Hello i have a Versys that i bought in july. it has about 2500 miles, and think its great. the fueling is very good except right off of idle. when opening the throttle from closed say for a tight turn it is hard to be smooth. (jerky?) i read on the other Versy forum (http://www.versys.co.uk/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=45) about the TPS adjustment. so i tried it today. i have only ridden about 50 miles so far but it runs great and it seems to have made a big difference in the jerky low speed and on off throttle. has anybody else tried it? i will post again after i ride more miles, and also check the fuel milage. you need to register to see the post (with instructions) on the other forum its under technical discussions Partial throttle 2800rpm Lean stumble,surge cure now with pics!

Very interesting, invisabiker. Thanks for bringing it to our attention... According to the service manual, standard output voltage at main throttle sensor is: DC 1.005 ∼ 1.035 V at idle throttle opening, and DC 4.2 ∼ 4.4 V at full throttle opening.
Sub-throttle sensor standard output voltage: DC 0.4 ∼ 0.6 V at idle throttle opening, and DC 3.825 ∼ 3.975 V at full throttle opening.

Here is the link: http://www.versys.co.uk/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=45&topic=4157.0

Ignition timing advance is affected by TPS and RPM inputs. Idle RPM went up by pre-advancing ignition timing. It's normally 10° BTDC @ 1300 rpm to 33° BTDC @ 5000+ rpm. Any change at idle and higher rpm's could be checked with a timing light.

the fueling is very good except right off of idle. when opening the throttle from closed say for a tight turn it is hard to be smooth. (jerky?)

Have you tried the vacuum hose mod??
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/showthread.php?t=661

i did do the vacume hose mod, but i didnt notice any difference.

interesting you say the lean stumble problem now has a cure....i hate that... my bike does it while trying to cruise around that rpm... i will have to check it out

I had done this modification on my '08 Versys and have now done it on my '09. It smooths out the low speed running of the engine and I think it helps. Just my two cents worth.

I had done this modification on my '08 Versys and have now done it on my '09. It smooths out the low speed running of the engine and I think it helps. Just my two cents worth.

The left TB's left IAP sensor hose fitting bore is larger than in the two TB vacuum access fittings. A 6" long, 1/8" ID hose on both TB vacuum access fittings which originally had the rubber caps on, works perfectly.

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/7090/standvac007.jpg (http://img192.imageshack.us/i/standvac007.jpg/)

Ahhhhhh perfecto. Thanks for the info. Ive noticed a weird stumble at take off. Its starting to concern me. Guess its just made that way. I have Emgos on the way. Guess all mod this at the same time.

Just to confirm, this will help that stumble with no negative effects?

BTW

The suspension help worked perfectly!

It does smooth out throttle response at low speeds without any ill effect on mine. Adjusting the TPS up to spec also helps cure the low end lean stumble and exhaust pop, especially around 2800 rpm. Instead of going through the throuble of measuring TPS output voltage, you can try rotating your main throttle sensor by about 1/2 mm by relating to the green index mark. You can then rotate subthrottle sensor also counterclockwise to reduce cold-engine fast-idle rpm if desired...

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1412

Look at the main (grey) throttle sensor's green alignment mark on its front from near your front left flasher, and note how it ligns up. Loosen sensor screw with T25 Torx tool. Rotate sensor counterclockwise by about half a millimeter as seen on pic. Adjust, then tighten Torx screw. Main throttle sensor's new position:

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/1555/shifter016.jpg (http://img80.imageshack.us/i/shifter016.jpg/)

Main throttle sensor Torx screw:

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/8755/shifter019.jpg (http://img96.imageshack.us/i/shifter019.jpg/)

Fast idle may then be higher. You can rotate subthrottle sensor (black, just above main throttle sensor) also counterclockwise with T25 Torx screw to reduce cold fast-idle rpm. I rotated mine to its maximum counterclockwise position, to which it was already near. Subthrottle sensor's new position:

http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/7711/throttlesensors001.jpg (http://img100.imageshack.us/i/throttlesensors001.jpg/)

Oh, I'm glad the suspensions advice helped too. Must be nice riding in big ol Texas all year long. :thumb:

It is nice. But damn it hot right now!

Yeah they just mentioned on the news yesterday that the entire planet is in its record breaking hottest ever summer overall. Northern hemisphere feels the most heat increase. I'm way up north, 100 miles due south of James Bay tip (bottom of Hudson Bay) and it's been already too hot, often in the 90's ambient.

Invader, Fuel injected newbi question. why does the mileage suffer from these adjustments?

Donn

Invader, Fuel injected newbi question. why does the mileage suffer from these adjustments?

Donn

If adjusted within spec ... there is no milege penalty ... If it is a random ... guess and by golly ... then it could get worse ... The computer interputs voltage only .... which in reality is the throttle position ... the TPS adjustment effectively adjusts fuel ( tells the computer how long the injectors are squirting ) at a given throttle setting ... more ... or less ...

Yeah they just mentioned on the news yesterday that the entire planet is in its record breaking hottest ever summer overall. Northern hemisphere feels the most heat increase. I'm way up north, 100 miles due south of James Bay tip (bottom of Hudson Bay) and it's been already too hot, often in the 90's ambient.

That's interesting. We've had a pretty mild summer in ND this year. Hardly broken into the 90s at all.

Something helped. Not sure if it was removing the sub throttle plates, or connecting the TB's vacuum fittings together, both of which I did today, but my low rpm hesitation is gone. I had installed a PC V and autotune when I switched to the Leo Vince GP pipe and blocked of the PAR valve. Even after a few weeks worth of accepting the autotune trim tables, I was still experiencing a bad miss in the lower gears at low rpm after downshifting for a corner, etc. One time it hiccupped so bad it shut the motor off. I would also notice it when blipping the throttle for downshifts to try and match the rpm's. I had already adjusted the TPS for the proper voltage range and as I mentioned earlier, the PC V and the autotune did nothing to help the problem. After a test ride earlier today, it looks like the problem is gone.

