DIY - Oil Change/Oil Filter - Page 3 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
Technical Discussion Topics related to Technical Issues

View Poll Results: What oil filter do you use?
Purolator Pureone or Purolator ML 44 17.46%
FRAM 17 6.75%
WIX 12 4.76%
Bosch 16 6.35%
Smart Tech 2 0.79%
Super Tech 35 13.89%
Mobil 1 17 6.75%
K&N 47 18.65%
OEM 54 21.43%
Something else 27 10.71%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 252. You may not vote on this poll

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post #41 of 297 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoCop View Post
is anyone using Amsoil? hows that Working out? Thinking I am going to go this route on this bike just wondered if anyone else was using the stuff. I can personally testify that the Amsoil Brake fluid is wonderful and I would not go without it.
Many use Amsoil as do I. You can get any Amsoil product for about 22% off US prices from http://www.woodsbrosracing.com/amsoil-online-store.htm with secret promo code if you'd like it. Enter email and state or province for instant quote.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcctx View Post
Just a comment about the auto vs. moto oil~ most auto engines have a gear driven oil pump that exerts the same type of "shear" pressure on the oil as tranny gears. Not sure why it is ok to use the oil in an auto but not a bike. Just does not make sense to my teeny little brain. But, the dealer has no vested interest, does he ;>)
Most auto engine oils have friction modifiers (even some 10W-40 which are not 'Energy Conserving' rated) that may not be compatible with the moto's wet clutch. Auto oil pumps are timing chain or belt driven, and are not subject to vehicle propulsion transmission gears load levels. Moto oils are formulated to handle the wet clutch and integrated tranny.
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post #42 of 297 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
Many use Amsoil as do I. You can get any Amsoil product for about 22% off US prices from http://www.woodsbrosracing.com/amsoil-online-store.htm with secret promo code if you'd like it. Enter email and state or province for instant quote.



Most auto engine oils have friction modifiers (even some 10W-40 which are not 'Energy Conserving' rated) that may not be compatible with the moto's wet clutch. Auto oil pumps are timing chain or belt driven, and are not subject to vehicle propulsion transmission gears load levels. Moto oils are formulated to handle the wet clutch and integrated tranny.
Was NOT referring to the "energy conservation" oils; but, as they say, you're money, you're choice. I like Rotella myself.
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post #43 of 297 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 05:30 PM
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As recommended by Kawasaki in owner's manual, JASO MA: Japanese Automotive Standards Organization- High friction applications (wet clutch).

Shell's new formula Rotella T6 synthetic and Rotella T5 semi-synthetic diesel oils are now available for a reasonable price compared to motorcycle specific oil.
"We recently ran the JASO MA friction test on Rotella T with Triple Protection 15W-40, Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 (CI-4) and our new Rotella T6 Synthetic 5W-40 CJ-4. All three oils passed the wet clutch friction test. Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 CI-4 (now discontinued) has more than 1.2% ash (JASO MA spec limit) so it can not be classified as JASO MA. However, Rotella T with Triple Protection 15W-40 and our new Rotella T6 Synthetic 5W-40 CJ-4 do meet JASO MA."
Richard Moore
Staff Engineer
Shell Global Solutions (US) Inc.
Westhollow Technology Center, PO Box 4327, Houston, TX 77210, USA, 800-231-6950.


Shell's new RotellaT6 Synthetic 5W-40 CJ-4 delivers 34% better wear performance on average compared to previous Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 CI-4... Rotella T5 Synthetic Blend 10W-40 CJ-4 would be a good choice too.

Total base number is 10.6 for Shell Rotella T6, and 10 for Rotella T5, so the oil would be pretty durable and protective during normal and extended oil drains. Pretty good compared to Amsoil 0W-40 AFF's 10.5 like I use, and Amsoil 10W-40 MCF's 11.1.

Shell synthetic Rotella T6 specs

Shell synthetic blend Rotella T5 specs

Total Base Number (TBN) is a measure of a lubricant's reserve alkalinity. It is measured in milligrams of potassium hydroxide per gram (mg KOH/g).TBN determines how effective the control of acids formed will be during the combustion process. The higher the TBN, the more effective it is in suspending wear-causing contaminants and reducing the corrosive effects of acids over an extended period of time. The associated measurement ASTM D2896 and ASTM D4739-06 generally range from 6-80mg KOH/g in modern lubricants, 7-10mg for general automotive use and 10-15 for Diesel operations.
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post #44 of 297 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jcctx View Post
Was NOT referring to the "energy conservation" oils; but, as they say, you're money, you're choice. I like Rotella myself.
Like I mentioned, most quality auto engine oils have friction modifiers, even some 10W-40 which are not 'Energy Conserving' rated... Oil grades higher than 30W are not energy conserving rated because of their higher viscosity, not because they don't contain friction modifiers.

According to Castrol; "Note: The low friction characteristics of Castrol EDGE Sport 0W-40 make it unsuitable for most motorcycles that incorporate wet clutches in combined engine and transmission systems. Castrol’s prime recommendation for this application is Castrol Power 1 Racing R4."

http://www.castroledge.com.au/downlo...741_200808.pdf

Last edited by invader; 12-10-2009 at 05:44 PM.
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post #45 of 297 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Machog View Post
Oh S%*t, I'm in trouble.

I throw any oil Wally world has on sale (correct viscosity) in my V and do so about every 3000miles.

Its only got 22k miles on it, so it probably too early for trouble, but I might put bike specific oil in next time to redeem myself.

Machog
I guess I'm in trouble too.....got 37,000+ miles on my Nighthawk, still waiting to fry the clutch and grenade the engine from using plain old 10-40 auto oil all these years.....sheesh!
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post #46 of 297 (permalink) Old 12-11-2009, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
Like I mentioned, most quality auto engine oils have friction modifiers, even some 10W-40 which are not 'Energy Conserving' rated... Oil grades higher than 30W are not energy conserving rated because of their higher viscosity, not because they don't contain friction modifiers.

According to Castrol; "Note: The low friction characteristics of Castrol EDGE Sport 0W-40 make it unsuitable for most motorcycles that incorporate wet clutches in combined engine and transmission systems. Castrolís prime recommendation for this application is Castrol Power 1 Racing R4."

http://www.castroledge.com.au/downlo...741_200808.pdf
Like I said, your money, spend it anway you like; I will do likewise
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post #47 of 297 (permalink) Old 12-14-2009, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mcrider View Post
I guess I'm in trouble too.....got 37,000+ miles on my Nighthawk, still waiting to fry the clutch and grenade the engine from using plain old 10-40 auto oil all these years.....sheesh!
Pretty much my story except I have been using whatever 15-40 diesel rated oil is on sale. When I had the Sporty and the Guzzi I used 15-50 Mystic for them.
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post #48 of 297 (permalink) Old 01-20-2010, 10:28 PM
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I don't pay any more for my Amsoil synthetic 0W-40 as I would for Rotella T6, and I don't have to go out and get it...
As noted in post 74 and contrary to auto oil, Shell's Rotella T, Rotella T6 synthetic, as well as Rotella T5 semi-synthetic DO meet JASO MA's wet clutch friction test without exceeding 1.2% ash limit, and have a strong total base number.
What are you running in the V, mcrider?
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post #49 of 297 (permalink) Old 03-28-2010, 11:50 PM
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Just did my second oil change today so thought I would finally look at this thread. I did my first at about 600 miles of hard break in (thats just how I roll). Today the oil was changed at 4000 miles (I know not many total miles, sorry I like riding my ST1300) . The oil pretty much still looked new but oh well.

I do have a question though for all your DIY Versys oil changers. Has anyone else seen the amount of metal in their oil as in the pics in this thread? I have not seen a speck of metal during either change. I have been riding and working on motorcycles (Japanese motorcycles) for a touch over 30 years (worked as a mech for Yamaha, Kawasaki and Suzuki) and I have NEVER seen that much metal in a "healthy" engine. Is this a Versys, ER6N, Ninja 650 thing?

ST1300, Versys, SV650S

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Clean your shields with this stuff!!

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post #50 of 297 (permalink) Old 04-01-2010, 07:11 PM
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Well folks, I finally have my very first street bike. It's a beautiful 2010 Versys that draws the attention of everyone.

Today we reached the 100 mile mark and she had her first dialysis. I wanted to do the 20 mile oil change like it says on the mototune blog, but didnít have all the necessary toys to make it happen. I went for 10w-40 Valvoline conventional motor oil with a Super Tech oil filter. I also went ahead and bought the T6 Rotella full synthetic for the next oil change. Planning on doing it at 600 as per the MOM and stay on full synthetic from then on. I also replaced the OEM plug with a magnetic one.

As for the used oil that I drained out today, it looked very clean and I only found a very very small particle (visible to the naked eye). The color was still somewhat clear-golden and had a bit cloudiness but was still in very good shape.

