My PC-V and Autotune finally arrived today. My Leo Vince can has an O2 sensor bung in it, so it looks like the whole thing's going to be plug and play. There are maps for an Arrow full system and an Akropovic slip-on, so I should be able to use one for a starting point, and the autotune will refine it. I'll have to disable the PAIR valve to make the autotune work properly.

I'll have to disable the PAIR valve to make the autotune work properly.

I would not need to do this. Do you have any documentation that states you need to do this for any particular result?

makes sense to disable the pair, since the o2 sensor should be measuring pure exhaust gas, not added o2 from the pair valve....unless the autotune specifically states to leave it hooked up. Worth a phone call..

It's called out in the install instructions. PAIR isn't necessary if no converter is used. It's to introduce enough air to burn off excess hydrocarbons before they get to the converter.

All of the install data is available for download on the Dynojet website.

Found a quick and easy way to plug the PAIR valve. Take the top cover off the air box, disconnecting the PAIR hose. Run a 7/16-20 tap inside the hose connection for 3/4". Cut a 1/2" long piece off the end of a 7/16-20 bolt and cut a screwdriver slot in the end, then screw it into the end of the hose connection until it is snug. Put hose back on and re-install the cover. It's undetectable from the outside, and the valve stays connected so the FI light doesn't stay on.

I got the installation completed and installed the map for the Akrapovic slip-on as a start point (I have a Leo Vince). First thing I noticed on the road was much better driveability. The most common complaint I've seen here is that the throttle response at low speeds is really sensitive and jerky. Mine was, also. It's now totally gone. Response is completely smooth, and shifts are also smoother and less clunky. Mid-range power is better. It's still analyzing the exhaust and correcting the fuel map, and it should be even better as I get miles on it and it learns more.

I'm convinced that this is the way to go.

since motorcyclesuperstore is sending me a $40 coupon, I'm gonna turn around and drop it on a pc V, too. HP, I don't really care, driveablilty, mid-range, oh yea! Glad to hear tis working our for U.

One neat thing about the Autotune is that I can go in and look at the changes it's made. It's presented as a table of offsets by percentage, arranged as throttle opening vs RPM. I'm surprised how much it has richened everything up, including just off idle, which is probably why it's a lot smoother now.

richened everything up...even richer than the akra map? does your leo have the db killer in?

How's the fuel consumption now?

How much $?
Thanks!

How much $?
Thanks!

I got mine from Indysuperbikes. Shop around. The Autotune module kit is extra, and is a bit pricey because the wideband O2 sensor isn't cheap.

richened everything up...even richer than the akra map? does your leo have the db killer in?

Right now, it does. I'll see if I can tolerate the noise without it.

I have an Arrow full exhaust system for my V which not installed yet. The Arrow system does have the bung for the WB oxygen sensor used with the PC V Autotune module. After reading many posts on the PC III and V, I'm convinced the PC V is the way to go. My problems is, however, that I have and 07 Versys. A message reply from Indysuperbikes indicates that the connectors for the PC V are different and will fit only 09 Versys. Can anyone tell me if the fuel management wiring is the same for 07 thru 09 Versys? If so, could I fit an adapter to plug and play, (if I can find one), or is hard wiring the connection a bad thing to do (warranty issues)?

From what I understand, the delay in releasing these was getting the harness connectors to enable the plug and play. In fact, the first install instructions required that the TPS (throttle position sensor) wire be attached with a tap connector. Now, they have the connectors for plug and play. As far as hard wiring goes, if I were doing it, I'd use something like Molex connectors to tap into the injector and TPS wiring. That way, the PC could be removed, and the harness plugged back together.

Progress report: I've got the dB killer out, and the autotune has modified the fuel map to compensate. Yesterday, I plugged it in to my laptop and pulled up the new map, then saved the autotune modifications to the old map. Doing this resets the offset tables to zero because the corrections are applied to the map I manually loaded when it was installed. Now, I'll ride for awhile and see what shows up on the offset tables, because the autotune is restricted to a 20% change, and I had a couple of points that were 20%. These were the areas that there were driveability problems originally. So it might correct those points more.

