hi guys. it is time to change my air filter and i would like to get something aftermarket. are there any of you who have installed a performance filter? which one do you guys think is the best for the V?

I got a Pipercross (http://www.pipercross.net/motorcycle/products.asp) (UK) foam air filter for better fine dust protection than pleated cotton gauze filters. Pipercross # MPX113 (http://www.pipercross.net/motorcycle/applications.asp?m1=9&m2=186)
You can get it from Pashnit Moto (http://www.pashnit.com/product/pipercross.html#buynow) for $76.99. By the way, I use Maxima's excellent Fab-1 (http://www.maximausa.com/products/filteroils/filterspray.asp) synthetic air filter oil.

pashnit is well known for having group buys....i wonder if there is enough interest to get 10 people to buy one?

Stick with stock. Change it more often, if you are worried.

I've got a DNA. Works fine. Nice quality. Like a K&N.

that's what i am talking about. I wanted to make sure that there are no bad effects from the DNA. like for example K&N won't work on a honda 919,929,954. it fits but the bike won't run.

Stick with stock. Change it more often, if you are worried.

I'm glad someone said that, however unless it's torn there's no need to change it, just clean it.

I'm glad someone said that, however unless it's torn there's no need to change it, just clean it.

clean it? as in just bang the dust out of it? wash it with water and let it dry? or oil it? or some combination of the above?

i rather get a new stock one than clean it. it is not that expansive and if you got money for brand new bike, then youve got to be able to get a new air filter. i think im gonna go with the DNA this time. see if it makes a difference.

clean it? as in just bang the dust out of it? wash it with water and let it dry? or oil it? or some combination of the above?

Some guys use dish soap and wash it in water. K&N sells a cleaning kit with a spray on cleaner, you let it sit for a couple of minutes then rinse it under the tap. When the filter is dry, re-oil it with the oil in the kit. The filter is designed to be cleaned, so in no way is this the poor man's way of dealing with the situation (in reference to the post above).

clean it? as in just bang the dust out of it? wash it with water and let it dry? or oil it? or some combination of the above?

When I cleaned mine, I followed the instructions given in the 2007 Versys service manual: clean with a high volatility petroleum-based solvent, blow dry, and re-oil with SAE30 oil.

I think the stock filters are pretty darn free flowing. I went with a DNA because I thought it had better filtration. The stock is a very thin porous foam.

I think the stock filters are pretty darn free flowing. I went with a DNA because I thought it had better filtration. The stock is a very thin porous foam.

I think they changed it for 2008. Mine looks like this (well, it's cleaner now :D ):

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/ozyran/Bike%20Maintenance/Spark%20Plugs/P2060031.jpg

The filter material is the thickness of the bracket.

It might be a U.S.-only filter, I dunno honestly.

My original 2007 Canadian filter was just like yours with a steel mesh on the other side. My Pipercross filter is considerably less restrictive... Replacing the 1-1/2" ID inlets with 1-7/8" ID (56% more surface area) reinforced rubber hose, grooved to fit snuggly in the airbox's stock rounded rectangular holes made a big difference too.

http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/9741/airbox008om1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Opinions notwithstanding, does anyone know if there have
been any scientific tests done for particulate size and flow?

I used K&N for many years to good effect, but I was working
as a auto mechanic and kept them properly serviced. I've
since heard some disparaging remarks but without backup
data it sounds more like opinion than proof.

Next to quality oil filters, air filters are probably one of the
least appreciated aspects of keeping an engine healthy.
Compares to tire pressure; often overlooked...

Geez, I must have had a faulty stock filter. I could see light through some of the pores. I didn't like that at all. Your larger air inlets are looking good. Were you to do it again, would you still insulate your box?

I did insulate it, and yes I would do it again... That pic shows the box just before I also added the insulating foam tape to the front/bottom portion.

So what was the purpose of insulating the air box?? was this for sound damping??

I think the stock filters are pretty darn free flowing. I went with a DNA because I thought it had better filtration. The stock is a very thin porous foam.

So were did ya source your dna filter from?

So were did ya source your dna filter from?

