I just did my first oil change and I took a few pics to document the process. It's super easy on the Versys, so even newbies should feel confident about chaning their own oil.

It's almost too easy to bother documenting, but it may help somebody...

What you need - fuzzy pic

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q396/hacktracker/Versys/V_OC_1.jpg


One 17mm Metric Socket
Oil filter wrench (take a new filter to the auto parts store and test fit if you don't have a collection)
New drain plug crush washer
New Oil Filter
2 Quarts of Oil (actually, mine took 2.35 quarts after draining the whole MotoGP race)
Torque wrench (or calibrated wrench skills)
Oil-catch basin
Funnel


Step 1 - Prep

Warm the oil so it flows easier.

Step 2 - Drain

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q396/hacktracker/Versys/V_OC_2-1.jpg

Place the Oil-catch basin under the drain plug and use the 17mm socket to remove the drain plug and let the oil drain.

Step 3 - Filter Removal

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q396/hacktracker/Versys/V_OC_3.jpg

Move the catch basin so it is under the drain plug AND the Oil filter base. Use the Oil filter wrench to loosen the oil filter. TIP: To keep oil off the exaust head pipe, place some aluminum foil over it and shape it to "guide" the oil into the catch basin.

Step 4 - Botton Her Up

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q396/hacktracker/Versys/V_OC_4.jpg

When your tired of watching oil drip out, it's time to button her up. Set your torque-wrench to 22 foot-pounds, place a new crush washer on your drain plug (hope it didn't fall in the hot oil) and install.

For the Oil filter, coat the O-ring with oil and install to 13 foot-pounds or "tight" if you're like me and have never used a torque-wrench on an Oil filter. TIP: fill the Oil filter with some oil to prevent a dry start.

Step 5 - Oil Fill

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q396/hacktracker/Versys/V_OC_5.jpg

Because of the awkward angle of the Versys Oil fill oriface, place the bike back on the side stand (if not already there). Place your funnel in the hole and pour in the fresh oil. When you're done, place the filler cap back on.

Step 6 - Etc


Stand the bike up and check the oil, add if necessary
Start the engine and check for any leaks (and address)
Document the oil change date and mileage
Clean up and properly dispose of your oil


Here is what came out of my engine...

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q396/hacktracker/Versys/V_OC_6.jpg

Step 7 - Enjoy a well earned beer

http://brewingusa.com/images/prod_400_beer_ipa.jpg

Nicely done.

Red

Great post, but it begs the question, who taught you how to pour a beer? The beer-to-head ratio is kind of low. :D :cheers:

What mileage did you do this at? Just wondering, as there is a ton of metal in that oil. I just picked my bike up today and put 100 miles on it, gonna change the oil soon.

With that in mind, does the Versys require a moto-specific oil with friction modifiers? Or can I run basic automotive oil? I really want to get synthetic in it, as I don't have a vehicle without it, but I'm gonna give it a few thousand before I go that route.

Thanks,
B-

I changed my oil at 595 miles. I'd expect that much metal during break-in. I used motorcycle oil, specifically JASO MA rated (during the warranty period). You can use automotive oil, just make sure the API Donut symbol on the back DOES NOT say Energy Conserving. Pick your favorite brand of 10W40 and have at it. Mine took more than 2 quarts so buy 3 just in case.

Nice write-up. The only tip I would add: If you are changing the oil on the kick stand, tilt the bike straight up or even to the non-kick stand side just a bit to help drain out the last bit of oil.

Very clear write up and photos. Nice job. This will definitely help direct and calm any newbie doing this job. My only correction would be that when draining out dark oil, you should have a darker beer to match:nono:

one correction - step 7 is actually step 1 ;-)

one correction - step 7 is actually step 1 ;-)

Perhaps it should be step b; as in 1b, 2b, 3b, 4b, 5b and 6b?

Is it safe to do this without a torque wrench...or do I need to go make another purchase...

Yes and yes! I did oil changes on my bikes for years without a torque wrench-but now I have one, I do 90% of wrenching with one.

You can use it for changing wheels, tightening the chain, loads of applications on the V.

If you get a torque wrench get a service manual. Think there is a down load on this site-if not PM me.

If you are in the US, try www.harborfreight.com they have a variety of torque wrenches. Then of course you'll need some big sockets 27mm/24mm for the rear wheel and some large hex/allen wrenches for the front.

Money well spent, but anything to do with bikes is right?

Machog

I am about to do my 10000 mile service but before I do I need to get the rear paddock. Well is there any thing I should do for the big 10 thousand?

No services are required at 10,000 miles. If you are nearing the one or two year in-service mark (depending on your country) you may want to check the owners manual for recommended yearly checks/adjustments.

thanks for the post. i am not a very hands on type of guy and i am clueless on most of this, part of this is just because i had never tryed any of it before.. I am going to try my next oil change on my own... this should help alot... but i think im missing the parts i need for step 7... i think i may stop and pick up what i need on the way home from work

Just passed 600 miles and ready to change out the oil, this helps big time. Heck with the pictures and break down I can start with #7.

Thanks

Thanks for posting this, it really helped me out. I've never done an oil change of any kind, but I wanted to try and your directions were a life saver!

Now the oil is fresh and it will sit under a cover until the spring thaw :(

lol! viewing from work the only pic that shows is the last beer one.

....so that means to change my oil I can just sit next to my V and enjoy a cold one... oarsome :p

bookmarked this one as a keeper

Mobil says their motorcycle oil IS different
(link at 'oil filter' thread) than automotive.

Good pictorial. I use rubber-covered gloves
if I'm on my way to a date (also helps if the
oil is hot, which helps get more dirty oil out).

Never thought of changing the filter more
often than the oil. What a slick idea!

Probably a dumb question but here goes: where can I buy a drain plug crush washer?

Any parts house should have one to match,
unless you want to make your stealership rich...

Edit: I actually have read dumb questions (not
to mention asking one or two myself) but you
have to work a little harder. The only dumb
question is the one nobody asks, assuming
everyone else knows and may leak by accident.

Maybe you could get some here. http://www.magneticdrainplug.com/Motorcycle_Drain_Plugs/MP01.html

Very clear write up and photos. Nice job. This will definitely help direct and calm any newbie doing this job. My only correction would be that when draining out dark oil, you should have a darker beer to match:nono:

Ah yes a dark beer before during and after:cheers:

Probably a dumb question but here goes: where can I buy a drain plug crush washer?

I've used the same one without any problems for the last 20 oil changes, just because it says crush washer doesn't mean you have to crush it.:D

Good point, Nortasaki; I ASSumed he'd lost or
damaged his... My bad. I don't change mine
either because most drain plugs really aren't
the old, 'crush' style but fiber. Those only
crush if you overtorque the drain plug.

It would be interesting to know how many people do replace them. I have never replaced mine. I figured I would replace it if it started to leak.

I have always used Mobil One Synthetic 15W-50 on my bikes, starting with the third oil change. (first one conventional, second a blend) I have never had any problems with it. Has anyone ever had any problems using auto synthetics on a wet clutch bike? Anything Versys or 650R related?

Hi Potus2012,

I guess it's a ongoing warranty issue using auto oil in our bikes.
Jap bike like their JASO oil rating.
Have so far not heard anything bad about them.
My brother used auto oil for his KLR for long time.
Had a BM so gearbox and engine were separate. Used auto oil for 288,000 km.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-386075.html
Read a discussion on the auto/bike oil debate.

Thanks.

Well, Mobil specifically doesn't recommend using their
automotive oils in bikes, for starters...

What do Mobil 1 Motorcycle Oils offer that Mobil 1 for cars does not? (http://www.eliteetc.com/howdomo1mocy.html)

Use Mobil 1 motorcycle synthetic works fine.

Using Silkoline Pro 4 Fully synt 15W-50. My V like her red Ribena.

Got some info on JASO oils and JASO approved oil list. Please read pages 2-4.

Thanks.

Thanks for this. Just did an early oil change at 200 mile. One question. I used Kawasaki Motorcycle Engine 10w-40 oil (about 2.3 quarts) and an OEM Kawasaki filter with new crush washer. I didn't have any tin foil to use as a guide and a little oil got onto the pipes. After letting it run for a minute or so, I'm seeing some smoke. I'm assuming that's just the oil burning off the pipes and will go away shortly, correct? When I tilt the bike up so it is level (not leaning on the kickstand), the oil level is right in the middle of the two marks on the sight glass....That IS where it should be, right?

yep.

:eek:I just did my first oil change and I took a few pics to document the process. It's super easy on the Versys, so even newbies should feel confident about chaning their own oil.

It's almost too easy to bother documenting, but it may help somebody...

What you need - fuzzy pic

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q396/hacktracker/Versys/V_OC_1.jpg


One 17mm Metric Socket
Oil filter wrench (take a new filter to the auto parts store and test fit if you don't have a collection)
New drain plug crush washer
New Oil Filter
2 Quarts of Oil (actually, mine took 2.35 quarts after draining the whole MotoGP race)
Torque wrench (or calibrated wrench skills)
Oil-catch basin
Funnel


Step 1 - Prep

Warm the oil so it flows easier.

Step 2 - Drain

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q396/hacktracker/Versys/V_OC_2-1.jpg

Place the Oil-catch basin under the drain plug and use the 17mm socket to remove the drain plug and let the oil drain.

Step 3 - Filter Removal

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q396/hacktracker/Versys/V_OC_3.jpg

Move the catch basin so it is under the drain plug AND the Oil filter base. Use the Oil filter wrench to loosen the oil filter. TIP: To keep oil off the exaust head pipe, place some aluminum foil over it and shape it to "guide" the oil into the catch basin.

Step 4 - Botton Her Up

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q396/hacktracker/Versys/V_OC_4.jpg

When your tired of watching oil drip out, it's time to button her up. Set your torque-wrench to 22 foot-pounds, place a new crush washer on your drain plug (hope it didn't fall in the hot oil) and install.

For the Oil filter, coat the O-ring with oil and install to 13 foot-pounds or "tight" if you're like me and have never used a torque-wrench on an Oil filter. TIP: fill the Oil filter with some oil to prevent a dry start.

Step 5 - Oil Fill

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q396/hacktracker/Versys/V_OC_5.jpg

Because of the awkward angle of the Versys Oil fill oriface, place the bike back on the side stand (if not already there). Place your funnel in the hole and pour in the fresh oil. When you're done, place the filler cap back on.

Step 6 - Etc


Stand the bike up and check the oil, add if necessary
Start the engine and check for any leaks (and address)
Document the oil change date and mileage
Clean up and properly dispose of your oil


Here is what came out of my engine...

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q396/hacktracker/Versys/V_OC_6.jpg

Step 7 - Enjoy a well earned beer

http://brewingusa.com/images/prod_400_beer_ipa.jpg
Thanks Don !! Just picked up a new filter at the dealer I just went over the 300 mile mark
today! I had a blast So. Cal in the Mellow boo mts. Old Tapanga cannon road to Mulhulland to the Rock Store for breakers then the ride through the twisties down to PCH
and home to San Pedro (Smell A Harbor). But I love it here.
Just a question do you here any clicking sounds coming from your V.?
I went to the dealer and they said not to worry
it was a normal sound. Thanks for the info for the oil change,
Top Cat

HackTracker,

Great job documenting this!! Was definitely useful to me yesterday...

It was very difficult for me to get the old oil filter out yesterday, even though I used the oil filter wrench. Called Cycle Gear here off Tryon Road, Raleigh and the guy was just closed for the day. However, he offered a tip that I'd like to share.

The tip is - Drive a screwdriver through the oil filter from about an inch from the outer end and wrench it out. You'll damage the old one....so use this idea only if you're replacing it. Fair Warning - Be prepared for the mess as you have a good amount of oil that'll come out! Hope it is useful to someone else in a pinch.

Cheers

Great tips/documentation everybody! I appreciate this forum more than I ever thought I would.

Quick question- someone had posted a magnetic drain plug- is this to pick up the bits/pieces of metal running through the oil? I haven't changed my oil yet, so is the Versys drainplug magnetic? Last one- a) INYO, do I need to buy a new crush washer for each oil change? Going to change it sometime this week, I'll post photos.

+ How "dangerous" is it to hand tighten my oil filter, opposed to utilizing a torque wrench?

Torque could be misleading if you don't oil the
gasket. Otherwise most filter manufacturers
specify an approximate amount of hand tightening
beyond contact. Too loose and you could blow
a seal and lose your engine. Most of us seldom
if ever change the drain plug gasket unless it's
deformed or leaking.

The service manual sez:

Torque - Oil Filter: 17.5 N·m (1.8 kgf·m, 13 ft·lb)
NOTE
○Hand tightening of the oil filter can not be allowed since
it does not reach to this tightening torque.

I guess the Japanese have weak wrists.

I have always used Mobil One Synthetic 15W-50 on my bikes, starting with the third oil change. (first one conventional, second a blend) I have never had any problems with it. Has anyone ever had any problems using auto synthetics on a wet clutch bike? Anything Versys or 650R related?
I have been using synthetic (Mobil-1) on my 1300 Honda VTX since mile 600 - it now has 34,000 miles on it. No issues with wet clutch or otherwise.

Is there a list of compatible filters for the versys? A.K.A. filters I can pick up at walmart, auto-zone, pep boys, ect....?

I use Wallyworld, have done for 4-5 changes. Only difference is the length, I use the longer ones-longer is better right??
WalMart SuperTech ST6607 2.5"
WalMart SuperTech ST7317 3.25"

Machog

I'm pretty sure the super-tech numbers you listed are the same I used on the FZ-1. If that's the case then filters from the Fz1 should fit the Versys. Correct?

If so, taken from the FZ-1 site:
Purolator Pure One PL14610
Mobil 1 M1-110
Bosch 3323
WalMart SuperTech ST7317

These should fit and save you a couple from the dealership. I always used the super-tech filters. Never had a problem.

Don't know if this will works on our Versys.
Read this in a Harley magazine.
An interesting concept though and Not trying to confuse anyone.
http://www.roguechopper.com/about.htm

I changed the oil in my versys for the first time. I am not a newbie at this, I do all my oil changes on my cars and motorcycles.

It was no big deal. I bought my '08 used with 800 miles on it. The previous owner had the dealer do the 600 mile maintenance and oil change - He gave me the receipt for proof.

I decided to change over to Mobil1 10-40 motorcycle specific synthetic. This oil change was done at 1700 miles. I did notice some small bits of metal in the oil - this is expect since the oil is double duty with the engine and trans.

The aluminum foil one the header pipe is a MUST - thanks for that tip. Once I removed the oil plug, I stood on the bike and moved it back and forth several times to make sure I got as much oil out as possible.

I replaced the filter - so I ended up putting approx 2.4 quarts back in.

With the synthetic, it seems a little easier to shift. I have been using mobil-1 in my VTX1300 for over 33000 miles with no issues. I expect the same results here.

This is a very easy task - any newbie can do it.

I replaced the filter - so I ended up putting approx 2.4 quarts back in.

Interesting......my V only takes 2 quarts to refill including a filter change, just like the stamp in the engine case beside the sight glass says. How long did you let the engine drain???

Interesting......my V only takes 2 quarts to refill including a filter change, just like the stamp in the engine case beside the sight glass says. How long did you let the engine drain???
My stamp says 2.4 LITERS dry. 2 LITERS with filter. I let it drain a good 15 mintues and I had just returned from my 20 mile work commute - so the oil was good and hot. Also tilted it 5 or 6 times back and forth. I did the tilting with the filter off - I had good draining from both the plug hole and the filter recepticle when I did ths. When I check the oil now - it is almost on the high mark on the window..

I put in about (a little less than) 2.4 QUARTS which is about 2.27 liters.

After getting quotes from a couple of dealers ($240 & $270), I decided to do the service myself. It took more oil then I expected a little over 2 1/2 quarts. I used:

Shell Rotella T 5W40 Syn oil
Bosch 3300 Premium Oil Filter


Cleaned the chain with kerosene using a Grunge brush followed by lubing with DuPont™ Teflon™ Multi-Use Lubricant.

The chain has play of ~1.6" (Kawa spec. is 1-1.4") so I'll tighten it a little below the max spec.

Inspections are next but the Versys is running great.:yeahsmile:

When I check the oil now - it is almost on the high mark on the window..


I've done about 6 oil changes now all with filter.

I never put more than 2 quarts in and it brings it up to about mid-line on the site gauge. I do the same slow drain as you, hot engine, filter off, rock from side to side etc.

If oil completely fills the site gauge when vertical, you may want to suck out a small amount. If it were me, I certainly would. If its on or below the top line, you should be OK.

Machog

I've done about 6 oil changes now all with filter.

I never put more than 2 quarts in and it brings it up to about mid-line on the site gauge. I do the same slow drain as you, hot engine, filter off, rock from side to side etc.

If oil completely fills the site gauge when vertical, you may want to suck out a small amount. If it were me, I certainly would. If its on or below the top line, you should be OK.

Machog

I've done so many changes on my VTX it is no problem putting back the exact amount - plus it has a handy dandy little dipstick. This was my first with the Versys / oil window. I should have put in the 2 quarts, then run the engine for a minute or two, THEN Checked the window. And added any more IF NECESSARY.

I will use my boat oil pump and remove a little of the excess. Thanks for the help!

At my last oil change I put on a Purolator Pure One oil filter (PL14610). It's longer than the Kawasaki brand oil filter and is suppose to be 99.9% efficient. It cost around $8.00 at Advanced Auto Parts. This will be the oil filter I run from now on. I also switched to Mobil 1 synthetic oil and my bike shifts so much better that it's like a different machine.

so i hate to ask the same question as before but where do i get the drain plug crush washer?

anyone know the spec on it?

thanks

dan

so i hate to ask the same question as before but where do i get the drain plug crush washer?

anyone know the spec on it?

thanks

dan

I buy it from my dealer. Costs about a buck.

At my last oil change I put on a Purolator Pure One oil filter (PL14610). It's longer than the Kawasaki brand oil filter and is suppose to be 99.9% efficient. It cost around $8.00 at Advanced Auto Parts. This will be the oil filter I run from now on. I also switched to Mobil 1 synthetic oil and my bike shifts so much better that it's like a different machine.
Same is true for my Honda VTX1300 - shifts smoother with Mobil-1. It shifts t he smoothest with AMSOIL - but I can't make myself pay an extra $5 per quart for that stuff. So I stick with Mobil-1 for Motorcycles. I found it at Walmart for $6+ per quart (10W-40).

Ok, so I did my first oil change at 200 miles and just did the second at 600 miles. Changed filters and crush washers both times and have used the Kawasaki 10w-40 oil. Should I really wait until after 3000 miles to move to synthetic? Just curious, and if so, why? Thanks.

I waited until I had 1,200 miles just to make sure it was broken in.

I saw one post that had the syn rotella. Anyone have feedback on the synthetic vs the standard 15w-40 rotella?

The only comment I got on the synth vs. dino rotella is with regards to my FZ-1. The Fz-1 drank both but shifted much smoother with the dino. Other than than there were no differences. YMMV

Ok, I just did my oil change. ~4800 miles, last change was at 650, but that was 1 month ago! Anyway, I took 2L out. Put 2.4L of Golden Spectro 20W-50 semi-synthetic in; not Quarts, Liters! This was with the Purolator Pure One oil filter (PL14610). I followed the exact directions above. Filled it to between the lines with 2L, started it & sight glass fills completely when running. Stopped it and the oil was not visible in the sight glass after 30 seconds. Put 0.2L in and it was back between the sight lines. Started again, same effect. Put another 0.2L in and this time when stopped it stayed between the lines. Have I over filled? This was all done on the paddock stand.

Try checking the oil on a level surface, not on the paddock stand with your engine warmed up-but off, holding bike vertical-much easier with two obviously.

If oil is between two lines you are perfect, if site glass is completely filled up you have a bit too much. If it were me, I would syphon some out until is was between the two lines.

Had this discussion before, I only get 2 liters in mine and that's with the bigger oil filter. I do it as described above and never had to top up. But some on the forum put .2l or so additional in.

Machog

I took it down of the rear paddock stand and it is still between the lines, but higher than when it is on the rear stand (almost touching the top lines, not in the middle like it is on the stand). I think next time I will do the change on front and rear stands, but I dont plan on removing any oil.

Thanks for the help!

Dude thanx for posting this it was a big help I changed the oil today your post made it really easy it was like I had already done it before. I bought a torque wrench just to keep it legit. Piece of cake again thanx! Seem to me like the local Kawi dealer would have charged and arm and a leg so DIY was a big money saver and easyas well :thumb:

Great DIY info and photos! Questions: What size oil filter wrench does one need? (I realize I can always get the filter and take it to an auto parts store--I assume they have them that small?)

Thanks!

I'm not sure, I have a whole bunch of them and I just kept putting the new filter in them until I found one that fit. You're right; it's a small diameter.

Great post.. seriously very nicely done..thanks for all the pics... Just story sharing.. i did my 600 mile oil change i was a little more hack... after running to three different stores on a sunday with no luck to find a filter wrench that fit, (and if course all the oil already in the pan) i had to resort to running a flat head screwdriver through the old filter and turn it with that to break the seal.. just be careful to be more near the last 1/3 of the filter so you do not hit the threaded stem that the filter screws on to. Also i do not have a torque wrench and i grew up my whole life changing my oil on the cars and my dad always taught me to hand tighten it and then give it a 1/4 turn with the wrench, never failed me. I had to wrap a rag around the new filter to thicken it up so i could use my wrench to tighten it. Yes if you have a torques wrench that is the total way to do it. I am just saying if you do not have one don't fret it will be ok.

From what i understand you should not use automotive oil, it will last a much shorter time.. I am no expert but i asked that question to my dealer, and he explained that the oil lubs the engine and the transmission, and as such motorcycle oil is different than automotive oil.. just repeating what i was told...

Thanks for the post

I use Castrol 10W-40 semi-synt oil.
2 liters and a bit

small tip - hold the bike at an angle, wait, drain, repeat other side - can often get a worthwhile extra amount of old oil out that resides in oil pockets etc. Same for every bike I've worked on.

Also not a fan of torque wrenches on anything not high tensile. for example; oil plugs/soft alloy. Even with fine/quality ones, dont get the feel if threads start to go. seen quite a few stripped threads over the years. Be careful with them.

I can attest this was a super easy oil change, although I'll forego the aluminum foil next time and just move over the pan and wipe off the excess. I wound up making a bigger mess but can blame that on user error. And I'm very glad I saw your additional oil usage as my local dealer only wanted to sell me two quarts until I insisted upon three.

The only other change I would make is to offer other options in step #7. I found that wine worked rather well and can imagine a martini offering a decent addition as well.

Thanks for your post!:)

Welcome aboard! And thanks for your suggestions, especially alternatives for step #7...

is anyone using Amsoil? hows that Working out? Thinking I am going to go this route on this bike just wondered if anyone else was using the stuff. I can personally testify that the Amsoil Brake fluid is wonderful and I would not go without it.

:openarms:You see ads for oil changes for $$ for up to 5 quarts of oil. My car holds about 3 1/2 quarts. If you ask for a 5th quart to take home they say NO. But if your vehicle held 6 quarts they would damn sure charge you for it.

Solution: I would go into wal-mart buy a 5 quart container of oil "was about the same price as 4 individual quarts" and have them change my oil and I got to keep my extra quart. After 3 oil changes I had enough oil for a oil change without buying oil. That was my plan of action.

Until recently

They said they would charge me more for the oil change if I did that. I ask Why. I never got a clear answer, but the clerk said a lot of people starting doing that, to get that 5th quart that we charged them for.

Now to be fair they would let me have the 1/2 quart left over in the last bottle.

Part II Wonder

Oil Change Only Stores

I like to see them pore oil in so I know what I get is what I paid for. I use Mobil 1 15000 Mi Synthetic $8.00 a quart. At some Oil change only places they have a hose going to what looks to be a 200 gallon tank. How do you know if you are getting $8 oil or $1.25 oil.

