Has anyone tried mounting one of these systems to the Versys?

Got any input feel free, I am about to go there.

Possible problems:
1. No room for servo and vacuum tank??
After researching, seems the vacuum tank is not needed in all cases, just a one way vacuum valve from napa may work.
May be room for servo on left side under seat/battery area.

2. LED brake light may present a problem to the electonics that shut off CC??
A relay triggered by brake circuit should fix this problem.

3. How to mount to the throttles without creating a future problem area, ie.. CC cable does not tangle with throttles or cause them to lockup?
May be possible to drill and tap a 6-32 hole on the idle adjust tab to mount control cable, but this would have to pull from front.

Okay, building a bellcrank to attach to the throttle assembly is the main problem, it appears that removing the end piece (where the throttle cables attach) is a major no no. Adjusted at the factory so I willl not go there. I will attempt to build a little bolt-on/clamp type bell crank for the CC to attach. 8/2/08 DONE.

4. Some motorcycles have reported a problem tripping the CC off with clutch causing the motor to rev up??
A relay triggered by starter lockout switch (pulling the clutch) will solve this on the Versys.
I have been unable to hookup a relay to clutch circuit as of 8/9/08.

Related links: http://www.frontiernet.net/~st1300rider/05-16-05/ecc.htm
http://74.50.1.242/ralphuscruisecontrolinstallation.shtml

Wish I could contribute, but I can't. I will however, be watching this thread because I've been wondering the same thing. I had a colleague that installed on on a Yamaha cruiser and then moved it over to a BMW touring bike I think. He spoke very highly of the unit. I gathered from him that the install was not terribly complicated.

There were a large number of folks on the ST-Riders board that made this conversion. With the big 4 cyl engines, there was a toss-up of those that needed the vacuum reservoir and those that didn't. Both 1100 and 1300 engines were converted.

The use of the chain was very important in the cable linkage as it provided the slack to ensure the CC didn't interfere with normal daily use of the throttle when the CC was switched off.

Red

Okay, Gustav came through this morning (Shreveport) so we have been getting rain for the last 24 hours.

Ran to Radio Shack and picked up some relays and blade connectors.

Installed servo on left side at front of gas tank and inside fairing. Used stock mount, just had to trim off bottom of one side so it would fit. Mounted it on top left bolt of radiator trim cover. Had to move the vacuum switch that connects to our vacuum mod as it was in the way. Just put it below its mount and Audiovox servo mounts fine, clears forks by 1/8", whew.

Ran cable from servo down left side below tank then under the battery tray and under the shock on right side. There is an unused tab (6mm nut) on the right that I bent in towards engine to make a proper mount and allign with throttle. Mounted my homemade throttle link.

Tomorrow will attack the wiring and vacuum hookup. Also making an adaptor for the clutch housing mount on handlebar so I can make a mount for the controls.

I know which wires to hook to I believe but must find them with easy access. Plan to test it first with the dianostic led on servo then make final wireing. Lots of excess wire to get rid of when I figure out where to connect to.

1. Audiovox tach = BLUE Versys = LIGHT BLUE (at the dash)
2. Audiovox VSS (speed) = GRAY Versys = PINK (I didn't use this hookup)
3. Audiovox brake = PURPLE Versys = BLUE w RED TRACER (at taillight)

I will take some pictures tomorrow when I take the radiator trim off to get to the vacuum hookup on servo so you can see the stock mount modified from servo.

There are several ways to make a throttle connection, I chose to not disturb the stock throttle and just clamp to the outer part so as not to interfere with the throttle cables. I turned the 6061 part on the lathe and under cut so it would grab the throttle and not let go hopefully. If it turns out that it slips then I will most likely drill and tap the part for 10-32 bolt and drill a hole to receive in throttle.

Welp, I'm at the arrrgggg part of the install. Everything connected and linkage good to go, but no activation of servo.

Diagnostics LED (on Audiovox servo) shows all switches working except when you put the brake on.

Tested vacuum, check valve works. Versys is rated at about 10in/HG, which should be plenty to run servo???

I suspect the LED tail/brake light is killing the deal. I used a relay for the trip, supplies 12V when brake on, but no go. Hooked directly to the brakelight wire, also supplies 12V when the brakelight is on, no go.

Talked to Audiovox tech (course they do not support motorcycles) but he did say that I should get the dianostic LED to light when applying brake, so. I get no light, so system thinks brake is on or the brakelight bulb is burned out (safety feature for Audiovox)???

Any LED brakelight vs Old style bulb gurus out there? For the life of me I can not understand why it doesn't work when it shows 12V on the meter when tripped, what am I missing here?

After thought, think the standard bulb is acting like a resistor to ground where the LED doesn't.

Trying a fix around the LED taillight no ground problem, will use a relay with the Versys brakelight wire as trigger for the relay. A standard 1157 bulb is hooked to ground and to the PURPLE wire to the Cruise Control, this should trick the CC to believe a real brake light is on.

Will test in the morning.

P.S. Rats, the picture is not very clear. The brown wire is the trigger from stock taillight wiring. The red goes to power of Cruise Control Servo. Brown on near side of relay is ground and also is soldered to the bulb. The other side (looks like a red wire going there but it is a brown one) gets power when relay is triggered and lights the bulb.

The CC saga continues. Tested today, still no go, but I can feel the motor cutting out (air leak) when I try to engage CC. I used fuel line for the vacuum hose mod several weeks ago, and think it is leaking. Going in and changing all that out. Check back later.

Built Reservoir Vacuum Tank out of 1-1/2" x 6" PVC pipe and 2 caps. Installed vacuum check valve (from autoparts store) and T fitting (from audiovox stuff) with 2 ton epoxy. Will mount above servo on left side between gas tank and side fairing.

Versys guy

If the problem is in the brake circuit you can confirm by running the purple wire from the servo directly to ground and seeing if it will set. I installed a relay and used the brake wire under the seat as the trigger. I have had my ccs-100 installed and working for several months now without any problems. I have installed the audivox unit several times and the only problem I have had was with this installation. The problem ended up being one of the dip switches was not set to on or off from the factory. It was in the middle of its throw. The vacuum cannister will not stop the cruise from setting. It is to supply extra vacuum to the servo when it needs it to maintain speed when going up hills.

This is what I did for my brake hook up...

Regular SPDT 5-Pin Relay (Single Pole Double Throw Relay):
- Purple wire from Servo to terminal 30.
- Ground terminals 87a and 85.
- Put a plug on terminal 87 (not used).
- Brake pedal wire to terminal 86.

I'm assuming you have the blinking light indicating a good signal from your coil and a flash from the LED when you have the system on and you push the set button. When the brake signal is good it will light the LEd on the servo when you push the brake peddle.

If you have it working congrats if not maybe something here will help.

David

Hey Wngrr, thanks for the reply and help.

Still trying all possibilities. Ditched the 1-1/2" x 6" vacuum reservoir and just glued up a 2" x 6" with checkvalve. Waiting for the epoxy to cure.

I have it half working, that is, it will engage say at 55mph, jumps up to 57 on engage, then holds for like 1 or 2 seconds then tapers to a slow decel. Seems like a vacuum leak.

I took the head off the servo 10 minutes ago and put grease on the 3 O-rings that seal the vacuum pipes to the diaphram unit.

I do get light at led for ON, SET, ACCEL and blinking from my tach input (light blue from dash on the Versys), but I get no light when I light brake light.
Okay, just grounded the purple to frame and it did light the LED. I got you now, looks like I need another/different relay. Thanks for turning my light bulb on!!

Sounds like you are on the right track in looking for a vacuum leak. If you have access to a vacuum gauge you can find out really fast if you have issues. I use a long piece of vacuum hose to tie into the system and zip tie the gauge up around to bars so I can see it while i ride. I didn't want to hassle with building a vacuum tank so I have pruchased one with a built in check valve. I got the latest one from Murphs.

