Valve Check/Adjustment - Page 11 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #201 of 273 (permalink) Old 02-24-2015, 05:20 PM
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It's pretty easy. Keep your waterproof sandpaper wet with water. Change your grip on the shim often to thin it down proportionally, and confirm with your micrometer as you go. Keep in mind that your micrometer reads differently once warmed up in your hand (operating temperature)... Dull out the sharp edge with your sandpaper a bit once you're done thinning shim.
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post #202 of 273 (permalink) Old 02-24-2015, 05:36 PM
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Angry

Quote:
Originally Posted by adamsrob View Post
Sorry. I am in Canada, thus the metric confusion

0.116 inches = 2.95mm
0.115 inches = 2.90mm

At $13.00 per shim and wait for about 2 weeks to get them... If I screw them up, I will order new ones.
No, you don't need to pay $13 per shim!

You can get 7.48mm diameter shims in 2.875 or 2.900 or 2.925 or 2.950 or 2.975 mm thickness for about $9.00, as listed for 2006-2011 Kawasaki KX-250F.

Shim ------- Suzuki # ----- Kawasaki #

2.800mm - K9218-00179 - 92180-0179
2.825mm - K9218-00180 - 92180-0180
2.850mm - K9218-00181 - 92180-0181
2.875mm - K9218-00182 - 92180-0182
2.900mm - K9218-00183 - 92180-0183
2.925mm - K9218-00184 - 92180-0184
2.950mm - K9218-00185 - 92180-0185
2.975mm - K9218-00186 - 92180-0186
3.000mm - K9218-00187 - 92180-0187
3.025mm - K9218-00188 - 92180-0188
3.050mm - K9218-00189 - 92180-0189
3.075mm - K9218-00190 - 92180-0190
3.100mm - K9218-00191 - 92180-0191

...and so on in the smaller and larger sizes...

Last edited by invader; 02-24-2015 at 05:40 PM.
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post #203 of 273 (permalink) Old 04-23-2015, 09:55 AM
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Hey you guys, I was pretty well indisposed with health issues over the winter, and am just getting back to my Versys project now.

I am in the process of turning this pile of recently refinished parts back into a bike.



I have the engine out and on the bench. It ran like a peach before I stripped the bike, but I was coming up on 13,000-14,000 miles on her, and want to do the valve check before the engine goes back in. My tech abilities are more "trained monkey syndrome" than anything, I have to see it done several times, do it with supervision, and after about five attempts, I can normally grasp a process and be OK with something.

I am not an internal-engines-guy. I have the top of the engine off, the side/port/inspection caps off, a socket and extension perched on the crank so the engine can be turned over, but that's where I stopped.

The thumbnail size black and white diagram for "lining up" everything before I start poking (AIMLESSLY) with feeler gauges--- I am not sure what I am doing there. Plus, the verbiage that accompanies the wee little diagram is sort of one long paragraph of steps and numbers and shi*t that I don't understand.

I don't want to mess this up, so I come to you guys with my dirty helmet in hand, and ask, WHAT THE HE*LL do I do next??





I promise to supply you with Versys-assembly porn in exchange for your tech tips.
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post #204 of 273 (permalink) Old 04-23-2015, 12:50 PM
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As well as following the manual, as best you can, you will be checking the valve clearances when the valves are NOT being depressed by a cam-lobe. Look for the two lobes (intake and exhaust) to be pointing, one forward, one rearwards, slightly ABOVE level.

HOPE that's clear to you.

AND- I use a magnet to remove the "bucket" w/ the shim held underneath it by magnetic attraction.


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post #205 of 273 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015, 10:24 AM
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I will keep that in mind Ed,

thanks
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post #206 of 273 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015, 10:51 AM
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Those lobes were a little tricky for me to figure out the first time. Take you're time, double, triple, quadruple check if you need to...I sure did...

There are some great threads about checking valve clearances here. I'm guessing you've read them.

Keep us posted!

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post #207 of 273 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015, 11:03 AM
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Thanks Bailey,

I might save it for Saturday, and hopefully lure some chums --- with donuts to stop by and render some interpretation and assistance

A job best done over coffee and donuts,

"versys" while under the influence (beer).


More later

Oh, some PORN:

This from yesterday, progress thus far on the parts I can work with;

Frame+swing-arm media blasted and powder coated + new shock

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post #208 of 273 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015, 11:38 AM
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You have the motor out of the bike and on a bench so you have 100x better view and feel of what you are doing. Also if you have to replace shims then access to the bolts is easier for torquing them back up.

