I noticed in the am when i start up the V the oil in the window was very foamy and a milky color after it got hot it cleared up got 100 miles on it so i dumped the stock oil and filter put in spectro dino oil . Started up this am Thurs. no foam it looked good. Had some small filings and specks about what i get on any new bike. I will later use amsoil 20/50.

I asked my dealer about a white film on my sight glass and not being able to see the oil level. He told me that it was because the oil in it was "Kawasaki break in oil" and that it wouldn't be there after I changed the oil. I changed my oil at 500 miles for my first oil change. I'm now less than 100 miles from having 5,000 miles on my bike and have changed the oil ever 1,000 miles and let it go to 2,000 miles once.

Usually foamy oil is a sign it has water in it. At least what I have always understood to mean.

I've got just over 4000 kms on the bike now, and I know the oil was changed at 500 and 1000 kms, I am planning to do it again at 5000. There was some white film in the oil window when it was cold and wet and all I was doing was a ten minute ride to work and back, but the first time I did a proper 30 minute ride it disappeared and has not returned. I'd be interested to hear more about this break in oil idea.

wingnuut: 20W50? Why not use 10W40 as recommended?

My new Versys had too much oil in it, which can cause foaming, so I removed about 1/2 liter to bring it down to the 'Full' mark before breaking it in... Some condensation can cause oil to be milky and be seen on the view window. A ride long enough at normal operating temperature should clear it.

My dealer told me there is an inner and outer window and that sometimes condensation appears between these windows and it was normal. Is this B.S.?

I still get the foamy oil after my first oil change - is this a problem? The oil level appears correct. They used Belray EXL 10W40 oil.

It sounds like a little condensation. If it is just like that during short rides then I would consider it normal. Small amounts of condensation (water) will burn out of your oil once the bike gets warm. You should ride your bike long enough to get it properly warmed up to keep it from becoming a problem.

Just wondering anyone go to a full syn. oil after break in. Have there been any problems (clutch slip ect.) Thanks

I've been running synthetic oil and at first start-up it appears to be a bit milky but will quickly warm up to normal. You can see the oil flowing if you look close. I don't think this is a problem. The sight-glass to the oil is dual-pane so you may see condensation in between the panes (and I have) but it is unlikely internal to the engine.

T

I've been told synthetic is good as long as it doesn't carry an energy conserving label.
Energy conserving indicates the presence of friction modifiers that can allegedly damage your clutch.

http://www.dansmc.com/starburst2.jpg

For those that get the milky film, do you mostly take short trips? Also, is the bike stored in a garage or outdoors?

It's probably condensation and nothing to worry about. A longer trip where the oil is up to operating temp (oil takes longer to warm than does coolant) for 20 minutes or more. Do that and see if it isn't better the next time you go for a ride.

I found "condensation" on the oil viewing window after short trips here in NJ, where it's been fairly cold. On longer trips, no condensation. I'd be concerned about "milky" oil being the result of condensation moisture buildup in the oil. I'd change oil and filter, then make sure I went on a good (at 4-6K rpm, or more) 30 minute ride at least once a week to burn off any condensation that might be accumulating in the oil.

** error**

I've been told synthetic is good as long as it doesn't carry an energy conserving label.
Energy conserving indicates the presence of friction modifiers that can allegedly damage your clutch.


Only engine oils of up to W-30 viscosity can be energy conserving rated. Friction modifiers which are not wet clutch compatible are still found in some automotive W-40 and higher viscosity oils. Motorcycle specific oils are JASO MA certified for high friction applications, as recommended by Kawasaki.
From Castrol; "Note: The low friction characteristics of Castrol Edge 0W-40 (http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_australia/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/e/EDGE0W40_B1971_05.pdf) make it unsuitable for most motorcycles that incorporate wet clutches in combined engine and transmission systems. Castrol’s prime recommendation for this application is Castrol R4 Superbike."

I use Amsoil synthetic AFF 0W-40. You can get any Amsoil product from http://www.woodsbrosracing.com/amsoil-online-store.htm at over 20% off with promo code.

There's also Shell's excellent Rotella T6 synthetic 5W-40 that's available for less than motorcycle oil, as it's not JASO MA labeled, but still passes the tests. According to Richard Moore, Staff Engineer at Shell Global Solutions (US) Inc., Westhollow Technology Center, Houston, TX (800-231-6950):
"We recently ran the JASO MA friction test on Rotella T with Triple Protection 15W-40, Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 (CI-4, discontinued) and our Rotella T6 Synthetic 5W-40 CJ-4. All three oils passed the wet clutch friction test. Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 (CI-4) has more than 1.2% ash (JASO MA spec limit) so it can not be classified as JASO MA. However, Rotella T with Triple Protection 15W-40 and our Rotella T6 Synthetic 5W-40 CJ-4 do meet JASO MA."

"Usually foamy oil is a sign it has water in it. At least what I have always understood to mean. "

Exactly. Your dealer telling you its special break in oil is just dumb. My brand new V never had and foamy oil.

Foamy Oil means the oil has water or air bubbles in it. Both these elements can cause engine damage. Low operating temperature can also cause foaming of Lube oil. Best to change you Lube oil and you can pick one of the oil recommended by Invader.

To my knowledge there is no "Break In Oil" in the market.
Hope this is of some help.

:cheers: