DIY - Oil Change/Oil Filter - Kawasaki Versys Forum
Technical Discussion Topics related to Technical Issues

View Poll Results: What oil filter do you use?
Purolator Pureone or Purolator ML 44 17.46%
FRAM 17 6.75%
WIX 12 4.76%
Bosch 16 6.35%
Smart Tech 2 0.79%
Super Tech 35 13.89%
Mobil 1 17 6.75%
K&N 47 18.65%
OEM 54 21.43%
Something else 27 10.71%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 252. You may not vote on this poll

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post #1 of 297 (permalink) Old 07-20-2008, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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Arrow DIY - Oil Change/Oil Filter

I just did my first oil change and I took a few pics to document the process. It's super easy on the Versys, so even newbies should feel confident about chaning their own oil.

It's almost too easy to bother documenting, but it may help somebody...

What you need - fuzzy pic


  • One 17mm Metric Socket
  • Oil filter wrench (take a new filter to the auto parts store and test fit if you don't have a collection)
  • New drain plug crush washer
  • New Oil Filter
  • 2 Quarts of Oil (actually, mine took 2.35 quarts after draining the whole MotoGP race)
  • Torque wrench (or calibrated wrench skills)
  • Oil-catch basin
  • Funnel

Step 1 - Prep

Warm the oil so it flows easier.

Step 2 - Drain



Place the Oil-catch basin under the drain plug and use the 17mm socket to remove the drain plug and let the oil drain.

Step 3 - Filter Removal



Move the catch basin so it is under the drain plug AND the Oil filter base. Use the Oil filter wrench to loosen the oil filter. TIP: To keep oil off the exaust head pipe, place some aluminum foil over it and shape it to "guide" the oil into the catch basin.

Step 4 - Botton Her Up



When your tired of watching oil drip out, it's time to button her up. Set your torque-wrench to 22 foot-pounds, place a new crush washer on your drain plug (hope it didn't fall in the hot oil) and install.

For the Oil filter, coat the O-ring with oil and install to 13 foot-pounds or "tight" if you're like me and have never used a torque-wrench on an Oil filter. TIP: fill the Oil filter with some oil to prevent a dry start.

Step 5 - Oil Fill



Because of the awkward angle of the Versys Oil fill oriface, place the bike back on the side stand (if not already there). Place your funnel in the hole and pour in the fresh oil. When you're done, place the filler cap back on.

Step 6 - Etc
  • Stand the bike up and check the oil, add if necessary
  • Start the engine and check for any leaks (and address)
  • Document the oil change date and mileage
  • Clean up and properly dispose of your oil

Here is what came out of my engine...



Step 7 - Enjoy a well earned beer

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Don
"ride more, worry less"
2005 Suzuki GSXR1000 (slightly bent) - Track
2000 Honda VFR800 - Street
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post #2 of 297 (permalink) Old 08-04-2008, 09:56 PM
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What mileage did you do this at? Just wondering, as there is a ton of metal in that oil. I just picked my bike up today and put 100 miles on it, gonna change the oil soon.

With that in mind, does the Versys require a moto-specific oil with friction modifiers? Or can I run basic automotive oil? I really want to get synthetic in it, as I don't have a vehicle without it, but I'm gonna give it a few thousand before I go that route.

Thanks,
B-
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post #3 of 297 (permalink) Old 08-05-2008, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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I changed my oil at 595 miles. I'd expect that much metal during break-in. I used motorcycle oil, specifically JASO MA rated (during the warranty period). You can use automotive oil, just make sure the API Donut symbol on the back DOES NOT say Energy Conserving. Pick your favorite brand of 10W40 and have at it. Mine took more than 2 quarts so buy 3 just in case.

Don
"ride more, worry less"
2005 Suzuki GSXR1000 (slightly bent) - Track
2000 Honda VFR800 - Street
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post #4 of 297 (permalink) Old 08-05-2008, 12:29 PM
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Nice write-up. The only tip I would add: If you are changing the oil on the kick stand, tilt the bike straight up or even to the non-kick stand side just a bit to help drain out the last bit of oil.

Corey
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post #5 of 297 (permalink) Old 08-06-2008, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heehaw View Post
one correction - step 7 is actually step 1 ;-)
Perhaps it should be step b; as in 1b, 2b, 3b, 4b, 5b and 6b?

Don
"ride more, worry less"
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post #6 of 297 (permalink) Old 08-09-2008, 09:03 AM
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Yes and yes! I did oil changes on my bikes for years without a torque wrench-but now I have one, I do 90% of wrenching with one.

You can use it for changing wheels, tightening the chain, loads of applications on the V.

If you get a torque wrench get a service manual. Think there is a down load on this site-if not PM me.

If you are in the US, try www.harborfreight.com they have a variety of torque wrenches. Then of course you'll need some big sockets 27mm/24mm for the rear wheel and some large hex/allen wrenches for the front.

Money well spent, but anything to do with bikes is right?

Machog
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post #7 of 297 (permalink) Old 08-12-2008, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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No services are required at 10,000 miles. If you are nearing the one or two year in-service mark (depending on your country) you may want to check the owners manual for recommended yearly checks/adjustments.