Wrote these guys. http://www.alternatecycle.com/parts.html They are in Kamloops, and are the only Canadian dealer... or at least the only one listed on the DNA website. I think it was ~$100 with shipping.

Wrote these guys. http://www.alternatecycle.com/parts.html They are in Kamloops, and are the only Canadian dealer... or at least the only one listed on the DNA website. I think it was ~$100 with shipping.

Great.....thanks Bud, :thumb:

hey Invader, very innovative on the radiator hose mod! I suppose you could groove the hose with a dremel. Is that how you did it? is the airbox any noisier because of the mod?

So what was the purpose of insulating the air box?? was this for sound damping??

I heat insulated the airbox as it sits on top of the hot engine's head, to lower intake air temperature. It probably doesn't make it much quieter...

Tomla- I used a tire grooving iron to groove the hose, but I suppose it could be done with a dremel... The airbox is a bit noisier at higher speeds, especially at WOT. I like the sound though, and I did gain a lot on top end power and about 5 mph higher top speed. It also seems to have curbed the rich high rpm A/F ratio a bit.

I'm sure it works well, but let's just say, it's a good thing no one can see it. (no offence)

Insulated airbox is a bit more presentable now that I painted the white heat insulation flat black. The pipe insulation has aluminum sheet on top. You can't see it when it's installed... Yeah, it's still winter here:
http://hotimg25.fotki.com/a/66_186/75_40/airbox-017.jpg (http://hotimg25.fotki.com/p/a/66_186/75_40/airbox-017.jpg)

This is an old thread, but it's related to the questions I was going to ask, so I'll tag it on here. I haven't been able to find a K&N air filter that fits the V. Does anyone know if they make it and where I could get one? Are the DNA filters similar to the K&N? Where's a good place in the US to get the DNA?

This is an old thread, but it's related to the questions I was going to ask, so I'll tag it on here. I haven't been able to find a K&N air filter that fits the V. Does anyone know if they make it and where I could get one? Are the DNA filters similar to the K&N? Where's a good place in the US to get the DNA?

No K&N for you ,as they don't seem to make on as of yet . I opted to try a bmc high perf filter http://www.bmcairfilters.com/infoBK.asp and im sure that the K&n , Dna & BMC are all pretty much the same & will acheive the same kinda results

Not sure on bikes but on three cars I have put on the dyno a K&N gave absolutely ZERO gains in power. I am a big fan of OEM air filters after years of tinkering with intakes and aftermarket filters. One thing you can do with a K&N is wash and re-oil it but you can do the same with more OEM bike filters these days.

Back in the day when I worked as a bike wrench for Kawasaki guys would come in and buy pods and expect us to get the bikes running perfectly with them. This was nothing more than a HUGE waste of money back then as the reduced airflow restriction really played havoc on the old school carbs.

We could usually get them running pretty decent but after dropping a big dime on the filters then paying for 2 hours of carb tuning the rider usually netted what felt to me a loss in midrange performance (where most power is needed and used).

As you can tell I have had my fill of “performance” filters. LOL I will stick with my OEM units thank you.

gti,

My brother put a couple of K&N pod filters on his vintage Yam XS650. Everything you said is true: he fiddled for hours getting the carbs set up right. But on top of that the bike is no longer happy running in the rain since the cones are not protected from the rain. They look cool though.

When VW designed the 'Bug' engine they omitted
an oil filter because the oil bath air cleaner was
so efficient. Then they $#!+ canned the good
filter for a cheap paper replacement. I always
added high capacity oil pumps with spin-on filters
to my built engines, so felt comfortable sacrificing
the trusty-but-heavy, old oil-bath for a K&N.

As with so many other things, OEM filters are
trade-offs between cost and effectiveness.
There are very few features on any of our
machines that can't be improved upon by
diligent application of $$. The trick is to
spend wisely if you truly want to extend
your performance, safety and longevity.

Threads like this lend much-needed perspective.
K&N saved my butt several times over the years
by being there on wild and crazy aftermarket
carb applications or custom hood application.
But I was probably a little over-zealous in
recommending them carte blanche. I never
noted any performance hits but I'm glad others
shared their experiences.

Good on y'all!

