I found this interesting that they don't come out and mention the Versys but if you notice the fourth paragraph they do mention "From reports on the USA and French Forums".

Even though its for the Ninja 650---it wouldn't hurt to double check your frame.

I thought it would be a good idea to share this just in case. For your peace of mind check it out and make sure you won't be a statistic out there.

I can see how it could happen; especially if you think about it somewhere after the welding is done the frame gets painted and no one would be the wiser if there was a problem ---- until after the fact of a few casualties.

Safe riding!

I don't remember, is the frame of the Versys the same as the Ninja 650R?

It is the same... With the motor mount bolts removed, mine had a 2.8 mm gap between collar and mount on the right, and a 2.5 mm gap on the left between mount and engine head. With the left side bolt still tightened as others have measured it, my right side gap opens to 3.4 mm as usually noted. I shimmed mine out on both sides to keep it good and balanced from the start without any pre-tension.

Hi; I saw a post on this forum and checked; My versys had 4000km and there was a small crack and rust on the frame meaning it was already starting to crack. I went to my local dealer ; they took pictures and sent it to Kawasaki Canada. Kawasaki Canada told me they were willing to repair the bike. Meaning that they would pay to have the frame welded and repainted where it was cracked. :mad::mad::mad:

I talked with a Roger at Technical support for kawasaki Canada and he told me the would not replace the frame since they can repair it. They don't even know who will be doing the welding job so How can they assure me that it will be ok ???

The bike is brand new and it is a known problem and they won't replace the frame. In the last three years I bought a zzr600 2006 a ZX6 2007 and a versys 2007. It is sad because the dealer where I live give great service.

: Update; I talked with the guys at the store (dealer) here today and they told me that welding should fix it and if it doesn't they would take care of it. Like they would support the job. So case closed for me !

Jules

oh geez are we going to have some major issues here. I havn't even taking it in for its first service , I ll be checking mine tonight.... ( yeah I only have 330km just got my license)

Thanks for the heads-up. If you have a problem and Kawasaki has it fixed, it should be good to go. In my opinion, once they confirm a problem and fix it, they are on the hook for that repair for as long as you own the bike.

If the problem happens out of warranty, they would probably give you a major hassle. However, once they fix it, it's a documented defect they fixed.

Don

Hi; I saw a post on this forum and checked; My versys had 4000km and there was a small crack and rust on the frame meaning it was already starting to crack. I went to my local dealer ; they took pictures and sent it to Kawasaki Canada. Kawasaki Canada told me they were willing to repair the bike. Meaning that they would pay to have the frame welded and repainted where it was cracked. :mad::mad::mad:

I talked with a Roger at Technical support for kawasaki Canada and he told me the would not replace the frame since they can repair it. They don't even know who will be doing the welding job so How can they assure me that it will be ok ???

The bike is brand new and it is a known problem and they won't replace the frame. In the last three years I bought a zzr600 2006 a ZX6 2007 and a versys 2007. It is sad because the dealer where I live give great service.

: Update; I talked with the guys at the store (dealer) here today and they told me that welding should fix it and if it doesn't they would take care of it. Like they would support the job. So case closed for me !

Jules


Good news, Jules! :thumb:

Thanks for the heads up. I checked mine and it seems fine, but it pays to keep an eye on it. I'll add that to my regular maintenance schedule.

You may as well remove both upper right and upper left motor mount bolts, and shim out both gaps with washers to prevent excess strain and cracking at the mount tabs, like I mentioned in my previous post: "With the motor mount bolts removed, mine had a 2.8 mm gap between collar and mount on the right, and a 2.5 mm gap on the left between mount and engine head. With the left side bolt still tightened as others have measured it, my right side gap opens to 3.4 mm as usually noted. I shimmed mine out on both sides to keep it good and balanced from the start without any pre-tension."


Kawette french ER6/Versys forum is up to 21 pages since Oct 2006 about frame cracking; http://www.kawette.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5937&highlight=cadre+fendu

FANTASTIC post and info. My frame looked fine but there was a .140 (3.55mm) gap on right side and .085 (2.16mm) left.

I shimmed them with washers just right to fill in gaps.

Thanks to all!

Right on Atgatt... Good work.

Good looking out dstar!

Afternoon:

Just completed the check on this issue and found that at 32 ft.lbs. of torque (2007 spec. from 2007 manual) I could stand to place a 1/16" washer on either side of my 2008 Versys. I do not think that this is as pronnounced as others have experienced.

Question: The 2007 service manual indicates 32 ft.lbs. of torque on the engine mount bolts. Is the torque spec. the same for the 2008 model?

If torque spec. for 2008 is 32 ft.lbs. like 2007, then I will utilize a 1/16" stainless steel flat washer on both sides.

If the torque spec. for 2008 should happen to be higher, then there may not be an issue!?

Torque spec should be the same for 2008... Even if it wasn't, you should still shim out both gaps accordingly.

WOW! This site is really helpful. I loosened the bolt and the gap was substantial...I'd say about 1/4 of an inch! I stuck a couple of washers in there and tightened. Again, so helpful. I really dig this site!

Thanks Invader. I think you have a wise approach here.

I elected to shim (better safe than sorry)- decided to fill the gap with 1/8" washer width on each side (was thinking 1/16" initially). I think this would be about 3mm on each side.

