Just going over the bike,(2 days old).I searched and found no reference to this.The clutch cable and electrical wire package run through a 'coat hanger wire' kind of guide just to the side of the ingition unit.As I turned the bars side to side I noticed that the cable comes under serious binding during the process.It looks rather problematic.Has anyone noticed this?I am wondering if it should be removed.:eek:

Do you have a cable luber.


One of the best $10 you can spend. It may get slick enough to avoid any binding.

http://www.motionpro.com/images/items/08-0182.jpg

Just going over the bike,(2 days old).I searched and found no reference to this.The clutch cable and electrical wire package run through a 'coat hanger wire' kind of guide just to the side of the ingition unit.As I turned the bars side to side I noticed that the cable comes under serious binding during the process.It looks rather problematic.Has anyone noticed this?I am wondering if it should be removed.:eek:

I noticed it too. Clutch cable also squeaks tightly when turning handlebar to the left. There has been reports of the inner clutch cable breaking, as well as a case of a short in the wire harness. I'll have a good look at it again soon when I get back in there...

I noticed it too. Clutch cable also squeaks tightly when turning handlebar to the left. There has been reports of the inner clutch cable breaking, as well of a case of a short in the wire harness. I'll have a good look at it again soon when I get back in there...

Invader,I will appreciate your opinion on whether it needs to be removed or not,once you examine it more.I actually bent mine to different positions to see if that would lessen the binding,but no other position seemed to help.Cheers.......Lefty.

Invader,yesterday I made a mod to my clutch cable routing.Long story short,I used a large ziptie to pull the cable towards the bracket beside the ignition unit,after removing it from the bracket that it was in,of course.I experimented with several ties before I got the tension right.Now the cable moves right,with the wheel as it turns.Before,the cable stayed left,pivoting under the round shape of the tach frame.That seemed like a serious bind to my eye.Now it moves under the tach frame,and through entire range of motion it stays loose.It seems much better to me.Cheers............Lefty.

Haw Paw - do you have pics of this mod?

I had problems with the clutch cable binding. It would get stuck part way and then when I'd use the clutch - the clutch would dump as the cable came unstuck and snap the bike forward. Very disconcerting!

I lubed the cable and that solved the problem - but I also noticed the clutch cable is tightly packed in there.

Haw Paw - do you have pics of this mod?

I had problems with the clutch cable binding. It would get stuck part way and then when I'd use the clutch - the clutch would dump as the cable came unstuck and snap the bike forward. Very disconcerting!

I lubed the cable and that solved the problem - but I also noticed the clutch cable is tightly packed in there.

Sorry,I do not know how to do the pics on net thing.Best description I can give is,take left,(clutch lever side) fairing off.Look right to where key/ignition cylinder is.Right beside that is another wire type bracket that brake fluid line passes through.On that I used a large black ziptie,removed clutch cable from the bracket it is in.I gently pulled it over toward the ziptie passed through the brake line bracket.I played with several tensions,went through a bunch of ties.I slid the tie down to the base of the round key/ignition cylinder.I tensioned the tie enough that it pulls the clutch cable with it as you turn the wheel to the right.The cable slides under the 'tach' frame,barely touching it.Through the range of motion,the cable stays loose,does not pull at any point.Before,my cable stayed to left side of 'tach' frame and sort of twisted in place.My mind said that cannot be good.I also removed the ignition wire group from the bracket and unkinked the coil in it.I used a small ziptie to hold it up to the point of that bracket.It moves without placing tension on the wire also.I think it is much better this way.Time will tell.Hopes this helps,and is clear enough. Cheers...........Lefty.:goodluck:

That makes sense - I'll be looking at this today. Thanks for the help.

To post photos - the easy way is to get an account with an image host site like Flickr or PhotoBucket.

I like Flickr because they have a handy utility that you can download to help the upload photo process.

Then you create a new message here. On the spot on the message that you want to put a photo - click on the image button. It looks like a yellow square with a grey mountain and a grey sun. A dialogue box will appear asking you for an http:// address (aka URL). You get that address from your image host - they will have a link or button that says 'share' - then you usually have to find the button that says embed or link and you'll find the link. Copy and past that into the Add Image dialogue and voila! your picture should appear.

thanks for that info.I will have to get on that when time is available.We have a camera and my wife knows how to put photos on the computer.She loads photos onto vacation home websites for our vac.home rental.But that is fairly easy,you just follow the website instructions.So at least I am part way there.Thanks and.......Cheers.............Lefty. P.S. Ocean,please post what you think about the mod if you decide to try it.I plan to keep an eye on it,in case I missed something,and there is actually a good reason that Kawi designed it that way.:thumb:

I went in and re-routed the clutch cable. I used Haw Paw's suggestion and found a new route for the clutch cable that doesn't cause the bunching. If you look down at the cables below the instruments and turn the handlebars left and right - you'll notice the clutch cable bends at a tight U. The brackets that hold the clutch cable in place down allow the cable move naturally.

Here's a pic before I started the re-route. After I release the top 'coat-hanger' bracket - the whole assembly just popped-out, happy to be released from bondage.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3124/2588575812_57562257dc.jpg

This is the after pictures.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3268/2587741935_1c2c6b7da4_m.jpg

The clutch cable now has a natural bend and is allowed to move freely with the handlebars without causing any restrictions. While I was in there I battened down the ignition cable wires by cable-tie'ing the lower part of the cable to the wires running up to the left handbar. The upper half I added spiral-bind to it. This gives the cable more rigidity but keeping it flexible. Have to be careful that the back and forth movement of the handlebars don't cause fatigue on the ignition electrical wires. I found this setup allowed movement of the handlebars while providing the best isolation of the ignition electrical wires.