Just a comment about the auto vs. moto oil~ most auto engines have a gear driven oil pump that exerts the same type of "shear" pressure on the oil as tranny gears. Not sure why it is ok to use the oil in an auto but not a bike. Just does not make sense to my teeny little brain. But, the dealer has no vested interest, does he ;>)

is anyone using Amsoil? hows that Working out? Thinking I am going to go this route on this bike just wondered if anyone else was using the stuff. I can personally testify that the Amsoil Brake fluid is wonderful and I would not go without it.

Many use Amsoil as do I. You can get any Amsoil product for about 22% off US prices from http://www.woodsbrosracing.com/amsoil-online-store.htm with secret promo code if you'd like it. Enter email and state or province for instant quote.

Just a comment about the auto vs. moto oil~ most auto engines have a gear driven oil pump that exerts the same type of "shear" pressure on the oil as tranny gears. Not sure why it is ok to use the oil in an auto but not a bike. Just does not make sense to my teeny little brain. But, the dealer has no vested interest, does he ;>)

Most auto engine oils have friction modifiers (even some 10W-40 which are not 'Energy Conserving' rated) that may not be compatible with the moto's wet clutch. Auto oil pumps are timing chain or belt driven, and are not subject to vehicle propulsion transmission gears load levels. Moto oils are formulated to handle the wet clutch and integrated tranny.

Oh S%*t, I'm in trouble.

I throw any oil Wally world has on sale (correct viscosity) in my V and do so about every 3000miles.

Its only got 22k miles on it, so it probably too early for trouble, but I might put bike specific oil in next time to redeem myself.

Machog

Many use Amsoil as do I. You can get any Amsoil product for about 22% off US prices from http://www.woodsbrosracing.com/amsoil-online-store.htm with secret promo code if you'd like it. Enter email and state or province for instant quote.



Most auto engine oils have friction modifiers (even some 10W-40 which are not 'Energy Conserving' rated) that may not be compatible with the moto's wet clutch. Auto oil pumps are timing chain or belt driven, and are not subject to vehicle propulsion transmission gears load levels. Moto oils are formulated to handle the wet clutch and integrated tranny.

Was NOT referring to the "energy conservation" oils; but, as they say, you're money, you're choice. I like Rotella myself.

As recommended by Kawasaki in owner's manual, JASO MA: Japanese Automotive Standards Organization- High friction applications (wet clutch).

Shell's new formula Rotella T6 synthetic and Rotella T5 semi-synthetic diesel oils are now available for a reasonable price compared to motorcycle specific oil.
"We recently ran the JASO MA friction test on Rotella T with Triple Protection 15W-40, Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 (CI-4) and our new Rotella T6 Synthetic 5W-40 CJ-4. All three oils passed the wet clutch friction test. Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 CI-4 (now discontinued) has more than 1.2% ash (JASO MA spec limit) so it can not be classified as JASO MA. However, Rotella T with Triple Protection 15W-40 and our new Rotella T6 Synthetic 5W-40 CJ-4 do meet JASO MA."
Richard Moore
Staff Engineer
Shell Global Solutions (US) Inc.
Westhollow Technology Center, PO Box 4327, Houston, TX 77210, USA, 800-231-6950.


Shell's new RotellaT6 Synthetic 5W-40 CJ-4 (http://www-static.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/products_services/lubricants/rotella/rotella_t6.pdf) delivers 34% better wear performance on average compared to previous Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 CI-4... Rotella T5 Synthetic Blend 10W-40 CJ-4 (http://www-static.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/products_services/lubricants/rotella/rotella_t5.pdf) would be a good choice too.

Total base number is 10.6 for Shell Rotella T6, and 10 for Rotella T5, so the oil would be pretty durable and protective during normal and extended oil drains. Pretty good compared to Amsoil 0W-40 AFF's 10.5 like I use, and Amsoil 10W-40 MCF's 11.1.

Shell synthetic Rotella T6 specs (http://www-static.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/shell_for_businesses/oils_lubricants/1-52.pdf)

Shell synthetic blend Rotella T5 specs (http://www-static.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/shell_for_businesses/oils_lubricants/1-56.pdf)

Total Base Number (TBN) is a measure of a lubricant's reserve alkalinity. It is measured in milligrams of potassium hydroxide per gram (mg KOH/g).TBN determines how effective the control of acids formed will be during the combustion process. The higher the TBN, the more effective it is in suspending wear-causing contaminants and reducing the corrosive effects of acids over an extended period of time. The associated measurement ASTM D2896 and ASTM D4739-06 generally range from 6-80mg KOH/g in modern lubricants, 7-10mg for general automotive use and 10-15 for Diesel operations.

Was NOT referring to the "energy conservation" oils; but, as they say, you're money, you're choice. I like Rotella myself.

Like I mentioned, most quality auto engine oils have friction modifiers, even some 10W-40 which are not 'Energy Conserving' rated... Oil grades higher than 30W are not energy conserving rated because of their higher viscosity, not because they don't contain friction modifiers.

According to Castrol; "Note: The low friction characteristics of Castrol EDGE Sport 0W-40 make it unsuitable for most motorcycles that incorporate wet clutches in combined engine and transmission systems. Castrol’s prime recommendation for this application is Castrol Power 1 Racing R4."

http://www.castroledge.com.au/downloads/EDGE_Sport_0W40_463741_200808.pdf

Oh S%*t, I'm in trouble.

I throw any oil Wally world has on sale (correct viscosity) in my V and do so about every 3000miles.

Its only got 22k miles on it, so it probably too early for trouble, but I might put bike specific oil in next time to redeem myself.

Machog

I guess I'm in trouble too.....got 37,000+ miles on my Nighthawk, still waiting to fry the clutch and grenade the engine from using plain old 10-40 auto oil all these years.....sheesh!

Like I mentioned, most quality auto engine oils have friction modifiers, even some 10W-40 which are not 'Energy Conserving' rated... Oil grades higher than 30W are not energy conserving rated because of their higher viscosity, not because they don't contain friction modifiers.

According to Castrol; "Note: The low friction characteristics of Castrol EDGE Sport 0W-40 make it unsuitable for most motorcycles that incorporate wet clutches in combined engine and transmission systems. Castrol’s prime recommendation for this application is Castrol Power 1 Racing R4."

http://www.castroledge.com.au/downloads/EDGE_Sport_0W40_463741_200808.pdf

Like I said, your money, spend it anway you like; I will do likewise:D:D:D

I guess I'm in trouble too.....got 37,000+ miles on my Nighthawk, still waiting to fry the clutch and grenade the engine from using plain old 10-40 auto oil all these years.....sheesh!

Pretty much my story except I have been using whatever 15-40 diesel rated oil is on sale. When I had the Sporty and the Guzzi I used 15-50 Mystic for them.

I don't pay any more for my Amsoil synthetic 0W-40 as I would for Rotella T6, and I don't have to go out and get it...
As noted in post 74 and contrary to auto oil, Shell's Rotella T, Rotella T6 synthetic, as well as Rotella T5 semi-synthetic DO meet JASO MA's wet clutch friction test without exceeding 1.2% ash limit, and have a strong total base number.
What are you running in the V, mcrider?

Just did my second oil change today so thought I would finally look at this thread. I did my first at about 600 miles of hard break in (thats just how I roll). Today the oil was changed at 4000 miles (I know not many total miles, sorry I like riding my ST1300) :) . The oil pretty much still looked new but oh well.

I do have a question though for all your DIY Versys oil changers. Has anyone else seen the amount of metal in their oil as in the pics in this thread? I have not seen a speck of metal during either change. I have been riding and working on motorcycles (Japanese motorcycles) for a touch over 30 years (worked as a mech for Yamaha, Kawasaki and Suzuki) and I have NEVER seen that much metal in a "healthy" engine. Is this a Versys, ER6N, Ninja 650 thing?

Well folks, I finally have my very first street bike. It's a beautiful 2010 Versys that draws the attention of everyone. :yeahsmile:

Today we reached the 100 mile mark and she had her first dialysis. I wanted to do the 20 mile oil change like it says on the mototune blog, but didn’t have all the necessary toys to make it happen. I went for 10w-40 Valvoline conventional motor oil with a Super Tech oil filter. I also went ahead and bought the T6 Rotella full synthetic for the next oil change. Planning on doing it at 600 as per the MOM and stay on full synthetic from then on. I also replaced the OEM plug with a magnetic one.

As for the used oil that I drained out today, it looked very clean and I only found a very very small particle (visible to the naked eye). The color was still somewhat clear-golden and had a bit cloudiness but was still in very good shape.

Finally, I also had a cold one,,, OK I had two... :D

What About PureONE

If you're thinking you want to install a PureONE oil filter on your bike, please think again. PureONE oil filters are designed for vehicles, not bikes. Because of PureONE's high efficiency, the motorcycle oil pump may not be able to handle the pressure. The Purolator motorcycle filter line is designed to meet the specific needs of a bike; therefore we highly recommend the use of a Purolator ML filter over a PureONE oil filter.

http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/products/pages/motorcyclefilters.aspx

Thanks for the post! I have been changing the oil on my KLX since I got it, so I was hoping it would be that easy. With this type of oil filter, it's even easier.

The tinfoil tip was great, saved me a bunch of spillage when I removed the filter.

I'd also like to get a rear paddock stand to make the changes even easier. I had to rock the bike around to get all of the excess oil out. It's also fun trying to read the sight glass while holding the bike level.

I went ahead and removed the plastic side cover since it was easy to do. It's a good thing, too- my oil filter wrench was a little bit too big. Grabbed a silicone pot holder out of the kitchen to use as a shim. I wouldn't have had the clearance I needed for the big wrench- I'll have to pick up a smaller one.

is the oil level to be sight checked when the engine is cold, hot? will they read differently depending upon the temperature?

Quick question for some you experts out there...
I just did my first oil change at 400 miles with 10W-40 following a fun Saturday doing the Motoman break-in.
I have an unopened quart of 10W-50 from a few years ago and another bike. Instead of throwing it away, I'm wondering if it will harm the V if I mix my next oil change (1qt 10W-40, 1qt 10W50). Has anyone ever mixed 10W-40 and 10W-50 oil? Am I asking for trouble?

Thanks,

Wont harm a thing I mix 5w40 with 15w40 all the time and have even mixed 10w40 with 20w50, just make sure your current riding temps allow for a slightly higher viscosity.

is the oil level to be sight checked when the engine is cold, hot? will they read differently depending upon the temperature?


Doesn't matter, just be sure if checking it hot you allow enough time for the oil to drain back down into the oil pan.

what does the crush washer look like and where is it? all i saw when i changed my oil was a steel washer under the drain plug bolt.

Ummmm THAT would be the crush washer and it isn't steel, it is aluminum.

After reading all of the posts in this thread, I changed my oil for the first time today @294 miles. I appreciate all of the advice, hints, and discussions here. I had previously read a pretty technical article on oils @ <http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html> and already been convinced not to wait 'til 600 miles to do that first oil change. I was just concerned that the T6 Rotella I purchased at Walmart might be "energy conserving", but posts here convinced me otherwise.
What a simple procedure. The Versys oil change is a snap, compared to the change on my KTM, where the frame tube holds much of the oil. Thanks everyone.
ps. The calsci.com website also has advice on motorcycle break-in and also sells windscreens made specifically for the Versys.
And, no, I don't have any connections to calsci.

Question about the crush washer and oil filter wrench.

Crush washer, I understand that you don't have to "crush" it, and that you can get one from the dealer, but my dealer is 35+ miles away. I'm assuming this size should be at wal-mart/k-mart/advance auto parts/autozone?

Oil filter wrench, everywhere I go/see they have wrenches but all too large. Is this another dealer item, or could I get it somewhere else? Also, am I just being silly/noob and don't know of something else? Thanks.

I've been using the same crush washer for nearly 30k miles and 6-7 oil changes and you are right you don't have to crush it. The correct torque spec, its 22ftlbs.

Regarding an oil wrench, Walmart sells a great one made exactly for the Versys for a few $$'s, along with a great filter at a good price.

Either of these will do; WalMart SuperTech ST6607 2.5"
WalMart SuperTech ST7317 3.25"

Machog

Thanks Machog, is this the oil filter wrench you were talking about? http://www.walmart.com/ip/Performance-W270-Universal-3-Jaw-Oil-Filter-Wrench/14698290

I'm sure that will do just fine. The one I got was size specific, yours has the advantage of being adjustable.

Machog

If your not wanting to go to a dealer for the crush washer then you can go to an automotive store and get either an aluminum or copper crush washer. Both will work, just make sure you get the right size and don't torque the bolt too much

Followed these steps to do my 3500 mile oil change. Piece of cake. I have always serviced my own, and the Versys is about the easiest I have done. Great instructions and visual aids here made the job a breeze. I did fail however fail on the final step - did not have a cold one in the fridge! Damn it! A trip to the store tonight is in order - I need a Newcastle!:thumb:

Headed out to my local Wally World to get 1st oil change supplies.... They sell a Fram-made, size-specific filter wrench for about $3.50 (IIRC), it's a composite, 1/2" ratchet drive unit.

I got some Rotella T 15w40 conventional, and a SuperTech 3.25" filter for the 600-2000 run. Saw only single quarts of Rotella T6 on the shelf for just under $6/qt; but could've sworn I'd seen gallon containers on the shelf recently....

So I inquired with the auto parts / service associate, and he grudgingly agreed to 'check in the back.' Low and behold, out he comes with a gallon-size blue bottle of RT6, rang it up, and............$9!!!! That's right -- nine dollars. No wonder they're hiding the stuff in the back. I bought every bottle he had ;-)

My logic in running RT conventional for balance of break-in, is assuming / hoping the additive packages are same or similar, thus not causing any "confusion" during the switch to RT6. My previous choice for a 1st change oil was Motul 10w40 conventional.

Wow that is a great price. I run the synthetic 5w40, I was there today to get some $19.50 a gallon, great price. I also use the Super Tech filter, very happy with it. BTW, the T6 and the conventional are both now showing JASO-MA ratings.

Heh, heh.....yes indeed. Just to clarify my previous: I got the RT6 in 5w40 since I plan on doing a bunch of short trips with my V. Should help when the oil isn't at full temp. I would've gotten the RT dino in 5w40 as well, but they don't make it (15w40 only). Still in-spec per the manual though, and I *DO* live in Florida, where during the summer, engines are practically warmed-up just sitting in a parking lot.

Edit: What are your impressions of RT6 5w40 in the V? Shifting? Change intervals? Fuel economy?

I am happy with both the 5w40 and the 15w40, I run the 15w40 in my dual sports and dirt bikes and it seems fine. I have also used it in the Versys and it feels just as good as the 5w40 but I like to extend my oil changes so I stick with synthetic in the Versys.

I see no difference in fuel economy between the 5w40, Kawi synthetic 10w40 or Amsoil 10w40, I get around 50 to 55 MPG depending on my commute.

I used the excellent instructions in this post to change my oil today. The previous oil looked well used--perhaps the dealer that I bought it from never changed the oil. In any case, it now has a Purolator PureONE PL14610 oil filter and 2 fresh quarts of Royal Purple Max-Cycle 10W40 courtesy of amazon.com.

With regard to post #82, I chose the PureONE based on the excellent CalSci page recommending it: http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Filters.html#OilFilters

Normally, I would gravitate towards Pure One filters for anything, myself. I run them in all my cars; and all my motorhead friends run them in their cars. But their website specifically says NOT to use regular Pure One filters in motorcycle applications. Maybe it's a liability thing, using their product in an application other than intended..... I dunno. Perhaps if someone on this forum were to tap into an oil feed, post-filter and measure pressure with a stock filter vs Pure One (and others). That would be the ultimate test.

Great post and thanks for everyone's tips. I changed my oil today on my 09 at 600mi. Switched to Mobile 1 Synthetic 10W-40 cycle oil that Walmart had on clearance.

I tried to use the smallest Fram composite filter wrench from Walmart which didn't work well as the flange on the wrench was too thick to fit between the filter and engine case to really seat on the filter for good grip. I ended up punching the old filter with a screwdriver to get it off.

Also I used a small size kiddie swimming pool under the V to save the garage floor from my novice flinging of oil. I was glad I did!

