Kawasaki Versys Forum banner

Fuzing / Relay / Power outlet install/2015 & Earlier

29K views 106 replies 36 participants last post by  onewizard 
#1 ·
Pretty much any 20A automotive relay connected to the battery via a 20A fuse and a a cheap terminal block of your choosing will provide the required functionality and provide switched power (cuts off when engine is turned off). Total cost ~$10.


Note all automotive relays have the same pin numberings marked on them.

Pin 30 - connects to pos battery terminal via 20A or less fuse (high current)
Pin 87 - switched distribution power source (high current) - to terminal block
Pin 85 - relay trigger ground (low current)
Pin 86 - relay trigger positive - wire to any switched 12v source like running lights that are only on with engine running (low current)


Suggest using 12 gauge wire for high current wires (it is good for up to 40A) which is more than will ever be needed. Any thin wire wire can be used to trigger the relay. Also solder rather than just twist all connections and wrap with electrical tape. When soldering heat the wires to be soldered until solder touching the wires (and not the soldering iron) melts into the wires. Installing a 20A fuse between battery and relay is a good idea. Twisted wire connections tend to be a source of power loss and possible failure point.
 
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#2 ·
2015 power outlet install

I wrote the following article for another site and thought I would double post here for anyone interested.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Why a relay?

Each pre existing circuit in your bike is fused. If you install a power hungry accessory like heated grips or tank mounted espresso maker it will start blowing fuses if connected to an existing circuit such as the head light circuit and if you up the fuse the original device is no longer protected.

With a high current accessory like heated grips they need to be powered directly from the battery on their own fused circuit. The only issue with a direct battery connection is the connected devices always have power so can run down the battery if left on. A switched power source that is only active when the engine is running is more desirable. This is where a relay comes in. A relay will allow you to take the power draw off the battery where it should be but only be active when the relay is turned on by the ignition.

Several bike accessory sources like Twisted Throttle sell a pre packaged bike accessory relay block for wiring in accessories for about $80. It does the exact same thing as the ~$10 circuit you can build yourself from an automotive relay.


How to build a relay controlled circuit

A relay is basically an electrically operated switch. Buy a generic 4 pin automotive relay. They're cheap and available at most auto parts stores. The switch circuit is very low power, while the switched circuit can handle high current flow. Energize the coil side of the relay from a source that is only on when the engine is running. For example pin 85 to Ground and pin 86 to the tail running light. Power the relay from the POS terminal of the battery (pin 30) via a fuse in an installed inline fuse holder of suitable capacity. You now have a high current power source, that is only energized when the ignition is ON, from pin 87. Optionally you can connect pin 87 to a wiring block to provide more than one connection point if you have multiple accessories.

Note some automotive relays will have five pins with the additional pin labeled 87a. The extra pin functions the same as pin 87 with the exception that it supplies power when the relay is not energized and switches off when the relay is energized, the opposite of pin 87. If you use a relay of this type remember to insulate the unused pin so it does not short out on the frame.


How to make a reliable electrical connection


There are several ways to connect wires together but several of them are problematic and the source of reliability issues. In particular tap connectors that punch through the insulation to tap into a connector are unreliable and should be avoided if possible. The best way to join wires is with solder. Twisting wires together creates another source of potential electrical problems.

To create a good solder joint twist the wires together as a first step. Next heat the twisted wires from the bottom (heat rises) with a hot soldering iron for a minute or two. If you hold the solder against the heating wires (from the top) it should melt into the wires when they get hot enough. Let the solder melt into the hot wires rather than melting the solder directly with the soldering iron. Remember to pre heat the soldering iron for 5 minutes or so before using - they don't heat up instantly.

A clean soldering iron tip will transfer heat much more effectively and just work better. Keep the tip of the soldering iron clean when it is hot, by brushing against a damp sponge or cloth, usually after every solder. Emery paper can be used to sand oxidation off a cold soldering iron tip that has not been used in a while. A clean tip will have a shinny coating of solder. If it is dull it needs cleaning.

A wire stripper like that pictured to the right is cheap (~$5-10) to purchase at a specialty electronics store like The Source and the best choice for removing insulation A dedicated wire stripper makes it easy and quick to remove insulation from wires with a high degree of precision. Knives, razor blades and in particular pliers like wire strippers perform poorly and often cut a portion of the wire as well as the insulation.

