My main throttle sensor voltage was at 1.061 V at idle throttle opening (standard: 1.005 - 1.035 V), and 4.03 at full throttle opening. (standard: 4.2 - 4.4 V) So I decided to set full throttle at 4.2 V, which gave me 1.091 V at idle. This raised idle speed and fast idle speed a bit which I the adjusted back down. I checked my idle voltage again after testing it, and it was at 1.087 V. The main sensor's maximum throttle voltage was down to 4.15 V, so I'm readjusting it back up to 4.2 V...
Lean condition at low RPM is reduced, and off to on throttle is notably smoother. The sharp backfire I always had when starting to open throttle slightly from a light engine braking at low speeds is also gone! :thumb:

I made my own adapter with some 0.032" solid wire and cut down flat female connectors... There could be many Versys' like mine with an improperly set main throttle sensor.

wow great info. after adjusting mine i noticed the same better low speed running. i just did it by setting the idle at 2800 rpm and adjusting the TPS for hightest rpm. i need to make a connector like yours and check my voltage. i rode my bike for the second time (after adjustment) and i dont even think about low speed running anymore. i installed a Techlusion TFI a few weeks ago and it wouldnt fix the low speed jerky throttle. even running the first pot rich enought to add a slight hesitation. its now set to off. The TFI on my sv1000 fixed my low speed sputter/cought and smoothed out the low speed really well? could timing be the fix for versys low speed and not fuel?

My main throttle sensor voltage was at 1.061 V at idle throttle opening (standard: 1.005 - 1.035 V), and 4.03 at full throttle opening. (standard: 4.2 - 4.4 V) So I decided to set full throttle at 4.2 V, which gave me 1.091 V at idle. This raised idle speed and fast idle speed a bit which I the adjusted back down. I checked my idle voltage again after testing it, and it was at 1.087 V. The main sensor's maximum throttle voltage was down to 4.15 V, so I'm readjusting it back up to 4.2 V...
Lean condition at low RPM is reduced, and off to on throttle is notably smoother. The sharp backfire I always had when starting to open throttle slightly from a light engine braking at low speeds is also gone! :thumb:

I made my own adapter with some 0.032" solid wire and cut down flat female connectors... There could be many Versys' like mine with an improperly set main throttle sensor.

Dude, I've ridden many bikes for many years. Unfortunately, I'm a mechanical/technical retard. Hence, I'm usually interested in your "performance" posts, but they most always make my head hurt. Bottom line: Would you like to come down to Atlanta and set up my bike? I'll buy you a Whopper. Buddy...

wow great info. after adjusting mine i noticed the same better low speed running. i just did it by setting the idle at 2800 rpm and adjusting the TPS for hightest rpm. i need to make a connector like yours and check my voltage. i rode my bike for the second time (after adjustment) and i dont even think about low speed running anymore. i installed a Techlusion TFI a few weeks ago and it wouldnt fix the low speed jerky throttle. even running the first pot rich enought to add a slight hesitation. its now set to off. The TFI on my sv1000 fixed my low speed sputter/cought and smoothed out the low speed really well? could timing be the fix for versys low speed and not fuel?

Yeah, that's what inspired me to check mine after you found this:
http://www.versys.co.uk/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=45&topic=4157.msg47678#msg47678

It affects fuel and ignition timing as well. A voltage increase as little as 0.02 volt at the TPS is said to considerably decrease pre-ignition tendency on a DFI Kawasaki Vulcan by richening low throttle opening mixture, even though initial ignition timing advance is up a bit. http://www.gadgetjq.com/tps_adjust.htm
Have you had a chance to verify with a timing light?

Now that it's been sitting out of the cold for a while, maximum throttle reading is back up to 4.21 V and idle at 1.1 V (meter '+' on bottom, meter '-' on top), with input voltage (meter '+' on middle, meter '-' on top) now at 4.99 V (standard: 4.75 - 5.25 V), so no need to re-adjust again... With the maximum throttle opening voltage between standard 4.2 and 4.4 V, idle voltage is higher than standard 1.005 to 1.035 V.