Finally, I also had a cold one,,, OK I had two...

Vendetta
A friend of mine once said: Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known...
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post #51 of 297 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 07:54 PM
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What About PureONE

If you're thinking you want to install a PureONE oil filter on your bike, please think again. PureONE oil filters are designed for vehicles, not bikes. Because of PureONE's high efficiency, the motorcycle oil pump may not be able to handle the pressure. The Purolator motorcycle filter line is designed to meet the specific needs of a bike; therefore we highly recommend the use of a Purolator ML filter over a PureONE oil filter.

http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/...lefilters.aspx
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post #52 of 297 (permalink) Old 06-19-2010, 06:26 PM
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Thanks for the post! I have been changing the oil on my KLX since I got it, so I was hoping it would be that easy. With this type of oil filter, it's even easier.

The tinfoil tip was great, saved me a bunch of spillage when I removed the filter.

I'd also like to get a rear paddock stand to make the changes even easier. I had to rock the bike around to get all of the excess oil out. It's also fun trying to read the sight glass while holding the bike level.

I went ahead and removed the plastic side cover since it was easy to do. It's a good thing, too- my oil filter wrench was a little bit too big. Grabbed a silicone pot holder out of the kitchen to use as a shim. I wouldn't have had the clearance I needed for the big wrench- I'll have to pick up a smaller one.

Last edited by onewizard; 12-05-2016 at 07:35 PM.
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post #53 of 297 (permalink) Old 06-21-2010, 01:34 PM
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Quick question for some you experts out there...
I just did my first oil change at 400 miles with 10W-40 following a fun Saturday doing the Motoman break-in.
I have an unopened quart of 10W-50 from a few years ago and another bike. Instead of throwing it away, I'm wondering if it will harm the V if I mix my next oil change (1qt 10W-40, 1qt 10W50). Has anyone ever mixed 10W-40 and 10W-50 oil? Am I asking for trouble?

Thanks,
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post #54 of 297 (permalink) Old 06-21-2010, 01:53 PM
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Wont harm a thing I mix 5w40 with 15w40 all the time and have even mixed 10w40 with 20w50, just make sure your current riding temps allow for a slightly higher viscosity.
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post #55 of 297 (permalink) Old 06-21-2010, 01:54 PM
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is the oil level to be sight checked when the engine is cold, hot? will they read differently depending upon the temperature?

Doesn't matter, just be sure if checking it hot you allow enough time for the oil to drain back down into the oil pan.
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post #56 of 297 (permalink) Old 06-23-2010, 12:16 PM
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what does the crush washer look like and where is it? all i saw when i changed my oil was a steel washer under the drain plug bolt.
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post #57 of 297 (permalink) Old 06-23-2010, 01:26 PM
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Ummmm THAT would be the crush washer and it isn't steel, it is aluminum.

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post #58 of 297 (permalink) Old 06-25-2010, 09:58 PM
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After reading all of the posts in this thread, I changed my oil for the first time today @294 miles. I appreciate all of the advice, hints, and discussions here. I had previously read a pretty technical article on oils @ <http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html> and already been convinced not to wait 'til 600 miles to do that first oil change. I was just concerned that the T6 Rotella I purchased at Walmart might be "energy conserving", but posts here convinced me otherwise.
What a simple procedure. The Versys oil change is a snap, compared to the change on my KTM, where the frame tube holds much of the oil. Thanks everyone.
ps. The calsci.com website also has advice on motorcycle break-in and also sells windscreens made specifically for the Versys.
And, no, I don't have any connections to calsci.
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post #59 of 297 (permalink) Old 07-05-2010, 11:12 PM
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Question about the crush washer and oil filter wrench.

Crush washer, I understand that you don't have to "crush" it, and that you can get one from the dealer, but my dealer is 35+ miles away. I'm assuming this size should be at wal-mart/k-mart/advance auto parts/autozone?

Oil filter wrench, everywhere I go/see they have wrenches but all too large. Is this another dealer item, or could I get it somewhere else? Also, am I just being silly/noob and don't know of something else? Thanks.
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post #60 of 297 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 12:06 AM
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I've been using the same crush washer for nearly 30k miles and 6-7 oil changes and you are right you don't have to crush it. The correct torque spec, its 22ftlbs.

Regarding an oil wrench, Walmart sells a great one made exactly for the Versys for a few $$'s, along with a great filter at a good price.

Either of these will do; WalMart SuperTech ST6607 2.5"
WalMart SuperTech ST7317 3.25"

Machog


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