I switched my front sprocket for one tooth more to drop the rpm's a bit at highway speeds and it worked great.
I found that at the speed I wanted to cruise at, the revs were a little high. One of the sales guys where I bought my bike suggested the change as he did that to his V-Strom.
At 130kph it drops the RPM about 1500.

Hi: Did you have to add any links to the chain.

no, there is very little difference in diameter and since the engine is the same as the ninja, the dealer had some readily available.

A 16 tooth countershaft sprocket makes the gearing 6.66% taller. Indicated rpm in relation to indicated speed doesn't change, as the speed sensor is on the countershaft. The 16 tooth reduces speedometer error to about +1.5% and increases odometer error to about -6%. RPM at actual 60 MPH (98 kph) is down to about 4250 rpm... At an actual 130 kph, rpm is reduced by about 380 rpm to around 5640.
AFAM has a case hardened chromoly steel 16 tooth sprocket # 27500-16 for the Versys, as listed for Kawasaki ER-6N and ER-6F (European version): http://www.dc-afam.com/dc-afam/uploads/documents/4.Addendum.pdf
Available from Importation Thibault Ltd (Canada), # 110-635F for $23.99.
In USA from Thumpertalk (http://shop.thumpertalk.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TR%5F900657) for $16.62 plus shipping...

Thanks for the more accurate technical specs, my observations were based soley on looking at the tach at speed, before and after, as well as feeling.

seems like you might be the guy to ask about any other techie stuff!!

How is the bottom end feel on roll-on affected?

Hooligan,

Roll on was affected a little bit, but nothing I haven't gotten used to. If you are able to accelerate normally then it's not a big deal at all. A lot of my driving is commuting to work, but I live in a smaller city, so traffic is not very heavy. If I had to do a lot of slow speed driving, I might not have made the change. I used to ride a DR 650 so I found the Versys a little more finicky when I first rode it. I also looked at the Vstrom before I got my bike and found the Suzuki slightly better at slow speeds, but attributed that to the larger front tire. It was actually the Vstrom that made me change the sprocket. The Vstrom I rode was a salesmans personal bike, and he had gone up one tooth on the front.

Been running a 16T for 2000 miles, you get used to the slower accel pretty quick. This bike has plenty of low end so you want miss it. I get 53mpg on regular. On chain length, think I moved the axle up like 3/16", no links required.

Depending on the slack of the chain, I get a harmonic roar at +-50mph, but no biggie. The original CS had rubber dampeners the 16T I purchased does not.

My GPS shows the speedo now to be within 1 mph, before the bike was like 7% fast on speedo.

I don't mean to sound stupid, but what is harmonic roar?

I don't mean to sound stupid, but what is harmonic roar?

I first got this after a 220 mile run to let a buddy ride the Versys. He comes back and says, I didn't ride it too far, what is that loud noise? I go, what noise? I had been running with earplugs and 78 -80 mph on the interstate.

When I left I went a backroad and got stuck in traffic, like 50 mph, WOW! Big roar or noise like something loose, pull in clutch still there, drop below 50mph, gone, go above 52 gone, hmmmm.

If you adjust the chain tighter like .8" slack it almost goes away, but when it gets like 1.2" slack, it is at its worse. The stock counter sprocket has rubber embedded the new aftermarket 16T does not. The sprocket sets up a loud harmony if you will with the chain.

Has anyone found a 16T with the rubber dampeners?

There is a OEM 16 tooth sprocket with the rubber dampers from Kawasaki, listed for the ER500. Part # 13144-1269 ($34.52), but it's thicker at 8.8 mm intead of 5.8 mm with an outer shoulder that has to be ground down to fit.

I have an AFAM #27500-16 with no dampers and it seems fine so far, with maybe just a faint harmonic hum at a certain speed...

Now that we have some parts and part numbers, does anyone have any instructions, detailed or otherwise on how to install the sprocket? Can a caveman do it? Any special tools required? Any photos, diagrams or step by step procedures out there? Thanks in advance.

http://forums.kawasakiversys.com/showthread.php?t=281

http://forums.kawasakiversys.com/showthread.php?t=216&highlight=manual

With proper guidance, a caveman would surely be strong enough to do it with a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 1 1/16" socket... Some use an pneumatic or electric impact wrench to loosen nut. I'd rather do it as specified in repair manual and avoid hammering the transmission gears and distorting some shafts. If you insist on the impact wrench, leave it in neutral to isolate the engine components. It's torqued to 92 ft-lbs. The rear brake is not quite strong enough, so I blocked the rear wheel with a lenght of 2" X 3"' wood in the swingarm, wrapped and carefully positioned to avoid denting the swingarm's thin aluminum...