The more I play with this, the more I'm liking it.

I'm jealous, I bought a PC III and a full Arrow system this spring. Kinda wish I would have waited. However, the only factor that keeps me from selling my III and getting the V is the availability of free Dyno runs at school. That and the connector issue (plug n play), as I own a 2008 model.
Thanx for the updates. Very interesting.

I would think the plug and play are compatible between the years... no?

I would appreciate it if some of you PCVers would post up your maps... it would be fun to load them onto the III, see how they go!

Thanx ttpete, I'll check out the Molex site and see what I can find.

I would think the plug and play are compatible between the years... no?

I would appreciate it if some of you PCVers would post up your maps... it would be fun to load them onto the III, see how they go!

PC-V maps won't interchange with IIIs. They are in a different format.

I'll be installing a PC V and autotune on my 09 this weekend, and have a couple of questions for those here who have already done this install. The directions for the PC seem a little vague in a few spots. First question. Are the inputs for speed off of the countershaft sprocket, and engine temp off of the sensor required, or optional inputs for the PC V. Second question concerns autotune and is more lengthly. If I am reading the directions correctly, you install a map on the PC V that most closely resembles your setup. You enable autotune. You ride the bike, then hook up your laptop and accept the information from the autotune to adjust your "base" map. After doing this a number of times, the "base" map would be adjusted for optimum settings. Is this the correct tecnique? :confused: The literature also mentions letting autotune adjust the PC V constantly while you ride. Is this where a switch is required on the PC V. Any light you guys can shed would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

Yeah, vague directions alright, you have to read everything a few times!. Its all plug and play except for the bundle of wires from the O2 sensor that push into the Auto tune module for connection. Don't forget to block off the PAIR valve, either with a plate or use a threaded bolt plug in the hose from the air box as per ttpete's description. Once everything is hooked up and tank reinstalled start the bike up and setup software thru the usb connection. The rest is as you surmise, just accept the offsets after each ride to update the PC5 box. Enjoy!

Yeah I bought a block off plate for the PAIR system. Thanks for the response.

I'll be installing a PC V and autotune on my 09 this weekend, and have a couple of questions for those here who have already done this install. The directions for the PC seem a little vague in a few spots. First question. Are the inputs for speed off of the countershaft sprocket, and engine temp off of the sensor required, or optional inputs for the PC V. Second question concerns autotune and is more lengthly. If I am reading the directions correctly, you install a map on the PC V that most closely resembles your setup. You enable autotune. You ride the bike, then hook up your laptop and accept the information from the autotune to adjust your "base" map. After doing this a number of times, the "base" map would be adjusted for optimum settings. Is this the correct tecnique? :confused: The literature also mentions letting autotune adjust the PC V constantly while you ride. Is this where a switch is required on the PC V. Any light you guys can shed would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

You load the map and enable autotune with the computer program. This is done with the key off, the PC is powered by the computer. The autotune is restricted to 20% change as a default value. Every so often, pull up the offset table, then click on autotune at the top and accept the offsets. The offset table returns to zero and the offsets are applied to the fuel map. The autotune then has + or - 20% to work with again. Repeat until the offset table settles down, then allow the autotune to make minor adjustments for daily temperature change as necessary. No switch is necessary.

Don't worry about the other inputs unless you enjoy fiddling. It works fine just the way I described. I just tied the two modules down using the rubber straps under the seat.

You load the map and enable autotune with the computer program. This is done with the key off, the PC is powered by the computer. The autotune is restricted to 20% change as a default value. Every so often, pull up the offset table, then click on autotune at the top and accept the offsets. The offset table returns to zero and the offsets are applied to the fuel map. The autotune then has + or - 20% to work with again. Repeat until the offset table settles down, then allow the autotune to make minor adjustments for daily temperature change as necessary. No switch is necessary.