An electrical connection can be insulated with either electrical tape or a heat gun and shrink wrap. Do not use duct tape, scotch tape or other kinds of tape as the insulation properties and/or adhesive durability are can often be poor.
 

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#3 ·
I have a question about those fuse blocks they sell from Twistedthrottle (as well as others). It looks like they only have one relay. Wouldn't separate devices require separate relays?

I recently connected my heated grips and had planned on running some driving lights off the same relay. Then I started thinking about how I'd turn them off.

Nice write up, BTW.
Only one relay is needed for all your accessories but I would connect a fuse between pin 87 and each accessory. Most accessories like heated grips come with in line fuses anyway. Optionally you can buy a cheap terminal block to provide extra connection points to pin 87 of the relay or just connect the wires together at pin 87. Suggest 12guage wire.
 
#4 ·
From the responses here I am not sure everyone understands the purpose of a relay in this context. It exists to supply a common switched source of high current that is ONLY active while the engine is running or the key is ON - depending what you activate the relay from. Kinda like the main switch on the fuse panel of your house that shuts the power on/off to all of your house. Relays are not normally used for individual control of items on a motorcycle, except for the starter motor.

The switched power source keeps items that will still suck small amounts of current when turned off (eg. electronic heat controllers) from draining the battery. It also keeps items that the rider forgets to switch off from draining the battery.

Each item still has it's own individual fuse, switch or controller (optional) and wiring as it would normally have. The POS wire just gets connected to pin 87 of the relay instead of directly to the POS terminal of the batter.

As for wire gauge size this has nothing to do with relays or switches but is dependent entirely on the current flow. See the chart.

 
#5 · (Edited)
2015 power outlet install

This is my small write up of the 2015 Versys 650 power Outlet install

This could also be used for a usb style outlet as well


Items I used
1. OEM kawasaki power relay Item# 99994-0556
http://www.kawasaki.com/Accessories/Item/KLE650FFF/999940556

2. Trackside 12 Volt Power Adapter from Cycle gear on-sale $12.99
http://www.cyclegear.com/TRACKSIDE-12-Volt-Power-Adapter

3. 1 male Bullet connector and 1 female Bullet connector

4. 3m Black electrical Tape

5. Zip ties

6. Instructions for power outlet

http://www.kawasaki.com/Content/Uploads/Accessories/999940485/ii_999940485.pdf

7. Instructions for Relay kit

http://www.kawasaki.com/Content/Uploads/Accessories/999940556/ii_999940556.pdf




This Is a rough idea of what I did.

1 I down loaded the instructions for the Relay kit here

http://www.kawasaki.com/Content/Uploads/Accessories/999940556/ii_999940556.pdf

2 I down loaded the Factory acceries

http://www.kawasaki.com/Content/Uploads/Accessories/999940485/ii_999940485.pdf

I read them determined that I need to access the upper front of the motorcycle under the wind screen This is where the wiring connectors are located
the instructions tell you to refer to the shop manual. I don't have one, so I took my time looking at the bike carefully and using my cell phone camara too look up into the fairing.

3 To get to the wiring you need to remove the wind screen and the plastic panel below it.

4 Windscreen it easy just unscrew the 2 adjustment nobs completely. careful not to loose the steel washers.

5 To remove the cover you will need to remove allen screws and 2 push pins

Push pin


6 The allen wrench needed is 4mm take the 2 screws out of the front of panel careful not to loose the nylon washers.

PHOTOS TO FOLLOW


7 Remove 2 push pins on top of plastic cowling. To remove these push the center down lightly the will recess slightly then you will be able to lift them out.


Pictures to follow of push pin Location

I use a small Nail remover which works good for removing panel fasteners

Here is a picture of one similar to the one I use



8. To remove the panel
Lightly grab the front of the cover. There are two small openings in the front. With a downward and forward pull, the cover will slide off.
 
#53 ·
No Need to Remove Windshield



Excellent write up and pictures, if you have the windshield at the highest setting the panel can easily be removed without removing the windscreen. BTW for those that do remove , check to see if you have a wavy washer plus a flat washer, most if not all 2015 have been shipped without this, FastEddie noted this in a write up under 2015 Versys. Without that washer, your knobs will vibrate loose and vanish , along with a possible loss of the shield.
 
#8 · (Edited)
After relay is installed
Time to remove plug in dash
Its held in place on the back side with a metal bracket and screw
Remove screw with short Philips screw driver. and bracket will fall off when screw is removed and plug will remove easily now

I used a cycle gear power outlet
which is held in place by a screw on retaining collar
unscrew collar slide it off of power outlet and wires

insert power outlet "(wires first) though hole in dash

the reinstall screw on collar over wires , under dash and tighten firmly
 
#9 · (Edited)
I had to install electrical connectors on the power outlet to match the factory wires
One female bullet connector and one female bullet connector


install the male connector on the red positive wire

and install the female connector on the black wire


Plug the red positive wire together with the white with red strip wire

plug the black wire together with the black wire with white strip.

here is the picture of the wires together


I taped up all connections separately then taped all the wires together
 
#14 · (Edited)
Really dumb newbie question. What does the relay do? Run the power through a fuse? Anything else? Could you just put a fuse on the positive line? What is the risk of directly connecting the 12 volt adaptor directly to the battery? Kill the battery? Short out the electrical system?

I am going to get the OEM relay and do it right, but I am curious about the purpose. I guess you want to isolate the various electrical components so that the failure of one does not impact the others. Is that right?

I have a 2013. Will it be relatively easy to adapt these instructions? Or should I find instructions for Gen 2?
 
#15 ·
You could wire a 12v socket to the battery. It would always be powered and you'd want to have an inline fuse on it.

I believe that the OEM relay switches on the connectors for the 12v outlet, gear indicator, heated grips and fog lights (someone please correct me if I'm wrong).
 
#18 ·
Caution

Thank you for all your work and photos! I just returned from the dealer and learned about the need for the relay (which I orderred). There was
no mention of it in Kawasaki's installation instructions for their 12v charging port. The dealer service people (excellent) were also puzzled but found the need for the relay by testing with an ohm meter and traced the accessory leads to it.
CAUTION.....
If you have the 2015 Verysys 650LT, be aware that you may not be able to use the 12v. charging port due to lack of clearance between the port and the hand guard brackets. I chose to install a dual USB port instead for that reason. I also orderred a right angle USB adapter that solves the clearance issue.
 
#39 ·
CAUTION.....
If you have the 2015 Verysys 650LT, be aware that you may not be able to use the 12v. charging port due to lack of clearance between the port and the hand guard brackets. I chose to install a dual USB port instead for that reason. I also orderred a right angle USB adapter that solves the clearance issue.

I have the LT, and was about to install a 12v outlet when I saw this video https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7jFCTW9IXNE

At about 8:45 into the video he breaks the USB port because the hand guards clip the usb cable. Just curious if anyone else has encountered this? I'd prefer the dash install, but if this is an issue then I guess I'll go with bar mount or frame.
 
#26 ·
Hallo Great explanation for installing - I am about to installing power to my sat nav. Can anybody tell me if I can connect the sat nav cable too the same wire that hook the 12v outlet too the relay? I got the same problem as others - the handguard ruins the 12v outlet - very bad design :(
 
#27 ·
Wiring Auxiliary Devices / Relay / LED Lights

Hi All,
Been searching high and low about the ignition wire color scheme. I'm trying to tap into the right ignition wire for my aux lights install. Would love not to splice into an existing wire and prefer using an available aux port (if there's another available). I already have a 12 v. plug installed on the left side (under the tank fairing) using one. Not sure there's another...

So a couple of questions:
1. Is there another (a second) aux power port on the left that can be used to "quick splice" into for the aux lights?

if not...

2. Which (color) wire in the ignition (switched) assembly would be the right wire to use to to "quick splice" into for power the aux lights?


Thanks in advance for the help!
 
#28 ·
Heres all i know about the wires. I used the tail light wire to tap into for my switched juice for my Garmin Zumo......