Switched to Mobile 1 Synthetic 10W-40 cycle oil that Walmart had on clearance.

Check the back of the container, make sure the "wheel" - the round emblem does not say "Energy Conserving" in the bottom half.
Example:

http://www.know-yourcar.com/images/Energy%20conserving%20II.jpg


Energy conserving additives mess with your clutch.

Check the back of the container, make sure the "wheel" - the round emblem does not say "Energy Conserving" in the bottom half.

Energy conserving additives mess with your clutch.

Thanks for the tip. This stuff is motorcycle oil formulated for use with a wet clutch so it should be good, but definitely something I'll always check. Thanks!

Just did my first oil change on my '09 at 500 miles. Wow! Super easy! 15 minutes, start to finish--nothing to take off, easy access to drain plug and filter, nice! :)

I used a Fram TG7317 oil filter and one thing I noticed was that the 3.25" filter does put it closer to the exhaust header which I didn't necessarily like....I was thinking that has got to radiate some heat over to the filter...maybe not, I guess there is still about an inch and a half "air cushion" between the two....

A magnetic drain plug was mentioned earlier. I want to get one for the next change...is it a Kawasaki part, or?

Overall a very pleasant experience--it's great having a bike where this "chore" is so easily done!

RockyMoto, this is from a previous thread and apparently it's a 1044. I've meant to but haven't gotten one yet. Funny how it's easy to get the $$ stuff but not the more minor things.

http://www.magneticdrainplugs.com/metric.htm

OK. so i have not owned a bike in YEARS.. got the 2010 Versys a few weeks back. time has moved on, when the last bike i had was old and worth hundreds, not new and thousand of dollars. with that, i had a bit of concern about doing the change, getting it rght, warrantee etc. i dont have many tools as bouncing around the world saw me hand off things a lot as i changed countries. bike is a few miles off the 500 mark and i thouhg, damn it, have the dealer do it.. umm, hang on, i use the bike for commuting ( dont own a car yet as recently moved back to the U.S. ). you want the nike for how long.. damn, thats not goign to work, and you want how many $$ for this. ($140+tax quoted for 500 mile service, which is a fluid check, bolt check and oil and filter. to that end, off i went onto the forum and reading the manual.. this does not look like a task too hard for me. .. went to the local autoparts shop, got teh torque wrench, sockets, and oil ( they had 10/40 valvoline motorcycle), basin and filler funnel. but NOT a oil filter.. read here about different filters, and decided on K&N KN303, it has a 17 mm nut on the end so you can use same socket as the drain plug. took on the job this morning. all done and no problems except removing the original filter.. that sucker was on tight, but a good pair of wide mouth grips, some yanking and tugging and with a few dents and crushed sides, it was off.

anyways.. about $50 and 1/2 hour later (incl watching the drips and having a coffee) it was all done.

25 miles till i get to that exlusive 500 mile mark.. fresh oil and sunny days ahead, and 100 will be here anytime soon.

thanks everyone who contributes to this forum.. i would honestly be lost without it.

:thumb:
:cheers: ( task 7 )

So I changed the oil at 200mi,800mi with the standard Kawasaki oil.
This weekend I changed my oil to the Mobil 1 fully synthetic. Just turned 2000 miles on the bike. I have never used full synthetic oil before, I have heard people say a lot of good things about it, that even shifting get smoother. I'm pretty skeptical about all this stuff people say it will do. But I have to say for some reason my bike feels like its running smoother and I think it just made my Green V even faster:D

Donn

First, thanks for the tip about the foil. That was spot-on!

This was my first motorcycle oil change ever. I put a plastic boot tray (about $4 at Walmart) under the whole operation and had some kitty litter on hand, just in case. Thanks to the boot tray, I didn't need the litter.

You guys rock!

Cat

I want to change the oil before going to store the bike for the winter.
I called the dealer and asked what oil do they use: "Kawasaki oil"...but what grade? "Kawasaki oil"......thx...

I so I started to shop around ..
I found this oil and filter:
http://www.woodsbrosracing.com/amsoil/mcf.htm
http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?Code=EAOM103-EA

price:10.02 $/Liter and 15.86$ the filter.
the dealer was asking 12$ something per liter

What do you think about this?

I did my first change at 125 miles. Used the fram 7317 filter and filled her with Rotella T6. I did not find and metal particals in the used oil. I have had good luck with the Rotella T6 in the KLR for the past 3 years, so I plan to keep using it.

Mark

Check the back of the container, make sure the "wheel" - the round emblem does not say "Energy Conserving" in the bottom half.
Example:

http://www.know-yourcar.com/images/Energy%20conserving%20II.jpg


Energy conserving additives mess with your clutch.

Quality auto engine oils of W-40 viscosity and higher may have friction modifiers, but still aren't Energy Conserving rated... Oil grades higher than W-30 are not Energy Conserving rated because of their higher viscosity, not because they don't contain friction modifiers.

For example, according to Castrol- "Note: The low friction characteristics of Castrol EDGE Sport 0W-40 make it unsuitable for most motorcycles that incorporate wet clutches in combined engine and transmission systems. Castrol’s prime recommendation for this application is Castrol Power 1 Racing R4."

http://www.castroledge.com.au/downloads/EDGE_Sport_0W40_463741_200808.pdf

Just a note for those who like doing their own little projects.
I have several times for my own bikes,l cars, and for friends that asked, made my own magnetic drain plugs.
buy a magnet at a store, usually a dollar or so, and then attach it to the drain plug.
I use if the drain plug has no center dimple already, drilling into it a ways to make a recessed area.
If its a steel drain plug it will stick on its own. But I usually glue it anyways for my own piece of mind.
Its cheap, and easy, and works well.
Amazing how much junk you se stuck to it especially in a newer engine.
Just wipe it clean each oil change and reinstall it.

Arewethereyet...good idea, very resourceful! To play the devils advocate and to avoid putting a foreign object into the engine area(crank case/gearbox, or whatever)...how about purchasing 1 large magnet and magnetize the drain plugs by rubbing them on it. While the magnetic force may not be quite as strong and will only work on steel plugs, and your method works for you and your friends, I may try this route myself to also avoid drilling the plug. Thanks for the idea!:)

Hey, do you guys think that maybe putting a neodymium magnet on your drain plug might also help the street loops detect you at a traffic signal?

Just thinking...

Cat

Hey, do you guys think that maybe putting a neodymium magnet on your drain plug might also help the street loops detect you at a traffic signal?

Just thinking...

Cat

I really do not know the answer to that. But my guess is that it is so small, as to not help trigger the traffic lights.

Arewethereyet...good idea, very resourceful! To play the devils advocate and to avoid putting a foreign object into the engine area(crank case/gearbox, or whatever)...how about purchasing 1 large magnet and magnetize the drain plugs by rubbing them on it. While the magnetic force may not be quite as strong and will only work on steel plugs, and your method works for you and your friends, I may try this route myself to also avoid drilling the plug. Thanks for the idea!:)

That is a great idea also.
Been doing this myself for about 15 years, and not ever had one come loose, but yes it is possible.

These work well. :)


http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_133&products_id=873

These work well. :)


http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_133&products_id=873

Do you drill out the stock drain plug and epoxy in one of these magnets?

The reason I ask is - I bought a magnetic drain plug on-line a few months ago. I recently changed my oil, and swapped the stock drain plug with the magnetic one. I was disapointed with two issues - 1) the magnet was not very strong at all, and 2) even though the plug threaded in to the pan just fine, the hex head is english sized, not metric! So I'm thinking of making my own magnetic drain plug. I'm thinking of using that grey colored high temperature epoxy from the hardware store to glue in the magnet into a hole I plan to drill in the plug.

Do you drill out the stock drain plug and epoxy in one of these magnets?

The reason I ask is - I bought a magnetic drain plug on-line a few months ago. I recently changed my oil, and swapped the stock drain plug with the magnetic one. I was disapointed with two issues - 1) the magnet was not very strong at all, and 2) even though the plug threaded in to the pan just fine, the hex head is english sized, not metric! So I'm thinking of making my own magnetic drain plug. I'm thinking of using that grey colored high temperature epoxy from the hardware store to glue in the magnet into a hole I plan to drill in the plug.

What i did was get a magnet that was about 3/8 inch long.
I drilled a hole just big enough for the magnet to fit into it, and and about half as deep as the length of the magnet.
I then used oil resistant epoxy and glued it into the hole.

Took me about 10 minutes and cost maybe 1 dollar total with epoxy.
Stronger than a friends boughten magnetic plug he paid about $16 for.
I let the epoxy dry overnight, then reinstall the plug the next day, and refill the car/bike, or whatever.

What i did was get a magnet that was about 3/8 inch long.
I drilled a hole just big enough for the magnet to fit into it, and and about half as deep as the length of the magnet.
I then used oil resistant epoxy and glued it into the hole.

Took me about 10 minutes and cost maybe 1 dollar total with epoxy.
Stronger than a friends boughten magnetic plug he paid about $16 for.
I let the epoxy dry overnight, then reinstall the plug the next day, and refill the car/bike, or whatever.

Thanks! I will do this. :thumb:

My store bought one is just plain lame! :mad:

Do you get much "stuff" on the magnet after several thousand miles?

Thank you, this was very helpful! I just bought a 2008 Versys and LOVE it! I changed the oil on Saturday but mine required an 18mm socket for the oil plug. No big deal, just interesting that it was different.

What pit bull stand do you have? I am thinking I will have to ask Santa for one. :)

I know the Purolater PL 14610 works. I just removed one with my first oil change on the 2008 I just bought.

This thread is excellent and really helped me out. I had never changed my oil before and following this thread it was easy.

A few things I wanted to note:

Walmart is selling a Fram filter wrench that works on the stock filter and the SuperTech replacement filter
I wasn't able to buy the Mobil 1 4T oil at Walmart right now (even though we have purchased some there before), so I had to go to Autozone
Walmart has a nice cheap funnel and pan that worked well for me

I used the foil technique and it worked pretty well for me until I spilled oil out of the filter when I put the new filter on. :)

One odd thing is, I was only able to put two full quarts of oil in and the sight glass showed the oil at the top of the range. I let it set for a full day (I did pour oil in the filter and start the bike afterward), and it still showed full. However, after riding the next day, the oil was at the bottom of the glass, so I added some more.

I'm not sure what I did wrong there. Before draining the oil, I let the bike run for a bit, and then I let it drain for quite a while. If anyone knows what I did wrong (if anything), please let me know. :feedback:

I've attached some pictures for reference. Oh, it's always a good idea to make sure you're stocked on all of your vitamin supplements before you start such an activity. ;)

:thanx:

Sounds like you did great for your first attempt, good job.

You say you spilled oil from the new filter? You put filter on dry/empty other than running your finger round the rubber flange with a bit of oil to help the seal.

Mine always takes 2quarts when I do a oil and filter change. I warm up the bike with the new oil, turn it off, leave it for a few minutes then hold bike level. With 2 quarts mine typically is about 1/3 way up sight glass. Make sure you don't have too much oil in there, if site glass is full when bike is vertical, you have over filled it and should syphon a little out.

Machog

Sounds like you did great for your first attempt, good job.Thanks. :)

You say you spilled oil from the new filter? You put filter on dry/empty other than running your finger round the rubber flange with a bit of oil to help the seal.I poured oil in the new filter before putting it on (tip from the OP) and did run my finder around the flange with a bit of oil to help seal it.

Mine always takes 2quarts when I do a oil and filter change. I warm up the bike with the new oil, turn it off, leave it for a few minutes then hold bike level. With 2 quarts mine typically is about 1/3 way up sight glass. Make sure you don't have too much oil in there, if site glass is full when bike is vertical, you have over filled it and should syphon a little out.Cool, thanks!

Yep, keep the filter dry, you'll make a huge mess pre-filling it. It fills just fine once its screwed back on and the engine is running.

Machog

What a great thread. My bike is now two years old and I'm about to do my first DIY oil change. With previous bikes, after changing the oil and filter, I liked to be able to turn the engine over on the starter for a few revolutions (without the engine starting) until I saw the oil pressure light go out. That way I knew the new oil had circulated. Problem is that (at least with UK Versys wiring), if I throw the kill switch to 'off' the engine won't turn over on the start button. Does anyone know if there is a way round this? Apologies if this has been covered already - my search didn't throw up an answer.

Just a quick note of thanks on this thread.. With the help of my buddy and my dog and a couple beers we knocked this out in about 30 min. Only difficulty was that the oil drain plug, oil filter, and oil filler cap had all been installed by Hercules. :huh:

Besides that easy-peasy.

Though now that I'm looking back through I am fairly certain the MObil 1 I put in the bike said 'energy conserving' on the back.. So I'm gonna run it for like 200 miles and then just use it as a flush-ing change. (It's so easy and not much $ to do what the hey, you know?)

Anyway, thanks to the OP. :cheers:

Good thread for those who want the satisfaction of doing this very basic task themselves and knowing it was done right.

Just a few things I wanted to share based on oil changes I've performed on bikes for several decades...


I've never needed to replace a crush washer unless I somehow lost one (under an immoveable workbench). Never had any leaks. Just use a torque wrench and dial it in for 20-22 pounds, that's more than enough. On some bikes with thinner drain pans and less threaded area, I've used as little as 15 pounds and that's been sufficient. It's a drain plug, not an axle nut....e a s y does it.
.
Instead of the tin foil routine on the headpipes, it's been easier for me to just hit them with some contact cleaner or carb cleaner. Spray them down and let the residue drain into the drain pan. When it's evaporated there's nothing to wipe and no smoke when hot.
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Do prefill your filters as it does certainly get the pressure back up faster. I do this just out of principal with any engine that uses a spin-on filter. If you're worried about spilling some, don't fill them to the absolute rim....3/4 filled is good and better than bone dry.
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Oil change frequency......even if the manual calls for it every 7,500 miles, I would do it more often. With only ~2.5 quarts down there it's not a bank breaker to do it every 4,000 miles. And do put a new filter each time. I've seen some people change the oil every 3,000 miles but only replace the filter every 6,000.....and not drain the filter of the dirty oil within, contaminating the new stuff immediately. Engine oil and filters is not where you take $$$ saving shortcuts.

i love how accessable our plug and filter are compared to my previous bikes.

Question:
I let it drain, with a warm engine. I filled it up to about halfway up the sightglass. And it still looks about halfway when I park it and look at it after a min or two of getting off of it. BUT when I am on it, while it is running (like at a stop light), it looks to be full.

Obviously oil expands when hot, but do I need to compensate for that and drain a little?
:feedback:

Question: I let it drain, with a warm engine. I filled it up to about halfway up the sightglass. And it still looks about halfway when I park it and look at it after a min or two of getting off of it. BUT when I am on it, while it is running (like at a stop light), it looks to be full. :feedback:

That's normal when the engine is running.

I just noticed that Emgo oil filters are also available in Microglass 10 micron element. # 10-82232 (Motovan # 20-82232 at Canadian dealers)... Standard Emgo 20 micron oil filter is # 10-82230.


"EMGO‘S MICROGLASS OIL FILTERS STOP ALMOST 100%OF THE HARMFUL PARTICLES INSIDE YOUR ENGINE! REGULAR FILTER MEDIA TRAPS PARTICLES OVER 20 MICRONS IN SIZE. OUR SYNTHETIC MICROGLASS MEDIA TRAPS PARTICLES OVER 10 MICRONS IN SIZE DEAD IN THEIR TRACKS! WHILE OFFERING SUPERIOR FILTRATION AND OIL FLOW. OUR DYNO TESTING HAS SHOWN A HORSEPOWER GAIN! "

http://www.emgo.com/catalogs/filter-mirror-2010.pdf

[QUOTE=Machog;137815]Sounds like you did great for your first attempt, good job.

You say you spilled oil from the new filter? You put filter on dry/empty other than running your finger round the rubber flange with a bit of oil to help the seal.

Mine always takes 2quarts when I do a oil and filter change. I warm up the bike with the new oil, turn it off, leave it for a few minutes then hold bike level. With 2 quarts mine typically is about 1/3 way up sight glass. Make sure you don't have too much oil in there, if site glass is full when bike is vertical, you have over filled it and should syphon a little out.

Machog[/QUOTE
When I change the oil and filter on my 2011 Versys it takes more than 2 liters of oil to reach the 1/3 mark on the sight glass. The manual states 1.9 liters without filter and 2.0 liters with filter change. Also listed 2.5 liters needed with a dry engine. What are other owners of 2011 model Versys experiencing? Maybe the manual is wrong or there has been a change in crankcase volume?
I also have the bike sitting completely upright, even using a carpenter's level to check, when I view the oil level in the sight glass.
Answers and/or opinions welcome

Do prefill your filters as it does certainly get the pressure back up faster. I do this just out of principal with any engine that uses a spin-on filter. If you're worried about spilling some, don't fill them to the absolute rim....3/4 filled is good and better than bone dry.

Amen

When the engine is started with a new dry filter it is running without oil pressure until the filter fills. NOT good. The only lubrication the engine has is the residual coat of oil on the internal parts.

If you use the dry filter method listen to the engine noise level until the oil pressure builds. This may change your mind about a dry filter.

What convinced me to prefill the filter was watching the oil that I poured into the filter seep throught the filter and the level go down. I could just visualize the oil trying to get through that dry filter paper.

Just did an oil change today. Went shopping for oil, was just going to buy the cheap generic motorcycle specific oil but they were sold out. I ended up buying a 5 litre jug of 5W-40 synthetic Castrol car/diesel oil that was on sale. I've used this stuff before in bikes with no clutch issues.

Diesel oil is fine in a wet clutch system.

Agreed. :clap:

rgs


Many use Amsoil as do I. You can get any Amsoil product for about 22% off US prices from http://www.woodsbrosracing.com/amsoil-online-store.htm with secret promo code if you'd like it. Enter email and state or province for instant quote.



Most auto engine oils have friction modifiers (even some 10W-40 which are not 'Energy Conserving' rated) that may not be compatible with the moto's wet clutch. Auto oil pumps are timing chain or belt driven, and are not subject to vehicle propulsion transmission gears load levels. Moto oils are formulated to handle the wet clutch and integrated tranny.

Just did another oil change using this thread as a reference.....Halfway through filling up with new oil, my daughter distracted me, and now I can't remember if I put in 1.5 or 2.0 litres (am using a large container instead of small 1Qt. containers...). When it's on it's sidestand it looks empty, but if I tilt the bike upright, it's about 3/4 full in the sight glass.....What to do?

Do nothing! From what you said the level looked like in the sight glass you are at the correct level. "with the bike upright, off the centerstand, the oil level should be between the top and bottom marker levels"
Don't get distracted so easily next time. Or jot down amount of oil added before attending to another task.

I've tried various oil wrenches with varying levels of success. My favorite now is one of the rubber strap wrenches. You can get a large and small one at Sears for less than $10, and it works on all sorts of things you can't normally get a good grip.

Thank You so much for this post! I am a newbie at changing oil and I just bought my rear wheel stand and got all the things I need to do it. I must admit I'm a little worried that I will wreck something but hell I don't know unless I give it a try. This post will definitely help me! Thanks again for posting it!

Thank You so much for this post! I am a newbie at changing oil and I just bought my rear wheel stand and got all the things I need to do it. I must admit I'm a little worried that I will wreck something but hell I don't know unless I give it a try. This post will definitely help me! Thanks again for posting it!

Well I just finished changing my oil and cleaning my chain... and it was easy to do!! Yay for me!!

Right-On

http://www.playitsafedefense.com/uploads/Girl_Power_logo.jpg

Well I just finished changing my oil and cleaning my chain... and it was easy to do!! Yay for me!!
Now you are becoming more self-sufficient. Plus you have increased you knowledge base. If you keep trying/experimenting pretty soon you will know and be proficient in most of the things necessary to keep you bike in top condition.:exactly:
Congratulations!:thumb:

Now you are becoming more self-sufficient. Plus you have increased you knowledge base. If you keep trying/experimenting pretty soon you will know and be proficient in most of the things necessary to keep you bike in top condition.:exactly:
Congratulations!:thumb:

Yes this is my plan. I want to be able to take care of my bike - everything I can besides the real mechanical stuff. Next spring I want to try to wire in a power adapter so I can run a gps.

Thanks for the encouragement guys!!

Just hit 4,000 miles and did my first oil change ever thanks to this post. I've never changed oil before so I built it up to this monumental task in my head and it turned out to be ridiculously easy and gratifying. Used the 3.5" Purolator 14610 filter and Rotella 5w-40 synthetic oil after reading an obscene amount of posts. Wow there are a lot of opinions on what to use. The tip to use the aluminum foil as an oil guide...fantastic

Just want to give a belated thanks for this post for helping me overcome my fear of being mechanically ignorant.

And yes, I do realize this reply is about 3.5 years past the original post date, just understand I'm a very seasoned procrastinator.

"I'm-a-girl" and "tallchristian" - GOOD ON YA BOTH! The more you do yourselves, the more you'll enjoy your rides. :goodidea:

Does no one use a quick drain valve (like the Fumoto quick oil drain valve conveniently being marketed in the ad bar on the right)? I did a search for oil drain valve and didn't find much...

I've just done my first ever oil change and followed the OP advice. Sweet as a nut, and now the V is alot happier. It seemed pretty chirpy to me before, but now she's purring. The old oil looked like dark, opaque treacle - is this normal for used oil? I thought I'd done it sooner than the service manual suggets, with V on 5806 miles, but the old oil looked like boiled sh!te.
Anyway, thanks Lads (and Ladettes!)

You might want to consider changing the oil and filter more often than 5800 miles. I've heard the modern oils are fine for that many miles, but I'm thinking that the oil in a motorcycle performs "triple duty", ...by lubricating and cooling the engine, transmission and clutch. I use a motorcycle rated full synthetic oil (Shell Rotella - the Jaso MA rated one), and change the oil about every 4000 + miles or so.

Just hit 4,000 miles and did my first oil change ever thanks to this post. I've never changed oil before so I built it up to this monumental task in my head and it turned out to be ridiculously easy and gratifying. Used the 3.5" Purolator 14610 filter and Rotella 5w-40 synthetic oil after reading an obscene amount of posts. Wow there are a lot of opinions on what to use. The tip to use the aluminum foil as an oil guide...fantastic

Just want to give a belated thanks for this post for helping me overcome my fear of being mechanically ignorant.

And yes, I do realize this reply is about 3.5 years past the original post date, just understand I'm a very seasoned procrastinator.

Did you go with the PL14610 filter? I'm leaning that way after reading many, many posts, despite Purolator's claiming that it isn't a motorcycle engine filter.

Just bought 1 gallon of Rotella T6 at Walmart for $21.36 and the filter wrench (Fram FM101) for $3.26.

My thanks, too, to the many people that have contributed to this thread. :thanx:

Just did mine. Took about an hour with the clean-up and a beer:D:D. Next time will be shorter. I appreciate the write up. Mine took 2 quarts on th dot! Used a Purolator 14610 from Wally World. Used same crush washer that was already on bike.

Mobil 1 10W-40 Full Synthetic

Choppastyle

Changed my first oil at 180 and plan to do the next one really soon around 300. Have been using conventional oil, as well, for now. I've been trying to follow that break in guide bible I read.

Unless that washer is cracked... I've never ever changed one on any car or bike and I've done 100 oil changes. I think the motorcycle, I'll stick to 2000 miles, it just feels right. It's never a bad idea to keep her constantly well fed

Changed my first oil at 180 and plan to do the next one really soon around 300. Have been using conventional oil, as well, for now. I've been trying to follow that break in guide bible I read.

Can you post a link to the "break in guide" you mentioned? Thanks.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

A good read. Trust it or not. I tend to. It's not somebody tryin to sell a product, but a write up by a very experienced individual. I let it bother me now, that my bike had zero miles and while I did occasionally accelerate in 4th or 5th to 80ish, I had to drive home 50 miles and all freeway from the Bronx, and I never "seated" the rings. Well, I made sure I took care of that problem after this first oil change ;)