Valve Check/Adjustment - Page 13 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #241 of 273 (permalink) Old 05-26-2015, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by vvlatko View Post
Since one would open the cylinder head I guess it would be smart to change the gasket....but which one is it so I can pre-order and don't wait for it to arrive when the bike is in the shop (I know they don't have it in stock)

Also, can anyone mark which shim is which on a picture? (Cyl 1 intake-exhaust etc.)
Valve cover gasket is made of rubber. It doesn't need to be removed or replaced.

Cylinder # 1 is on the left, and # 2 is on the right... Exhaust valves are at the front, and inlet valves are at the rear.
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post #242 of 273 (permalink) Old 05-26-2015, 07:37 PM
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Valve Check/Adjustment

If you look on top of the valve comer there are two arrows and numbers showing you which side is 1and 2 cylinder.

I did not replace my valve cover gasket.

There are also 2 smaller gaskets inside the engine that you might want to replace only because they seal the spark plug holes and detecting a leak here is very hard. The gaskets are like a big and smaller o-ring joined together.

I did not replace these either.

When you are measuring and/or replacing the shims map out a box gridS on TWO sheet of paper you will need a 4 column by 2 row grid. Mark the cylinders and intake and exhaust positions on the grids. Make the grids big as you need to write all the information of the shim in that position. Use the OTHER sheet to place the shim on in corresponding position. The other sheet grid will get oily and dirty hence why you use 2 sheets.
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post #243 of 273 (permalink) Old 05-27-2015, 09:25 AM
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Before I checked and adjusted the valves about a year ago, I ordered a valve cover gasket, just in case. I didn't need to replace it, so the new gasket is in its plastic bag in my garage. If and when I need it, there it is. Didn't cost much. It's nice to have around.

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post #244 of 273 (permalink) Old 06-22-2015, 01:02 PM
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Speaking of the gasket..

I'm just about to go our and adjust the shims. My four intake valves are are .13, I have two exhausts at .20, and two more at .23. The values are only one row off from being "close enough" in the shop manual....but I'm already about 80% of the way thru....might as well get it right.

I have one question about the timing cover gasket. Mine looks fine, but it's still stuck to the bottom on the right side where there are a couple of half-circles in the lower case. Should I use a razor blade to separate it from them?
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post #245 of 273 (permalink) Old 06-22-2015, 02:01 PM
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Pics, Pics, we need more Pics.
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post #246 of 273 (permalink) Old 06-22-2015, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by rronald View Post
I'm just about to go our and adjust the shims. My four intake valves are are .13, I have two exhausts at .20, and two more at .23. The values are only one row off from being "close enough" in the shop manual....but I'm already about 80% of the way thru....might as well get it right.

I have one question about the timing cover gasket. Mine looks fine, but it's still stuck to the bottom on the right side where there are a couple of half-circles in the lower case. Should I use a razor blade to separate it from them?
Don't use a razor blade, just twist it in and out a little, kind of like you would do to remove a loose tooth, that'll break the bond of whatever sealer or adhesive they put on it.
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post #247 of 273 (permalink) Old 06-22-2015, 02:44 PM
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Pic added. I needed to let the shims I'm sanding cool before measuring them anyway.

RR
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post #248 of 273 (permalink) Old 06-22-2015, 08:03 PM
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Pic added. I needed to let the shims I'm sanding cool before measuring them anyway.

RR
Mine stuck exactly the same way. There's a groove and some adhesive on the gasket. Pinch the half circle part of the gasket between your thumb and finger and gently wiggle the gasket back and forth it'll loosen up and come off.
I removed some of the globs of adhesive and put mine back dry, no leaking.

Last edited by ray h; 06-22-2015 at 08:06 PM.
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post #249 of 273 (permalink) Old 06-22-2015, 08:24 PM
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Sometimes there is a dab of gasket goop on the joins to help seal and also to hold in place during assembly. Just have to wiggle it free.