Red Wire is Tail Light

Blue Wire is Brake Light

Green Wire is Right Turn Signal

Yellow Wire is Left Turn Signal
 
#29 ·
What Year

Hi All,
Been searching high and low about the ignition wire color scheme. I'm trying to tap into the right ignition wire for my aux lights install. Would love not to splice into an existing wire and prefer using an available aux port (if there's another available). I already have a 12 v. plug installed on the left side (under the tank fairing) using one. Not sure there's another...

So a couple of questions:
1. Is there another (a second) aux power port on the left that can be used to "quick splice" into for the aux lights?

if not...

2. Which (color) wire in the ignition (switched) assembly would be the right wire to use to to "quick splice" into for power the aux lights?


Thanks in advance for the help!
You need to post the year of bike, there are manuals on this forum for every year.

Also post what these auxiliary lights are, 5 watt Total no problem , 60 watt or more you need a relay, separate fuse.

2015 / 2016 have provision in front for loads like this, including heated grips, still require a relay. From reading your post, one would assume you want to tie into the main keyed power wire, not a very smart idea. Embarrassing should a short occur, nothing like sitting on a dead bike that won't start.


Post the correct info and I or some other inmate will help.
 
#30 ·
You need to post the year of bike, there are manuals on this forum for every year.

Also post what these auxiliary lights are, 5 watt Total no problem , 60 watt or more you need a relay, separate fuse.

2015 / 2016 have provision in front for loads like this, including heated grips, still require a relay. From reading your post, one would assume you want to tie into the main keyed power wire, not a very smart idea. Embarrassing should a short occur, nothing like sitting on a dead bike that won't start.


Post the correct info and I or some other inmate will help.
Thanks for your offer. I have 2013. My lights are these: MondoMotos MM10 Bullet LED Auxiliary Light Kit (V3) | MondoMotos Motorcycle Lighting, LED Lighting and Accessories


I'm following these:
http://mondomotos.com/download/Wiring Instructions -Switch.pdf.7161b4d7bbf88adfc85f2a3c37c16b29


(Step 7A is where I'm at for inquiry.)


Thanks!
 
#31 ·
MondoMotos MM10 Bullet LED Auxiliary Light Kit

Wiring, so I am going to give several options for wiring, including conditions I would expect you to follow.

What I ask is for you to post a review so others on this forum can benefit from this info.
If I bought these, which I may depending on the reviews from others, this is what I would do, listed in order of preference #1 being my preferred method and #3 my least favourite.


Engine Ground:
#1--Remove the 5 watt city light bulbs and convert to led bulbs.
Connect the negative black wires for the Mondo lights to the engine ground , located 5 inches from the starter motor. If you don't have a crimp, get two stainless washers, place one washer directly on top of the engine ground crimp , strip auxiliary ground wire insulation, and wrap around terminal, place second washer on top of wire, add original nut and tighten. Most stainless washers are half the thickness of ferrous washers.
Connect positive switch wire to city lights positive wire Brown with white tracer, connect return wire from switch to positive Mondo lights.

Advantage, lights come on with key, but can also be used in the locked steering Park position, total watts is claimed to be 10 watts each or 20 Watts total.

Note #1; City lights uses a 10 amp fuse and powers the tail light, so if you had a short, you would still have your regular headlight. Personally I would install a waterproof inline fuse that is the same as your regular fuses, fuse it at or below 5 amp.This way if you crash and damage the wiring, all other devices continue to work as normal.

In the case of #2 or #3, it is a must to fuse the wire coming from the headlight.

Note #2***preferred method of all connections especially in #2 & #3 is strip a 1/4 or less insulation of the wire being tapped and solder and tape, the splice connectors work fine in a pinch but tend to cut/ break copper strands

#2 Follow same procedure for ground in #1, but connect the positive switch to the low beam headlight, wire Blue with Yellow tracer

Lights only come on after motor is running.

#3 Follow same procedure for ground in #1, connect switch positive to high beam red with black tracer

Lights only come on with motor running and are switched on and off with the high beam or passing switch only.


I could not find a candle power rating for these, as wattage is meaningless without a candlepower rating.


Below info copied and pasted from manufacturer


Led rated at Specs:

Input voltage 10-30V DC


Utilizes the CREE XM/L LED
Made of strong die cast aluminum with a nearly unbreakable lens
IP68 (submersible) Standard, Weatherproof, Waterproof and Shock proof
All hardware, bolts, nuts and washers are stainless steel
25 Degree focused beam for optimum visibilty
10 Watts (each)
Low Current Draw = 0.8A @ 12V (each)
LED Luminous Efficency = Compares to 50/55W Halogen (each)
Extremely long life - up to 50,000hrs
Weatherproof Plug-n-Play Harness



Light Kit Includes:

2 x MM10 Bullet Plug-n-Play Lights
2 x M6 Stainless Steel Mounting Brackets
Plug -n-Play Fused Wiring Harness w/Relay and Lighted Switch
Instructions (online)
Optional Handlebar Mounted Switch is Available
 
#32 ·
Success!

Thanks to Onewizard's great suggestion and thorough description, the lights are on and working beautifully. I followed his #2 option as I didn't see a specific need for keyed lighting activation. Below is a collection of project pics. As you can see the MM10's are awesome. I think they look like they compliment the bike as well as any other lighting system out there. Sure, they're not the cheapest...but you usually get what you pay for and these lights are SOLID!

Pic 1: Pre-drilled L-shaped mounting bracket purchased form Ace for $1.50 piece. I bent them closed a tad so that they would align the lights on the bike in proper balance. I took the extra step of wrapping the brackets with electrical tape (improved look and snug).

Pic 2: Mounting location under tank faring (R and L) - using existing radiator plastics attachment sockets - perfect!!

Pic 3 and 4: Lights mounted...solid as can be!

Pic 5: Handle bar switch (an optional addition - much better then the standard switch that comes in the package).

Pic 6: All buttoned up.

Pic 7: Ready to roll!

There you have it. Once I knew which stock wire (city light) to splice into with the positive switch lead, everything fell right into place. I'm just waiting for the LED bulbs for the head lights to arrive.
 

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#33 ·
Kawasaki Relay Kits / AUX. Outlet

Success!

Thanks to Onewizard's great suggestion and thorough description, the lights are on and working beautifully. I followed his #2 option as I didn't see a specific need for keyed lighting activation. Below is a collection of project pics. As you can see the MM10's are awesome. I think they look like they compliment the bike as well as any other lighting system out there. Sure, they're not the cheapest...but you usually get what you pay for and these lights are SOLID!

Pic 1: Pre-drilled L-shaped mounting bracket purchased form Ace for $1.50 piece. I bent them closed a tad so that they would align the lights on the bike in proper balance. I took the extra step of wrapping the brackets with electrical tape (improved look and snug).

Pic 2: Mounting location under tank faring (R and L) - using existing radiator plastics attachment sockets - perfect!!

Pic 3 and 4: Lights mounted...solid as can be!

Pic 5: Handle bar switch (an optional addition - much better then the standard switch that comes in the package).

Pic 6: All buttoned up.

Pic 7: Ready to roll!

There you have it. Once I knew which stock wire (city light) to splice into with the positive switch lead, everything fell right into place. I'm just waiting for the LED bulbs for the head lights to arrive.
My thought on using the city lights Brown with White tracer, and this comes from seeing others using their motorcycle for touring, getting in late to set up camp in the dark. Using the city lights in the park position, you could use those MondoMotos for a 1.5 hours, without the motor running and without drastically affecting the charge, last 10 minutes of use you could start the bike , and if you had added a series regulator and followed my post on Polaris you could have the battery fully charged in about 7 minutes .

Added a couple links for auxiliary connections for relay kits.

https://www.kawasaki.com/Content/Uploads/Accessories/999940195/ii_999940195.pdf

The 195 is designed to be mounted by the TPS and includes a mounting bracket, designed to power heated grips and make use of existing wiring in 2010 on bikes.

http://www.kawasaki.com/Content/Uploads/Accessories/999940485/ii_999940485.pdf

The above shows the pricey cigarette lighter socket for 2015 /2016

http://www.kawasaki.com/Content/Uploads/Accessories/999940556/ii_999940556.pdf

The 556 is relay kit for the front harness of 2015 / 2016 , reasonably priced---yes you can get a relay from China for 1/4 of this, not really waterproof.

The above are relay kits, drawings from Kawasaki.
 
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