China are only marked as "Made in China"

Thanks people,:thanx:
Arvino

Thanks for the interesting info and history bit, arvino... I now have even more confidence in my finely crafted ROC sprocket. :thumb:

With the stock 15 front sprocket
and a 46 rear my bike indicates
4000 RPM at 55 MPH
I created the following chart to show predicted RPM's at different MPH
using different front and rear sprocket sizes.

Sprocket --------------- MPH --------------
Front Rear 55 60 65 70 75 80
15 46 4000 4364 4727 5091 5455 5818
16 46 3750 4091 4432 4773 5114 5455
15 43 3739 4079 4419 4759 5099 5439
15 42 3652 3984 4316 4648 4980 5312
15 40 3478 3794 4111 4427 4743 5059
15 39 3391 3700 4008 4316 4625 4933

In 6th Gear:

What is your RPM @ 70MPH?

What is your MPH @ 5000 RPM?

Sorry about any confusion, when I made this I was using a different font and when I pasted it into the reply box the columns shifted.
Example: 15 46 4000 4364 4727 5091 5455 5818 (from the first line…this is stock)
15 tooth front sprocket
46 tooth read sprocket
55 MPH @ 4000
60 MPH @ 4364
65 MPH @ 4727
70 MPH @ 5091
75 MPH @ 5455
80 MPH @ 5818
Hope this helps.

There may be some confusion in how those figures are interpreted. The indicated MPH and RPM relationship will remain unchanged regardless of sprocket changes. The only thing that changes is the actual speed you are traveling. I changed from a 46T to a 44T rear and the RPM/MPH is the same, except I'm going faster.

Relation between indicated speed and indicated rpm doesn't change when switching to a different size of sprocket, because the speed sensor is at the countershaft (front sprocket). Switching from a 46T to a 44T rear reduces speedometer error from about +8%, down to about +3.5%. Odometer error is increased from about 0%, up to about
-4.5%...

What RPM are you running at 65mph with the conversion to 44t?

When you change either the front or rear sprockets your INDICATED speed and INDICATED rpm will not ever change. This is because the speed pickup is located on the primary sprocket spine. No matter what sprocket combination you use the Versys only counts the number of revolutions of the counter sprocket spine and converts that into miles per hour. The same thing happens if you change tires. If the stock Versys was turning 4000 rpm at an indicated 60 mph in top gear and you substituted a small 12 inch back wheel and were turning 4000 rpm in top gear your speedometer would show the exact same speed (60 mph). The only way to truly know is to use a GPS, steady timed mile, radar gun, etc. to ascertain your true speed. Before I switched to a 43 tooth rear sprocket I determined (with GPS) that my speedometer was optimistic by about 7% and my odometer was very close to accurate. The 43 tooth rear sprocket (if memory serves) changed the gearing by 6.5%. This change should make my speedometer almost spot on (haven’t checked it yet) but it will also make my odometer pessimistic by the same percent so if I were to check my gas mileage now using the indicated miles traveled it would show an approximate 6.5% decrease in miles per gallon. It seems you can’t have everything although I keep trying.

What was your reason for going with the 44 tooth rear sprocket? I though the 43 tooth was suppose to be the holy grail.

I went with a 43 tooth stealth sprocket. A little pricey compared to a regular steel sprocket, but I love the looks! Not to mention the more relaxed pace with it. IMHO, not sure if you'd notice much diff with a 44. Realistically you could get a way with a 42 tooth. Depends on how much highway riding you do.

After reading this thread, I think that the Versys is as a stock-geared bike a city bike (mostly). Don't you agree? As is--it's got plenty of short and quick shifts to top-end legal speeds through and around traffic. It can do short inter-city commutes, but at high revs on the county, US, and interstate highways. It's not particularly suited to the same low revs and comfort of a cruiser or full-on sport tourer.

Maybe. . . . remember that the motorcycle is, essentially, a re-tuned, re-tooled, Ninja.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

When you change either the front or rear sprockets your INDICATED speed and INDICATED rpm will not ever change



Am I missing something or are these two statements in conflict? When you change either the front or rear sprockets, the speed 'indicated' on the digital speedo will drop by around 7% making it almost nuts on as you say. Your odometer will now underead and imply your mpg is slightly worse when in fact its slightly better. Probably doesn't matter and I'm miss-reading the word indicated some how:confused:

Machog

I only have 7000 plus miles on my Versys now.