I had removed the subthrottle plates and PAIR valve, and replaced the stock exhaust system (+ tapered aluminum handlebars, etc) before my first ride on new Versys. I did the TPS adjustment, TB vacuum hose mod and TB vacuum synch adjustment later on... It already ran flawlessly, and it got even better after adjusting all my valves (in 0.18 mm/exh 0.26 mm) an indexing my spark plugs. MPG (57 per US gal: mixed city/hwy/bush roads), response, power and driveability is now better than ever. :thumb:

That's interesting. We've had a pretty mild summer in ND this year. Hardly broken into the 90s at all.

It did go up to 92.3, 93.4 and 94.3 in May, which was a bit alarming. Maximum in June was 83.5, and so far this month 87.1. It did go up to 100.94 in June 1995, and down to -45.4 in January 2004 (-49.54 in Jan 82).
This is actually one of the best summers in a long time after a couple of record breaking rainy and cool summers. It's been mostly sunny and dry, sitting in the low 80's to high 70's. :) I prefer being in the low 60's to low 70's.

I am getting an aftermarket exhaust in this week and want to do the PAIR mod. Can this be done with out taking the bike apart. Also I would like to see a pic of the mod, meaning what it looks like with just capping the ends, I want to make sure I am looking at the right hose to cap. thanks..

I sealed off the air suction valve on the valve cover with 1/4" aluminum plate, and the air source on the airbox with RTV silicone. I also removed the air switching valve unit by connecting its two wires together to prevent triggering the 'FI' warning light...

http://hotimg25.fotki.com/a/209_196/226_80/intake-002.jpg (http://hotimg25.fotki.com/p/a/209_196/226_80/intake-002.jpg)
http://hotimg23.fotki.com/a/209_196/226_80/intake-003.jpg (http://hotimg23.fotki.com/p/a/209_196/226_80/intake-003.jpg)

Driven PAIR Valve Block Off Plate and rubber boot for air box - $20.00
http://www.blueridgeperformance.net/brpengines.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kawasaki-AIS-Smog-Block-Off-Plates-ZX6-ZX10-ZX14-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c191c1102QQitemZ12068 0354050QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Air induction block off plates in pairs (no airbox rubber boot):

Ivan's # AK-KAW3: http://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/other.htm

http://www.indysuperbike.com/customer/product.php?productid=114952

Graves # AB_011: http://www.gravesport.com/Graves-Motorsports-Smog-Block-Off-Plates-for-Yamaha-Kawasaki-Sport-Bikes.html

http://www.kneedraggers.com/details/Graves_Smog_Block_Off_Plates_Kawasaki_ZX10R--625120.html

Muzzy # 0038-00008: http://www.muzzys.com/block-off_plates/index.html

http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=342295

Circuit 1 # EP-K1-03: http://www.circuit1.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=shopping.detail&prodid=260

http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/product/CIRCUIT-1-SMOG-BLOCK-OFF-PLATES/?catalogId=112498

Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-KAWASAKI-R1-R6-ZX6-ZX10R-SMOG-BLOCK-OFF-PLATES-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3362be3831QQitemZ22069 9965489QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

hi invader,
can the PAIR be deactivated by just blocking off with inserting a marble at the connection between the air box and the PAIR solenoid, while leaving everything else as it is?
please advise.
thanks

Yes, a marble that fits snuggly in the hose would serve the same purpose, and block any air admission to the PAIR valve.

ok, thks for your input, i had a CS1 slip-on with fuelpak installed. currently using 2010 settings for the fuelpak, and i am getting a lot of popping on decel, hope this will eliminate or t least minimize it.
also, does removing the baffle affect the mapping? fuel economy?
pls advise
thanks
peng

I recently did just that, and it made a noticeable difference. I had made a custom exhaust (Cherry bomb with db insert) and noticed the popping on decel. I decided to block the hose to the pair valve with a rubber cork that fit in tightly. I then found a plastic cap to put on the air pump and taped it in place. I kept it connected so there was no FI error. While the tank and air box where off I did the vacuum mod and again it made a noticeable difference a low rpm. This way if I want to put it all back to stock I still can.

Now the bike with the new exhaust runs very smooth. No low rpm jerking or hesitation, and no popping on decel. I can't say that the exhaust in anyway improves performance, but I love the sound and it doesn't hinder or decrease performance.

What´s the effect of disconnecting the Pair Valve?

also, does removing the baffle affect the mapping? fuel economy?
pls advise
thanks
peng

Mapping never changes. Fuel economy should'nt be affected either.

What´s the effect of disconnecting the Pair Valve?

It prevents air admission to the exhaust ports under deceleration.

I understand... but now my question is the opposite... why the manufacturer install those valves? Maybe something about emissions, most of the time those "not much useful stuff" is for emission issues. Just a thought...

It reduces emissios by allowing a more complete combustion of unburnt gasses, and reduces strain on catalytic converter in stock muffler.

Thanks Invader...
I hope I can meet you guys up there in US. Have you ever made a Versys owners meeting?

The left TB's left IAP sensor hose fitting bore is larger than in the two TB vacuum access fittings. A 6" long, 1/8" ID hose on both TB vacuum access fittings which originally had the rubber caps on, works perfectly.

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/7090/standvac007.jpg (http://img192.imageshack.us/i/standvac007.jpg/)

I just did this and the TPS adjustment on my 2010 and it solved the popping and stumbling issues right away... The bike runs much better overall now... Thanks Invader...

Richard