Don't worry about the other inputs unless you enjoy fiddling. It works fine just the way I described. I just tied the two modules down using the rubber straps under the seat.

Hmmm, ...loaded the software and map with key on, however ...my 07 would not let me enable Autotune unless the bike was running. Had to call Bayside performance where I bought everything and they indicated the bike had to be running. What ever works!

Thanks guys, looks like this will be Sunday's project.

Well I got the PC V and autotune installed today but I had a couple of glitches. First the O2 sensor wouldn't fit in the Leo Vince GP EVO II. The hole in the pipe wasn't large enough. Just a little to small, so it was off to Lowes for a tungsten carbide dremel bit to grind away some stainless. Got that fixed and then the PC software wouldn't load off of the CD because my laptop is running Windows 7. Luckily the software on the PC website installed OK, but the maps wouldn't load, again because of Windows 7. The PC V comes with a map loaded for a stock bike so I have to run that one and let the autotune adjust it. I already rode the bike once and accepted the autotune adjustments, so all is working well. Thanks again to all the gave advice prior to my install.

Well I got the PC V and autotune installed today but I had a couple of glitches. First the O2 sensor wouldn't fit in the Leo Vince GP EVO II. The hole in the pipe wasn't large enough. Just a little to small, so it was off to Lowes for a tungsten carbide dremel bit to grind away some stainless. Got that fixed and then the PC software wouldn't load off of the CD because my laptop is running Windows 7. Luckily the software on the PC website installed OK, but the maps wouldn't load, again because of Windows 7. The PC V comes with a map loaded for a stock bike so I have to run that one and let the autotune adjust it. I already rode the bike once and accepted the autotune adjustments, so all is working well. Thanks again to all the gave advice prior to my install.

You probably have 64 bit Windows, and that's why you're having problems. I use a small inexpensive netbook that runs 32 bit XP, and it's set up for my motorcycle applications, including the VDSTS diagnostic for Ducatis. I also have Street Atlas USA, shop manuals for the bikes, and Google Earth loaded, and take it with me on trips. That way, I can use it for anything I need and also get online anywhere there's wi-fi.

As a matter of fact, it is the 64 bit version of Windows 7...as long as I can keep accepting the autotune trim adjustments I'm happy.

makes sense to disable the pair, since the o2 sensor should be measuring pure exhaust gas, not added o2 from the pair valve....unless the autotune specifically states to leave it hooked up. Worth a phone call..

the pair valve only inputs air on decel...

the pair valve only inputs air on decel...

Instructions specify that the PAIR line has to be plugged. If an aftermarket exhaust without a catalytic converter is installed, this will help prevent popping during decels.

another cool thing about the PC V is that you can read your TPS voltages w/o any jumpers or funny biz. under "tools" and "calibrate" you can go to tps and w/the bike running hit reset, then blip throttle and you have your tps voltages. hit ok to accept, or adjust and repeat till you're good, then hit accept.

Ohhh that is nice!:thumb:

another cool thing about the PC V is that you can read your TPS voltages w/o any jumpers or funny biz. under "tools" and "calibrate" you can go to tps and w/the bike running hit reset, then blip throttle and you have your tps voltages. hit ok to accept, or adjust and repeat till you're good, then hit accept.

I used a marette (wire nut) and plugged the pipe connecting to the air box, then soldered the wires together. Easy as pie.

another cool thing about the PC V is that you can read your TPS voltages w/o any jumpers or funny biz. under "tools" and "calibrate" you can go to tps and w/the bike running hit reset, then blip throttle and you have your tps voltages. hit ok to accept, or adjust and repeat till you're good, then hit accept.

Just curious what kind of HP and torque changes do you see with this?

Just curious what kind of HP and torque changes do you see with this?

I've seen a moderate increase in power, and now that the lean condition has been corrected, throttle response and rideability are excellent.

I just bought a pcv and arrow full sys.- don't have the autotune yet. I was hoping to try a 08 ninja ecu on it also-sounds like it might not...plug in.

TRY THIS

put as TARGET AFR:

FROM 2% TO 20%, 13.5
40% as 13.4
60% as 13.3
80% & 100% as 13.2

The same for all rpm's, off course up from 1500rpm's, to not affect idle

Dont forget to check if pair valve is disabled

Keep me noticed
;)

ttpete: Did you have to calibrate your main throttle sensor at all to work with the PCV?
kurt is still trying to figure it out...

ttpete: Did you have to calibrate your main throttle sensor at all to work with the PCV?
kurt is still trying to figure it out...

It comes configured for throttle position.

Fire the bike up, let it warm up until idle speed is normal. TPS should read 0% at idle. If it isn't, recalibrate by going to DEVICE TOOLS - CALIBRATE-TPS. With the engine off, click on RESET, open throttle to the stop and close, then click on OK.

This is in the User's Guide that comes with the PC-V. If you don't have it, you can probably download it from Dynojet.

I'm in the process of understanding my PC-V... it's already installed and working fine but there are some things I would like to know better. Here you have some research I made with Dynojet crew, I hope it helps.

I get in contact with a guy from Dynojet about TPS Calibration because the manual says this:
"It's important that the PCV software TPS read 0% when the bike is fully warmed up and at idle. If it needs to be reset make sure the bike is fully
warmed up before resetting. With the engine off click on Reset, open throttle to the stop and close, then click OK."

I realized that this procedure was not correct and they told me that the manual was wrong... they say: "Ignore the instructions! Do the calibrate with the bike running. Click reset, grab the throttle and snap it wide open for an instant, then let go. Click ok." Do it very fast to avoid high revs!

I also noticed that the output voltage were increased when I installed the PCV and they told me that this is normal... they say too:

"You shouldn’t need to change the stock TPS values. The PCV just needs to know what the current values are."

"The additional wiring of the PCV to the bike’s TPS does slightly change the resistance load and thus the voltage reading, but we are talking about a hundredth of a volt here. This is not a big enough difference for the ECU to change anything."

As I change the TPS Sensor values when I buy the Versys (as recommended by the forum), I was just trying to verify the readings... now I have a TPS output reading at iddle of 1.069V and I thing it's fine.

I will keep accepting the trims... In my case, it looks like my bike was running too rich, now I have a lot of negative numbers on the Fuel Table. :thumb:

I'm in the process of understanding my PC-V... it's already installed and working fine but there are some things I would like to know better. Here you have some research I made with Dynojet crew, I hope it helps.

I get in contact with a guy from Dynojet about TPS Calibration because the manual says this:
"It's important that the PCV software TPS read 0% when the bike is fully warmed up and at idle. If it needs to be reset make sure the bike is fully
warmed up before resetting. With the engine off click on Reset, open throttle to the stop and close, then click OK."

I realized that this procedure was not correct and they told me that the manual was wrong... they say: "Ignore the instructions! Do the calibrate with the bike running. Click reset, grab the throttle and snap it wide open for an instant, then let go. Click ok." Do it very fast to avoid high revs!

I also noticed that the output voltage were increased when I installed the PCV and they told me that this is normal... they say too:

"You shouldn’t need to change the stock TPS values. The PCV just needs to know what the current values are."

"The additional wiring of the PCV to the bike’s TPS does slightly change the resistance load and thus the voltage reading, but we are talking about a hundredth of a volt here. This is not a big enough difference for the ECU to change anything."

As I change the TPS Sensor values when I buy the Versys (as recommended by the forum), I was just trying to verify the readings... now I have a TPS output reading at iddle of 1.069V and I thing it's fine.

I will keep accepting the trims... In my case, it looks like my bike was running too rich, now I have a lot of negative numbers on the Fuel Table. :thumb:

I never had any TPS problems. I also got a lot of negative trims. But the driveability and throttle response are just about perfect now. I suppose I could get some dyno pulls done to get an A/F ratio readout, but I doubt that it would change anything. I'm satisfied.