Don
"ride more, worry less"
2005 Suzuki GSXR1000 (slightly bent) - Track
2000 Honda VFR800 - Street
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post #8 of 297 (permalink) Old 08-14-2008, 11:53 AM
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thanks for the post. i am not a very hands on type of guy and i am clueless on most of this, part of this is just because i had never tryed any of it before.. I am going to try my next oil change on my own... this should help alot... but i think im missing the parts i need for step 7... i think i may stop and pick up what i need on the way home from work


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post #9 of 297 (permalink) Old 11-22-2008, 05:41 PM
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Thanks for posting this, it really helped me out. I've never done an oil change of any kind, but I wanted to try and your directions were a life saver!

Now the oil is fresh and it will sit under a cover until the spring thaw
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post #10 of 297 (permalink) Old 12-03-2008, 06:51 AM
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lol! viewing from work the only pic that shows is the last beer one.

....so that means to change my oil I can just sit next to my V and enjoy a cold one... oarsome

bookmarked this one as a keeper

08' Diablo Black Kawasaki Verys
98' 3.0L V6 Colt Rodeo D/C (Engine rebuilt, Body lift, Monroe Shocks, 32" Wrangler MTR's, GME GX300)

Work hard, play harder. --Bob
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post #11 of 297 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 11:09 AM
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Mobil says their motorcycle oil IS different
(link at 'oil filter' thread) than automotive.

Good pictorial. I use rubber-covered gloves
if I'm on my way to a date (also helps if the
oil is hot, which helps get more dirty oil out).

Never thought of changing the filter more
often than the oil. What a slick idea!
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post #12 of 297 (permalink) Old 02-20-2009, 09:27 PM
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Probably a dumb question but here goes: where can I buy a drain plug crush washer?
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post #13 of 297 (permalink) Old 02-21-2009, 05:29 AM
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Any parts house should have one to match,
unless you want to make your stealership rich...

Edit: I actually have read dumb questions (not
to mention asking one or two myself) but you
have to work a little harder. The only dumb
question is the one nobody asks, assuming
everyone else knows and may leak by accident.

Last edited by AvaChava; 02-21-2009 at 05:31 AM.
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post #14 of 297 (permalink) Old 02-21-2009, 06:17 AM
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Maybe you could get some here. http://www.magneticdrainplug.com/Mot...lugs/MP01.html

Steve

I bought a motorcycle because my wife said that I couldn't! Now I have two and she still says I can't have another one!
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Sounds like a challenge to me!

Now I have four!
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Last edited by sharrison56; 02-21-2009 at 06:24 AM.
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post #15 of 297 (permalink) Old 02-21-2009, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mutt View Post
Probably a dumb question but here goes: where can I buy a drain plug crush washer?
I've used the same one without any problems for the last 20 oil changes, just because it says crush washer doesn't mean you have to crush it.


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post #16 of 297 (permalink) Old 03-11-2009, 07:47 PM
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I have always used Mobil One Synthetic 15W-50 on my bikes, starting with the third oil change. (first one conventional, second a blend) I have never had any problems with it. Has anyone ever had any problems using auto synthetics on a wet clutch bike? Anything Versys or 650R related?
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post #17 of 297 (permalink) Old 03-11-2009, 09:42 PM
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Hi Potus2012,

I guess it's a ongoing warranty issue using auto oil in our bikes.
Jap bike like their JASO oil rating.
Have so far not heard anything bad about them.
My brother used auto oil for his KLR for long time.
Had a BM so gearbox and engine were separate. Used auto oil for 288,000 km.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/arc.../t-386075.html
Read a discussion on the auto/bike oil debate.

Thanks.
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post #18 of 297 (permalink) Old 03-11-2009, 09:44 PM
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Mobil 1 for bikes

Well, Mobil specifically doesn't recommend using their
automotive oils in bikes, for starters...

What do Mobil 1 Motorcycle Oils offer that Mobil 1 for cars does not?
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post #19 of 297 (permalink) Old 03-12-2009, 07:38 AM
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Using Silkoline Pro 4 Fully synt 15W-50. My V like her red Ribena.

Got some info on JASO oils and JASO approved oil list. Please read pages 2-4.

Thanks.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 4T_EV0412.pdf (240.5 KB, 1885 views)
File Type: pdf 4T_EV_LIST.pdf (46.4 KB, 3714 views)

Last edited by stlee29; 03-12-2009 at 09:10 AM.
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post #20 of 297 (permalink) Old 04-18-2009, 06:09 PM
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Thanks for this. Just did an early oil change at 200 mile. One question. I used Kawasaki Motorcycle Engine 10w-40 oil (about 2.3 quarts) and an OEM Kawasaki filter with new crush washer. I didn't have any tin foil to use as a guide and a little oil got onto the pipes. After letting it run for a minute or so, I'm seeing some smoke. I'm assuming that's just the oil burning off the pipes and will go away shortly, correct? When I tilt the bike up so it is level (not leaning on the kickstand), the oil level is right in the middle of the two marks on the sight glass....That IS where it should be, right?
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