Just wanted to let anyone interested know that while NONE of the 3 Kawasaki dealerships around me (Florida) are able to get the "Special Tool" listed in my service manual required to do a vacuum synchronization (Pilot Screw Adjuster Kawasaki Part #57001-1603), I am able to get the Motion Pro Carb Adjuster Tool (BikeBandit) into position. You will have to cut part of it off with a dremel for clearance but it works.

Has anyone been able to successfully complete a vacuum synch on their Versys? This was so much easier to do on the R6!

I'll be doing mine soon without a special angled screwdriver, with the rear of the gas tank propped up a bit...

I am able to get the Motion Pro Carb Adjuster Tool (BikeBandit) into position. You will have to cut part of it off with a dremel for clearance but it works.

Which MotionPro tool are you using, the ~$25 angled screwdriver or the more expensive 90-degree geared-head one?
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I have the $25.00 tool. I did have to dremel about a half an inch off the end in order to get it to fit but once I did I was able to maneuver it over the adjuster openings. I haven't hooked up the carbtune but it looks as though I am going to be able to do it. I'm gonna go ahead and rate it a 4 bloody knuckles project considering I already have one trying to get it in there.

I also got the angled MotionPro tool but haven't used it yet. Could you post an picture or two showing your modification?

I'm apologizing in advance as I have a pocket camera. It takes great pictures of people put absolute garbage when it comes to close ups or action. These pictures are just the worst but you will get the idea, just pop a metal disk onto the dremel, pull the flathead bit as far out as you can and cut the end off.

Pardon my ignorance, but what is this vacuum sync thing? I am not mechanically inept, but have absolutely no clue what this is, sounds like something you would need on a carb motor...

Both TB's have a vaccum bypass screw on the back. With a vaccum gauge on the front synch fittings and with the engine idling at 1300 rpm, one screw is left shut and the other is opened more if it's vaccum reading is higher than the other, or turned in if it's vaccum reading is lower than the other. It's on page 2-16 of service manual. http://rapidshare.com/files/14466166/versys_manual.pdf
I haven't checked mine yet, but it was factory set with the right screw closed and the left open 3/4 turn.

I cut off the end of my MotionPro screwdriver today and did some tweaking. Now the Versys pulls away from idle very nicely thankyewverymuch.

Thanks to pversys for showing how much to cut off the screwdriver.

Anybody have a good link on making your own ATF vacuum guage? (actually, I bet google knows... google knows everything.. LOL)

Here's a 2 cylinder vacuum gauge set with individual damping and calibration control for $32.50... They also have turn signal mirror sets for $24.
http://www.sportingforless.com/servlet/the-71/Carburetor-Synchronizer-carb-sync/Detail

Just wanted to let anyone interested know that while NONE of the 3 Kawasaki dealerships around me (Florida) are able to get the "Special Tool" listed in my service manual required to do a vacuum synchronization (Pilot Screw Adjuster Kawasaki Part #57001-1603), I am able to get the Motion Pro Carb Adjuster Tool (BikeBandit) into position. You will have to cut part of it off with a dremel for clearance but it works.

Has anyone been able to successfully complete a vacuum synch on their Versys? This was so much easier to do on the R6!

yeah Clunky (Eamon of the heel guards) & SteveMersey amongst others have succesfully done the synchronisation on the Versys.co.uk site. Clunky even did a step by step photo guide which is documented there. both did it by removing the tank rather than buy a special tool

That's how I did mine too. I just ran it with the back of the fuel tank propped up, after removing the airbox for easy access to the TB's vacuum bypass adustment screws. I used my original air filter foam to cover the TB's inlets, and a level tube synchronization gauge with coolant in its hose... Right TB's screw remained closed, and left TB's screw was opened from about 3/4 turn to 7/8 to synch them at 1300 rpm idle as specified.

In case anyone wondered why the left TB's vacuum bypass adjustment screw is open, and the right closed to synchronise (balance) both TB's manifold vacuum:
Firing order is 1-2. (left cylinder is #1) Being a parallel twin four-stroke with #2 operating at 180 degrees crankshaft rotation after #1 over 720 degrees for a complete cycle. Manifold vacuum is higher on #2 as its intake stroke is after #1's intake stroke, and during #1's compression stroke. #1's intake stroke is after #2's power stroke, and during #2's exhaust stroke... Some parallel twin four-stroke engines such as Arctic Cat's Z1 1056 cc twin (Suzuki) engine with 360-degree firing order has both pistons travelling up and down together at two strokes apart from each other, with either cylinder in its intake stroke during the other cylinder's power stroke and so on, so the manifolds' vacuum are virtually balanced between the two. The Versys' vacuum is adjusted to be balanced (synchronized) at 1300 rpm idle, but the right cylinder's vacuum shoots up from idle until it stabilizes itself with the right at about 4000 rpm and higher. Therefore, the right exhaust header downpipe runs hotter most of the time within normal operating rpm's.

If you have an infrared thermometer you can check the synchro by reading the temp about an inch from the flange on each exhaust pipe. If they are very close to the same temp, all should be well and you have saved yourself a lot of hassle!!

Trying to synchronize vacuums on my bike, I've noticed that the screws can be turned no more than 1/4 turn... I guess it's not normal, is it ? So, with the right screw closed and the left 1/4 turn open, I get a good result, about 290 mm Hg on the left and 280 on the right... but to have it perfect I should open the left screw still a bit, and I can't... what to do ? Leave it as it is ? or try something before the screws cannot turn at all ???

The removeable screw has to be able to open more... Try squirting some WD-40 in it and work it loose.

Right TB's screw remained closed, and left TB's screw was opened from about 3/4 turn to 7/8 to synch them at 1300 rpm idle as specified.

Last did as recommended. Had used a twinmax to check the vacuum balance.
http://www.adventuremotogear.com/twinmax-p-28.html

Mine's coming due soon. Can anyone vouch for a good "accurate" tachometer that the manual recommends for this process or is the onboard tach sufficient?

Invader, does this vacuum synchronization have anything to do with the Config #1 vacuum mod; ie, connecting the TB vacuum outlets with a 1/8" tube? Does the Config #1 mod help keep the vacuum synchronized? What can I read to understand all this a bit more?

The onboard tach is fine. You just need to balance both TB's vacuum at normal idle speed, as close to indicated 1300 rpm as you can. Check and adjust idle speed after any vacuum bypass screw adjustment, then check vacuum balance again.
Connecting both vacuum fittings with equalizer tube is not a cure for out of balance TB's vacuum. It smooths out part of the vacuum pulse between the two TB's, and the inlet air pressure sensor input signal at lower rpm's.