I might only make changes to my sprockets when my chains/sprockets worn out... Probably another 10,000 miles to go... right? How long those chains/sprockets last?

When that times come, I was planning to go with a 16 front sprocket and stay with 46 rear... Anyone know what does to the RPM and odometer??? My understanding is that this combination will allow more chains links, and thus slightly more chains life...

Thanks!

When you change either the front or rear sprockets, the speed 'indicated' on the digital speedo will drop by around 7% making it almost nuts on as you say. Your odometer will now underead and imply your mpg is slightly worse when in fact its slightly better. Probably doesn't matter and I'm miss-reading the word indicated some how:confused:

Machog

Changing from stock 15/46 sprockets to 16/46 (+6.67%) or 15/43 (+6.98%) corrects speedometer error. Odometer and trip meters then read about 7% low. Multiply indicated mileage by 1.07 to get actual covered mileage from when the gearing is raised with 15/43 or 16/46 sprockets, and to calculate your fuel mileage.

new to the forum,Ihave an 08 V with almost 20k.used the forum to change plugs:)After getting back from 29 Palms(visiting daughter and son-in-law)I couldn't help but hear my chain cursing me after neglecting it for the 1st 7k miles.now I know better but fear its too late:(Read the forum on the subject so tomorrow will change the chain and rear sprocket.I'm going to go the 44 tooth route as I love my freeway rides.29 palms is almost 600 miles round trip.most of the posts are from last year but I hope someone will pick this up.:usa:

azunion, in order to maximize the ROI on your new chain and sprockets, could be up to $300.00 depending on if you do it yourself or not. Apply this every tankful or so;
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii30/Macvalk/IMG_2203.jpg

I have over 22k miles on my chain and sprockets using this stuff. Thanks to my learned and much smarter friend Gustavo for suggesting this stuff its great. Doesn't fling off or collect dirt. BTW, I never clean my chain, I just add this stuff to it on every 300 miles or so.

Machog

finally finished my sprockets and chain project.after some research,here and the bike shop,and with the help of my neighbors' impact wrench,I got the front sprocket nut off.the 43 tooth sprocket is great(I know I said that already) in case anyone is wondering.thanks for all your help at the forum.

Our pleasure.

Chain and sprocket update: 17k miles and still no noticeable wear and almost zero stretch.

G'Day Bob,

Hope you are fine and well.
Happy with the rear 43 teeth. Changed to DID gold. IMHO, nice color.

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu172/stlee29/IMG_1142.jpg

:cheers:

Are you using the Scott Oiler on this chain? That looks like the applicator next to the slider. How about an update?

Cheers,
Bob

G'Day Bob,

Yes, using the scottoiler with 80w-90 gear oil. Cheap and good ;)

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu172/stlee29/Picture050.jpg
The scottoiler vacuum connector is connected between the the inlet air pressure line. Used silicone to prevent any leaks. The "Y" connector was from the fish aquarium.

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu172/stlee29/Picture051.jpg
The throttle bodies are connected together with the "U" tube.

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu172/stlee29/Picture052.jpg
The applicator close to the sprocket is actually a WD-40 spray can applicator.
The original scottoiler applicator dropped somewhere along the road.
Heated the WD-40 applicator with hot water to bend it as shown.

Cheers, Bob. Hope you are A-OK. Good rides.

Go to sprocketcalculator.com and it will tell you what you will gain and lose by changing sprockets.

44t gained everything that I wanted!

Yes indeed...x10! Awesome mod.:cheers:

finally i went with the 16/45 option.it was not so radical as i thought but in real situations you can notice the gains.with a good maintenance you can get about 30k km from the original chain and sprockets.enuma(original) chain is a bit expensive but it seems to last longer than the alternatives aftermarket for the versys.
i used a jt steel sprocket ,it cost was 12 euro and till now it sounds as the original=quite.
the speedo works fine now and the bike on the road become more competitive,considering some other mods i have done like exaust filter sparklpugs inlet.
i believe that making it a bit taller you use better the power distribution(torgue) over the revband .i can sure say that i dont feel it is overkill as someone mentioned,16 front fits just fine.44t on the back might seemed a bit low from my point of view.also 16 front is practically a "free" mod in terms of cost.
naz

Hello all,
Does anyone have a hard number for gas mileage gain after the 44t swap? I just got my Versys on the 14th and get about 45-50 mpg on average. My 83 Honda Magna V65 got 42-45, but it cruised at 3000 rpms at 60. I just want to see if I can justify the cost of the chain and sprocket! Thanks.