Additionally, I did not re-install the upper coat-hanger bracket. I took the clutch cable out of the second bracket down that you'll find it strung through. Instead I routed the clutch cable under the yoke. This provides a straight shot to the third bracket - which I left in place and let the clutch cable follow through.

This is the final assembly. Nice and neat - cables are free to move without binding and the ignition wires are neatly isolated.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3064/2588580192_6095bc8392_m.jpg

Ocean,
Looks like you did the same thing I did on the cable. I do find a bit of binding on full lock right. But given I don't do much of that it shouldn't present too many issues.

I need to go in and reexamine my fix.It may be that your solution is a bit better.My fat fingers find the close space a challenge to work in. Cheers......Lefty.

Ocean,
Looks like you did the same thing I did on the cable. I do find a bit of binding on full lock right. But given I don't do much of that it shouldn't present too many issues.

That's good news. I know I'm on the right track. I noticed that clutch cable had dimples in the outer covering where the cable was jamming against those 'coat-hanger' brackets. The cables on my F650 were free like the way I set up the clutch cable and never had a problem with it.

Checked my clutch cable this morning. What a poor routing!! I'm gonna reroute it this weekend for sure! Thanks for the advise.

I took the clutch cable out of the top clamp, and bent it in to prevent it from pushing on the cable when turning handlebar to the right. I also opened up the middle clamp to give the cable more room. It's perfect now.
My clutch cable starts a bit higher as it sits on my handguard mount... Here are pics of the tucked in top clamp, and the cable as it sits at full right lock, from the top and from underneath.

Invader - much better routing.

My advice on this bike is do what ever it takes to re-route that clutch cable. On my bike the stock routing was bad enough to cause binding on the clutch cable. Clutch action is much smoother now.

Looks better than all the way around the bottom. Will have to give it a shot.
Thanks,

hey Invader, I see you have replaced your bars. What did you replace them with? Did you have to modify anything to get them to fit?

Yeah I installed Tag Metal T2 tapered handlebars with Moose Racing tapered bar adapter/30 mm riser (available with 20 mm, 30 mm or 50 mm rise). It took some work to fit the adapter to the offset handlebar clamp bolts but it turned out good. I then added a 1/4" aluminum plate to cover the hole.
It would be a lot easier by using a swivel adapter/riser that would just fit in the stock clamp.

I also noticed this. I simply removed the upper coat hanger loop, bent it upwards 3/8" to 1/2" and re-installed. This helped to remove the kink when turning the bars.

Do you have a cable luber.


One of the best $10 you can spend. It may get slick enough to avoid any binding.

http://www.motionpro.com/images/items/08-0182.jpg

LOL you didnt read the post..............

I got my 2009 versys less than 3 weeks ago.

I notice the "U" or "n" bend as well on my clutch cable. I can't believe Kawasaki install the cable this way!

Will check and try to reroute when I get a chance ASAP.

http://images.paraorkut.com/img/graphicupload/tn/46ffba5b55a370e9518eed051417b3a3.jpg (http://www.photo-uploader.com/images/versysclutchcable,-461861.html)

here its clear ,its totally a kawasaki design mistake...look the clutch cable routing via red lines and imagine what happens when you turn left...in the red box, clutch cable is stretched extremely unecessary....

also there is a design prediction on the plate for this clutch holder .
in the small black box(klick the image) you see the holder in correct positioning on the plate. http://images.paraorkut.com/img/graphicupload/tn/cc1ba621e61bab7d983b451e1f069a19.jpg (http://www.photo-uploader.com/images/CORRECT,-446562.html)



and here you see how its by default,off the plate,and you can also notice in the small red box what happens to the clutch,its totaly permanently deformed...
http://images.paraorkut.com/img/graphicupload/tn/8da2242757dc68dab06aea279118e1d1.jpg (http://www.photo-uploader.com/images/PROBLEM,-446611.html)


there was a design prediction from kawa that got forgoten and the final product came missrouted...
p.s. the images are clickable , and the comments in the photos are from the greek community www.kawasaki-bikers.gr original post

I flattened down the upper cable clamp, and rerouted the clutch cable over it. I also opened up the one on headlight bracket to give cable even more room for ample bind-free movement:

http://hotimg25.fotki.com/a/209_196/226_80/ZVER-003.jpg (http://hotimg25.fotki.com/p/a/209_196/226_80/ZVER-003.jpg)

Full right steering lock:

http://hotimg25.fotki.com/a/209_196/226_80/ZVER-005.jpg (http://hotimg25.fotki.com/p/a/209_196/226_80/ZVER-005.jpg)
http://hotimg25.fotki.com/a/209_196/226_80/ZVER-008.jpg (http://hotimg25.fotki.com/p/a/209_196/226_80/ZVER-008.jpg)
http://hotimg23.fotki.com/a/209_196/226_80/ZVER-009.jpg (http://hotimg23.fotki.com/p/a/209_196/226_80/ZVER-009.jpg)

well done invader,i like your work.the results should be at least satisfying...