The fast idle cam was holding idle up a bit and affecting its voltage reading. After warming up the engine, I was able to check it properly and got 1.009 V idle, still with 4.21 V at maximum throttle opening. I set it up to 4.22 V max which gave me 1.031 V idle... Input voltage dropped to 4.76 V from 4.99 V soon after I stopped it (and even after I restarted it, while running or not), which then gave me 0.994 V idle and 4.04 V max. Battery was at 11.98 V so I put a 1 amp charger on it for a bit, which brought it up to 12.72 V off, then 12.44 V creeping down to 12.4 V as I checked TPS voltage again with ignition on. Input voltage was still ticked down to steady 4.76 V yielding 4.04 V output at max throttle, with idle voltage already pushed up a bit by fast idle cam. It was still the same after a full battery charge...

I did have to set secondary TPS to maximum counterclockwise position to back off fast idle cam, and idle is backed off a bit, as my main TPS was in fact adjusted up to 4.22 V max opening with input at 4.99 V.

Very Interesting... allthough... a lot of that went over my head... Which terminals did you attach the Meter to and where did you make the adjustments?

Thanks

OK , reading this forces me to ask one question for sure . The mentioning of " low speed jerking " makes me curious what rpm this is happening to you guys at .
From that , I personally do not experience any low speed jerking ( unless of course I accientally lug the engine ) but I do get some popping that strikes me as a backfire on occasion . However , this happens at low speed . For instance ... everytime I have heard the " backfire " , I pretty much have just rolled into a parking lot or I am slow rolling to a red light and blip the throttle a little bit .
I sort of have a habit of blipping the throttle when I first come to a slow roll situation and of course when downshifting . I do not notice the backfire when downshifting in an on the road riding situation . Only when I blip at a slow roll .
I suppose I do have one more question . Has anyone addressed this issue with a dealer on a warranty basis ? In the event the backfire is caused by misadjustment according to Kawasaki specs I personally would prefer to allow them to address the issue . If it is something that is simply being refered to as " misadjustment " , ( although needs to be done ) it looks like I might need to do some exploring on my own to prevent this .

Thanks , Wes

Personally... I'd rather tinker myself than let the dealer do it.

Very Interesting... allthough... a lot of that went over my head... Which terminals did you attach the Meter to and where did you make the adjustments?

Thanks Top and middle terminals for voltage input measurement, top and bottom terminals for main (bottom) TPS output voltage check. Loosen TPS torx screw and rotate TPS counterclockwise to increase output voltage. Loosen sub-throttle (upper) TPS torx screw, and rotate TPS counterclockwise to reduce fast idle rpm.

Personally... I'd rather tinker myself than let the dealer do it.



Quite frankly so had I . But when it comes to electrical components , I am a bit leary about making something go ....ZZZZTTTTT . Then the ball would be totally in my court . She is only a couple of months old and I do prefer some caution until I feel like there are no major issues that I could possibly force the hand of Kawaski on if need be .

Although , I would still like a response to my inquiry if possible .


Then again , when I bought the KLR that I now own , I think I voided the warranty , uh ..... I think it was either in the 1st or 2nd minute . LOL


One thing though . It would be nice if someone that has some experiential mileage on this issue would be so generous as to post some sort of a solid step by step " How To " thread with photos and the sort .
Something like that would be greatly appreciated for some time to come by all .


thanks , Wes

OK , reading this forces me to ask one question for sure . The mentioning of " low speed jerking " makes me curious what rpm this is happening to you guys at .
From that , I personally do not experience any low speed jerking ( unless of course I accientally lug the engine ) but I do get some popping that strikes me as a backfire on occasion . However , this happens at low speed . For instance ... everytime I have heard the " backfire " , I pretty much have just rolled into a parking lot or I am slow rolling to a red light and blip the throttle a little bit .
I sort of have a habit of blipping the throttle when I first come to a slow roll situation and of course when downshifting . I do not notice the backfire when downshifting in an on the road riding situation . Only when I blip at a slow roll .
I suppose I do have one more question . Has anyone addressed this issue with a dealer on a warranty basis ? In the event the backfire is caused by misadjustment according to Kawasaki specs I personally would prefer to allow them to address the issue . If it is something that is simply being refered to as " misadjustment " , ( although needs to be done ) it looks like I might need to do some exploring on my own to prevent this .

Thanks , Wes

It wasn't jerking, just touchy and abrupt at lower speeds/rpms. The vacuum mod had helped considerably, but adjusting the TPS got rid of the only sharp "POP!" I would get in similar conditions; not when bliping it, but when going lightly from off throttle to slightly on throttle at low speeds... It also made the transition from off to on throttle notably smoother, with a response that is more precise. It just feels better.

So from what I've seen: Before starting engine, check main TPS input voltage and maximum TPS output voltage. If input is near 4.76 V, maximum throttle output should be about 4.04 V. If input is near 4.99 V, maximum throttle output should be about 4.22 V. Rotate main (bottom) TPS counterclockwise to increase output voltage, and rotate sub-throttle (upper) TPS counterclockwise to reduce fast idle rpm. Start and warm up engine, adjust idle to 1300 rpm, then check main TPS input voltage (standard 4.75 - 5.25 V), check output voltage at idle (standard 1.0005 - 1.035 V) and maximum throttle (standard 4.2 - 4.4 V).

i had said jerking but (touchy and abrupt at lower speeds/rpms) sounds more accurate. example: very low speed turn with a little sand/gravel before adjustment was tought to open throttle gently enought now i have more control. happy with the mod. i also do a lot of city driving on bad roads and it helps there also.

Invisibiker ,

I understand what are saying now . Yeah , the V seems to be awful eager to go for sure . I suppose while we are on throttle related topic , the only real qualm have with mine is the slack sdjustment in the throttle cable itself . Mine has so much throttle tube slack , that when adjusted to Kawasaki specs that it REALLY is not good on the road .
I like to feel the stop at the end of backing off the throttle . My V seemed to roll on past that , then have this huge area of slack before the throttle comes back on when accelerating . I adjusted the cable at the throttle tube , but to get ALL the slack out , I ended up backing the adjuster completly out of the thottle housing . So I just put it back with only a coupld of turns on the adjuster . Which still left me with a small amount of slack but not nearly as bad as manual specs .

On a second not . It seem to me all this adjusting the TPS to eliminate slow speed quick response to the throttle , one would be loosing the whole conept of the V . Which is torque . It sounds a bit like the intended torque of the bike is getting tunded out . No expert here , but in looking cosely at that , I feel pretty sure that what is happening IMHO .
Living here in the North Carolina Smokies , that is why I chose the V and enjoy it so much . All the torque in a small lightweight package . I rode a buddys Ninja 650 , which most of are aware has the same engine but tuned differently . The Ninja's throttle is pretty much an ON/OFF switch IMHO .
I think I will bypass the TPS adjustment on mine now that I have looked at it more closely . I can only asumme personal preferences warrants some wanting less torque . I suppose it would be handy for those living in flat land and or doing allot comuter city driving .

There is another throttle cable slack adjustment up close to the throttle bodies. I had to tighten mine a couple times over the break-in. It's also harder to launch with a slack cable...
Setting the main TPS to proper spec does not make you lose any torque. It's the complete opposite. If its voltage is under standard range, you're losing out on low end torque, response, tractability and driveability, due mostly to a leaner low end condition which also increases backfiring tendency, and not as much initial ignition timing advance upon throttle opening.

Invader ,

Thanks man for clearing that up . That's why we are in here in my opinion . To bounce useable stuff off of one another . I have not as of yet venured to look for the other throttle cable slack adjuster at the TB . I wll be digging in that department very soon .