Thats a really interesting point.. i wonder how well 520 chain conversion might go then with a light driving mass weight. it would certainly go harder at all speeds..

Thats a really interesting point.. i wonder how well 520 chain conversion might go then with a light driving mass weight. it would certainly go harder at all speeds..


?? What are you talking about? The Versys already has a 520 chain...

I checked on ordering this sprocket (rubber dampened) but after $16+ for shipping, it was almost $50. All of the sudden my 16T doesn't make much noise after all, ha.

The Versys is perfect with the 16T, can't beleive it didn't come with one!

As I added after, Ninja 500r CS # 13144-1269 is thicker at 8.8 mm intead of 5.8 mm with an outer shoulder that has to be ground down to fit...
I'm also happy with my AFAM # 27500-16.

Well, I just ordered mine. Still wondering what this noise you guys are talking about. If I do not like it, it's only $30.

Here is where I ordered from.
http://www.heartlandhonda.com/eshopprod_cat_3474-6183-11871_product_424546.AFAM174_SPROCKETS.htm
:thumb:

Mine is on the way also...$12.78. I get a discount at my dealership. WOO HOO!

If you have enough mileage on the original crappy chain already, you may as well upgrade to a higher quality one with a new rear sprocket too while you're at it. I'll probably reinstall original unused 15 tooth sprocket on next year with a 112 link (114 stock) high grade chain with a 43, or with a 44 tooth rear sprocket (46 stock) if I switch to a taller (+2.73%) 150/70-17 rear tire...

I installed a 16t sprocket on the front today. The Versys should come this way from the factory. I do get noise, however, and its fairly loud & in every gear. It seems louder when decelerating. I bought a Sunstar steel sprocket.

You know, as I sit here typing this, I can't help but wonder if the sprocket has proper clearance between it & the motor. I didn't even check that. I'm going to take it back apart tomorrow. It shouldn't be making that much noise...

Did you get Sunstar # 32516? It is flat on both sides and should fit properly... Did you torque the nut to 92 lbs? How's the chain adjustment?

Did you get Sunstar # 32516? It is flat on both sides and should fit properly... Did you torque the nut to 92 lbs? How's the chain adjustment?

Yep, that's the part #. Yes I did torque the nut to 92 ft lbs. The chain is good. Not to tight, about an inch of slack.

I'm going to look at it tomorrow. I may just have to live with the noise for now. If it gets to be too much, I might order the rubber coated sprocket mentioned earlier. I really like the bike with the 16t. :D

My spocket gets fairly loud when the chain is over 1" slack, but just between 50-52 mph which seems to be all the time on some back roads that are 45 limits. If you tighten the chain to like .8" it nearly goes away.

+2 on Versys should have come with this sprocket or at least offer it rubber dampened as an option.

My chain is noisy because it didn't stretch evenly. Check if the chain tension varies as you turn the wheel.
I'm not sure how easily CS # 13144-1269 can be adapted as I haven't seen it. A 3 mm shoulder has to be removed without damaging dampers... Maybe we can find the exact rubber dampened 16 tooth application for another model, possibly from a different make.

Well, I tightened my chain to a little less than an inch of slack. I don't like running it that tight personally, but thought I'd give it a try to see if it would lessen the noise. I believe all it did, really, was change the pitch of the noise slightly. I did a short highway run today & really love the way the bike rides with the 16t, but somethings gotta be done about the noise. I could clearly hear it at 70. I wonder why the sprocket does this? Is it the shape of the teeth? Is it the rubber on the OEM sprocket that keeps it quiet? Hmmm.... :confused::confused:

133bhp of Versys UK forum fitted a solid JT sprocket #51616 with the 3 mm shoulder which he has to ground off; http://www.versys.co.uk/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=45&topic=1591.15
"reminds me, for anyone reading this, regards my prev post and the 8 mm width? Having had countershafts splines wear in the past, I was taking a chance going for the extra width for reasons of having more area under load, if it fitted? - it doesn't - or rather will but a) you cant use the locking washer and b) the nut will foul the speed sensor, requiring a couple of washers to space it out.

I ground of the shoulder with no prob. and would'nt go back to a 15t. Not sure what top speed is? suspect wil reach same?, will test one day."

