The supplied signal lights are marked : 00SM2 (E11) 008812V 066W

The supplied license plate light is marked: 12V 0. 2W 50R - 00106

They pre-wired with wire that is thinner than the stock wiring.


Is there anythin special I need to do?

I have heard that LEDs flash much faster / too fast ? Is this an issue?

Do I need to be concerned about replacing LEDs / bulbs?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Colin

I'm not familiar with the kit, but since it's a kit and pre-wired then more than likely you'll just need to wire it up along with mount it.

See if I understand this correctly -- the tail lights are LED but the license plate lights are lamps (bulbs)? Smaller wire is fine with LED's as they use FAR less power than bulbs. The tail light, even if it is a bulb, doesn't use much.

LED's only flash slower/faster when used with flashers without some type of sink. The kit probably includes it, though I can't be sure. Flashers rely on the bulb to drain a capacitor to regulate the flashing. Since LED's use far less power, they drain the capacitor slower or not at all, and cause the flashers to operate erratically. The cheapest way to correct this is to place a power resistor between the positive & negative leads to the kit, but you'll have to play with the resistance to get the correct timing.


In some cases, the flashers are built into the bulb and rely on the bulb heating up to open a circuit (similar to a fuse, but they reset themselves). In this case, the LED's won't flash at all unless the kit includes the timing circuit.


The more expensive but correct method is to buy or make a timing circuit (555 timer comes to mind) and eliminate the flashers. It may be supplied with the kit or pre-installed.

LED's can burn out or fail, but it's very rare. If they do, more than likely you'll have to solder them in.

You're probably more confused now than ever.

Thanks for the reply.

The tail light is also a LED

The signal lights don't appear to have any sink or capacitor.

I was thinking that the flashers were already built into the stock circuit.

I am going to do a temporary connectiion to see how the lights work with the existing harness.

Thanks,
Colin

That's the best solution - just connect it and see how/if they work. As long as you don't short the leads together, you shouldn't hurt anything. Even reversing the leads shouldn't cause any harm, but I don't recommend it.

I'm fairly certain the Versys uses flashers (as opposed to timers) and yes, they are stock. What I meant was I wasn't sure if the kit you got included a timer to convert from the stock flashers, a sink/resistor for direct connection to stock flashers, or nothing at all. You probably won't see the sink if it does have one as it is normally integrated into the LED assembly.

That information was in case they don't work as expected -- hopefully it will lead you in the right direction.

Smaller gauge wire on an LED light is fine. They draw VERY little current.

I saw a resistor for LED conversion at Advanced Auto Parts the other day. I just took a quick glance at it as I was just curious. They were set up for 12v systems so if you are interested in adding resistance to your flasher circuit to correct the issue that would probably be your best bet. Be careful with the way you connect the pre-wired harness. LED's only work and allow current to flow one direction. From positive to negative or from negative to positive depending on wether or not you are talking hole flow or electron flow. Either way, I would just connect it the way its pre-wired with a little bit of resistance added. Good luck and let us know how everything goes. Post some pics when you get it going. I'll bet its gonna look sweet! :thumb:

Thanks scaryfast777.

Finished it up today. Did not put in the resistors. The flashes are quicker
At first nothing lighted up, then I reversed the wiring and LEDs worked.

I think the backend does look much cleaner.

If the weather is good tomorrow, I will take some picks.

Cheers,
Colin

:thumb: