Well guys, i just bought my brand new versys, and, man, what a dream! my only complaint is the low end viberation, but durning the break in period you have to ride at much lower than normal rpms, so that is probably half the problem, just a few things i want are saddle bags, and a taller windsheild for sure, im about 6 foot and that thing just dont do it for me haha.

Yeah, the break-in is absolutely ridiculous - it gives you a usable range of about 200 RPM's. This engine just starts to come alive above 5 thousand RPM's. After reading probably about 150 different opinions about how to properly break-in a motorcycle engine I chose my own route - that being not staying at one RPM for a long period of time and lots of slow roll-ons up to approximately 8 or 9 thousand RPM's then rolling off the throttle slowly letting the engine slow the bike back down until the engine was around 3k RPM's. I found this quite easy to do while commuting in the wonderfully miserable Seattle traffic. Then I changed the oil/filter at about 500 miles instead of the recommended 600. As carefully as possible I inspected the oil that drained out and saw no evidence of metallic bits present - in fact the oil was amazingly clean. I'm going to change the oil again (with non-synthetic) again at around 1000 to 1200 depending on rides then go to the normal recommended interval with semi-synth or full synth.

Anyways, I guess my main point is that there are so many different opinions about this subject - people get almost religious about it. Do what feels right to you - but at the absolute minimum I would say do what the manual says.

Regarding the taller windshield: I'm 5'11" and not exactly thin and I went ahead and ordered the Givi windscreen the day I picked up my bike. I installed it a couple weeks later when it arrived on the highest setting and immediately went out for a 250+ mile ride. I was quite surprised at how much buffeting there was behind this huge windshield. After reading a couple other entries on another Versys forum I tried lowering the Givi to its lowest setting - what a difference. Much cleaner air over the top and virtually no buffeting. If you get the Givi windshield I would recommend trying it on the lowest setting first.

Thanks for your info! I live on the olympic peninsula so as you know, our weather hasnt held out a whole lot for riding yet, and i work on a tug boat out of ballard so ive owned it for 2 months and just turned 100 miles haha... I did notice another thing.... the front tire throws any debris and dirt right into the radiator! im thinking extend-a-fender , do you know if they make one? im gonna have to check out the windscreen too.... what exactly constitues as one rpm for " too long" all we have around here are highways so its hard to change it up

I just received my "Fenda Extenda" from Adventure Motorsport which I ordered from here: http://www.amotostuff.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=053420&Category_Code=versys_650

Haven't installed it yet but it doesn't seem like it's long enough to do much. However, it does appear to be long enough to keep the crud off at least the radiator. That site has a pretty good price on the Givi windscreen too. I'm sure there are other sites that have the extenda too that others can recommend. I ordered from Adventure Motorsport because they are in Nevada and shipping doesn't take as long as another well known distributor who is located in Rhode Island - that seems to take forever.

I know what you mean about the weather - however tomorrow and Saturday are shaping up to be amazing. A couple friends and I are heading out Saturday for a couple-hundred miles of backroad riding.

As far as the RPM's, I'd say if you're on the freeway just speed up gradually and then roll back off to a comfortable speed every few minutes instead of hanging at the same speed/RPM for long periods of time. I have it a bit easier - I've been commuting to work in the lovely Seattle traffic...speed up, slow down, stop, speed up, stop, etc....:mad:

During my break in my gas milage is just above 40 mpg. I have not been above 4000 rpm so it seems like i am really babying it. I have read where most are getting above 50, how many mpg's are you guys getting?

I'm just over 1000 miles and still getting around 40 to 45 mpg. I'm definitely not babying it any more but the majority of my riding is either backroads or in traffic so it's a lot of stop and go. Haven't done a long freeway trip yet so I'm not sure if that would give me better mileage.