Bumped for further review!

Rather than fool around with finding the 16t dampened front sprocket I installed a 44t rear sprocket. A good rule of thumb is 1 tooth in the front equals 3 teeth in the rear. A 43t rear with the 15t front is nearly the same as a 16t front with the stock 46t rear. I just wanted a little bit less RPM at freeway speed but not to loose the snap of the stock gearing. It is exactly what I was looking for.

Got the Vortex VTX-452AK-44 sprocket and the RK RK-XW-520-001 chain at www.motosport.com.

Take a look.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x281/bicyclebob/100_0118.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x281/bicyclebob/100_0119.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x281/bicyclebob/100_0120.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x281/bicyclebob/100_0122.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x281/bicyclebob/100_0123.jpg

Bicyclebob I really like that sprocket, is it steel or aluminum, I would prefer steel for its strength, shaving a little weight doesn't interest me in the sprocket if it meens its not as durable.

GC13,

It is aluminum. I have about 10k miles on this now and it still looks like new.

Bob

I have had the 44t since about 600 miles on my bike. I like it a lot, not only highway, but so I can get through an intersection without shifting. ;)

I have over 22k miles on my chain and sprockets using this stuff. Thanks to my learned and much smarter friend Gustavo for suggesting this stuff its great. Doesn't fling off or collect dirt. BTW, I never clean my chain, I just add this stuff to it on every 300 miles or so.

I was doing the same thing until I cleaned my bike and my chain was icky. So I cleaned it with WD-40 and then put that stuff back on. I bet it didn't help it a bit, but it looks nice! :)

Bumping up this old thread for all the new people talking about the 44t.

Thanks Bob, I am next in line :)

Ok so I am limited by power. How about a turbo let me guess if you want more power buy a crotch rocket sounds like I need a Ninja ZX-10R but I dont want to spend 10,000 plus dollars on one. I love my V I just wish it had a little more top end 150 is all I am looking for so 40 more mph. I like to ride a lot. I think that 9400 miles in 8 months considering that the whole month of May I was in Cali minus one V. Well I guess the morale of the story is stop my B****ing and be happy I can only crash doing 110 rather than 150. Bear on Bicycle I was wondering how many miles you have on your V?
I could have had a Triumph 800 Tiger if I would have only waited. I now have so much invested in the KMW Versys that I have to keep it.:huh:

Only 1 question - why isn't the 44 sprocket STOCK on this bike?

Riding 2 up on the mountains was easy... cruising at 80 all day long WITHOUT hunting for the 7th gear.... incredible!!

Damn, I shouldn't have waited this long to do it....

I feel the Versys has very little vibes. Less than my FZ1 which was an I-4, the opposite of what you'd think. I'm coming off a bike with twice the power of the Versys, and I'm totally happy with it 98% of the time. It will be a huge step of on the street compared to the KLR.

Luke

Similar experiences. I had an 05 FZ1 and thought it very buzzy, even for an I-4 standards. All motor mounts torqued exactly to spec, carbs synced perfectly, upper tree and bar risers and bars torqued to spec...you get the picture. Even with my Progrip 714's, my hands and forearms would be buzzed after 90 minutes of riding.

I have yet to check the mounts or carb sync on the Versys (just a few weeks old) but it's definitely smoother at most rpm ranges above 3000rpm.

Ordered a Supersprox 44t today. WooHoo !! :yeahsmile:

How do you like it?

It's good. Drops the revs a touch to make motorway cruising a bit nicer and it helps accelerating through the first two gears by not revving out just so quickly. Still wheelies well, probably better in fact. :yeahsmile: The speedo reads 99/100% accurate now also.

It also looks great.

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu93/Davy_F/P7050046.jpg

What is the general wisdom for changing to a new (44t) sprocket while keeping the front one and chain witch did about 17,000km?

I'm not ready to change a full set now, but I would like to try 44t rear.

You'll knacker the new rear sprocket very quickly. It's always best to change the whole set together.

Patience, my young Padowan. :grinangel:

Ivan, you could bite the bullet, get the 44T on, and if you like it, get a set of new front sprocket and chain. Store the old set and have a blast! Else, swap back the 46T and put the 44T on eBay.

I kind of expect to like it because only gripe I have with the engine and transmission is anemic 1st gear witch can't get me out of intersection or trough the hairpin. More 'space' between first few gears would also be nice.