Thanks folks. It seems that most of the really experienced wrenches have said there's little or no advantage to the DNA etc air filters. I think for now I'll use the little money I have on other farkle. Now comes the fun part - choosing my next addition.

Web Bike World just added this K&N air filter review to their site. Not Versys specific, but worth a read.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/k-n-air-filter/

i rather get a new stock one than clean it. it is not that expansive and if you got money for brand new bike, then youve got to be able to get a new air filter. i think im gonna go with the DNA this time. see if it makes a difference.

If it flows more air which it will if you get K&N, the fuel injection will just increase the petrol, unlike carbs where you would need to rejet.
When I fitted K&N to a previous bike it had 2 air intakes and on the dyno we could block off 1 intake completely and the engine didn't notice even at full power
Ted.

Web Bike World just added this K&N air filter review to their site. Not Versys specific, but worth a read.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/k-n-air-filter/

Good article. Also be sure to read the 'Debunking the K&N Myth" page
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=180100&postid=1864002

The AC Delco filter test ran for 60 minutes before exceeding the restriction limit while the AMSOIL and K&N tests each ran for 20 and 24 minutes respectively before reaching max restriction.

In 60 minutes the AC Filter accumulated 574gms of dirt and passed only 0.4gms. After only 24 minutes the K&N had accumulated 221gms of dirt but passed 7.0gms.

Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt.

And this:

Dust Loading Curves. The AC and Baldwin filters each had near linear responses until reaching maximum restriction. Restriction for these filters increased at a constant rate versus the 9.8 gms/min dust feed rate.

The other filters, most notably the oiled reusable types, had an exponential loading response before reaching maximum restriction. These filters had a lower initial restriction, but they became exponentially more restrictive under a constant flow of dirt.

This runs counter to the "myth" that oiled media filters actually "work better" as they get dirtier.

Now that is very interesting data, I never read that before.
My use of a K&N over many years confirms it. It never clogged up, I could always just see light through the weave when I took it out. All I ever needed to do was shake bugs and big stuff out, I never blew the fine dust off as I reasoned that gave me a permanent media which took all but the very fine stuff out and flowed air so well compared with the OEM foam filter that it stopped the high-altitude carb problems I had had before. Even after a huge mileage there was no sign of bore or other wear in the motor, or dirt build-up anywhere, the last time I stripped it.
What do you reckon is the reason for ultra-filtered air then guys?
Ted.

Our helicopters (Bell 206B JetRanger) originally
came with vortex generators that swirled the
incoming air to expell most dirt that was then
ejected overboard with bleed air.

Then they spent a ton of money converting
the intakes to a barrier air filter that looks
for all the world like the biggest K&N you
ever saw.

Unfortunately it has caused many more problems
than it solved, because the engines now choke
for air during high power applications, especially
during pine pollen season here, or other times
when there is lots of airborne dirt like in late
summer droughts, etc.

Since much of the intake air is instrumental
in engine cooling this is a major hassle and
any incremental increase in compressor wear
is offset by decreased dependability. I'm
starting to have serious doubts about the
efficacy of these filters, after having been
a very long time proponent of them.

Like the six blind men arguing about the
elephant, sometimes we present our cases
without considering the very varied conditions
that other riders endure. Our pine pollen
season is an extremely troublesome time
of year due to the proliferation of giant
tracts of the pesky pollinators all through
the South. And if we truly use our Versyii
for other than urbane urban riding, we
probably need to up the aircleaner maintenance,
no matter WHAT kind of filtration we choose.

I decided to keep mine stock. First they want $80+ for an aftermarket filter. The PCIII maps are listed are the same for stock filter vs aftermarket filter. I put a K&N on my old PU truck and noticed similar things listed on that website linked above, more noise and less dirt filtration, fine particles getting past the filter.

In my opinion the 60 euros i payed for the aftermarket air filter was the worst spend money on the bike.i should have bought better lamps or something that would really make an improvement.But its more psychological than real when it comes to MY bike if you know what i mean.
naz

On my TLs with 50,000 miles and bone dry K&N - the bores were perfect. I just wash the V filter as never seen a gain on my race bike with/without race filter (dyno)