I kept it under the 4000 rpm for the first 400km...finally could not take it anymore so now I am running it up to 5000rnpm for the the 500km or so...gonna break it in progressively...runs like a dream so far...put on my rear hugger and front sliders I got from twinshack...http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b129/drzdave58/versy5.jpghttp://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b129/drzdave58/versy7.jpghttp://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b129/drzdave58/versys8.jpg

I was told by the dealer that the only thing I had to de for break in was not to run it at the same RPM for too long (similar to what Timmsumm was explaining) and then get an oil and filter change at 1000km (Yeah we're metric in Canada) and that was it.

Any comments on this!!!

I'll give mine a good quick and progressive break-in by loading the engine to properly seal the rings, as explained here; http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm.
After a full warm up, accelerate through low gears at 1/2 throttle from 40% to 60% max rpm (4000-6000 rpm) and engine-brake down a few times. Drive moderately for 15 minutes, then accelerate through low gears at 3/4 throttle from 40% to 80% max rpm (4000-8000 rpm) and engine-brake down a few times. Drive moderately for 15 minutes, then accelerate at full throttle from 30% to 100% max rpm (3000-10000+ rpm) and engine-brake down a few times. Drive moderately for 15 minutes, then give it a good ride. Change the oil and filter after first day. Change it again at 1000 Kms (600 miles) and service. Switch to synthetic oil at 2500 Kms (1500 miles)...

I'll give mine a good quick and progressive break-in by loading the engine to properly seal the rings, as explained here; http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm.
After a full warm up, accelerate through low gears at 1/2 throttle from 40% to 60% max rpm (4000-6000 rpm) and engine-brake down a few times. Drive moderately for 15 minutes, then accelerate through low gears at 3/4 throttle from 40% to 80% max rpm (4000-8000 rpm) and engine-brake down a few times. Drive moderately for 15 minutes, then accelerate at full throttle from 30% to 100% max rpm (3000-10000+ rpm) and engine-brake down a few times. Drive moderately for 15 minutes, then give it a good ride. Change the oil and filter after first day. Change it again at 1000 Kms (600 miles) and service. Switch to synthetic oil at 2500 Kms (1500 miles)...

I am picking up my lady's bike on Saturday and then it gets the Motoman break in for sure. I have been doing all my bikes this way for a while now and have had very good results.

It's also how the owner's service manual for my Yamaha WR426 specified to break it in over about 90 minutes, after which "It is now ready to race." It's still running strong and burning no oil after 18540 Kms. Same with my Toyota which saw redline within 200 Kms, now at 140000 Kms...
Connecting rods also stretch at higher rpm, putting piston higher up into unworn sections of the bore.

Guys,

I've been breaking in my new Versys (got it a week and a half ago) and was told by my dealer to ignore the 4,000 RPM limit, but not keep it at the same RPM all the time. I've been taking it real easy and on my first tank of gas I got 47 MPG, that's much better than my F150!

As far as buffeting and windshields, I'm 6'3" and just set the factory windshield up to it's highest level, and that has made a big difference. I'm going to be communting with the bike and so am not real worried about highway buffeting just yet. If I ever do any touring, I'll probably pop for the CalSci version, it looks huge!

All in all, I'm thrilled with the bike so far!

Connecting rods also stretch at higher rpm, putting piston higher up into unworn sections of the bore.

You can't possibly believe that. I hope not anyway. Because it is absolutely not true.

i just got mine and didnt read the manual...im pretty much a novice.

Put about 100 miles on it

cant say ive red lined it but i have pushed it harder than i should have accroding to the manual.

Any advice? anything to worry about...

i just got mine and didnt read the manual...im pretty much a novice.

Put about 100 miles on it

cant say ive red lined it but i have pushed it harder than i should have accroding to the manual.

Any advice? anything to worry about...

Don't worry, be happy. Don't give it another thought. Have a great summer.

I broke in my new versys riding 900km in 2 days. I did what the guy from kawasaki told me to do...driving it like I would normally, but avoiding keeping the revs at the same place or staying on the same gear for too long (and of course avoiding the redline). We did some very curvy roads which was good to allow changing gears often and not keeping the same speed. Can't say if this was the best way to break it in...but it was fun After about 250-300km I did push the bike to 8-9000rpm once in a while during accelerations, but never kept it there for long. I have my first maintenance sceduled but so far so good. Couldnt help to try out the top speed at the end of my second run...195km/h. Not bad, but the best part is really the accelerations, this bike is a joy to ride and very confortable. I'll let you know if the pistons and rings need replacement at the first maintenance ;)

You can't possibly believe that. I hope not anyway. Because it is absolutely not true.

Yes it it true. Metal has elastic properties and can stretch, twist, bend, especially when heated... Connecting rods are subjected to very high tensile, compression and bending stresses which increases progressively at higher rpm's. This combined with crankshaft throw from primary stresses and deformations due to gas pressure and inertia forces does add up to a considerable but normal difference.
At any rate, I just put 231 Kms on the first ride with new Versys. I did the break-in progressively like I mentioned, varying speeds and loads often, a few 4000-6000 rpm runs, after a while 4000-8000 rpm runs, then by 100 Kms I was doing a few 3000-10500 rpm runs. I expected to just run it up to 10000 but it pulls real strong right up to redline in second gear. I rode till I parked it at 231 Kms and drained the oil... Now it's snowing again!! :mad:

I expected to just run it up to 10000 but it pulls real stong right up to redline in second gear. I rode till I parked it at 231 Kms and drained the oil... Now it's snowing again!! :mad:

I had a KX250 10 years ago but this is my first streetbike and I was surprised how much acceleration you can get from 65HP...I did a wheelie the first time I decided to really accelerate in first gear, only found out I did a wheelie when I felt the front wheel touch the ground..it lifted so smoothly. And in 2e and 3rd the front wheel stays on the ground but I'm just thrilled with the power you get as soon as 4-5000rpm...compared to other bikes that need to scream to accelerate...Very satisfied with this bike so far..oh and it just LOVES curvy roads!

I have a little over 3,500 miles on my Versys and once you have it broke in you can really have some fun with it when you open it up. This bike will accelerate as fast as you can twist the throttle and shift the gears. I've had mine up to 100 just to see what it had and backed off. With that small windshield that was fast enough for me. I backed off but the bike still wasn't done accelerating. It would have went faster but I wasn't on a racetrack.

100...thats in mph I guess? It does reach at least 120mph...when you rest your helmet on the tank :P

There's alot of ways to break in a motor, most would agree to not redline a new, as for me..... i'm taking it easy the first 100 miles, keeping the rpm under 5K, then i change the oil, after that it's under 7k varying the rpms till i hit 500 miles, change the oil again, and then run it.... the bike mechanic in my area is a trusted friend, he's states that if the rings aren't seated in 100 miles or so, then they probably won't, babying a new motor can cause that, but don't abuse it either, changing the oil early removes the assembly lubes and shavings out of the motor from it's assembly, I also heat cycled my V the first 20 miles or so..... get it up to temp, shut it down till just warm and then do it again, just rode it around the block to do this...... just my 2 cents on the subject