Well, I tightened my chain to a little less than an inch of slack. I don't like running it that tight personally, but thought I'd give it a try to see if it would lessen the noise. I believe all it did, really, was change the pitch of the noise slightly. I did a short highway run today & really love the way the bike rides with the 16t, but somethings gotta be done about the noise. I could clearly hear it at 70. I wonder why the sprocket does this? Is it the shape of the teeth? Is it the rubber on the OEM sprocket that keeps it quiet? Hmmm.... :confused::confused:

Yep got to be the rubber dampener, tells me that Kawaski techs knew it was an issue thus building that CS with the rubber. I just can't believe they didn't make a 16T like it also???

Mine has been fairly quiet, but I have a lot of miles of just bland commuting not much blasting around.

I have a large monarch 18x60 lathe and little chinese mill. I will offer to cut down the #13144-1269 to match the original for someone that wants to test. Easy to mount with brass shims on the teeth in the lathe, dial it in square and turn off the access with carbide tools. Thought about doing it myself but mine is not that loud and confined to small segmet of speed.

Anyone tried using a 14t sprocket? I can only imagine the accelerations with it :) With speeds limits I get my fun from 0-150km/h..past that is just a way for me to lose my license :P But there's no rules on how fast you get to the speed limit and a little past that :)

Can anyone say what size the countershaft sprocket nut is? I have a few larger metric impact sockets, but not quite that large (yet).

Thanks,

heehaw

I believe it is 1-1/16" or 1-3/16", 6 side works great, but my memory is dim. I put a 2" x 4" piece between the swingarm and wheel struts to hold, nut is like really tight!

Anyone tried using a 14t sprocket? I can only imagine the accelerations with it :) With speeds limits I get my fun from 0-150km/h..past that is just a way for me to lose my license :P But there's no rules on how fast you get to the speed limit and a little past that :)

I posted this on the other sprocket thread after switching sprockets yesterday.
IMHO this mod takes some of the character away from the V. The super playful snap is replaced by a longer, more refined type of ride. Not horrible, but for me not appealing.

The V is like a happy, eager puppy that has gained its coordination, but isn't so grown that its learned to mellow out yet. With the 16 tooth sprocket, you still have the power but it comes on differently. I think more mellow. Too mellow for me. The V was designed to give you the ultimate ear to ear grin from zero to 90 or so. Beyond that and you may be on the wrong bike. Yes it may be a little buzzier at freeway speeds, but the on demand wheel lifting torque out of the turns more than makes up for this.

I would say if you are not overly concerned about having fun, and you are using this bike for strictly commuting or touring, this mod is for you.

If you are like me and spend most of your time doing short commutes around town, and weekend riding on super twisty roads, this mod may be a dissapointment. I'd love to hear what others think.

Can anyone say what size the countershaft sprocket nut is? I have a few larger metric impact sockets, but not quite that large (yet).

Thanks,

heehaw

27mm

A 1-1/16" (26.9875 mm) socket is just a hair tighter and works fine. I also used a length of 2X4 wood in the rear wheel, but carefully wrapped in a towel and positioned to avoid denting the swingarm's thin aluminum. It was then easy to break it loose with 1/2" drive breaker bar, and re-torque it to 92 ft-lbs.

Antman you have hit the mark. This is a great fun/play/goof-off bike. The snappy throttle and flickability are exactly the reason I chose this machine. Freeway cruising is just something that you have to do on the way to the twisty stuff. I did install a PCIII to get rid of some of the fuel gremlins that popped up. Complete success!
Get out ride and enjoy life!!

Antman you have hit the mark. This is a great fun/play/goof-off bike. The snappy throttle and flickability are exactly the reason I chose this machine. Freeway cruising is just something that you have to do on the way to the twisty stuff. I did install a PCIII to get rid of some of the fuel gremlins that popped up. Complete success!
Get out ride and enjoy life!!


Glad to hear its not just me:thumb:

A 1 week old 16t for sale. Free shipping

http://forums.kawasakiversys.com/showthread.php?p=6872#post6872

Talk about reviving an old thread...

Well, I put the 15t sprocket back on the front the other day. Call me John Kerry, but man I like the peppiness! I also like how quiet the bike is now. That gear whine from the 16t was annoyingly loud. I think I'll leave it this way...

Talk about reviving an old thread...

Well, I put the 15t sprocket back on the front the other day. Call me John Kerry, but man I like the peppiness! I also like how quiet the bike is now. That gear whine from the 16t was annoyingly loud. I think I'll leave it this way...


Yep.

I installed a 16t sprocket on the front today. The Versys should come this way from the factory. I do get noise, however, and its fairly loud & in every gear. It seems louder when decelerating. I bought a Sunstar steel sprocket.

You know, as I sit here typing this, I can't help but wonder if the sprocket has proper clearance between it & the motor. I didn't even check that. I'm going to take it back apart tomorrow. It shouldn't be making that much noise...