When checking the clearances you can keep rotating the engine and see what is happening at eye level.
With the engine on the bench you will easily see what the lobes are doing in conjunction with the timing mark in the inspection hole.
It is a bit harder when it is in the bike.

When using the feeler gauges, make sure they are clean - you don't want dirt or grime thickening the measurement. I wipe the feelers I'm going to measure first with clean paper towel, then using some engine oil on my thumb and finger I pinch the feelers and pull out so as to put a small film of oil on the outsides to add a bit of lubrication.
You can add more than one feeler together to create a thicker value. Fold the unused feelers back into the protective body, You normal bow the feelers to get into tight spots, but do not bend sharply the thin ones can crease or tear real easy.

The feeler(s) thickness should just slip in the gap without being forced. A good start is to work with feeler thickness within the range of the engine specifications. This way you can work up or down till the feelers fit.

Note that some feeler gauge sets do not go up in nice little increments.
You might get some sets that can do .05mm or .02mm as a minimum.
The nearest easy fit thickness is OK as you have some fudging with shim thickness later to work out and you will still be within spec.

Once you work out the current gap, you will know if it is time to change shims or not, by checking the gap specifications.

When time to change shims... I used the zip tie method.

I really enjoyed pulling the top end apart and doing my shims.
I was very nervous before thinking about doing it, but once I started and used the helpful guides on this forum it was actually fun.

Enjoy.

Last edited by Gigitt; 04-24-2015 at 11:43 AM.
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post #209 of 273 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015, 11:47 AM
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Many thanks, G,

All good. Frankly, I could not see it being much fun with the "mill" still trapped in the bike. I was stripping it for service and a facelift anyway. Hopefully I will find it all within spec, I can button it up, pat it on the head and plant it back in the frame.

Man I hope I don't have to mess with changing shims. I did buy some nice feeler gauges with the mild elbow or slight bend in them (I just didn't know what to do with them, with any confidence... ). I also ordered and now have in hand, new rubber grommet things for the head bolts-- some of mine were rotting and cracking, plus I got a new gasket just in case, although the old one came out clean I will change it now anyway.
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post #210 of 273 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015, 11:54 AM
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Good to hear you are on top of the inner o-rings.

I too bought the angled feeler gauges but I did not use then as my straight ones had finer feelers. A bit disappointing as I thought the angled ones would be great to use, little did I know then but the thicknesses were too broad for this bike.
Tip: get feeler gauges with sh1t loads of feelers! or at least reduced range to fit the purpose.
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post #211 of 273 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015, 12:01 PM
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I was impressed at how good the plugs looked, and the gap was still in spec. I will hang onto them for spares, but out of I don't know, guilt? I ordered new ones for her so I can call that "done" and perhaps coast the next many, many miles without concern for some of this...
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post #212 of 273 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015, 12:32 PM
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Make SURE to use an "inch-pound" torque wrench so you DON'T break fasteners in the top-end!!! Guys here have done THAT, by confusing "/# with '/#.

The Harbor-Freight 1/4" ones go for about $10 w/ an advert. from a magazine, and "Car Craft" magazine called them very accurate, and I have TWO, one each in BC and AZ.

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post #213 of 273 (permalink) Old 04-25-2015, 09:42 AM
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I have that exact T-wrench......

now if I can find it....

Moved a couple times... shi*t scattered as a result.

EDIT:

That reminds me, I had pretty good luck with HF's bearing slide-hammer-puller for doing my wheel bearings and such. Not cheap, but an option.



.

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post #214 of 273 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 11:01 PM
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Thanks for the photos and all the write up about shaving the shims, saving me at least $40 in shims from eBay or $70 for a complete Hotcams shim kit.

Can you guys elaborate on calculating the shims size needed with a pic.

Think this will help those (me) on how to make sure i'm using the correct replacement shims.

V-ing in NYC !!
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post #215 of 273 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 11:18 PM
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Give me your actual valve clearance measurements with your corresponding shim thicknesses, preferably in Metric.
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post #216 of 273 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 11:33 AM
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Over the weekend, some rider pals stopped over. Best as we could conclude, all of mine are a tad snug/tight under spec (too tight).

I don't have the exact numbers in front of me, but I am continuing to grasp the concept here in little pieces.

I am comfortable with the sanding process, I am open to that no prob.
Part of my question is, is it a 1-1 "conversation" between what I need to sand off in thousands, and what I need to "erase" per the feeler gauge to end up back in the happy window of acceptable?

ie, if you are over by X amount, you need to sand or "erase" the same X amount off the shim?

I have a micrometer around somewhere.

More: Is it critical to get all of the "gaps" or clearances to be nearly the same, like "center of the window of tolerance" or is it ok if that varies a little but is still WITHIN spec?

Odd question, is there any sense in aiming for the top end or wider end of tolerance, so one does not have to worry about this again for awhile?

Thanks for your patience, this is a tad out of my comfort zone but I am willing to try, as I am not sure whom I would trust to do it as far as shops are concerned.

Also, what is the zip tie method?

I am hungry for tips so I don't mess this up.

Momma was a Ninja, pappy was a KLR, now it's me Versys the world.

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post #217 of 273 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 11:54 AM
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Love your sketch style photos!

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post #218 of 273 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 12:04 PM
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Thanks Bailey,

OFF TOPIC: sooory

Went back to school at 54 for Graphic Design/fine art photography. I just use what I learn for fun at this point. I got to go riding with AL GORE on Saturday!


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post #219 of 273 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unstable_rider View Post
I am comfortable with the sanding process, I am open to that no prob.
Part of my question is, is it a 1-1 "conversation" between what I need to sand off in thousands, and what I need to "erase" per the feeler gauge to end up back in the happy window of acceptable?

ie, if you are over by X amount, you need to sand or "erase" the same X amount off the shim?
Yes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by unstable_rider View Post
More: Is it critical to get all of the "gaps" or clearances to be nearly the same, like "center of the window of tolerance" or is it ok if that varies a little but is still WITHIN spec?
NOT necessary, but IF you're in there anyway - why NOT?

Quote:
Originally Posted by unstable_rider View Post
Odd question, is there any sense in aiming for the top end or wider end of tolerance, so one does not have to worry about this again for awhile?
After my years on the KLR, I (along w/ others) always aim for the HIGH end of the range, as the valves will tighten over time, so if the range is .22mm to .31mm, I aim for .31.

Quote:
Originally Posted by unstable_rider View Post
Also, what is the zip tie method?
SOME use a zip-tie to hold the timing chain to the timing gears. I don't.


Ed
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post #220 of 273 (permalink) Old 05-08-2015, 08:53 PM
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Thanks ED!

I plunged back into this yesterday, and got four shims done before I had to be elsewhere. It was a good place to stop, knowing I had this under control when I pick it up again Saturday.

thanks again.

Couple cell phone shots, maybe clear some clouds for the next guy like me that did not have a clue.


The infamous zip tie method, great tip you guys, made me feel better.





One cover pulled (cam cover?).





Per someone's instructions I read, I pulled the adjuster:




Cam swung carefully out of the way.






I grabbed the largest magnetic probe-wand thing I had, you guys might have seen these, it's also a flashlight, it extends, and it might communicate with aliens, I forget.

Anyway.... it was what I had.





Oh, I packed some bubble wrap into the areas I did not want STUFF TO FALL INTO....

Then, stuck the magnet on the bucket thusly with a firm and crisp "click":





With the steadiness of a brain surgeon (that had been up all night drinking) you just twist and lift a little on the "bucket" with the magnet.




Twist, lift, and shout. "OMG, it's gone, my shim.... its... ????

Awe, life sucks. I hate myself...





Oh yes.... there you are.... life is worth living again...




Here be the little critter, freed from it's previously oily life under a bucket.

Gotcha!





Grabbed the newest dial caliper I could find around. Micrometer grew legs and left me... I checked it against several feeler gauges, and I deemed it accurate enough for government work. It was that or wooden yard stick.




I had some 220 wet paper on hand. I made sort of jig, I nice flat piece of steel clamped to the bench, some scraps of wood, sandwiched the paper to the steel, etc. A shot of WD40 once in awhile worked fine.

Sand, swirl around, swish, back and forth, rinse, repeat and check with the dial caliper.





I ran with Ed's suggestion of aiming for the high end of the spec- "acceptable" window of tolerance.

Back into it tomorrow, thanks again you guys. It made it enjoyable having the tech tips

Momma was a Ninja, pappy was a KLR, now it's me Versys the world.
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