DIY - Oil Change/Oil Filter - Page 14 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
Technical Discussion Topics related to Technical Issues

View Poll Results: What oil filter do you use?
Purolator Pureone or Purolator ML 44 17.39%
FRAM 18 7.11%
WIX 12 4.74%
Bosch 16 6.32%
Smart Tech 2 0.79%
Super Tech 35 13.83%
Mobil 1 17 6.72%
K&N 47 18.58%
OEM 54 21.34%
Something else 27 10.67%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 253. You may not vote on this poll

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post #261 of 297 (permalink) Old 05-08-2016, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by IAMRA View Post
+1. I noticed a smoother start-up idle when I switched to this filter at 1000 miles..
Probably worth 5 hp, too.
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post #262 of 297 (permalink) Old 05-08-2016, 09:32 PM
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+1. I noticed a smoother start-up idle when I switched to this filter at 1000 miles..

It comes with 2 O-Rings. I finally replaced the original one last summer. It was still good to use but after 5 years i figured what the heck..

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post #263 of 297 (permalink) Old 05-08-2016, 10:03 PM
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Probably worth 5 hp, too.
I realize now how ridiculous my statement may have sounded. I had a headlight rattle, documented below, that was most pronounced at cold start-up, just below 2000 rpm.
2015 front cowling/headlight rattle fix
At 1000 miles, I drained the oil, and passed it through a coffee filter. I installed the PCS1 and replaced the same oil. What I noticed was that my headlight no longer rattled at cold start-up. I would hear it later while coming to a stop, But no more rattle at cold idle. I can't say I noticed the extra 5 hp
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post #264 of 297 (permalink) Old 05-09-2016, 08:13 PM
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Hi Guys, Sorry to bump this one time, but I am worried about the slightly different tops to the Bosch filters. If nobody remembers about this I will just get something else. THANKS
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjcintucson View Post
I am glad somebody resurrected this old thread. I bought a HiFlow for my first oil change (bought it with 10k miles on it). The filter I removed was a Bosch 3323 so I bought another one the next time I was at O'Reilly's. BUT, I thought I remembered reading that the new Bosch filters had a level or slightly convex surface where the hole and threaded spot is located, whereas the old filters used to have a slightly concave surface. I kept the old one and compared to the new one and that indeed seems to be the case. So, the question is: Does somebody else remember this change by Bosch (didn't find it in this thread) and does the changed level of that surface make any difference with regard to using the new 3323? I kept the receipt in case I need to take it back and get something else for my next change which will probably be in a month or so.

Forty years away from 2 wheel fun. Sure is great to be back smelling the roses!!!
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post #265 of 297 (permalink) Old 06-13-2016, 12:38 PM
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Oil filters?

I follow the instructions that are printed on the filter itself, which generally says to oil the gasket, then tighten UNTIL it contacts, and a further 3/4 turn....
The 2016 Versys service manual says not to hand tighten but rather to use a torque wrench since hand tightening would not reach the suggested 12.9 ftlbs. Just sayin...
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post #266 of 297 (permalink) Old 06-13-2016, 05:24 PM
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Hand Tighten

Quote:
Originally Posted by redtail View Post
The 2016 Versys service manual says not to hand tighten but rather to use a torque wrench since hand tightening would not reach the suggested 12.9 ftlbs. Just sayin...
I have never used a torque wrench on any oil filter on any vehicle.
That's a recipe for stripping the aluminum threads in the engine block.
I hand tighten the oil filter. Then replacing the oil drain plug I add the correct amount of oil, then replace the oil filling plug and then start up the engine and let it run until warm. I look for any oil leaks during this time. I then shut off the engine and check again for correct oil level and any leaks. If there are leaks I simply hand tighten the oil filter further.
DONE!

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post #267 of 297 (permalink) Old 06-13-2016, 05:30 PM
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I on the other hand always use my torque wrench on the oil plug of all my bikes. I've been changing oil in bikes for over 40 years and have yet to strip a plug. The Versys did throw me as it is the first bike that had a torque spec for the filter. BUT it's not a high setting and I was told by the dealer that they had had problems with the 650 Ninja leaking unless it was torqued. So I set the wrench and torque it to spec...no striped filters and no leaks.

Or was that look THEN leap?
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post #268 of 297 (permalink) Old 07-16-2016, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by cjcintucson View Post
Hi Guys, Sorry to bump this one time, but I am worried about the slightly different tops to the Bosch filters. If nobody remembers about this I will just get something else. THANKS
I tend to hoard parts that I think I will (or might) need. Well, I had accumulated several of the oil filters that were displayed on the "list" in the beginning of this thread. I was organizing today and categorized my stash of filters for our cars/truck/bikes.

In doing so, I ran across post 12 in this thread, which shared that PL14612 now has a shallower base which prevents the oil seal from completely sealing : List of compatible oil filters for 650? .


In the same thread, I ran across post 17 that confirmed fitment of Fram TG7317.

Conclusion to the filters I had on hand for comparison....

Fram 1365 (Gold), Fram 31365 (Silver), and Purolator PL14612 all had a measurably shallower base, when compared to the Fram TG7317. Based on the measurements (oil gasket surface to thread distance), the Fram 1365 (Gold), Fram 31365 (Silver), and Purolator PL14612 are nearly identical. In other words, if the new PL14612 has too shallow of a base...then the others do too.

The difference when comparing these to the TG7317 was about .06 inch (roughly the thickness of a penny). The TG7317's thread base to (uncompressed) seal lip distance was about .25 inch (almost perfect equivelant of 2 quarters, 1 nickel & 1 penny stacked).

The last filter I used was a K&N, so I've not tried any of these above for actual fitment. Based on measurement and feedback, I'm considering taking the Purolator and NAPA filters back for exchange.

Can anyone confirm issues of fitment with the NAPA filters I've listed? I find it hard to believe the PL14612 will no longer fit appropriately, if the NAPAs will.

Last edited by bwwoodard; 07-17-2016 at 12:15 AM.
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post #269 of 297 (permalink) Old 07-17-2016, 06:08 AM
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I have always used the NAPA 1365 gold since NAPA is my only local source. 26k and no problems, good seal no leaks.
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post #270 of 297 (permalink) Old 07-17-2016, 09:36 AM
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Follow up, regarding my post above (#77).

So, I decided to take a look first hand. After some reading at the FJ09 forum, where this was a reported issue, I had envisioned finding a nut-type configuration at the base of the oil filter mounting bolt, where it attaches to the engine: WRONG! It's threaded into the lower engine case on my 2011 650 Versys, creating virtually no protrusion (as compared to the reports of the FJ09 issue, where the oil filter base bottomed out on mounting bolt nut before achieving adequate seal).

This being the case, there should be no issue in using the PL14612, correct? It was my understanding that the PL was a great filter for this application in all other regards, aside from potential interference as mentioned above.

Invader: your thoughts?

I'll try to attach a couple photos I took. One is from front to show there isn't a shoulder nut between the filter base and the engine case. The other is from the side, to show virtual flush mounting (no protrusions beyond engine block, except threads themselves).
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Last edited by bwwoodard; 07-17-2016 at 10:14 AM.
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post #271 of 297 (permalink) Old 07-17-2016, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BEACHBUM View Post
I have always used the NAPA 1365 gold since NAPA is my only local source. 26k and no problems, good seal no leaks.
Thanks for your reply. I think the info that I shared in post #79, above, explains why you've had success with running the NAPA 1365. I, too, just installed one with no issues...
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post #272 of 297 (permalink) Old 07-17-2016, 05:14 PM
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post #273 of 297 (permalink) Old 07-19-2016, 04:58 PM
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[QUOTE=cjcintucson;1138418]I am glad somebody resurrected this old thread. I bought a HiFlow for my first oil change (bought it with 10k miles on it). The filter I removed was a Bosch 3323 so I bought another one the next time I was at O'Reilly's. BUT, I thought I remembered reading that the new Bosch filters had a level or slightly convex surface where the hole and threaded spot is located, whereas the old filters used to have a slightly concave surface. I kept the old one and compared to the new one and that indeed seems to be the case.

So you can see why I jumped in to this thread. I decided to use bwwoodards way of measuring. I took the new filter and started stacking coins until I touched a straightedge across the gasket. The old (used) one took the thickness of a dime more to touch and due to gasket compression probably would take another dime at least to compare the two. So, the new Bosch 3323 does indeed have a different, more shallow, metal inner face. The good news is now that bwwoodard has figured out why some worried about this change (the higher metal face hitting a bolt which we DO NOT have) I can use my filter - see his photos in earlier posts.

Forty years away from 2 wheel fun. Sure is great to be back smelling the roses!!!
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post #274 of 297 (permalink) Old 08-01-2016, 06:32 PM
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Bosch 3323 pics

Sorry ... I do not have a Kawasaki OEM one to compare.
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post #275 of 297 (permalink) Old 08-02-2016, 01:43 PM
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1st Oil Change is in the book

Bike was delivered with 1 mile on July 25, and today I did the first oil change with 607 sMiles.

I used a Purolator PureONE PL14610 that I purchased at Pep Boys online (35% discount online) and Castrol Actevo X-tra 4T 10-40w oil.

I was pleasantly surprised how easy the oil change was. I also torqued the oil filter and drain plug. Probably the first time I have ever torqued these items. Since I had the specifications it was just as easy as hand tightening them, actually easier, because I knew exactly when they were on tight enough.

Now I can rev the engine up to 6K rpm probably around 75 mph.
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post #276 of 297 (permalink) Old 08-02-2016, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
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I have never used a torque wrench on any oil filter on any vehicle.
That's a recipe for stripping the aluminum threads in the engine block.
...
I would suggest that NOT using a torque wrench is..."a recipe for stripping the aluminum threads in the engine block"..., despite your luck, so far...!

Ed
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post #277 of 297 (permalink) Old 08-02-2016, 03:20 PM
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I do the same, have for 20 years. Now, however, I ensure the stabil is the type that has ethanol protection. And I use the ethanol treatment year round.

As far as the oil, I change it prior to winter storage. Best to store with clean oil.
I don't use the ethanol treatment during the riding season because I think I am using and refreshing the gas fast enough for it not to turn to slime on my injectors. Does everybody but me use an ethanol treatment for more than just storage?
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post #278 of 297 (permalink) Old 08-02-2016, 05:33 PM
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I use some gas preservative in the early season when I may not ride for a couple of weeks if the weather turns bad again. But during the warm season I ride enough to never worry about stale gas.
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post #279 of 297 (permalink) Old 08-07-2016, 06:56 AM
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Here's the redesigned Purolator filter. I have issues with this new design on a 2014 Versys 650. Our 2014 Yamaha VStar 1300 doesn't like it, either.


.
.
for comparison - here are a couple of the Pure One filters. New design on the left.
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.

.
.
.
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After some amount or research, I got the NAPA Gold 1356, which is simply a longer 1365. This worked fineon our Yamaha VStar 1300 for a a few oil changes but when I ran out.... the latest batch bottomed out on the oil filter boss before fully engaging the gasket. Haven't tried on our 2014 Versys 650.

Uggggggg.

So.... off to O'Reilly's for a Bosch 33xx.

THAT one still fits just fine.

Note that all of these filters fit just fine on a Honda VTX or GL1800 Gold Wing.

Yamaha seems to be the most sensitive, but we also have had filter sealing issues on this 2014 Kawasaki Versys with the Purolator filters. They seem to match up OK on the Versys , and I can get a good half turn or more, but they seem to bottom too soon. Have had seepage on two of these.

That's all I know
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post #280 of 297 (permalink) Old 08-07-2016, 12:56 PM
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Same Filter for 6 years and 3 bikes now.......PC Racing PCS-1


09 Versys 650

IMG_0122 by weljo2001, on Flickr


07 FJR

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2016 Versys 1000

First Oil Change 600 miles by weljo2001, on Flickr
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