Again , Thanks , Wes

And here I thought this was a thread about "Office Space"...

peter we seem to be having a problem with your tps sheets

Thats TPS "reports"... Ummm Yeaaaaah.:p

i was really sleepy when i wrote that :)

Pic shows the amount of counterclockwise rotation on the grey main throttle sensor by the green factory setting line offset where the sensor sits on its mount, to adjust its output voltage within spec. Black subthrottle sensor sits just above it:

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/2033/throttlesensor.jpg (http://img219.imageshack.us/i/throttlesensor.jpg/)

The first picture you posted had me going Invader. Thought I did my homework wrong for a second there. LOL. I moved mine as well about half a mil and wow, no more back fire on decel with the cherry bomb and smoothed it all out at low rpm.

I did loose some millage though but well worth the trade off imho.

Yeah, I was responding to a "how-to?" PM and thought I'd add it to my thread here. I then realized I took a pic of the subthrottle sensor instead. Now I can't get a nice clear pic of the main throttle sensor from so close :mad: ...
So here's the subthrottle sensor as seen from underneath, rotated fully counterclockwise to bring fast idle back to a reasonable 2000+ rpm, after setting the main throttle sensor.

Subthrottle sensor (upper):

http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/7711/throttlesensors001.jpg (http://img100.imageshack.us/i/throttlesensors001.jpg/)

Invader; this is for you. I knew about your TPS fix for some time but was very hesitant to try without the special tool and pictures showing me what to measure. Well today after reading a post in the forum someone had adjusted their tps counterclockwise by half a millimeter and had good results. I did the same thing and can honestly tell you that there are changes in the engine characteristics. I took 2 test rides about 8 hours apart today. On the first ride I noticed that the decel pop has been eliminated; so far so good. On the second ride I wanted to make sure that some other mods from earlier this morning worked. I totally forgot about the adjustment but felt that the bike had more "bite" in the acceleration department and the bike was more fun to ride. I started thinking, what did I do different?. It then hit me that I made an adjustment to the tps!!! Totally surprised that 1/2 a millimeter could make so much difference.

Now my question for you is; would it be possible to write a tutorial from start to finish with pictures and details? I apologize upfront but the pictures are not clear and the directions are here and there. It still amazes me that a half millimeter can effect how the engine runs. Since this adjustment is very important to the operation and performance of the engine this should be a sticky for others to make the adjustment.

Invader; this is for you. I knew about your TPS fix for some time but was very hesitant to try without the special tool and pictures showing me what to measure. Well today after reading a post in the forum someone had adjusted their tps counterclockwise by half a millimeter and had good results. I did the same thing and can honestly tell you that there are changes in the engine characteristics. I took 2 test rides about 8 hours apart today. On the first ride I noticed that the decel pop has been eliminated; so far so good. On the second ride I wanted to make sure that some other mods from earlier this morning worked. I totally forgot about the adjustment but felt that the bike had more "bite" in the acceleration department and the bike was more fun to ride. I started thinking, what did I do different?. It then hit me that I made an adjustment to the tps!!! Totally surprised that 1/2 a millimeter could make sure much difference.

Now my question for you is; would it be possible to write a tutorial from start to finish with pictures and details? I apologize upfront but the pictures are not clear and the directions are here and there. It still amazes me that a half millimeter can effect how the engine runs. Since this adjustment is very important to the operation and performance of the engine this should be a sticky for others to make the adjustment.

+1 on that. Invader, be a good spot:D and do post some pictures to guide the TPS set up.:goodidea:
:cheers:

Look at the main (grey) throttle sensor's green alignment mark on its front from near your front left flasher, and note how it ligns up. Loosen sensor screw with T25 Torx tool. Rotate sensor counterclockwise by about half a millimeter as seen on pic. Adjust, then tighten Torx screw. Main throttle sensor's new position:

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/1555/shifter016.jpg (http://img80.imageshack.us/i/shifter016.jpg/)

Main throttle sensor Torx screw:

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/8755/shifter019.jpg (http://img96.imageshack.us/i/shifter019.jpg/)

Fast idle may then be higher. You can rotate subthrottle sensor (black, just above main throttle sensor) also counterclockwise with T25 Torx screw to reduce cold fast-idle rpm. I rotated mine to its maximum counterclockwise position, to which it was already near. Subthrottle sensor's new position:

http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/7711/throttlesensors001.jpg (http://img100.imageshack.us/i/throttlesensors001.jpg/)

invader ...you did it again...it was something i had in mind but never bothered...stop it plz,you know we have other jobs also,families etc??
i am kidding of course ,thanks for the great technical support you freely offer to this forum members

Super info, Invader.
Beats getting a Power commander. Cheers.