I also used one of thier relay harnesses on this install and really liked it.

What do you have your dip switches set?

When you get the bugs worked out you will love it.

Already love it, but it is like Microsoft at this point, boot it up and then it blows up, must reboot.

I never got the brake light to light the LED before so I am addressing that problem first.

I do have a vacuum guage and it showed 12in/HG but drops to zero when engage sometimes and then trys to hold at 5 in/HG. That is what got me going on the vacuum leak. No leak at tank or servo diaphram while static tho, figured it must be the solenoids valves that might be leaking.

What did you do to connect linkage to throttle? I built a custom deal for lack of being able to do something simple.

P.S. Just did a test run, nothing. Will put on the new vacuum reservoir also think one of my vacuum lines might be bad (really is a fuel line) so going to replace throttle body 2 with good vacuum line so all will be done right.

My dip switches:
1. off 5000ppm
2. on
3. off tach only
4. on light weight vehicles high HP
5. off
6. off control switch normally open
7. off tach source ECM

Well, I must have a defective Audioivox. I have all the correct lights, no vacuum leaks and tank now shows 18in/HG between tank and servo, more than I had with the smaller tank. But now, I get nothing, none of the solenoids are working, will not engage servo diaphram. Done for the day, golf tomorrow and next day, then maybe try and get AudioVox to give me a replacement.

You might try moving all of the dip switches to the wrong position and then back to the correct. I had the same issues until i found one dip switch was not completely in the correct postion. Do you have the led for the brake now?

i drilled a hole in the bell crank at the end of the throttle shaft and used the small bolt and eyelet that came with the kit.

I have read of some people having problems with the system because they didn't have a full 12 volts on the power line to the servo. I dought that is the problem since the servo is responding correctly, but might be worth checking.

good luck..

Also, my dip settings are the same except for the first. I'm pretty sure I used 2000 ppm but that wouldn't keep the servo from setting.

You might try moving all of the dip switches to the wrong position and then back to the correct. I had the same issues until i found one dip switch was not completely in the correct postion. Do you have the led for the brake now?

Yep, did that, moved all dip switches just in case, course they were all seated, at least felt like it. I do have the brake light now, it comes on after you release the brake.

i drilled a hole in the bell crank at the end of the throttle shaft and used the small bolt and eyelet that came with the kit.

If you could post a picture of that other Versys owners might use it. Not many people are going to the trouble I did building a custom clamp out of 6061.

I have read of some people having problems with the system because they didn't have a full 12 volts on the power line to the servo. I dought that is the problem since the servo is responding correctly, but might be worth checking.

My power was coming from brake, but I changed it to fused power from battery ign on. Will check voltage.

good luck..

Thanks

Also, my dip settings are the same except for the first. I'm pretty sure I used 2000 ppm but that wouldn't keep the servo from setting.

I started at 4000 but it jerked really hard when setting.

Sent the servo back to AudioVox to repair thursday 9/11/08. I am confident it will be working when I get it back. More later.

Hi versys guy, did you ever get this working? I want to install the same thing on my V and had been reading your thread with great interest.

Hi versys guy, did you ever get this working? I want to install the same thing on my V and had been reading your thread with great interest.

Yes and No. I got it all mounted (no small feat) but had trouble with the LED brake light not allowing it to set or turn off correctly. I used a relay off the brake light and then a normal 1057 bulb soldered across the relay to trick it to properly load the circuit so it would activate.

Never did identify the clutch switch wire code to also cancel CC.

The vacuum hookup messes with the throttle bodies on low speed. I also used a vacuum tank made out of 2" PVC. It all will fit on left side under cowl believe it or not, ha. The cable must snake all the way around and under the tail section and back to the throttle.

I will give you the little aluminum piece I machined to clamp over the throttle wheel if you want to try it.

I have a Tiger 1050 now (sold the Versys right in the middle of this mod) and will be hooking up the CC on it this spring probably.

That would be really awesome, I would be happy to cover your shipping to me for it. Please PM so I can paypal you a few bucks. To pay it forward I will add to your detailed thread with my own installation process, hopefully I will find the clues to the items you ran out of time to troubleshoot. BTW, love the Tiger, good luck with it.

PM sent. No need to pay, pay it forward, hope you can use the part. Worked great by the way.

Just wanted to post up to let everyone know I got the Audiovox installed and working. It was no small task, all said maybe 10 hours worth of work, but a lot of that time was trial and error for fitting the servo, van can and running the wires, I bet I could do it again in half that time.

Anyway, I took about 50 pics of each and every step, problem and solution as I went along, at some point I will make a step by step if there are interested parties let me know and I will post it up.

defintely interested.

I am also very interested in this project. I know it's a lot of work to put one of these reports together but it would be very much appreciated.

Okay give me a few days and I will post a write up.

We would all like to see your project. It might even convince me into trying it. Thanks in advance.

Marc, any update? I'm really hoping to do this to as well.

Thanks!

Steve

Sorry about the delay. I wanted to be sure the darn thing worked outside of my garage first, I also had to adjust some of the mounts for the vac can. I finally had a few days of warm enough temps to melt the ice and went out for a test ride. The first test failed and after some adjustments of the dip switches the cruise works great. Get on the highway, set it at whatever speed and let go, up hill, down hill doesn't matter, the cruise holds the speed.

Tested front and rear brake, both turn the cruise off when engaged and also the clutch, pull it in, the bike revs maybe 200 RPM and the cruise shuts off. Awesome.

Hopefully I can start a write up in the next few days. Hang in there. I can tell you that your best option is to get the following:

Cruise with vac can from www.murphskits.com not the cheapest, but it has the vac canister, and the other items will also come from him, so when you shop price with shipping it works out.

ZX14 billet control pad mount from Murphs kits as well.

SPDT relay with pig tail from Murphs kits (needed for the LED tail light)

Soldering iron if you do not have one.

Shrink tubing.

Posi-Locs - Much better than crimp locks. I got mine with my fuse block from www.easternbeaver.com You need at least 4 taps and 4 locks, I would get red, blue and yellow, just to have extra.

About three foot of vac tubing, check the size of what is on the TB's now, you will need the same size. The kit has a "T" fitting that will work for you.

Cable ties, both the tiny small ones and 6" sized ones.

Wire loom, small size (3/8 inch), about 3 feet.

Wire loom 1/2 inch, about a foot or two.

Dialectic grease.

Small fuse block like the one I used here http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/3_Circuit/3_circuit.html highly recommended, great guy, arrived in 4 days. Comes all wired and with a relay already, very plug and play.

I also had him add a ground loom onto it so I didn't have to run extra ground wires, you'll need two for the cruise (you can tie them together if you like) and one or two for the relay at the brakes (depending on which method you use to wire it). I also wired in my GPS to the fuse block while I was at it, so you may or may not need this.



That will be all the supplies you need. The rest is simply a step by step install I will post here soon. Off the top of my head, the dip switches will be ALL OFF, except the last switch, that is left ON and you will REMOVE the black jumper (the cruise instructions show you this, it is obvious). You will tap the black/red coil wire from the number one (left side) coil near the plug and you can tap power for the control pad lights up at the headlight running light on the right side and install and eyelet onto the ground wire and attach it to a screw which holds the coolant overflow bottle. I am pretty sure this is a grey wire for power and a black wire for ground, they are short wires, thus why I located them up front.

The main cruise unit goes under the seat where the toolkit is and you use the toolkit strap to hold it in place. The cruise cable goes toward the left side of the bike and will loop around under the seat and on the right side, it will dip to the inside of the shock and then up to the throttle linkage, there is a small frame tab which is unused on the right side, just forward of the shock, it is tapped for a 10mm bolt, which is in your cruise kit, you will use a holder and the bolt to hold your cable in place. It will pretty much follow the main wiring harness. (it will make sense when I post pics and comments).

The relay for the brakes will mount right under a screw in the back part under the seat where the brake wires are. (again you'll get it when I post pics)

The wires from the control pad will follow the frame and main wiring on the right side of the bike to the back of the cruise unit, the wiring harness is in two parts, connected by a clip, use some dialectic grease in there and connect it, to keep it water tight. Run the wires from the control pad in wire loom and follow the stock wire routing from the handlebar switch to the steering headstock and under the tank to the back of the bike. The wiring is pretty simple:

Blue wire goes to the coil wire I mentioned.
Two power wires get power from your switched fuse block. This is important, this must be off when the bike is off.
Ground to ground
The grey and black wire in a separate black sleeve are not used, coil or clip them off.
Purple goes to your relay wiring from the tail lights. (download this document http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/docs/c14cc-install.htm and follow the relay wiring diagram, this is for a ZX14, but we have the same brake light set up)

The vac can goes on the left side of the bike, behind the plastic panel, it is a tight fit, I used some of those rubber self stick bumpers which are used to protect walls from pictures and furniture to keep the can from moving or rubbing on the tank, works perfectly and is 100% invisible. Again, when I post pics you will get it. You will “T” the two vac lines coming off the synch ports of the TB’s and then run a line from there to the vac can, then another line from the can to the cruise unit along the left side of the bike. If you are careful you can do this so that you cannot see the vac lines at all. Even though they are tight, I put a small cable tie around all vac line connections to ensure they stay tight and do not come off. Nothing worse than a vac leak.

Marc, great to hear it works! I have not bought my V yet, and honestly if this didn't work I was going have to re-evaluate my decision! Cant wait to see your write up.

Thanks again,

Steve

Hey guys, I uploaded a bunch of pics of the install here, hope this stuff is helping....

http://s198.photobucket.com/albums/aa251/marc11_photos/Kawi%20Cruise%20Pics/

Marc, look's like you used Versysguy's clamp to attach the cable linkage. Not having access to a machine shop could pose a major issue... I'll have to do some exploring...

Marc, look's like you used Versysguy's clamp to attach the cable linkage. Not having access to a machine shop could pose a major issue... I'll have to do some exploring...


I did, but to be honest, it was nice to have, but didn't really make that much of a difference during the install, it saved a step and maybe 30 min. If you look at the C114 install directions I mentioned above, it has the same throttle pull set up as the Versys, you can use those directions on your V and install the throttle pull the exact same way. Not a big deal at all. The Versys is nothing special in this area, I have read install directions for the ST1300, FJR, C-14, SV and a host of others, they are all basically the same, the hardest part is wiring the tail light, the coil pick up and locating the vac can and cruise unit, I solved all those problems for you, the rest is cake work.

Marc, I just want to verify where you attached the Vac hose to. I assume that you removed the two caps over the throttle body sync ports and then ran hose between them and then used a T fitting to go to the canister? This in essence is also the vac mod as discussed in other threads.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2466/3657309752_933e2d602b.jpg

Yes, that is exactly what I did.

Great! Thanks for the speedy response. I hope to get it finished tonight, and post some more pics of my install.

what is the cost of the ccs100 unit? this looks like something i'm gona want to do for sure

I think everything set me back about $250, that is for the CCS, vac can, bracked for the control pad, posi locks, relay for the tail light and a small fuse block.

Guys, I am really scratching my head on this one. How do I make the throttle connection? PICTURES PLEASE?
There are 2- Tangs on the bell Crank for throttle.
1-Tang 1 is the most logical place to connect the cable, however, there is not enough throw for the cruise control. IF you were to go up a steep hill, the Cruise control would run out of throttle since it could only pull less than half throttle.

2- Tang 2 is on the back side of the bell crank, which is the keeper for the return spring. This is a tiny tedious place to attach the cable too, and there is no clearance for cable routing.

The only other option is too drill the bell crank itself between the 2 cables. You would need to be a surgeon, and then how to fasten?

I’m perplexed.
:huh:

I lucked out and another member gave me a clamp he made, but there are tons of ways to attach it. Drilling a hole in the throttle pull plate is the easiest, you attach with the included eyelet and screw, be sure to use a little blue loc-tite. You can also clamp onto the throttle cable.

Either way there is a ton of chain to use, so I cannot believe there isn't enough throw, if not, just get more chain from the hardware store.

Search for ZX14 and C14 install directions to see lots of pics for options.

@marc11- I think drilling the bellcrank at the front side between the 2 cables will be the best option other than getting a custom clamp like yours. because when I pull the throttle stop tang back parallel to the existing bracket where you would mount the cable, I am only at 1/2 throttle. The issue is not lack of chain or lack of cable,but simply lack of throttle throw. Since your CC clamp is taller than the bell crank and foward, when the CC pulls it, it will pull the throttle all the way open or at least close to it. From what I saw the zx-14 mounting is different.

I'll take a couple of pics on how I did this and post them in the morning. I did make a bracket out of aluminum and drilled and tapped the bellcrank. I used the existing bracket on the frame to mount the cable.

I mounted the cruise control in the left fairing, as there is not room under a Corbin saddle (Corbin uses a custom seat base that is deeper). Under the seat is my vacuum reservoir. Two 1 1/4 sections of PVC pipe capped on the ends with a vacuum check valve epoxied in one and the other two connections teed together.

@marc11- I think drilling the bellcrank at the front side between the 2 cables will be the best option other than getting a custom clamp like yours. because when I pull the throttle stop tang back parallel to the existing bracket where you would mount the cable, I am only at 1/2 throttle. The issue is not lack of chain or lack of cable,but simply lack of throttle throw. Since your CC clamp is taller than the bell crank and foward, when the CC pulls it, it will pull the throttle all the way open or at least close to it. From what I saw the zx-14 mounting is different.


Keep in mind you do not need that much throttle movement. 1/4 throttle may be all you need. Next time you are riding on the highway take notice of home much throttle you are using to maintain your average steady speed, that is about all the cruise needs, so if you can get 1/2 throttle pull that is more than enough.

As promised, here are a couple of pics of how I made the connection to the throttle bellcrank.
I made it from a bit of aluminium strap that I picked up at ACE hardware. I drilled and tapped the bellcrank and used blue loctite. I also picked up some black nylon spacers to stand-off from the bellcrank by a bit. The chain connector is double-nutted as it needs to swivel.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Ah you made your own clamp to mimic my custom one, brilliant!

Can this still be purchased anywhere? It seems Audovox has stopped making it (at least according to Murphs' Kits)

Brilliant BScot! Why didnt I think of that?


Camaroz1985- the CSS-100 is out of production. Murph at Murph's kits has a line on getting them, but that will not be until 2011. If you want one, you will pay for it.

I have a Audiovox Ultracruise II 250-1316 on my ford ranger. I am thinking of installing it on the Versys. It doesnt require vacuum lines. Has anybody messed with this version on the Versys?

Audiovox CCS-100 can be found on Craigslist sometimes. I bought mine for $65 new in the box. You got to be patient.

Use something like http://www.searchtempest.com/

I search in a large area then once I find what I need contact and ask them to ship if I'm interested. I've bought several items this way with great results.

Maybe I shouldn't give up my secrets...:topsecret:

I have a Audiovox Ultracruise II 250-1316 on my ford ranger. I am thinking of installing it on the Versys. It doesnt require vacuum lines. Has anybody messed with this version on the Versys?

I believe that it was used sucessfully here http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4184

"Maybe I shouldn't give up my secrets... :topsecret "
No, but I'm glad you did!:thanx:

Audiovox CCS-100 can be found on Craigslist sometimes. I bought mine for $65 new in the box. You got to be patient.

Use something like http://www.searchtempest.com/

I search in a large area then once I find what I need contact and ask them to ship if I'm interested. I've bought several items this way with great results.

Maybe I shouldn't give up my secrets...:topsecret:

I use that method too, just haven't looked that deep into it.

Thanks!

Are there other cruise control units made by other companies, maybe for street rods and custom cars that could work?

The only ones that I know of are the 2 audiovox/rostra units. One being the vaccum installed above and the other is the electronic. MC Cruise makes one for a kings ransom. They are in AU.

Is this the coil?

Pic too small to see. Coil pick up wire is on top of the valve cover part of the spark plug wire/cap.

Marc11- This is the 3rd picture on post #4 of this thread.

Then NO that is not the coil, that is something you move to mount the canister under the left side fairing. The coils are stick type and are part of the plug wire/cap, there are two small wires going to each coil, you tap one of them. It is all very obvious once the tank is off and you are looking at the spark plug wires.

Excellent thanks. I ripped it down last night, and didnt see the coil, but it was getting late. I must admit, Im a little nervous about tapping those tiny wires!

So was I, but you get over it. Just be sure to either SOLDER or us POSI-Locks to make your connection and you'll be fine. Mine has been tapped for over a year through all sorts of weather without any issue.

BTW-

What is the cannister for? What does it do? Do you really need one? I did one of these on an FJR1300 and didn't use a the cannister. No issues. I am thinking about trying it without due to a lack of space (and it being more crap to contend with.)

It is for vac reserve. The Versys doesn't make enough engine vac to give the cruise the ability to pull the throttle when under load like going up a hill. The Versys DOES need one, in fact every installation I have read for the ST1300, FJR and C-14 all used one so I am surprised your FJR didn't need one.

There is enough space for it, the can goes under the left side fairing, the cruise module goes under the seat where the tool kit is. Easy. You can try it without, but I doubt you will be able to hold speed under much of a load.

"You will tap the black/red coil wire from the number one (left side) coil near the plug"

Installing this right now, and removed L plug wire,. There is not a Black/Red Wire. There is black/tan dot, Red/tan dot wire. I see a red/blk up there is bit, that must be the connection?

Well, I got it all back together and NOTHING. I wonder if I tapped the wrong wire for the coil. It doesnt jerk or do anything. Ideas for troubleshooting?

Nothing as in on the road testing? What speed did you set the cruise at? What did you set your dip switches at? Did you tap the same wire from the coil as in my pictures? If you take the cover off the back of the unit, make sure you see a green light, and then make sure the light goes out when you step on the rear or grab the front brake.

No there is nothing at all. Not a lurch or anything going down the road.I tested the switch. That works. I hear my brake relay clicking when I hit the brake. These are stupidly simple things when you get them to work, and the last time I had an issue installing once of these it was the same thing NOTHING. That was due to my help cutting the blue wire and removing the resistor for me. Hence the Coil wire. I followed the left spark plug wires up to the right side of the bike by the goose neck area. I tapped the Red/Black wire there. I did NOT tap the Black wire with a Tan dot that goes to the Left spark plug. There is probably my issue?
I DONT WANT REMOVE THAT DAMN TANK AND AIRBOX AGAIN!! :mad:
Is there another source I can find?

I read at the start of this thread:
****1.Audiovox tach = BLUE Versys = LIGHT BLUE (at the dash)****
2. Audiovox VSS (speed) = GRAY Versys = PINK (I didn't use this hookup)
3. Audiovox brake = PURPLE Versys = BLUE w RED TRACER (at taillight)

Where is this light blue wire, and is it a valid source?

Go back and read my thread a few pages back, I outlined the exact wires to use. IIRC you tap only the coil wire, black/red is correct, I did it near the coil that is your pulse source. Also, there is a jumper within the unit, I forget if it needs to be in or out, but the instructions from Audiovox say, did you follow that? And did you set your dip switches?

Success! It works.

I bit the bullet and removed the tank and airbox again. This time I got the right wire (Black /Tan dot.) I do have a few issues though. I set one of the dip switches for high power light vehicles ( or something like that.) The CC has a tendency to keep speeding up. Not Sure why? I don't have an vacuum canister, but I dont think that is the issue. Must be the speed setting perhaps? For the most part is works great.

