I was reading about the hassles of changing out the front sprocket so I went about curing the speedo error problem by changing out the rear instead. Before the change, my speedo was out (read fast) by about 9% and after a 3 tooth reduction 46 >43, it is spot on (according to GPS). No need to shorten the chain and/or special tools, just take off the rear wheel (one nut) and spin off six nuts on the sprocket, replace sprocket , do up the same 7 nuts , adjust the chain and we're done!!! no need for pictures.:yeahsmile:......lol

Did you find a steel rear sprocket or is it aluminum?

When you get a chance would you please let me know how many rpm's you're now turning at 70mph?
I'm at 5,000rpm at that speed and would like to spin it a tad less but still have good grunt.

Thanks,
Dan

Nice Scoot...You gotta a part # and supplier....Many Thanks...D

The sprocket I used is a Vortex 452AK-43 ....A= aluminum and K= black
JT also makes them to fit in Steel: # 478 -43 see their web page here:
http://www.jtsprockets.com/52.0.html?&L=0&sel_uid=1138&p=

Kimpex (Canada) sells "R.O.C." rear steel sprockets in 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46 and 47 tooth, as listed for EX560-A Ninja 650R. They're thinner at the core, and a bit lighter than stock... 15/43 is 6.98% taller than stock 15/46 sprockets, and 16/46 is 6.67% taller than stock. I found the 16/46 to be a bit too tall last year, so I just installed a 45 rear ROC with stock 15 front sprocket, for a resulting ~5% taller than stock, with taller 150/70 TrailAttack rear, close to 15/44 (http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/showthread.php?t=932&highlight=sprockets) (+4.55%) with stock 150/60 rear.
Scooter650- You now have to add about 6% to your odometer and trip meter to get actual mileage... Can your GPS track the actual distance covered, or just in a straight line between two points?

Good info..........thanks guys,
Dan

The problem with aluminum sprockets is that they wear very fast. I had a vortex black aluminum sprocket on my ZX6R and it only last about 6000-7000 miles.

OEM steel SunStar in 43T..

http://sunstar-mc.com/searchresults.aspx?All=True&DD0=STREET&DD1=KAWASAKI&DD2=KLE650%20Versys&DD3=2008-09

My GPS is always on my bikes so I use the speed on it if for some reason an accurate reading it needed. Yes a GPS will cover distance traveled not straight line distance. Good to know it can be corrected but did you notice any performance hit?

Scooter650- You now have to add about 6% to your odometer and trip meter to get actual mileage...

With the sprocket change, the speedo is now acurate,IMO if anything, the mileage put on so far is over by 6% and is now reading accurate. Both speedo and odo use the same sensor as far as I know......

as far as performance, I like it a little better since there's less shifting around town.

Your speedometer is now accurate. Your odometer and trip meter which were accurate with stock sprockets, are now under actual mileage covered by about 6%. You just need to add 6% to your indicated trip mileage, to get actual mileage. Mileage accumulated on the odometer up to when rear sprocket was changed, is pretty accurate. From now on, odometer logs about 6% less than actual mileage covered.

5-335645 sprocket for 45T. buy one now and get a free countershaft sprocket.
Sunstar triple-works hard ano aluminum.
same part # as the ninja 650R

Waited a few weeks for the 44t Vortex, which turned out to be for .530 chain :(

Just ordered a steel 43t, since so many of you seem to like the 2.8 ratio.

I'm more willing to try it with the rear 43, rather than using a front 16.

Probably another week or two, now....

I finally got around to installing my SunStar steel 43T rear sprocket earlier this week. No riding yet other than around the neighborhood a few laps. We shall see.

All I'm looking for is a less hyper engine speed at 65-70 MPH (I've got a nice long trip coming up that includes 600 miles of superslab.)

Went through our old sprocket box and found several rears from my youngest sons ZX6RR, everything from 39 to 46. After some experimenting I've settled on a 44 and it's the berries.
A tad slower off idle but will still wheelie even with the taller gearing and slightly longer wheelbase! :-)
It is more relaxed in high gear and that's what I was looking for.
I was gonna go with a rear steel but since these were used for dragracing they had very little wear and the Vortex brand looks great.........and they're free!
Dan

Here's a noob question, why change the front if you can change the rear and achieve the same result? What is the difference between 16/46 vs. 15/43 (as far as ridability)? Previously, I've read posts about how riders like the 16T front, if changing to a 43T rear is easier then why change the front (other than it gets you in the garage longer and away from the wife and kids)
________
Digital Vaporizer (http://digitalvaporizers.info)

Here's a noob question, why change the front if you can change the rear and achieve the same result? What is the difference between 16/46 vs. 15/43 (as far as ridability)? Previously, I've read posts about how riders like the 16T front, if changing to a 43T rear is easier then why change the front (other than it gets you in the garage longer and away from the wife and kids)

Two thoughts:

1) A rear sprocket can cost a little more.
2) A smaller rear sprocket would use up some of the chain adjustment (moves the wheel to the rear a bit. This may not be an issue if you end up with adjustment left when your chain and sprockets are worn out.

I have stock gearing. The only times that I've noticed high rpms in 6th gear, I've also noticed that I was exceeding the speed limit by about 30 mph. ;)

I prefer going to a larger front sprocket because it will be quieter and sprocket life will increase. Anything smaller than 15T with a 5/8" pitch chain is really a no-no. When chain wraps around a sprocket, it forms a polygon, and not a circle. The less angularity between adjacent links, the smoother the drive and the less wear on the chain and sprocket.

I prefer going to a larger front sprocket because it will be quieter and sprocket life will increase. Anything smaller than 15T with a 5/8" pitch chain is really a no-no. When chain wraps around a sprocket, it forms a polygon, and not a circle. The less angularity between adjacent links, the smoother the drive and the less wear on the chain and sprocket.

My offroad motorcycle (GasGas 280) has the stock 12 tooth countershaft sprocket and a 1/2" pitch chain. Most guys I ride with have replaced theirs with an 11 tooth! The chains seem to hold up fine for a dirt bike. Given that we ride in dirt and mud all the time we don't get near as many miles on a chain as a street bike.

I'm think I'm gonna swap my rear out for the 43 soon... whats a good sprocket to go with?
In terms of price and reliability...

I'm think I'm gonna swap my rear out for the 43 soon... whats a good sprocket to go with?
In terms of price and reliability...

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/5/85/18219/23271/PITEM/Sunstar-520-Steel-Rear-Sprocket-2008-Kawasaki-Versys-Parts.aspx

It was finally warm enough today to go for another ride with the GPS and compare the two trip meter readouts. I honestly did not do a comparison before the swap other than a speed differential so I'm not sure what the error was before. My tripmeter on the bike is now out 1% from the GPS tripmeter with the sprocket change done...So IMO I think everything is out of calibration with stock gearing....

The speed correction and -6% mileage error with the 16/46 sprockets was originally noted by other Versys owners in the UK forum... The GPS may be reading less than actual mileage covered, from counting between multiple points instead of following actual path around curves, and extra distance travelled up and down elevation variations. You might be able to check it between known or posted distances.

My offroad motorcycle (GasGas 280) has the stock 12 tooth countershaft sprocket and a 1/2" pitch chain. Most guys I ride with have replaced theirs with an 11 tooth! The chains seem to hold up fine for a dirt bike. Given that we ride in dirt and mud all the time we don't get near as many miles on a chain as a street bike.

You can go less teeth with a 1/2" pitch chain because the links are shorter and the angularity is less for a given tooth count. I owned early Maicos that used 420 chain, and ran similar sprockets.

Just about perfect with the new 44t vortex rear on, today...

Quick roadtest, and a couple glances over at a Civic with heads-up digital speedo in the next lane, confirms instrument correction accomplished.

Far better performance, and much smoother at highway speeds!

Found the upper rear shock bolt loose enough to allow movement in the frame. Might want to check yours!

I don't understand why people are having problems with changing the countershaft sprocket. I know some have found "overly" tightened sprocket nuts. The assembly person that put my countershaft sprocket on must have been a wimp compared to others then. I do have an air impact so I wasn't expecting a problem anyway but when I went to loosen the nut, I used a tie down to hold the rear brake, put the impact socket on the nut and hit the trigger. The impact probably didn't hammer more than five or six hits and the nut spun loose (and I was using my 200 ft. lbs. impact instead of my 450 ft. lbs. impact). It's much cheaper and less work to put on a countershaft sprocket. How about finding a buddy that has air tools to help you loosen the nut? I understand one advantage of changing the rear is more control (one tooth front is the same as three rear) but I don't think you have to be afraid of tackling the front.

I was reading about the hassles of changing out the front sprocket so I went about curing the speedo error problem by changing out the rear instead. Before the change, my speedo was out (read fast) by about 9% and after a 3 tooth reduction 46 >43, it is spot on (according to GPS). No need to shorten the chain and/or special tools, just take off the rear wheel (one nut) and spin off six nuts on the sprocket, replace sprocket , do up the same 7 nuts , adjust the chain and we're done!!! no need for pictures.:yeahsmile:......lol

OK stupid question time.

You have a GPS on the bike that shows acurate kph, why would you change the sprocket so your speedo shows the same when you already have a GPS that's showing the right kph anyway?

And now that you have changed the sprocket you have a 6% error in your odometer that you are again comparing with your GPS.

LOL, please I'm not being mean in any way but this seems a little......crazy. :)

fitz

OK stupid question time.

You have a GPS on the bike that shows acurate kph, why would you change the sprocket so your speedo shows the same when you already have a GPS that's showing the right kph anyway?

And now that you have changed the sprocket you have a 6% error in your odometer that you are again comparing with your GPS.

LOL, please I'm not being mean in any way but this seems a little......crazy. :)

fitz

Maybe he's like me and doesn't carry the GPS on the bike all the time. After I changed the countershaft sprocket I clipped my handheld GPS to my belt to check the accuracy improvement. And as to why change the gearing; I like many others changed to let the engine be more "relaxed" at highway speeds, the speedo correction was just an added/welcome side effect.

And as to why change the gearing; I like many others changed to let the engine be more "relaxed" at highway speeds.

Bingo. MUCH more relaxed engine speed at 70MPH for me. It's now truly enjoyable. Feels like I gained 200cc at superslab speed.

Completely understandable for those highway folks that want to put as many miles behind them in the best possible way.

LOL, but that's not what he said.

so I went about curing the speedo error problem by changing out the rear instead.

To each their own, if it makes him happy that's all that matters :)

fitz

If you dyno'd the same bike geared to the same final ratio, but done with two different combinations of front and rear sprockets for comparison, you'd get two different graphs. The smallest front sprocket would always give the engine more leverage against the rear cog.

That's why I prefer to change the rear, even with all needed tools available.

If you dyno'd the same bike geared to the same final ratio, but done with two different combinations of front and rear sprockets for comparison, you'd get two different graphs. The smallest front sprocket would always give the engine more leverage against the rear cog.

That's why I prefer to change the rear, even with all needed tools available.

Kinda sounds logical to me. Have you ever seen graphs that prove that theory? I'd like to see how much difference it really makes.

A lot of theory, charts, and opinion on the subject.... Here's a cool site to plug in numbers;

http://gearingcommander.com/

I've seen through-the-gears dyno charts supporting the torque advantage of same ratio, but smaller drive sprocket sut-ups. When I find them again, I'll link them.

All I know is the 43T rear is a keeper for my riding style. I can now do 6th gear true 70MPH freeway riding at slightly less than 5k RPM. Much more in line with what I want out of this bike. The lower 5 gears are still as snappy as I need them to be too. I wish I'd done this sooner..

Mack,

I was seriously thinking of going with a 44T on the rear instead of the 43T. You really think the 43T is where it needs to be eh? I thought the 44 would be a better medium. The other gears are fine then which was my concern as well. Hmmm, I guess I should lean towards the 43T now.

I tried several combo's but went with a 44. Using a 43 or 44 is so much better for me than stock since I like to cruise.

My choice was based upon lugging the engine in 6th ( I know I shouldn't lug the engine but sometimes I'm to lazy to downshift ) at around 45mph or so the 44 was a tad more responsive and off idle thru first gear was a little peppier with the 44.
While cruising at 75 to 80 the 44 works great for me.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it !

(Can't go wrong with a 43 or 44)

Dan

Mack,

I was seriously thinking of going with a 44T on the rear instead of the 43T. You really think the 43T is where it needs to be eh? I thought the 44 would be a better medium. The other gears are fine then which was my concern as well. Hmmm, I guess I should lean towards the 43T now.

Truthfully as Dan stated you can't go wrong either way. I just happen to get the 43T as it's steel. If SunStar had a 44T steel I'd have probably went that route. Still very happy with the 43T as 6th gear is now truly an overdrive gear for me intended for 62+ MPH. That I like.

I had to do something, as I've got a fairly long trip planned for the end of June that will include approx 600 miles of slab roundtrip. No way was I going to do this ride with the stock gearing.. at all!

I tried the 16/46 (+6.67%) setup last year, which is almost as tall as 15/43 (+6.98%). I prefer my actual 15/45 (ROC steel) now with my slightly taller 150/70 rear, which gives me a ratio (+5%) just a tad taller than 15/44 (+4.55%). There are steel 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46 and 47 tooth ROC sprockets available in Canada from Kimpex through motorcycle dealers for about $40, but they don't seem to be available in the states...

If anyone in USA or other wants an ROC 44T steel rear sprocket or any size between 39 and 47 tooth, I could mail one out for about $50 USD including shipping and everything...

I was reading about the hassles of changing out the front sprocket so I went about curing the speedo error problem by changing out the rear instead. Before the change, my speedo was out (read fast) by about 9% and after a 3 tooth reduction 46 >43, it is spot on (according to GPS). No need to shorten the chain and/or special tools, just take off the rear wheel (one nut) and spin off six nuts on the sprocket, replace sprocket , do up the same 7 nuts , adjust the chain and we're done!!! no need for pictures.:yeahsmile:......lol

What is the big hassle of removing the countershaft sprocket? Seems like bumping this up 1 tooth would be the thing to do to lower highway rpm's?

I tried the 16/46 (+6.67%) setup last year, which is almost as tall as 15/43 (+6.98%). I prefer my actual 15/45 (ROC steel) now...

I thought the teeth numbers in front and rear sprocket should be coprime, so the chain links/sprocket tooth combination won't be repeated as much, and
thus averaged some wear and tear. Am I wrong?

Cheers,
Arvino

I just put on a Sunstar 43 and what a dif...No more rowing the piss out of the V...Off the line grunt? Still seems the same to me, have to add a tad more gas but nothing to even think about...And Hallelujah no more looking for 7th gear:D

I thought the teeth numbers in front and rear sprocket should be coprime, so the chain links/sprocket tooth combination won't be repeated as much, and
thus averaged some wear and tear. Am I wrong?

Cheers,
Arvino

I actually had more wear on the inside of front sprocket with an even number of teeth (16, and without damper) from having the chain plates always at the same friction points, leaving defined chain marks on it. I suppose it's better to have an odd numbered rear sprocket as well (45), but not nearly to the same degree. As for having my 15 front rotate exactly 3 times as often as my 45 rear, it doesn't seem to affect anything or create any weird harmonics...

I thought the teeth numbers in front and rear sprocket should be coprime, so the chain links/sprocket tooth combination won't be repeated as much, and
thus averaged some wear and tear. Am I wrong?

Cheers,
Arvino

You're correct. It's known as a "hunting tooth" setup, and is more common in gearing than in chain drives. The old Triumph engines use it, and once you line up all the timing gear marks, it takes 20 crank revolutions before they all line up again.