Great thread invader, this being my first EFI bike I was just going to post something about how the throttle response is anything but smooth compared to all the carbureted bikes I’ve owned. I’m a pretty able mechanic but have never dealt with EFI, this looks like something I can tackle on my own.
Awesome!

Thanks
Donn:thumb:

I've never had a problem with the throttle. The bike has tremendous compression. I hardly need to use my brake. But this week I decided to adjust the fast speed idle, except I adjusted the throttle sensor by mistake. Not knowing there are factory marks, I put it back roughly where I though it was originally. The throttle was totally on/off. Every time I hit a small bump, it's like the throttle was shut down. It was jerking me all over the place and that was at a steady 30mph. After reading this thread, I realized there were factory marks, so I adjusted it before heading to work. I moved it a little more counter clockwise because I wanted to make sure I wasn't tossed all over by the on/off condition of the throttle. What amazes me is how much different this makes the bike run. I have to use my brake more to stop since the compression (ok, not really compression but the effect of compression) is so much less. And it's so easy to make smooth shifts. Just a small change in position has a marked effect on the bike. So I hot glued a needle to the sensor and glued a piece of paper with marks to the back of the valve cover so I can make small movements of the sensor I know exactly where it's position. I want to see what effect this has on the bike and be able to precisely put it back to the best position. I wanted to measure the voltage, but it's impossible to get to the wires unless the seat and maybe the tank is removed. In any case, this adjustment makes a huge difference in the way the bike slows down when you back off on the throttle. The more you move it clockwise, the more on/off it becomes and the faster it slows down when you back off the throttle. Turn it counter clockwise, and the opposite is true. Thanks for the picture above. I'd never know there were factory marks if it hadn't been for that. Neil

I wanted to measure the voltage, but it's impossible to get to the wires unless the seat and maybe the tank is removed.

No need to remove anything. Just disconnect it at the sensor.

Ok, so I'm not that savvy with motor stuff. Could you bottom line translate this all for me? What will making this adjustment to the sub-throttle sensor do to performance, and how is it affecting the motor. It sounds like this will decrease the immediate engine breaking response, and also smooth roll on throttle response?

:thumb:This is the kind of info I appreciate.Ii'm not really into the porting, cams etc. anymore but optimization is right up my street.

Thanks for this great discussion. I'm a new rider. I tend to ride pretty mellow, like i always did with stick shift autos. In cars, i would get exceptional longevity out of both clutches and brakes, resulting from careful clutch control and low rpms, so clutch slipping was always really subtle. I find on this bike, howevef, that trying to acclerate from near idle rpms in first or second gear (such as coasting into a light that then turns green) causes the bike to buck and lurch forward (i am learning to just grab the clutch some to smooth this out). Does this tps adjustment smooth that out? I would love if this bike could smoothly pull from idle rpms.

I would love if this bike could smoothly pull from idle rpms

It does,. The trick is that the "sweet spot" or "friction zone" in the clutch is a very narrow band that only takes 1/16" to 1/8" of clutch lever movement. You can sit on the bike, drop it into first, keep your hand OFF the throttle (or at least held at idle) and simply ease out the clutch and then ease it in just as the bike starts to move. You can rock the bike back and forth this way and get used to that really small clutch zone.

I think the very narrow friction zone is what makes it lurchy for some folks. If you rely on throttle only at low speeds, it will be somewhat jerky.

If you rely on throttle only at low speeds, it will be somewhat jerky.

I still can't tell whether you think the TPS adjustment helps this or whether I just need to accept that accelerating from idle rpms in first or second always requires clutch slip. I know the bike can pull away from a stop at idle til the clutch is fully out (plenty of creepy crawly traffic in Seattle to practice this).

But to accelerate from that idle rpm requires pulling some clutch back in to create slip while the engine bucks through that first application of gas. Will the TPS adjustment help that?

Thanks. Sorry to be dense.

To the all who has done this adjustment, have you found your fuel consumption ?

I moved mine about a 1/2 a mm and noticed I'm only getting about 340 km before the gauge starts flashing ( +/- 17 liters used ) where as I always used to get about 380 km on the sam e amount of fuel.

Mine has stayed the same ... or maybe slighty better ... I have been keeping track lately ... riding aggressively ... around 45mpg ... cruising on multisurfaces ... dirt, gravel, rough, and smooth pavement ... 48-52mpg

I've lost about 25 klm's per tank. I can get it close to factory by riding easy but what's the fun in that.

TPS adjustment didn't affect my fuel mileage either... My driveability is absolutely excellent, with no need for any special method to launch smoothly or at slight throttle modulation at lower speeds and rpm's. Adjusting TPS up to spec also eliminated the backfire when starting to open throttle after slight engine-braking at lower rpm's with aftermarket slipon. The 6" long 1/8" ID vacuum coupler hose on throttle bodies also helped cure low rpm bog abruptness at low speeds. Synching the TB's, adjusting all my valves equally, and indexing my spark plugs helped even more. I also run without the TB sub-throttle plates.

Excuse me for resurrecting an old post..
But today I did this. Reset the idle speed, and the cold idle speed.
I set the sensor to this values: 1.070V idle, and 4.32V wot.
http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/2518/11092011140u.jpg (http://img820.imageshack.us/i/11092011140u.jpg/)

http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/4362/11092011141.jpg (http://img850.imageshack.us/i/11092011141.jpg/)

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/5959/11092011142.jpg (http://img225.imageshack.us/i/11092011142.jpg/)

Thanks Invader!!

Cool, Marcool :thumb:... What were the voltage outputs before, and how much better is it running now? Did you also rotate the subthrottle sensor counterclockwise to reduce increased cold fast idle rpm?

Cool, Marcool :thumb:... What were the voltage outputs before, and how much better is it running now? Did you also rotate the subthrottle sensor counterclockwise to reduce increased cold fast idle rpm?

I had to set my idle speed before, because it was very low, like 800-900 rpm.
Then I measure the tps, it was about 1.015V, and at wot it was 4.18v aprox.

The subthrottle sensor was adjusted clockwise, because after the idle adjustment the cold start was very low... So after the adjustment, cold start is about 1800 rpm.

And now, between 2800-3500 rpm the bike is very smooth, I like it more than ever :)

Next week I'll do the oil change and air filter, so I'll check again with a more accurate tach.

Greetings,
Marco.

I checked mine and using the bike tach at 1300 rpm it was 1.000 which is out of spec. I then set it to 1.02. Bike ran better. I keep the idle speed at 1,000 because I like it there. It was fine.

Today I set it to 1.03 volts at 1300. Bike ran better yet. Smoother off idle. Still turned the idle speed back to 1,000 when I was done. This leaves it at about 1.000 volt Seems good. Bike runs well anyhow.

OH yeah, I looked for an 02 sensor with no luck. How could it even pass federal emissions?

David

OH yeah, I looked for an 02 sensor with no luck. How could it even pass federal emissions?

David

American Versys has no O2 sensor... Where on earth are you?

It still passes emisisons because it's set lean enough at low rpm's with TPS set a bit low at throttle body's idle position. Called "Main Throttle Sensor Removal/Adjustment" in the service manual, but forbids any adjustment. It's just like the pilot fuel/air adjustment on carburators that are sealed off with a brass plug to discourage any attempt at adjusting the government imposed idle and low throttle opening lean air/fuel mixture for lowered emissions... The main throttle sensor does have to be properly readjusted if removed or replaced, although only the complete throttle body assembly with sensors and servo is available from Kawasaki.