Has anyone noticed any changes in vibration of the motor after shimming it up?

Do you have to support the motor before taking the bolts out of both sides?

Has anyone noticed any changes in vibration of the motor after shimming it up?

No difference.

Do you have to support the motor before taking the bolts out of both sides?

Do one side at a time and no support is needed.

Well I finally got around to checking this on my bike as part of installing the crashbars that finally arrived. Starting on the right side, the nut started spinning just shy of torqued back down. I wound up having to drill/destroy the nut to get it back off because it certainly wasn't tight enough and the more I screwed around with it, the more it loosened up.

There was a gap, which I was going to shim but now I need to replace the damn nut and bolt that came with the HB bars because I damaged the threads drilling the nut off.

<rant> What kind of stupid setup is that where you can't get a wrench on the nut to keep it from rotating? Anyone else have this problem or should I feel special? </rant>

I guess I got lucky cause mine retightened with no problems, both sides.

I checked mine this morning. Sure enough, on the right side, there was a gap of almost 3/16ths of an inch. I shimmed the gap and retighten everything. Why can't Kawasaki fix this on the line? I can understand the frame not fitting perfectly, but all they would have to do is provide shims to install during assembly. It would add maybe 30 seconds to the assembly time. Tips and stuff like this is what makes this and other websites so great!!!

You could shim out both the right and left front mounts, like I mentioned earlier in this thread...

You could shim out both the right and left front mounts, like I mentioned earlier in this thread...

:thumb:I just pulled one side for now. Sometime in the next month, I'm going to install crash bars. When I do that, I'll split the difference with the shims between right and left sides.

I checked my bike and had to shim both sides. 2 washers made short work of the issue. Maybe 5 minutes including looking for some washers. shame, shame on you Kawi...:thumbdown:

I checked my bike and had to shim both sides. 2 washers made short work of the issue. Maybe 5 minutes including looking for some washers. shame, shame on you Kawi...:thumbdown:

Thats what were here for:thumb:

Thanks for bringing this to our attention. I just checked my 300 mile Versys and found the frame had this problem. At least at 300 miles I caught things well before the frame would crack.

The right side bolt was so tight I thought the threads might have been damaged. Whomever assembled my bike had to have torqued that bolt way tighter than 32 ft-lbs.

I ended up installing a 2.5 mm thick washer on the left and a 3.25 mm thick washer on the right, and now all is well.

Thanks for bringing this to our attention. I just checked my 300 mile Versys and found the frame had this problem. At least at 300 miles I caught things well before the frame would crack.

The right side bolt was so tight I thought the threads might have been damaged. Whomever assembled my bike had to have torqued that bolt way tighter than 32 ft-lbs.

I ended up installing a 2.5 mm thick washer on the left and a 3.25 mm thick washer on the right, and now all is well.

Good deal.:thumb:

I'm waiting for a new motor mount to come in for some warranty work, the part of the motor mount that the horn attaches to broke. I have my horn wire tied and electrical taped up right now. They were pretty good though, they took pictures and ordered the part, I'll mention to them about the 650r problems and ask them to check out mine when they take the old mount off.

Yep, mine was out 1/4" on the right and ok on the left. Shimmed and back riding.

Yep, checked mine today and had a huge gap when I took out the right bolt. It was 1/8 inch. I was going to use two 1/16 inch washers on the right but then the bolt did not protrude enough threads through the mount bolt nut. So I tightened it down with the 1/16 inch gap hoping that will alleviate enough stress on the weld.

The left side was 1/16 inch gap and was a perfect fit for one washer.

Thank you for bringing this engineering flaw to my attention everyone.

Checked mine yesterday when doing the 1500 mile oil change. I could literally feel the tension on the motor mount bracket as I was removing the right side bolt. Fortunately there appeared to be no damage to the motor mount bracket, but I'll be keeping a close eye on it just in case. A quick trip to the hardware store and several stainless washers later put things in order.

someone should post pictures of this may be useful.
thank you

someone should post pictures of this may be useful.
thank you


They have

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1345

I'm in the process of buying two '08 V's and am curious about shimming the gaps. Is it a good idea to measure the gap on both side add them together divide the sum by two and shim both sides equally? Or just shim what is required on each individual side? Thanks to all for such an informative website. This site was a vital part of decision to buy the V.

Add me to the list;

- I only checked the right side due to limited time (and that's the only mount that's been known to crack). I had to use an impact gun to remove the bolt and sure enough there was a 1/8" - 3/16" gap. I used one thick and one thin washer and still had full engagement on the nut.

I'll check the left side eventually, but I don't think the left is as big a deal.

Cheers,
Dave

Guys,
My "V" is in AZ (and I'll be there in November...), so can you tell me what shank size the engine mounts that need shimming are? 8mm? I'll be taking washers with me.
Thanks in advance.:huh:
Ed

Guys,
My "V" is in AZ (and I'll be there in November...), so can you tell me what shank size the engine mounts that need shimming are? 8mm? I'll be taking washers with me.
Thanks in advance.:huh:
Ed

I think I used 5/16" washers. You need to check your hardware store and get some of different thickness. You will find the gap on the right side to be much greater and my gap on the left side didn't warrant a washer in my opinion so none was used. Just get about 4 washers of various thickness and you should be fine. Be sure to get a good "bite" on the bolts so you don't round them off when you take them out as they are under considerable torque due to the factory pulling the frame in to close the gap. Some say you need longer bolts, but I was able to get mine back in and grab the locking part of the nut without a problem. I just don't have any of the bolt sticking out of the back side.

Guys,
My "V" is in AZ (and I'll be there in November...), so can you tell me what shank size the engine mounts that need shimming are? 8mm? I'll be taking washers with me.
Thanks in advance.:huh:
Ed

I think I used 5/16" washers. You need to check your hardware store and get some of different thickness. You will find the gap on the right side to be much greater and my gap on the left side didn't warrant a washer in my opinion so none was used. Just get about 4 washers of various thickness and you should be fine. Be sure to get a good "bite" on the bolts so you don't round them off when you take them out as they are under considerable torque due to the factory pulling the frame in to close the gap. Some say you need longer bolts, but I was able to get mine back in and grab the locking part of the nut without a problem. I just don't have any of the bolt sticking out of the back side.

Here's a link to my repair.


http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1345

I took my 08 versys to the dealer and they said there is a 5mm gap on the right side. They called Kawasaki and they said the frame is a pliable mild steel and the amount of gap is not a problem. So, if the work order says Kawasaki says to just tighten back down, do I shim?

Do a search, there have been a few frame cracking issues because of trying to torque down too large a gap.

Mine doesn't have this issue, but for me I would shim it. 5mm, is quite large as gaps go in my mind.

Its a 5 min job with a few cheap shims, why risk it, here's the torque specs.

N·m kgf·m ft·lb
Remarks
1 Engine Mounting Bracket Bolts 25 2.5 18 S
2 Front Engine Mounting Bolts 44 4.5 32 S
3 Rear Engine Mounting Nuts 44 4.5 32 S
4. Collar
5. Engine Mounting Brackets
S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.

Machog

I took my 08 versys to the dealer and they said there is a 5mm gap on the right side. They called Kawasaki and they said the frame is a pliable mild steel and the amount of gap is not a problem. So, if the work order says Kawasaki says to just tighten back down, do I shim?

If you loosen both sides, you'll likely have a smaller than 5 mm gap on the right side mount, and a small gap on the left. They can both be shimmed accordingly.

I took my 08 versys to the dealer and they said there is a 5mm gap on the right side. They called Kawasaki and they said the frame is a pliable mild steel and the amount of gap is not a problem. So, if the work order says Kawasaki says to just tighten back down, do I shim?

Well, clearly there HAVE been instances of the mounting tabs cracking, so the answer to your question depends on how interested you are with dealing with the situation if and when it becomes a problem..........I would just shim it for the small amount of time and effort.

Dave

Thanks for all the info guys. I had provided all the info to the dealer when I brought the bike in to have the frame checked. Since they called Kawasaki and were told to put the engine guards on and torque to spec is why I asked the question.

I have found that dealers are not going to do anything they don't have to. If Kawasaki said "don't worry about it", believe me they won't. I agree with DPelletier. Just shim it and get on with your life. I got the same run around from the dealer and fixed mine myself. http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1345

Other than that issue, I think the Versys is a great bike.

just joined the forum this week and saw this warning, i own a 2007 versys and have done 5000 miles, i checked the frame and it looks like it may be cracked i'm at the dealers in the morning for them to check the problem so i'll keep everyone posted thank's for the info.
Been to the dealers today the mechanic came out and took one look and said it needs a new frame to his service manager,he was a bit more reserved and said that he would contact kawasaki uk for instructions at which point he took my and the bike details and said to keep using it but to keep an eye on it,i have told them that i would prefer a new frame rather than it being rewelded and painted as i would not be confident in a repair.Just have to wait and see now,be sure i will let you all know how it goes.
Well i waited for two weeks for my dealer to get back to me so i rang them (millenium motorcycles, st helens, merseyside, england.)left my number as the person dealing with it was busy,no call back so i contacted kawasaki uk customer service and next day had a phone call asking what the problem was,i explained and he called back later that day to say that they hadn't lodged a warranty claim and they hadn't regitered the warranty in my name.As you can guess i wasn't happy and refused to take it back to the dealer, i took it to J and S in Northwich cheshire and they logged a claim in 5mins whilst i sat with a cup of tea, now lets see what happens and how long this takes.

just joined the forum this week and saw this warning, i own a 2007 versys and have done 5000 miles, i checked the frame and it looks like it may be cracked i'm at the dealers in the morning for them to check the problem so i'll keep everyone posted thank's for the info.


Yes, keep us posted. I fixed mine before they cracked.. It helps if you would put your location on you profile for us to better know the areas the versys can be found.

Great Post! Adding shims to both sides may be the proper way but this is what I did. Removed both 10 mm bolts from the bracket, not the 14 mm engine mounting bolt. The gap showed about 1/8". I filled the gap with slim washers and found the gap could grow with very little persuasion, perhaps because the ears of the bracket had already been bent. Ended up with about .175" or 3/16" or 4mm. of gap filled in. The left side is more of a hassle in that you must remove or at least loose up the middle fairing aft end and remove the side cover to access the same 10 mm bracket bolts. After filling in the right side the left had no gap with both bracket bolts removed. My guess is that on the assembly line, the left side was tightened up first which pulled the engine over flush to the mounts and created the gap on the right side. I'd like some feedback from others on this method, it's easier and faster but may not be the best way to address this problem. Working just the right side is just the way I used. Thanks, Angus.

I am going to try to take some pix of my frame mount tab that don't come out blurred(damm cheap camera),why,well looking at the photos of the right side tab vs my right side tab there is a difference,mine at the frame tube is not a flush on weld,they curvered it and it is welded front of the curve to the frame(think of a U shape) not the rear (to the horizontal rail),the rear of the U is welded to a section of the triangular brace which apperars to be extended rearward on mine to attach to the tab.perhaps a design change? In other words it is NOT welded like this and is no longer square at the frame tube like in this photo http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=324&d=1215150500

Ok here are two bottom ,stillcan't get a good one of the bracket extension on the rear of this tab
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a113/maddjack/Frame001.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a113/maddjack/Frame006.jpg
Do you see how its curved now?

Maddjack, that is very interesting. I assume that is what they are doing now to correct the problem. Too bad they just don't issue a recall and do them all. I hope the 2009 Versys are corrected. Thanks for the posting.

When someone finally gets an '09, I'd appreciate a posting with pictures to see if they actually did fix this issue.

Maddjack, that is very interesting. I assume that is what they are doing now to correct the problem. Too bad they just don't issue a recall and do them all. I hope the 2009 Versys are corrected. Thanks for the posting.

When someone finally gets an '09, I'd appreciate a posting with pictures to see if they actually did fix this issue.

Will do as soon as I get mine.

Maddjack, that is very interesting. I assume that is what they are doing now to correct the problem. Too bad they just don't issue a recall and do them all. I hope the 2009 Versys are corrected. Thanks for the posting.

When someone finally gets an '09, I'd appreciate a posting with pictures to see if they actually did fix this issue.
Why would they change back if they corrected it on my 2008?Sorry don't get that comment.:confused:

Add me to the list;

- I only checked the right side due to limited time (and that's the only mount that's been known to crack). I had to use an impact gun to remove the bolt and sure enough there was a 1/8" - 3/16" gap. I used one thick and one thin washer and still had full engagement on the nut.


Dave, you can't check one side at a time, you need to remove tension from both mounts simultaneously - there will always be a larger gap on the side you just loosened. Shimming only that side will close the gap but will also cause your engine to not sit square in the frame, if in reality there was a gap on both sides.

Gustavo

Dave, you can't check one side at a time, you need to remove tension from both mounts simultaneously - there will always be a larger gap on the side you just loosened. Shimming only that side will close the gap but will also cause your engine to not sit square in the frame, if in reality there was a gap on both sides.

Gustavo

Understood, but I was pressed for time AND it's only the right side frame bracket that has been known to crack. Most people that have loosened both sides reported that the right side gap was by far the larger of the two and many people have said they didn't need to shim the left at all. As far as the motor being square in the frame, I don't think an eighth or sixteenth of an inch on one motor mount is going to cause any issues; by the time you divide the spacer thickness in two to figure out how far the motor may have actually moved (assuming the frame bracket wasn't sucked in AT ALL) you are talking a very small amount of movement. I'm not at all concerned about it being "not square" but I agree that the method you've outlined is the best way to go. I'll check the other side this winter.

Cheers,
Dave

Mine has the gap for sure. I remember when I put my SWMOTECH guards on and thought, this isn’t right. At the time I considered looking for some washers to shim it and I guess I should have. Anyway I just went out and looked at my bracket to check for cracks and noticed the bracket on my 09 is slightly different and the weld is massive compared to the pics in this thread. Maybe Kawasaki’s fix was to make the weld beefier? Either way I am going to shim mine this weekend.

What kinds of washers are people shimming with? Stainless fender washers seem to make sense, but I'm open to suggestions.

How about posting a pic of the weld on the 09? I'd love to know if it changed from the 08, which did change from the previous ER6n.

B-

Just a heads up Gents. Went to install H&B crash bars and the left side engine mounting tab had a 3/16" gap between tab and engine. Installer 2 washers (1/2 " jobbers)installed the guards and that should be it. Right side had no gap. I did each side one at a time...So Mr. Kawa has not fixed the prob. And trust me the dealer does not give a shoey...

Just a heads up Gents. Went to install H&B crash bars and the left side engine mounting tab had a 3/16" gap between tab and engine. Installer 2 washers (1/2 " jobbers)installed the guards and that should be it. Right side had no gap. I did each side one at a time...

You should remove the left shims, slip the left bolt back in without tightening it at all, and loosen your right bolt to balance it out. There should be a smaller gap on the left, as well as a gap on the right. You can then shim both sides accordingly one after the other, just to avoid having both support bolts out at the same time.

Thanks Invader, will do tonight.....

Just did mine today.

It's an 2007 model and I was able to fit 2 washers between the frame and the mount on the right side and 1 washer on the left side (regular 7/16 Stainless steel washers).

I had about 5/32" of space before and now about 1/32". I don't want to pry the mounting tabs open to fit more washers so I will leave it like this

I am a little bit uneasy about the torque requirement on these bolts:

According to the service manual, the left and right engine mounting bracket bolts (M10) are supposed to be at 18 ft-lb and the the bigger engine mounting bolt (M14) should be at 32 ft-lb.

18 lb-ft didn't feel right so I ended up putting 24 lb-ft on them.

Anyways the mounting tabs looked fine with no sign of rust or cracks

Just checked and "fixed" mine as well. When I loosened the bolts, particularly on the LEFT side (left as I sit on bike), there was a ¼” gap. Removed bolt placed the washers and tightened it up to 32 lbs. Repeated process on the right side. The right side gap was much smaller and only required one washer. Sorry about the cell phone picture – but there are better ones on this thread. I will recheck the torque after my next ride just to be safe. Good thread everyone and thanks! Dom

Just checked mine, and well crap, it needs one washer about 7/16th on the left and two on the right. No frame cracks but I am just blown away that Kawi didn't adjust the spacer size with this issue. BTW, mine is an early 2008 model. (purchased in March of 2008.

Add me to the group. I checked mine the other day and the right side had about 1/4 inch gap and the left side was very close, not enough to worry about. Mine is a 2008 purchased in January, 2008. I put two 1/8" washers in to take up the gap and retightened.

What was weird was as I turned the bolt out, it kept feeling tight like the nut was spinning, but it was just that the gap kept a tightness on the bolt for a while until it relaxed.

EVERYONE should check this out. I found no cracks, but my build had the bracket welded to a sleeve that was welded to the frame tubing like has been described earlier, not a bracket welded directly to the frame. The first photos in this thread did not resemble my bike.

I shimmed mine, and actually it wasn't that bad as I thought. The left side took a very thin washer, maybe a 16th or so. The right side was about an 1/8th of an inch, maybe a bit more, about double the left side. There was little to no play in the spacer once the washer was inserted in either side. Then I followed the service manual steps to tighten things down, left the right snug, and then tightend the left, then loosened the right, inserted the washer and torqued that one down to 32 ft lbs like the left.

My bike too has the redesigned right side bracket, but still, it just doesn't make sense to have the tabs bend to meet the spacer of the engine.

Anyway, about $1 for two washers and I am done, I'll not worry about it further.

I think I asked before but don't recall a response (sorry if I missed it): I assume you're choosing stainless steel and looking for a couple different thicknesses, but what diameter washer are you all using?

I used a 3/8" washer. A 5/16" one is just a little too small and the bolt will not go through. I think I measured the bolt diameter at 0.318" and 5/16" is 0.3125", slightly smaller.

I also used zinc plated washers instead of SS, only because I didn't have SS around. I am going to watch it and if I see any rust, out they go and in goes SS.

To be truthful, I'm not at all convinced that Kaw isn't correct about this and it really isn't a problem at all under "normal" driving conditions. Everyone drives their bike differently and if you ride it hard, I believe this could lead to cracking. However with that said, I did mine even though I don't ride hard. Better safe than sorry. :-)

Mine was the same as yours marc11. I have an 08 V. Did mine when I put my HB bars on. The problem I had, as several others have had happen also is the nuts spun in the engine housing not allowing the bolt to get to the 32 ftlb torque. I ended up having to slip two pieces of steel stapping between the nut and the engine block to take up the space so the nut wouldn't spin so I could get it torqued. It was a bit of a hassle for sure, but after working at it for awhile I got it done.

pmac

I think I asked before but don't recall a response (sorry if I missed it): I assume you're choosing stainless steel and looking for a couple different thicknesses, but what diameter washer are you all using?

I used stainless on one side, the other side I couldn't find the right thickness in stainless so I just used normal steel. Only the edges could rust, and even then, very little and on top of that you can't really see it, so I am not worried.

Can anyone with an 09 chime in as to whether or not this has been resolved? Thanks.

Maddjack, that is very interesting. I assume that is what they are doing now to correct the problem. Too bad they just don't issue a recall and do them all. I hope the 2009 Versys are corrected. Thanks for the posting.

When someone finally gets an '09, I'd appreciate a posting with pictures to see if they actually did fix this issue.

hi,
im bob from malaysia, will be getting my 09 V next week, will post the frame pic once i get it, hope kawa had solve the problem on the 09 model.....:confused:

I didn't notice anything when I installed my Motech crash bars, but then again, I wasn't looking for it and I don't think I had both of those bolts loose at the same time. If I get a chance today or tomorrow, I'll take a look.

OK Confirmed My 2009 did need the 2 washers on each side. Losen both sides and was about same space on left and right side for me. Easy fix, already purchased 3/8 SS washers, thanks to so many post before.

I did mine at 2K miles and have 5K on my V now. I have not noticed anything adverse at all. The benefit I gained is knowing that the right side is not under so much stress. Thats the side as others have posted that opened up pretty good when checked. BTW I used SS washers.

IMHO I do not think the engine can become cocked due to the fact that the rear engine mounts are holding the engine in place. If this was a concern, there would have been measurements as part of the engine installation spec in the service manual, which there are not.

What I am puzzled about is why Kawi elected to beef up the frame and not just make the spacers bigger to meet the frame. Beefing up the frame had to be more expensive I would think than larger spacers, so I am of the mindset that the newer frames really do not need this modification.

At the same time, I do think I feel a bit more buzz in the bars than before the mod and I am guessing it is because the frame is under less stress and then is transmitting a different frequency of vibrations than without the washers.

This is just a theory of course. So I am on the fence if the washers are really needed, but cannot think of any detrimental affect they could have on the bike either.

What I am puzzled about is why Kawi elected to beef up the frame and not just make the spacers bigger to meet the frame. Beefing up the frame had to be more expensive I would think than larger spacers, so I am of the mindset that the newer frames really do not need this modification.

With mine being one of the new frame types( a 2008 see posted pictures in in the frame thread) I did not e check the gap ectl,I am of the opinion its not necessary on the new ones. I do not feel the gap is the problem its the type of weld and tab they used which did not spread stress . On the new frame I think Kawasaki's thought was more on the line of stress relieving the weld by spreading the stress over a larger mount,in Truth this is a better option.It kind of amazed me that on the early frames they basically just put a straight weld on a tab ,with no regard for flexing (all frames do it) and thus wound up with a problem they had to fix.I'll keep an eye on mine but after 8000 theres no cracks to be seen .if anything happens I'll post up

I tend to agree, which is making me rethink if I want to remove my shims...I did over 9k last year without a cracking issue.

mine has over 5k miles and has no problems with the frames even though you can hardly see me riding with both wheels on the ground. thanks

I just bought an 09 Versus new from the dealer and it has no gap on either side and, from my observation, nothing is bent due to overtorquing. FWIW.

I am bumping this post so others can see it. I wouldn't have even searched for it if not for a post about mirror issues, eluding to possible frame cracking. FYI

I just got a 2009 versys yesterday.

I saw posts about frame cracking before I went to the dealer. While I was at the dealer, there were 3 Versys. 2 Green and 1 blue.

I check all three bike, both sides and all three of them are fine, no gap what so ever. Looks like Kawasaki aware of this and took care of it in 2009 model.

I just got a 2009 versys yesterday.

I saw posts about frame cracking before I went to the dealer. While I was at the dealer, there were 3 Versys. 2 Green and 1 blue.

I check all three bike, both sides and all three of them are fine, no gap what so ever. Looks like Kawasaki aware of this and took care of it in 2009 model.

You can't tell until you loosen the top mount bolts.

I just got a 2009 versys yesterday.

I saw posts about frame cracking before I went to the dealer. While I was at the dealer, there were 3 Versys. 2 Green and 1 blue.

I check all three bike, both sides and all three of them are fine, no gap what so ever. Looks like Kawasaki aware of this and took care of it in 2009 model.
I have a Blue 2009 and the gap is still there if you loosen the mounting bolts.

This is not good! I just bought the bike (09) yesterday...

I read the whole post this time from beginning to the end... Someone mention something about Kawasaki beefing up the frame... What year? 07? 08? 09? Is the 09 going to be okay with doing anything?

I am not good with tools, bolts and stuff... Anyone in Los Angeles area can help me out? Or help each other out?

Another thing come to my mind... What happen if we shim this thing ourself and the frame still crack down the down??? Kawasaki will have a good reason not to help you because you are doing all these yourself!!!

This is not good! I just bought the bike (09) yesterday...

I read the whole post this time from beginning to the end... Someone mention something about Kawasaki beefing up the frame... What year? 07? 08? 09? Is the 09 going to be okay with doing anything?

I am not good with tools, bolts and stuff... Anyone in Los Angeles area can help me out? Or help each other out?

Another thing come to my mind... What happen if we shim this thing ourself and the frame still crack down the down??? Kawasaki will have a good reason not to help you because you are doing all these yourself!!!


Don't get too flustered about it. I only know of one reported cracking, but numerous, including mine, gap issues. Next time you're at your dealer, talk to him and ask if they would shim the mounts. It's easily done.

Don't get too flustered about it. I only know of one reported cracking, but numerous, including mine, gap issues. Next time you're at your dealer, talk to him and ask if they would shim the mounts. It's easily done.

Thanks man.

I am very concern because this happen to me before. I got a 07 Yamaha FZ1, 3 months and 5000+ miles later and the frame cracked right on the right welding... Waited 3 weeks and no new frame... Long story short, I trade it in and lost $$$...

BTW 07, 08 Yamaha FZ1 and R1 had quite a few cracked frame!

As I stated before is the Gap a problem or should it be there.Theres a gap on my Triumph too if I loosen the motor mount bolts,should I shim that too? The Frame area has been redesigned to distribute the stress,I think those of you shimming may have a problem down the road as you are shorting the amount of bolt that is in the engine,it may crack or fail now,or it may cause damage to the threads in the engine over time,we'll see.I have no cracking issues,and I have more than a few miles on my Versys.
In order to get the engine into the frame during assembly there has to be a small gap,unless we have mastered teleportation. Just sayin people

As I stated before is the Gap a problem or should it be there.Theres a gap on my Triumph too if I loosen the motor mount bolts,should I shim that too? The Frame area has been redesigned to distribute the stress,I think those of you shimming may have a problem down the road as you are shorting the amount of bolt that is in the engine,it may crack or fail now,or it may cause damage to the threads in the engine over time,we'll see.I have no cracking issues,and I have more than a few miles on my Versys.
In order to get the engine into the frame during assembly there has to be a small gap,unless we have mastered teleportation. Just sayin people

There's plenty of bolt length to accomodate a couple of washers. It's poor practice to preload the mount ears because most of the stress occurs right at the weld area, and will tear metal out of the frame tube eventually. The frame is stiff enough that it won't move, so the mount takes all the stress. If the frame was built properly, 1 or 2 mm space is all that's required for engine installation.

In order to get the engine into the frame during assembly there has to be a small gap,unless we have mastered teleportation. Just sayin people



They should then shim that gap at the factory.

They should then shim that gap at the factory.

Absolutely. but they didn't. It's a ten minute job, and if you're installing engine guards (H-B), the bolts get changed anyway. It's a lot easier than changing a frame.

Absolutely. but they didn't. It's a ten minute job, and if you're installing engine guards (H-B), the bolts get changed anyway. It's a lot easier than changing a frame.I'm not buying in that it will ever affect the frame on 2008 or later models,show me pictures of an 2008 or later which has had damage,all the ones that cracked to my knowlege were pre 2008 with a DIFFERENT tab type and weld.

Absolutely. but they didn't. It's a ten minute job, and if you're installing engine guards (H-B), the bolts get changed anyway. It's a lot easier than changing a frame.


I was agreeing with you pete.;)

I'm not buying in that it will ever affect the frame on 2008 or later models,show me pictures of an 2008 or later which has had damage,all the ones that cracked to my knowlege were pre 2008 with a DIFFERENT tab type and weld.

Maybe so, but the gap offends my engineering sense and my years of mechanical experience and training. Preloading a structure like that is just asking for trouble. When I build a track bike, I fabricate my own mount spacers to fit exactly and then engrave them with their location so they always go back in the same places.

Maybe so, but the gap offends my engineering sense and my years of mechanical experience and training. Preloading a structure like that is just asking for trouble. When I build a track bike, I fabricate my own mount spacers to fit exactly and then engrave them with their location so they always go back in the same places.


Yes. I know. What I was saying, was that they should not have been so lazy, and shimmed the gap, not that there needed to be that big of a gap in the first place, at the factory. Poor design tolerances.

Mine is shimmed. It is an easy job, and a good preventative measure.

I just installed the HB bars and checked the frame on my '08 V. I had about 1/8" gap on left (added 1 washer) and even less on right side (added 0 washer). And checked the engine mount on the right side and noticed I had the curved weld tab that Maddjack had shown in an earlier post. Thanks for the heads up guys, all good here in 'Bama!

Did the same as BamaVersys when fixed the HB guard. Make sure don't overtorque and bend the tab. Putting the shims in is a :goodidea:

I just installed the HB bars and checked the frame on my '08 V. I had about 1/8" gap on left (added 1 washer) and even less on right side (added 0 washer). And checked the engine mount on the right side and noticed I had the curved weld tab that Maddjack had shown in an earlier post. Thanks for the heads up guys, all good here in 'Bama!

This is what I think, which ever side you loosen first will have the gap. Just my 2 cents.

Well, you can add an 09 model to the list of those with the excessive clearance. I checked it last night and added .140 inches worth of shims on the right, reinstalled the bolt and then had to add about .080 inches to the left side. It is an easy fix. As mentioned before, 3/8 inch stainless washers from your local hardware store will do the trick. I worked many years in different aspects of manufacturing; the last eighteen as a Quality Engr. and I firmly believe the shims are necessary regardless of what Kawasaki says. They need to take care of this problem at the factory level before all thes bikes get in the field. All just my opinion of course.

Remember to ride as if you are invisible

Why not just take it to the dealer and hash it out with them. For some of us with bikes still under warranty, why should i be working on it? This is there problem, not mine. Right?

Mine did not have any gap but some one said you have to loosen something first, well that does not make any sense, but what do i know.

I just bought a new 2009 Versys. I have 200 KM on it. I'm worried about what I'm hearing about the frame and the mirros of the Versys.

I'm mechanical disinclined though. So, my only alternative is to get the dealer to check on the issue.

What do I say and how do I tell them about the issues I see on this board, and they'll understand, properly check it and deal with it??

P.S. How do I make sure that I cover myself in the future by saying that I've done this and make sure that it doesn't bite me in the a$$ if they didn't check it out when I asked them??

I bought a new bike to make sure that I didn't have to soak a bunch of money into a bike, since that's all I've been doing for 3 years on an old bike.

Thanks,
Dennis

Finally took the time to shim the bike, had a gap on both sides. I have H&B bars which were not fun to put back on. However, when I was tightening the right side screw where the shim is, when it was almost completely tight I heard a pop. Kinda sounded like tension being released, it scared me for a bit, and I went carefully around the entire area. I couldn't find a thing that would explain such a noise. Everything seems tight and fine, and I'm thinking it might have been another bolt or something be shifted a bit due to the change in tension from the shim. Any thoughts?

Finally took the time to shim the bike, had a gap on both sides. I have H&B bars which were not fun to put back on. However, when I was tightening the right side screw where the shim is, when it was almost completely tight I heard a pop. Kinda sounded like tension being released, it scared me for a bit, and I went carefully around the entire area. I couldn't find a thing that would explain such a noise. Everything seems tight and fine, and I'm thinking it might have been another bolt or something be shifted a bit due to the change in tension from the shim. Any thoughts?

This doesn't sound good! I haven't done mine and will probably will not do it for reason like this. What if somethings goes wrong, and Kawasaki wouldn't repair it under warranty because this is something that you cause it and not them???

You should really check your chasis and others really good, something might have cracked. Let us know what happen.

I am with you, leave it alone...

Well, I had two of my friends come over. One is an ex-navy mechanic and current automobile mechanic and fellow rider. Another is a rider with quite a bit of experience. We each very carefully looked over it, removed each bolt in turn and put them back to proper torque etc. No repeat of the sound, nothing looks wrong at all. My mechanic friend suggested it was the sound from an engine not worked on much, no big deal. It really does look fine, and since we couldn't repeat it, maybe i was just hearing voices!

I shimmed both sides today, no cracks, gap was about 3/16 total.

holy heebeejeebees. just checked my right engine mount, 1/8" gap. headed to Lowe's now... thanks guys! :)

JM

I just bought a new 2009 Versys. I have 200 KM on it. I'm worried about what I'm hearing about the frame and the mirros of the Versys.


Dennis - There is nothing wrong with the frame on the '08 and later bikes. There was an issue with early bikes ('07 models, but mostly on ER6's) that were sold in Europe. The gap is there because you need to have a gap to slide the engine in. Sure, it could have been a bit smaller, but it's not a real problem. Frames don't crack, tabs don't break, etc. with this design.

Your dealer will likely refuse to do anything about it, as it's currently installed per the Kawasaki design. Not sure what's the problem with the mirrors, other than someone maybe didn't tighten them well enough during installation at the dealer. Do a search on mirrors, there are several threads that explain how to tighten the lock nut so that they do not move. It's not rocket science, I am sure you will be capable of "fixing" it yourself.

Gustavo

holy heebeejeebees. just checked my right engine mount, 1/8" gap. headed to Lowe's now... thanks guys! :)

JM

Did you check with both sides loosened? The gap on the right mount is bigger when the left mount bolt is not loosened.

yeah, just got done reading through both threads regarding this issue...will recheck first thing tomorrow morning. I stuck 2 washers on right side and snugged tight, upon checking left side I was able to snug 1 washer. Seems pretty even already...guess i need to get even thinner washers and balance it out.

Dennis - There is nothing wrong with the frame on the '08 and later bikes. There was an issue with early bikes ('07 models, but mostly on ER6's) that were sold in Europe. The gap is there because you need to have a gap to slide the engine in. Sure, it could have been a bit smaller, but it's not a real problem. Frames don't crack, tabs don't break, etc. with this design.

Your dealer will likely refuse to do anything about it, as it's currently installed per the Kawasaki design. Not sure what's the problem with the mirrors, other than someone maybe didn't tighten them well enough during installation at the dealer. Do a search on mirrors, there are several threads that explain how to tighten the lock nut so that they do not move. It's not rocket science, I am sure you will be capable of "fixing" it yourself.

Gustavo

I agree 100% with this,you folks are worring about a non issue

Well, we can go on beating this dead horse, but from an engineering standpoint, pre-stressing a frame isn't a good idea. The situation with the V is more related to production engineering where a looser tolerance is allowed to reduce the amount of reject frames. It's a trade-off between cost control, precision, and the use of semi-skilled people who do the assembling.

There may be no long term effects from a poor fit, but it annoys ME to put something back together that's not quite right. My standards are obviously higher than Kawasaki's. I can and do build British motorcycle engines that do NOT leak a drop of oil, and I've done it with old Harleys as well.

I can only advise. What any one individual does is strictly up to him.

There may be no long term effects from a poor fit, but it annoys ME to put something back together that's not quite right.

Pete, I wholeheartedly agree with this. But, people who are not engineers and have no hands on mechanical experience read this thread and think the "sky is falling", creating this false sense that there is a problem that needs to be fixed to prevent future damage to the frame/bike. I see a lot of anxious posts, people who don't have the skills and/or confidence to evaluate and do something about this gap in the mounts thinking that if they don't address this immediately their bike will suffer some permanent, irreversible, damage. What I am trying to convey is that while it could have been designed/manufactured with smaller tolerances, it is not likely to break if you don't modify it.

There are lots of guys on the international forum that have done nothing to their '07-'08 frames and are well over 30K miles on the bikes with no issues. Just trying to keep things in perspective.

:cheers:

Gustavo

I understand, but it's so simple to do. Ten minutes and a few washers.

I understand, but it's so simple to do. Ten minutes and a few washers.But it does not NEED to be done,its a choice you made,I agree with Gustavo,there are people on here who think its a necessity, when its not.

My dealer it is not a warranty issue, and no letters out from Kawasaki so they won't shim it under warranty.

This was my gap...I subscribe to the train of thought that while this may not be a detrimental issue for the safety of the bike, it is still a very easy fix and I feel better having performed this 5-minute remedy.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/johnrend/Car%20Exterior/Spacebetweenenginebracket.jpg

Looks like Kawasaki finally got around to fixing the gap? The collar and the bolt holding it are new part numbers on the 2010. The bolt is 5mm longer, so I would guess the collar is too. The bracket on the left side is also a new number.

It may also have something to do with the new rubber engine mounting too.

I shimmed mine........I was more concerned with the mount on the engine more than the frame. A cracked frame can be repaired, the engine mount cannot.