Hey guys,
I did a little bit of asking around in local shops and talked to a few very good local motorcycle mechanics who work at very well known shops in the area and they all seem to agree that for one, the oil that comes in the bike straight from the factory should be changed after about an hour of running because the "dirtiest" part of the break-in process occurs at that time when the majority of metal burrs and shavings end up cycling through the motor and if not changed the internals can end up receiving an aluminized coating from all of the spare metal flowing around, not to mention its just not good to have pieces of metal flowing around in your motor. When the oil is replaced, it should be replaced with a good non-synthetic oil and ran until around the 1000-1200 mile range in order to allow the motor to fully break-in. Switching to a full-synthetic to early can cause the rings to not fully seat because of the incredibly slick nature of full-synthetic.
Also, regarding the actual riding and breaking in of the motor, I was told to go easy on the motor for the first 500-600 miles for sure. Before actually setting out on your first ride the bike should be started and warmed up then allowed to cool to ambient temperature several times. This allows the motor to become used to the heat cycle which it will go through. It first thermally stresses the parts before physically loading and stressing the internal parts. Next, while riding the bike, you should feel out the motor. Most of the time you should be able to ride it up into an rpm range in which the motor starts to feel "tight". When that point is reached you should back off to a lower rpm for a little while and then gradually roll onto the throttle and bring the rpms back up into the range in which the motor initially felt tight. This should be repeated until the motor is "loosened up" in that rpm range. The key is being easy on the motor though. I was told that for the most part, as long as you are fairly easy on the bike for the first 500-600 miles then things should be ok. Especially with the way that the modern engines are built. Hope this helps.

It probably does do 120 mph but I wasn't gutsy enough to take it up that high, especially with the highways like they are where I live. There are actually some spots where you could get killed if you were driving through at night and didn't know the area. Lots of potholes and big gaps in between lanes. Big enough they'd wreck you if you went in them. The roads around here have ruined my car and it now rides like a piece of crap.

Jim

Here in Quebec Canada our roads have the reputation of being in a very poor condition...but you can always find a road that's smooth and safe. I hope you find yours :) But anyways the best part is the 0-60mph, so you ain't missing much :)

I just bought my Versys last weekend, but haven't picked it up from the dealership yet (I'm having a friend ride it home this weekend since my permit doesn't allow freeway riding) . Anyhow, my question is this: can you run Motoman's break-in on the engine with it in neutral, or will trying this without an actual load on the engine cause problems later on?

(I'm just trying to stay within the limits of my permit and not get my license taken away, since the Versys is not likely to get above 35 until I actually get my endorsement in August)

I just bought my Versys last weekend, but haven't picked it up from the dealership yet (I'm having a friend ride it home this weekend since my permit doesn't allow freeway riding) . Anyhow, my question is this: can you run Motoman's break-in on the engine with it in neutral, or will trying this without an actual load on the engine cause problems later on?

(I'm just trying to stay within the limits of my permit and not get my license taken away, since the Versys is not likely to get above 35 until I actually get my endorsement in August)

If you read the motoman method you will understand that the speed of the engine is not important but the load to which it is put under is the key. I would say you could do the motoman metha=od and never go above 40 mph. But you can not do it in neutral. You will never get the load you need for this method doing that. Go to the site and reread the whole break in procedure and then get it done right.

Yeah, never ever rev it with no load on, broken in or not, not even over half-way to redline... It needs to be under enough load to seal the rings, and still be able to rev up through the range without hanging it up. Second gear works well on the road with available air resistance at speed, whereas you'd use a taller gear on a dyno.

I rode mine like a crazy man from the get go. As long as you don't lug the engine too much or hit red line with it your fine and actually the harder you run the better. Also don't hold it at the same RPM for a long time, just ride it like you stole it.

I have owned quite a few four wheelers, dirt bikes, etc. and I will tell you from experience that a hard break in will produce more power and more reliability, every time.

Thanks for the replies. I wasn't actually able to read the motoman page until this afternoon. (I couldn't get it to load for me at work).

Since I'm having it ridden home for me, I'm going to have the rider run it up for me. It's about 50-55 miles from the dealership to home, so I'm hoping it'll do ok. I know I definitely plan on changing the oil as soon as I get a chance.

Here's to hoping I get my permit tomorrow:)

I bought mine as ex demo with 500 km on it done by the sales staff mostly who all told me how fast it was?
My running in for any new bike has always been no over revving or redlining and thats it. treat it like its made to be treated from start and bugger the no over 4000RPM rot.
Never had an issue yet like oil burning or smoke etc and most of my bikes do at least 50000 km before resale time.
what does the running in process suggested by kawasaki achieve really i wonder. I know its responsable for glazing of the bore on older ZX models and that sucked for the die hards.
you tell me the risks of just riding it as you do from start without any over revs.