As noted in service manual:

D-J Method and α - N Method: When the engine load is light like at idling or low speed, the ECU determines the injection quantity by calculating from the throttle vacuum (inlet air pressure sensor output voltage) and engine speed (crankshaft sensor output voltage). This method is called D-J method (low-speed mode). As the engine speed increases, and the engine load turns middle to heavy, the ECU determines the injection quantity by calculating from the throttle opening (throttle sensor output voltage) and the engine speed. This method is called α - N method (high-speed mode).

Invader, I finally decided to take a look at the post to see if it would help me resolve some of the issues I have had with my 09. I had decel "chugging" and a massive flat spot off idle that really had me starting to hate this bike.

I checked my TPS in reference to the paint marks and my California model was actually set clockwise of the paint mark (instead of dead on like I would expect). I loosened up the screw and rotated it counterclockwise with its final location similar to yours. I fired up the bike and the cold idle (outside air temp 80f) was about 1800 rpm. Once it warmed up the idle was slightly low at 750 rpm so I turned that up a little.

Anyway its as if this is a whole new motorcycle. All my issues are pretty much gone and that dreaded high freq buzz seems to be minimized as well. Going for a longer ride this afternoon to double check but this minute adjustment seems to make a HUGE difference. THANKS! :clap::thumb:

Right on, Mike. :thumb:
Interesting to learn that your Cali model was set clockwise of the original assembly reference mark for an even leaner and more problematic low end... Increased engine vibrations is in fact a symptom of exceedingly lean fuel mixture, which also makes it run hotter.

Coupling both TB's vacuum fitting with a 1/8" ID, 6" long hose also smooths out bottom end by balancing out the vacuum pulse a bit, as well as affecting fuel mixture at lower rpm and load from a slightly corrected inlet air pressure sensor input.

Yeap bike is better all around. The buzz has been minimized, the power off idle is perfect and there seems to be more power on the big end (8000 to redline). At any given speed less throttle is required to maintain that speed as well. Wish I would have done this last year or the year before. :D :thumb::thumb:

OK I have done another 200 miles since this weekend. The bike just keeps getting better and better. Pretty much everything I disliked about the bike is gone. I have a feeling my V will see lots of miles this winter. Oh and I rolled over 10k miles today. Woot!!

Nice info!

Yeah I still cannot believe how smooth the bike is now between 3000 and 5000 rpm. And the power is always there, no hic ups or chug chug, just nice smooth power as you roll on the throttle, even after a massive decel. You can tell the engine is running with less "effort" because even the exhaust note is completely different (quieter and deeper).

I did the TPS adjustment last evening and I took the bike this morning.
what can I say? thank you invader ;)

step by step:
I did everything visually (almost) because in the garage was not enough light...and I didn't have more than 5 minutes...
so I moved it a little bit counterclockwise... it seems it was too much because I didn't like the sound of the engine and the smell of exhaust... I stopped the engine and moved it back a little bit....
now..... wow.... I can feel that the exhaust note is more relax, the idle has less vibrations.... and the smell of the exhaust is cleaner...

I did a ride this morning and it's a completely different bike.... the buzz that came back in the last weeks after I fixed it last year.....almost disappear ...before was between 2500 and 4000... now I have it just a little bit below 3000rpm. at 3500 ( my usual ride) the bike is smoooooooooooothhhhhhhh.

I might play a little bit more with adjustment... but it's so nice now....:D

I wanted to know what do you recommend me to correct my bike tuning... actual map I´m using is working fine at middle and high revs (throttle response is great!!!) but is jerky at low revs... BTW, I have removed the snorkels and secondary plates, vacuum hose mod too. Maybe the voltage at idle I´m using is not correct, I have noticed also that cold start is not easy as it used to be... the bike starts at the second try so maybe timing is not right because as far as I know, the TPS sensor also regulates timing (or something like taht)... Am I right?
I will appreciate your help on this.

BTW... spark plugs are new.