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chain clean with Seafoam?

9K views 42 replies 20 participants last post by  kohburn 
#1 ·
I do not want to use WD40, but I have a can of Seafoam. Is that effective and is it safe to use for the chain?
 
#2 ·
#5 ·
Any solvent especially OR chain lube should say made for x and o ring chains to not take ANY chances. Chains, sprockets, and labor/your time is expensive.

Chain cleaning and lube is a fast fine art of motorcycling: it's your main constant maintenance. Don't screw it up experimenting blindly by asking web opinions. You better have verifiable proof on every can!

Of course if you are a Chemical Engineer in the petroleum industry, never mind :D
 
#6 ·
use Kerosene (also known as Parafin) on a rag and wipe the chain.
Then use what ever chain lube to protect and lube your chain.

I have a chain oiler and never have to clean the chain - but I do prefer to clean it once in a while and use kerosene. Does not take much on a rag and chain comes up nice and clean.

I also use WD-40 as a cleaner and degreaser all over the bike except the brakes :)
Removed stubborn road tar quickly.
 
#9 ·
Someone here got 50k miles on a chain using wd40 in a chain oiler said it got real loud near the end (like the rubber rings were gone) and that's the main reason they finally replaced it.

I bet wd40 does not say safe for x and o ring chains on it :surprise: ymmv
 
#15 ·
seafoam goes in the gas tank not the chain, WD-40 is great for the cleaning and lubeing of the chain, if you dont wanna use it to lube it it still can be used for cleaning, spray the chain down lightly then wipe off, thats what i do on all of mine ,
 
#26 ·
It's the main ingredient in cleaners sold specifically for cleaning the chain.

There's a test on the internet that shows it is the least harmless to the rubber chain link seals. WD-40 is a little harder on them, but with chains lasting 50k miles on it, even that can't be too hard on them.

Personally, I rarely ride off road and I've not found a good reason to clean the chain. I was cleaning it with a kerosene based product, but it seemed pointless.

Now, if I ride in rain, I'll hit it with WD-40 before the next ride then put Lucas on it after that. My reasoning is the WD-40 should fling off any crap and the Lucas is supposed to be more of a penetrating lubricant. Probably marketing BS, but I bit on it.

I have 10k miles on the chain now and I don't see any issues with it.
 
#25 ·
For a minute there I thought I was on the UK forum, things going viral, locked posts-------glad to see humor has returned.
Many solvents made, some extremely simple, kerosene is by far the best for tar, how I know is one of my vans was sprayed with a tar compound, got on everything,--------- like what was discussed in previous posts, usually can buy a liter size at most hardware stores in the paint section.

I use my DuPont multipurpose lube or DuPont chain saver, cost is the same as WD40, I use it because it doesn't fling off, used it for years, my chain is just getting broke in at 30,000KM.Plus I can buy it at my local Lowes store. Not going to get started on lubes, I can say if you have a sleeve bearing electric motor and want a exceptional lube Rislone engine treatment, use it on all electric motors with sleeve bearings or oil lite bearings .

I guess the key here is regular maintenance and don't over tighten the chain.
 
#28 ·
and to add the other half of the answer ... what eats chains...???

because a misalignment of sprockets and chain creates heat in the chain and sprockets. they can get damn hot and this will kill o/x rings and fling all your lube off and out of the chains rollers!
 
#38 ·
Never and I mean NEVER talk about tires, chain lube, politics or religion. You can't win only make enemies or have people think you're Bat Sh!t Crazy.


The Trunk Monkey told me so.


Now where did I put my Tin Foil hat?

 
#39 ·
Never and I mean NEVER talk about tires, chain lube, politics or religion. You can't win only make enemies or have people think you're Bat Sh!t Crazy.
Unfortunately, expertise is a little more than typing it is so, and making up new forum id's for backup verification. Proper English and punctuation is not an end-all proof, but it is a clue: as is being so sure without proper links for evidence (other than ad's which don't mean anything.)

ANY lubricant has to be verified that it will not eat the rubber up in your chains or engine: and rubbers, nylons, etc... change whenever it's cheaper to do so. Otherwise, you need several engineering degrees in the right combination to verify it which few have.

Lubricants can also change ingredients, but most likely, they would be more of a concern if they DO NOT change ingredients to keep up with manufacturers recommendations. It is WAY more complicated than cutting and copying a sentence off WIKI to look smart, even though the copier can't recall or correctly spell any words they pasted.

So YES, I require verification of my use for EVERY lubricant or oil I get. If you want to base your multi-thousand dollar investment and your safety on the road based on a multiple-id poster that won't even show his bike, good luck with that. You won't even be able to find the ghost, much less get a warranty for listening to nonsense.

The people making the boldest claims should show their education levels or at least their bike! And if their highest level is ADVrider University, post that... and I'll run in the other direction! >:)

Experience is great and that is what this site has a wealth of, but things that matter most like oils and lubes is something that changes constantly with industry methods and what is the cheapest. Your decision is your own, as is your liability. If we have an 'authentic' petroleum engineer, please chime in: if you can take the derivative of and integrate (3/2 X ^3).

Also, if you ever want motorcycle expertise, go to the busiest motorcycle shop in your county (not a dealer), and they will most likely give you expert guidance you can warranty.
 
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