To each their own right? I don't think it really matters either way, ..Myself, ive had 20 new bikes and 35 sleds over the years and they all got broke in the same..I make sure they are warmed up, never lug them to build heat, and just drive em normal. That always means to the bag withing 20 miles. If that..
I 've never had a dud yet! (well yes, bought bikes that were total duds.., but not mech duds..:) )
Will continue to drive em like normal.


heres one for u..hahaaa. U ever buy a bike with a few kms on it? How do u think it got driven I know when i demo a bike how it gets driven..:) just got a brand new 0 miles fz1 out this week and carefully broke it in for the dealership..yahooooooo.
No matter, I still buy em myself sometimes.

I just could not even imagine driving a bike like they tell u in the book..Would get run over or die of boredom! :)

yayaa...sorry..JMO...

I'm an advocate of the Motoman method. I read his thesis a few years ago and it made perfect sense to me. I've broken in three motorcycls this way with absolutely no problems. The first 20 miles are crucial. Warm it up, ride it hard, don't cruise at a steady speed, and change the oil & filter as soon as you get done (20-25 miles).

The short gears on this bike keeping it under 5k is next to impossible.

Okay, I just bought a 2009 versys. I read the different ways to break the engine in. However this was after 25 miles of riding it home. So today I took her out, I did the method that most folks suggested. 4K-6K rpms let the engine break, I did this 4-5 times and then rode for 15 minutes. Then 4K-8K rpms let the engine break and slow down did this 4-5 times and rode for 15 minutes. Last, 3K-10K rpms let the engine break and slow down did this 5 times and then went for a 30 minute ride. Got home let the engine cool down enough to change the oil. I placed a really strong magnet in the oil to catch any flakes, but I am not seeing any? Is this normal? Do I need to do the method again? Should everything be good after this process or do I still need to baby it for a while?

To start at the end: Don't baby it.
There is no mandatory amount of metal to be found in the oil. Immediately after first break-in is when you see the most, but if you don't see much or any metal, it is probably in the filter which did its job.

Doing the process again can do no harm, as long as you warm up the engine properly, but I don't think doing the process again is necessary.
I too think the motoman break-in method makes sense and I believe that after 20-50 miles of riding, 90% of the break-in of the engine is done. So after that there is no special treatment necessary, just ride it as you like it.

i just got mine and didnt read the manual...im pretty much a novice.

Put about 100 miles on it

cant say ive red lined it but i have pushed it harder than i should have accroding to the manual.

Any advice? anything to worry about...

Yes, you have wrecked the engine.... crate it up and I will give you $500 for it to take it off your hands..... Seriously and trust me, you did your bike a favour. All thesse other "break-in nerds" who have babied their bikes have done nothing good for their bikes... Just ride it and have fun....:p

To each their own right? I don't think it really matters either way, ..Myself, ive had 20 new bikes and 35 sleds over the years and they all got broke in the same..I make sure they are warmed up, never lug them to build heat, and just drive em normal. That always means to the bag withing 20 miles. If that..
I 've never had a dud yet! (well yes, bought bikes that were total duds.., but not mech duds..:) )
Will continue to drive em like normal.


heres one for u..hahaaa. U ever buy a bike with a few kms on it? How do u think it got driven I know when i demo a bike how it gets driven..:) just got a brand new 0 miles fz1 out this week and carefully broke it in for the dealership..yahooooooo.
No matter, I still buy em myself sometimes.

I just could not even imagine driving a bike like they tell u in the book..Would get run over or die of boredom! :)

yayaa...sorry..JMO...

:thumb: Same here had lots of bike and cars always broke in to my way of driving. All have been mechanically sound.:cheers:

They all get run and put on a dyno before leaving the factory. The majority of the break in is done before you get it.