Hey Bear;
I just changed my sprocket BACK to the original 15T and examined my Sunstar sprocket when I took it off. I should have looked at it more closely before I put the other back on, but didn't. What I found was the inside had a noticeable wear pattern, the outside, unscathed. Now I do take my time aligning everything, both with a string, eyeballing and the swingarm marks. At first I thought it was due to just that, and I can't discount that as a potential cause...but....the wear pattern is STRANGE. Every other tooth has the "wear" mark just about up to the chamfer on the tooth. Kind of reminds me of a snowflake. The black anodizing has been polished......just food for thought with regard to the noise we all seem to hear with aftermarket sprockets. I wonder if the cut of the teeth has anything to do with it....never seen this before. I have about 1500 miles on this sprocket. Also, when I slowly spun the wheel when on my swingarm stand, the chain seemed to "catch" albeit slightly, on the teeth as it rotated. It does not do this with the factory , original sprocket. I may try another application from the Kawi Dept, even though they cost more.......if it wasn't such a pain in the arse {well not really but sort of...} to change, I'd do some experimenting.

I have had my 16 on for 6000 miles. Noise has gone away. I have liked having the speedo right, 55 plus gas mileage and I have slowed down a little so I don't miss the pep I hear about. If I get to missing pep I pull the 130 hp torqe monster ZRX out of the garage and rip.

I just checked my 16t sprocket & its very similar to what you're describing! Very observant! Well, either way, I'm sticking to the 15t for awhile. I really dig the peppiness. Now I gotta figure out what to do about the damned seat...

Hey, thanks for posting. I wonder if maybe someone should send sunstar an email about it...

I just checked my 16t sprocket & its very similar to what you're describing! Very observant! Well, either way, I'm sticking to the 15t for awhile. I really dig the peppiness. Now I gotta figure out what to do about the damned seat...

Hey, thanks for posting. I wonder if maybe someone should send sunstar an email about it...

Interesting...wonder if the sprocket is not machined correctly....I'm going to look into it further.......anyway...about the seat. I had a local upholstery shop add about one inch to my seat. They were able to stretch the factory cover over the newer high density foam. That, combined with the peg lowering brackets, are just what the doctor ordered. Cost to modify the seat was about $125. Do it, your butt will appreciate it. :)

I just checked my 16t sprocket & its very similar to what you're describing! Very observant! Well, either way, I'm sticking to the 15t for awhile. I really dig the peppiness. Now I gotta figure out what to do about the damned seat...

Hey, thanks for posting. I wonder if maybe someone should send sunstar an email about it...

My seat went from the worst of 5 bikes I have to the best. Very comfortable. Its around 1 to 1&1/2 inches taller than stock. The pegs are from A buell XB9. I spent less than 50 dollars on the seat and the pegs around 45.00.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh136/golfmuch/DSC07631.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh136/golfmuch/DSC07638.jpg

Redline, Bear
I put the Kawa OEM 16T sprocket with damper, no noise or alignment issues.
Also put a Leo Vince can on, seems to have restored all the pep of it stock with the 15T. Works for me.

Cheers
Dave

Redline, Bear
I put the Kawa OEM 16T sprocket with damper, no noise or alignment issues.
Also put a Leo Vince can on, seems to have restored all the pep of it stock with the 15T. Works for me.

Cheers
Dave


I have the Akrapovic end can on and I agree, there is a substantial mid-range boost.....it more than evens out the sprocket change. Put the 15 back on though and it's radically different. :)

Talk about reviving an old thread...

Well, I put the 15t sprocket back on the front the other day. Call me John Kerry, but man I like the peppiness! I also like how quiet the bike is now. That gear whine from the 16t was annoyingly loud. I think I'll leave it this way...


I was glad to read this post and the few above it as I thought maybe I was going nuts. :D I feel the bike is borderline geared to tall stock and people were going taller. :eek: I was scratching my head so hard what hair I have left was starting to fall out. :)

Well I already ordered a 16T countershaft sprocket. So the front wheel will not pop off the asphalt anymore when you give a quick twist from a stop?
I guess I will go ahead and add a Triumph Street Triple 675 to the stable later this year. That bike will do it in at least first and second gear and is still a light bike.

Well I already ordered a 16T countershaft sprocket. So the front wheel will not pop off the asphalt anymore when you give a quick twist from a stop?
I guess I will go ahead and add a Triumph Street Triple 675 to the stable later this year. That bike will do it in at least first and second gear and is still a light bike.

It will still wheelie in 1st, although not as easily... Just add a wheelie bar in case. :thumb: