Only 3K kms on a new V. One pipe blue, the other gold. I'm guessing synching should be my first step. Never had an injected bike, so.... guidance would be appreciated.

(link busted)

I'm admittedly clueless here but I didn't think you had to sync an FI engine. Maybe a remap... or some pipe paint? :huh:

Edit: Darth... there was nothing on that link. Did I miss it?

Only 3K kms on a new V. One pipe blue, the other gold. I'm guessing synching should be my first step. Never had an injected bike, so.... guidance would be appreciated.

I think the bluing is a common phenomena on the Versys. I have heard theories about how the coolant enters the head on the other side first, cooling one cylinder more than the other, but I don't know if thats why. I would highly doubt it's the throttle bodies needing a sync. That shows up more in rideability IIRC.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_synchronize_the_carburetors%3F

And yes so long as there's two throttle bodies, there's syncing to do. Might not be the cause of the problem though.

the blue header is from heat and is a result of the bike being lean on that cylinder - you should sync the TBs if you're concerned about it.

the blue header is from heat and is a result of the bike being lean on that cylinder - you should sync the TBs if you're concerned about it.

...which brings me to my original question......

I did it by removing the airbox and covering the TB inlets with the original filter's foam, secured with electrical tape. I also covered the crankcase vent port with clean cloth secured with zip tie. I was then able to operate it with the back of the fuel tank propped up for easy access to the vacuum bypass adjustment screw(s), and to hook up vacuum gauge to TB vacuum fittings. Check at 1300 rpm idle. Leave the closed screw as it is and adjust the open screw to balance both sides. Open screw more to reduce its vacuum reading to equalize it to other side, or reduce screw opening to increase TB vacuum... My left TB's screw was at 3/4 turn open, now about 7/8.

Thanks Invader! Over on the Magna forum we have this one guy who always has the answers to these kinda' questions. Seems you are the go-to guy here. :)

No problem, Magnaversys... I also removed the IAP sensor from the airbox and left it connected and held up on the wire harness, to run the engine with airbox removed.

Once again proving that is is a great forum! Learn something new all the time. Looks like I am in need of a sync as well.

I borrowed an old twin cylinder vacuum synch gauge that uses coolant in a hose... I knew I should've taken pics.
There is this 2 cylinder carburetor synch dial gauge set you can get for $36.95 plus shipping:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Carburetor-Synchronizer-carb-sync-Gauge-2-cylinder-bike_W0QQitemZ330272900446QQihZ014QQcategoryZ43991 QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

Good note Invader. Thanks again. I think I shall attempt to find a quad guage so I can use it for the Magna as well. I have new jets for it to install so it will need a synch as well.

i have a custom tuned map on my bike but my right hand pipe is bluing much faster as well.... if i sync of the tb's will i need to change the map to get it perfect or what?

i have a custom tuned map on my bike but my right hand pipe is bluing much faster as well.... if i sync of the tb's will i need to change the map to get it perfect or what?

Not unless they set your mapping up for each cylinder (of which you can do on the PCIII, but highly doubt they did it that way.)

You can certainly check and see if it's setup like that, but like I said it's most likely set with both cylinders using the same map table values.

I did it similar to invader. Even with the fancy screwdriver I bought access is so difficult that I ended up adjusting it with the airbox off and putting a mesh over the intakes. Had to prop up the tank above everything. Idling till warm and then adjusting at idle made it slightly out at 3,000 rpm!. So in the end stuck with what was best for 2,000 ~ 5,000 rpm. (Which ended up being the setting from before I started.)

Isn't the sync just the air bypass screw as opposed to the throttle butterfly's?

In this case, it'll have 3/10 of F-all effect on running airflow. The air bypass would be less than 50% of the idle flow, the rest passing the butterflies. And the idle flow being 1/20 of the cruise flow, with a lower vacuum at cruise as well.

Maybe I'm mistaken, but I doubt an air bypass screw would balance anything at 3000rpm and 60km/hr+. Yes, every 0.01% is better, but...

Please correct me if I am mistaken.

Thanx
Paul

Isn't the sync just the air bypass screw as opposed to the throttle butterfly's?

Maybe I'm mistaken, but I doubt an air bypass screw would balance anything at 3000rpm and 60km/hr+. Yes, every 0.01% is better, but...

Please correct me if I am mistaken.



The first part is correct, the second isn't. It's not about engine speed, rather about throttle butterfly's position/opening. So, if you are cruising (at most RPM) the throttle is only just cracked open. That's where a correct sync makes a difference. If you are accelerating hard, you are right, the impact of the bypass screw is small. Linking this to the thread you have on hunting/surging, that is a symptom of a un-synced throttle body.


Gustavo

2 Questions

a) Any tips on where I can find the bypass screw?

b) How do you guarantee the butterflies are equal?

Thanx
Paul

Bypass screws (one per TB) are on the back of throttle bodies. One is left shut, and the other set to balance both vacuum levels. Vacuum synch is adjusted at normal 1300 rpm idle. When properly set at idle, vacuum balance goes off as soon as you give it a bit of throttle, then goes back to near equal at over 3000 rpm or so...
I gave myself access to the screws and vacuum fittings by propping up the rear of gas tank as mentioned in post 8, 10 and 12 of this thread.
Throttle butterflies open together on a common shaft and cannot be adjusted.

Get a digital thermometer and check the head pipe temp. If the tb's are synched, the temps should be nearly identical.......

a) Any tips on where I can find the bypass screw?



In the manual... I highly recommend you do not start wrenching before you've read the service manual. A lot of this is common to all bikes, but you want to be sure you looked at the details that make the Versys different before you start tearing into it. The manual (http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216) is available on some share-drives online, so there really is no excuse to not review it before you start.

Gustavo

In the manual... I highly recommend you do not start wrenching before you've read the service manual. A lot of this is common to all bikes, but you want to be sure you looked at the details that make the Versys different before you start tearing into it. The manual (http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216) is available on some share-drives online, so there really is no excuse to not review it before you start.

Gustavo

+1 :)