Here is how i did away with the control mount, I bought this switch from Pro machine, I needed to buy a backing for it and a few bolts. Then bought a m/o/m SPDT switch from digitech.

Follow up:
works great now. All dip Switches off except #1.

IMHO there is no need for a vacuum canister. CC holds very well at highway speeds +2 or 3 mph at most. Holds steady at 30mph very slight surging.
I used 1 cheap check valve with CC tubing supplied in the kit and that's it.



For anyone wanting a recap on wiring:

CC Unit:
Remove black Jumper plug (not needed)

My dip switches:
1. on 5000ppm
2. off
3. off tach only
4. off light weight vehicles high HP
5. off
6. off control switch normally open
7. off tach source ECM

CC Gray & black wire (together with connectors on them)-NOT USED
CC Red Wire- Aways 12v (good idea to use a switched power block.
CC Black Wire - ground
CC Blue Wire - Left spark plug wire Black/tan dot (DO NOT REMOVE RED RESISTOR ON BLUE WIRE, CC WILL NOT WORK!)
CC Purple Wire - Blue Wire on Relay (or blue tail light wire, however everyone says this will not work without a relay)


Tail light wiring:

Switched 12volt source for a power block: Red wire (in pair with red and blackw/yellow stripe)

Brake Light power source for Cruise control: Blue wire (with red/blue/black bundle on the tail light.)



Murphs Kit SPDT Relay wiring:

Relay terminal 87a Red wire - Ground
Relay terminal 86 Black Wire - Ground
Relay Terminal 85 white wire- Versys Blue break light
Relay Terminal 87 yellow wire - Versys Blue break light
Relay terminal 30 Blue wire- CC purple wire


Control Pad-

Orange wire- Switched 12volt source

Switch Method:

Notes: you will not need any of the control pad side wiring. There is plenty of wire from CC unit.
From 12v Power source, use yellow posilock connector to connect 12v powersource& red CC wire. on the other side of posilock run the rest up to handbar switch.


1 Switch Method:CC WILL ALWAY BE ON IN THIS CONFIGURATION!

1- SPDT Momentary Switch (MOM/OFF/MOM

CC yellow=SET/ACCEL
CC Green= Resume/SLow
CC Red- 12v Power
CC Brown- Hell I forget,RTFM

Solder Red and Brown wire to center pole (OFF)
Solder green to one (MOM) Pole, and yellow to other (MOM) pole

2 Switch Method:

1- On/OFF switch
1- SPDT Momentary Switch (MOM/OFF/MOM

on/off- Solder red 12v wire on 1 pole, brown + jumper wire to other pole.

Solder jumper wire to center pole (OFF)
Solder green to one (MOM) Pole, and yellow to other (MOM) pole


I would like to personally thank all of you for your help with this install. :thanx:

Good news, it is great having it isn't it? Interesting you say it doesn't need a vac can, have you used it on hills? It holds the speed?

Love the control unit, but why did you go that route over the pad supplied, looks?

It is great! I love it.

I have not tired on steep hills, just got it working last night and every hill I came upon, had traffic and I had to slow. If it does not work on steep hills, that would be a trade off I will make. In truth, I do need to test some more.

Had a CC on my FJR. I mounted the CC Control pad, and had nothing but problem with it coming off its mount, and getting water in it. Plus, I am not found of the looks of it. It's always an issue of "where the hell am I going to put this" and how to put it there. After Searching high and low, and I do mean High and low on the net, I found the PMR switch mount. I liked the looks if it, and since there is not enough room in the left handlebar control with for another toggle switch,I decided to go the PRM route since its a nice looking switch. What I didnt know was that the back of the unit is open. It also didn't come with a backing plate for the bar as its designed to mount to existing hyabusa controls. It was also very expensive. 79 bucks + shipping + 10 dollars for an extra switch + 7 dollars I had to pay for the Right switch from digitech cause I ordered the wrong switch from PMR. Since I was already getting Ass- rammed on the entire project ( paid 230 for cc) I just took it like a man got itover with. I don't think I would order another one.