Mine did not have any goop but the oil seal was harder to pull off around the half discs. It was clean and I reused the oil deal and no leaks.
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post #250 of 273 (permalink) Old 06-22-2015, 09:03 PM
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I just left the gasket and half moon caps in place. No need to remove it.
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post #251 of 273 (permalink) Old 11-24-2015, 02:40 PM
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Hello Folks,

Long time member and lurker and own a 2008 Versys that is now at 26K miles. I'm mechanically challenged enough to do the valve check and adjust myself. Would be happy to pay a fellow member to help me with this before I consider going to a dealership. If someone with experience is interested, would you kindly PM me and we can take it from there? I live in Cary, NC, but can travel 2-3 hours to meet and work on the bike... Thanks!!
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post #252 of 273 (permalink) Old 11-26-2015, 12:09 PM
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Hello Folks,

Long time member and lurker and own a 2008 Versys that is now at 26K miles. I'm mechanically challenged enough to do the valve check and adjust myself. Would be happy to pay a fellow member to help me with this before I consider going to a dealership. If someone with experience is interested, would you kindly PM me and we can take it from there? I live in Cary, NC, but can travel 2-3 hours to meet and work on the bike... Thanks!!
Just be advised that the check is done at "room temp", so your bike will need to cool overnight.

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post #253 of 273 (permalink) Old 11-27-2015, 02:33 PM
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Thanks Ed!! Hadn't thought about that!
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post #254 of 273 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016, 11:38 AM
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In the middle of doing my inspection/adjustment. Thank you for the tips. I found that the shock spring adjuster in the tool kit is the perfect size to remove the big inspection port cover.
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post #255 of 273 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 08:27 PM
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I did the valves on my KLR according to the guides at KLR.net The advice there was to torque the caps much lower than the manual says to avoid breaking them.

1. Do people reduce the torque on these bolts? If so to what?
2. Has anyone replaced the valve cover gasket or the two inner gaskets?

Crash

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post #256 of 273 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 09:09 PM
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I did the valves on my KLR according to the guides at KLR.net The advice there was to torque the caps much lower than the manual says to avoid breaking them.

1. Do people reduce the torque on these bolts? If so to what?
2. Has anyone replaced the valve cover gasket or the two inner gaskets?

Crash
There is a complete thread on this in the How To Forum, to answer your question, I torqued according to the specs in the manual, I can tell you they were way over torqued removing them. As to breaking them, there are exhaust and intake, don't mix them. As to breaking them, the problem comes in when a lack of skill and a lack of patience is combined. These caps are precision machined to a very close tolerance, if they don't go on easily, stop and remove the cap, probably not going on squarely , peoplke have been known to put the bolts in and start torquing the bolts with a crooked cap, next thing is snap. Second thing to remember is to tighten in a X pattern, use a reduced setting , 60%, 80% 100%. It is explained in the How To thread. And the gaskets, read the thread, to my knowledge, no one ever replaced the gaskets. You will need some permatex or other sealant as described in that thread. I have done it and many others, Fasteddiecopeman is probably on the 5th or 6th time doing this.

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...djustment.html

Last edited by onewizard; 01-10-2017 at 09:13 PM.
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post #257 of 273 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 10:57 PM
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I don't reduce cap clamping torque... I always do it by feel, perception and judgement, mostly from experience and without the use of a torque wrench which I save for large high torque bolts, axle nuts, etc.
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post #258 of 273 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Crash View Post
I did the valves on my KLR according to the guides at KLR.net The advice there was to torque the caps much lower than the manual says to avoid breaking them.

1. Do people reduce the torque on these bolts? If so to what?
2. Has anyone replaced the valve cover gasket or the two inner gaskets?

Crash
My answers:
1. NO! I do it "by-the-book" (the SERVICE MANUAL) and recommend you get a 1/4" torque wrench (reading in INCH/POUNDS for these jobs). I believe that some have broken those bolts by mistaking [ "/# ] with [ '/# ], using a 3/8" torque wrench.
2. I haven't. Just take your time, and be GENTLE working in there. Getting the "valve cover gasket" properly mounted can be challenging, at least for ME.

Ed
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post #259 of 273 (permalink) Old 01-13-2017, 02:11 AM
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my experience with shim kits is you get too many that you will never need. the valves almost always get tighter over time, not looser. no harm in sanding them down for a fit, they are through hardened high alloy steel

before I got a surface plate I used a piece of glass. tape the sandpaper to the glass, hot glue the shim to a piece of dowel

if I'm answering your question I assume the basic points have been addressed, such as: did you do a compression test? is it still on fire?
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post #260 of 273 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 08:13 PM
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New Improved Valve Shim Check / FastEddiecopeman

Just off the phone with Eddie, expect a somewhat easier method of doing this, some of it from the manual, including a easier way of installing the cam chain tensioner!
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