DIY - Oil Change/Oil Filter - Page 2 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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View Poll Results: What oil filter do you use?
Purolator Pureone or Purolator ML 44 17.67%
FRAM 17 6.83%
WIX 12 4.82%
Bosch 16 6.43%
Smart Tech 2 0.80%
Super Tech 35 14.06%
Mobil 1 16 6.43%
K&N 45 18.07%
OEM 53 21.29%
Something else 27 10.84%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 249. You may not vote on this poll

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post #21 of 297 (permalink) Old 04-18-2009, 07:08 PM
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post #22 of 297 (permalink) Old 04-18-2009, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hacktracker View Post
I just did my first oil change and I took a few pics to document the process. It's super easy on the Versys, so even newbies should feel confident about chaning their own oil.

It's almost too easy to bother documenting, but it may help somebody...
Thanks Don !! Just picked up a new filter at the dealer I just went over the 300 mile mark
today! I had a blast So. Cal in the Mellow boo mts. Old Tapanga cannon road to Mulhulland to the Rock Store for breakers then the ride through the twisties down to PCH
and home to San Pedro (Smell A Harbor). But I love it here.
Just a question do you here any clicking sounds coming from your V.?
I went to the dealer and they said not to worry
it was a normal sound. Thanks for the info for the oil change,
Top Cat

Last edited by onewizard; 12-05-2016 at 07:05 PM.
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post #23 of 297 (permalink) Old 04-26-2009, 08:11 AM
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HackTracker,

Great job documenting this!! Was definitely useful to me yesterday...

It was very difficult for me to get the old oil filter out yesterday, even though I used the oil filter wrench. Called Cycle Gear here off Tryon Road, Raleigh and the guy was just closed for the day. However, he offered a tip that I'd like to share.

The tip is - Drive a screwdriver through the oil filter from about an inch from the outer end and wrench it out. You'll damage the old one....so use this idea only if you're replacing it. Fair Warning - Be prepared for the mess as you have a good amount of oil that'll come out! Hope it is useful to someone else in a pinch.

Cheers
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post #24 of 297 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 08:57 AM
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Great tips/documentation everybody! I appreciate this forum more than I ever thought I would.

Quick question- someone had posted a magnetic drain plug- is this to pick up the bits/pieces of metal running through the oil? I haven't changed my oil yet, so is the Versys drainplug magnetic? Last one- a) INYO, do I need to buy a new crush washer for each oil change? Going to change it sometime this week, I'll post photos.

+ How "dangerous" is it to hand tighten my oil filter, opposed to utilizing a torque wrench?
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post #25 of 297 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 12:57 PM
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Getting all torqued

Torque could be misleading if you don't oil the
gasket. Otherwise most filter manufacturers
specify an approximate amount of hand tightening
beyond contact. Too loose and you could blow
a seal and lose your engine. Most of us seldom
if ever change the drain plug gasket unless it's
deformed or leaking.

The service manual sez:

Quote:
Torque - Oil Filter: 17.5 N·m (1.8 kgf·m, 13 ft·lb)
NOTE
○Hand tightening of the oil filter can not be allowed since
it does not reach to this tightening torque.
I guess the Japanese have weak wrists.
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post #26 of 297 (permalink) Old 05-15-2009, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by potus2012 View Post
I have always used Mobil One Synthetic 15W-50 on my bikes, starting with the third oil change. (first one conventional, second a blend) I have never had any problems with it. Has anyone ever had any problems using auto synthetics on a wet clutch bike? Anything Versys or 650R related?
I have been using synthetic (Mobil-1) on my 1300 Honda VTX since mile 600 - it now has 34,000 miles on it. No issues with wet clutch or otherwise.
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post #27 of 297 (permalink) Old 05-17-2009, 07:26 PM
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I use Wallyworld, have done for 4-5 changes. Only difference is the length, I use the longer ones-longer is better right??
WalMart SuperTech ST6607 2.5"
WalMart SuperTech ST7317 3.25"

Machog


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post #28 of 297 (permalink) Old 05-17-2009, 08:45 PM
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I'm pretty sure the super-tech numbers you listed are the same I used on the FZ-1. If that's the case then filters from the Fz1 should fit the Versys. Correct?

If so, taken from the FZ-1 site:
Purolator Pure One PL14610
Mobil 1 M1-110
Bosch 3323
WalMart SuperTech ST7317

These should fit and save you a couple from the dealership. I always used the super-tech filters. Never had a problem.
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post #29 of 297 (permalink) Old 05-18-2009, 08:55 AM
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Don't know if this will works on our Versys.
Read this in a Harley magazine.
An interesting concept though and Not trying to confuse anyone.
http://www.roguechopper.com/about.htm
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post #30 of 297 (permalink) Old 05-18-2009, 09:29 AM
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My First Versys Oil Change

I changed the oil in my versys for the first time. I am not a newbie at this, I do all my oil changes on my cars and motorcycles.

It was no big deal. I bought my '08 used with 800 miles on it. The previous owner had the dealer do the 600 mile maintenance and oil change - He gave me the receipt for proof.

I decided to change over to Mobil1 10-40 motorcycle specific synthetic. This oil change was done at 1700 miles. I did notice some small bits of metal in the oil - this is expect since the oil is double duty with the engine and trans.

************************************************** **********************************************
The aluminum foil on the header pipe is a MUST - thanks for that tip. Once I removed the oil plug, I stood on the bike and moved it back and forth several times to make sure I got as much oil out as possible.
************************************************** ************************************************** *


I replaced the filter - so I ended up putting approx 2.4 quarts back in.

With the synthetic, it seems a little easier to shift. I have been using mobil-1 in my VTX1300 for over 33000 miles with no issues. I expect the same results here.

This is a very easy task - any newbie can do it.

Last edited by onewizard; 12-05-2016 at 07:19 PM.
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post #31 of 297 (permalink) Old 05-18-2009, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneRanger View Post
I replaced the filter - so I ended up putting approx 2.4 quarts back in.
Interesting......my V only takes 2 quarts to refill including a filter change, just like the stamp in the engine case beside the sight glass says. How long did you let the engine drain???
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post #32 of 297 (permalink) Old 05-18-2009, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MN_Smurf View Post
Interesting......my V only takes 2 quarts to refill including a filter change, just like the stamp in the engine case beside the sight glass says. How long did you let the engine drain???
My stamp says 2.4 LITERS dry. 2 LITERS with filter. I let it drain a good 15 mintues and I had just returned from my 20 mile work commute - so the oil was good and hot. Also tilted it 5 or 6 times back and forth. I did the tilting with the filter off - I had good draining from both the plug hole and the filter recepticle when I did ths. When I check the oil now - it is almost on the high mark on the window..

I put in about (a little less than) 2.4 QUARTS which is about 2.27 liters.
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post #33 of 297 (permalink) Old 05-18-2009, 11:42 AM
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600 mile service done at home

After getting quotes from a couple of dealers ($240 & $270), I decided to do the service myself. It took more oil then I expected a little over 2 1/2 quarts. I used:
  • Shell Rotella T 5W40 Syn oil
  • Bosch 3300 Premium Oil Filter

Cleaned the chain with kerosene using a Grunge brush followed by lubing with DuPont™ Teflon™ Multi-Use Lubricant.

The chain has play of ~1.6" (Kawa spec. is 1-1.4") so I'll tighten it a little below the max spec.

Inspections are next but the Versys is running great.

  • Black Firstgear Mesh-Tex 2.0 Pants + Y/B Fieldsheer Air Tour Mesh Jacket + N/S Deluxe All Season Cover X-Large + Evolution 4 Disc Lock

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post #34 of 297 (permalink) Old 05-18-2009, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Machog View Post
I've done about 6 oil changes now all with filter.

I never put more than 2 quarts in and it brings it up to about mid-line on the site gauge. I do the same slow drain as you, hot engine, filter off, rock from side to side etc.

If oil completely fills the site gauge when vertical, you may want to suck out a small amount. If it were me, I certainly would. If its on or below the top line, you should be OK.

Machog
I've done so many changes on my VTX it is no problem putting back the exact amount - plus it has a handy dandy little dipstick. This was my first with the Versys / oil window. I should have put in the 2 quarts, then run the engine for a minute or two, THEN Checked the window. And added any more IF NECESSARY.

I will use my boat oil pump and remove a little of the excess. Thanks for the help!
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post #35 of 297 (permalink) Old 05-18-2009, 07:46 PM
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At my last oil change I put on a Purolator Pure One oil filter (PL14610). It's longer than the Kawasaki brand oil filter and is suppose to be 99.9% efficient. It cost around $8.00 at Advanced Auto Parts. This will be the oil filter I run from now on. I also switched to Mobil 1 synthetic oil and my bike shifts so much better that it's like a different machine.
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post #36 of 297 (permalink) Old 05-19-2009, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sir_crackien View Post
so i hate to ask the same question as before but where do i get the drain plug crush washer?

anyone know the spec on it?

thanks

dan
I buy it from my dealer. Costs about a buck.
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post #37 of 297 (permalink) Old 05-19-2009, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimstandinghorse View Post
At my last oil change I put on a Purolator Pure One oil filter (PL14610). It's longer than the Kawasaki brand oil filter and is suppose to be 99.9% efficient. It cost around $8.00 at Advanced Auto Parts. This will be the oil filter I run from now on. I also switched to Mobil 1 synthetic oil and my bike shifts so much better that it's like a different machine.
Same is true for my Honda VTX1300 - shifts smoother with Mobil-1. It shifts t he smoothest with AMSOIL - but I can't make myself pay an extra $5 per quart for that stuff. So I stick with Mobil-1 for Motorcycles. I found it at Walmart for $6+ per quart (10W-40).
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post #38 of 297 (permalink) Old 05-19-2009, 10:14 PM
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Anyone else use the regular Rotella?

I saw one post that had the syn rotella. Anyone have feedback on the synthetic vs the standard 15w-40 rotella?
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post #39 of 297 (permalink) Old 06-01-2009, 10:46 PM
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Ok, I just did my oil change. ~4800 miles, last change was at 650, but that was 1 month ago! Anyway, I took 2L out. Put 2.4L of Golden Spectro 20W-50 semi-synthetic in; not Quarts, Liters! This was with the Purolator Pure One oil filter (PL14610). I followed the exact directions above. Filled it to between the lines with 2L, started it & sight glass fills completely when running. Stopped it and the oil was not visible in the sight glass after 30 seconds. Put 0.2L in and it was back between the sight lines. Started again, same effect. Put another 0.2L in and this time when stopped it stayed between the lines. Have I over filled? This was all done on the paddock stand.

Steve

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post #40 of 297 (permalink) Old 06-02-2009, 05:06 PM
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Try checking the oil on a level surface, not on the paddock stand with your engine warmed up-but off, holding bike vertical-much easier with two obviously.

If oil is between two lines you are perfect, if site glass is completely filled up you have a bit too much. If it were me, I would syphon some out until is was between the two lines.

Had this discussion before, I only get 2 liters in mine and that's with the bigger oil filter. I do it as described above and never had to top up. But some on the forum put .2l or so additional in.

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