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Time for new chain and sprockets.

9K views 43 replies 14 participants last post by  fasteddiecopeman 
#1 ·
So took the Versys out today for the first time all year, (It's the girlfriends now, I have the Tiger 800) and holy **** it ran terrible and scary. I had no brakes, the bike was surging and clacking and clonking and the throttle was sticky. I ended up asking her how long it had been like this and she answered "Oh a month and a half". :( So I really need to get her to tell me when things sound weird, and I added an item in my calendar to check it monthly.

So I ended up bleeding some nice looking black sludge out of her brakes and found her chain is stretched pretty badly and needs replacing along with both sprockets (27000km isn't bad but she never tightens it.) and then I found the throttle cable had slipped off the plastic tube and was catching so I lubed it and reseated it and then tightened it.

Anyway, my question was as follows. I can't find a good thread that tells me what my best options for putting on replacement sprockets is. I think it has a 16T front and 46T rear right? Would she benefit much from modifying that setup and does anyone know of a good place to order parts from that ships to Canada?

I love this Versys and want to see it last cause it's a blast to ride. Honestly it's more fun to ride than my Tiger even if it does feel like it was made in Soviet Russia after 17000km on the Tiger.
 
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#2 ·
15/46 tooth sprockets. Chain is a 114 link 520 X-ring. Only Kawasaki OEM countershaft (front) sprocket is rubber dampened and quieter... Stock setup is good, although 15/44 is popular. It's 4.54% taller than stock, which also reduces speedometer error down from about 7.5% over to about 3% over actual, while resulting in the odometer/trip meters reading about 4.54% under actual.

You can get an aftermarket DID, EK, RK, etc 120-link 520 X-ring chain and cut it to 114 links, and the rear sprocket from Motovan, Parts Canada, Kimpex, etc, through any Canadian motorcycle dealer.

http://bluestreakracing.ca/did-premium-vm520-x-ring-gold-black-120l.html
 
#3 ·
Nice, that sounds straight forward enough. Sounds like the OEM front sprocket is the way to go for her and I think leaving the gearing as is will probably be a good idea. My local Kawi dealer has been pretty good to me about all the stuff so I don't feel to ripped off paying them more monies.

Anyone have any opinions on oilers? (Scott Oilers, etc...) cause it seems like an easy way to compensate for her lack of paying attention to it.
 
#7 ·
Anyone have any opinions on oilers? (Scott Oilers, etc...) cause it seems like an easy way to compensate for her lack of paying attention to it.
Automatic oilers do mean less maintenance, but it's good to pay attention else you could have oil on the back tire.

Some people claim their chains last 20k-30k miles with no oiling at all. Haven't tried that method. The automatic oiler is working for me so far.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I believe the original sizes are 15/46. IMO performance is best for most conditions with stock sizes, there is always a trade off going up or down.

Would suggest buying a chain tool if you do not already own one. Stockton tools from CycleGear make a good one that is essentially a copy of the Motion Pro tool at less money. The OEM front sprocket has a rubber damper the after market sprockets don't seem to have - not sure if this makes any difference.

http://www.supersproxusa.com/products.php?cat=1709
 
#6 ·
Just replaced my chain and sprockets at 15,400 miles and I am dilligent about lubing, cleaning and adjusting. Chain was getting some stiff spots so better safe than sorry.

I stayed with the stock gearing because that is what makes this bike a blast to ride. If I wanted a tamer ride I would have bought the weestrom.

I reused the front washer that your bend, I just bent it on the opposite side that was bent for the original sproket. Will replace it next time. I don't notice any additional noise with the sunstar sprockets I put on the bike.
 
#8 ·
I've thought about it overnight and decided it's better I set a regular maintenance schedule that we both follow and I can teach her proper maintenance methods rather than reinforcing her not paying attention to the bikes condition. I'm going to run by princess Auto today and check out their chain tools and see if I can find a good chain cleaner somewhere.

I enjoy doing the maintenance stuff so damned much I should teach her how enjoyable it is too.
 
#16 ·
I've got a "Tirox" chain cleaning kit my brother bought me for a birthday present. It comes with a coiled bristle cleaner that goes around the chain, as well as an aerosol can of cleaner. I feel the brush thingy does more harm than good - the chain felt grittier after the one time I used it - and the material in the can is just kerosene or diesel fuel, so the whole thing seems a bit lame to me. Kerosene on a rag works a treat.

Oh and +1 on teaching your gf to do her own maintenance.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Makes sense. Looking at the chain to make sure it's oily and side of the tire to make sure it's clean, and cleaning the tire & adjusting nozzle position or flow rate if needed is all that's required. Occasionally checking oiler oil level too.

They even make a "dry oiler", but with that type you may still need to clean the chain? The wet kind keeps it clean because the chain slings off dirty oil.
http://www.carbonforbikes.com/index....html&XTCsid=5fdefe1ab9fd9e1c3d05580ec7bf79a9
 
#10 ·
... needs replacing along with both sprockets (27000km isn't bad but she never tightens it.) ...

Honestly it's more fun to ride than my Tiger even if it does feel like it was made in Soviet Russia after 17000km on the Tiger.
In Soviet Russia, the sprockets replace you!

More seriously, though, if you think of changing gearing on your bike, I found that gearingcommander.com can give you useful information. For example, if you go with 15/43 sprockets, using a 112-pin chain will give you the best wear characteristics. That length chain with the smaller rear sprocket also keeps the adjusters near the middle.
 
#15 ·
There is a slight loss in performance with 15/43 sprockets (6.98% taller than stock 15/46). Launches are a bit harder, and you can't tool around quite as slowly... It does reduce rpm by 6.98%, and results in a near accurate speedometer.

Which make and model of chain and sprockets did you order?
 
#12 ·
If you were responding to my post, I would say that it does nothing that I notice with respect to "power." I find that I can travel at US interstate speeds a whole lot better, however. Then again, if I was worried about power, i would have likely purchased another motorcycle.
 
#17 · (Edited)
I use WD-40 and a "Grunge Brush" to clean the chain with and Chain Wax to lube it. Only have 6000 on the "V" BUT had close to 18,000 on my KLR with a big rock decided I should change the sprocket and chain.

A little Go-Jo smeared in the sprockets will take the ridge of wax off and not hurt anything.

Be careful of what you use to both clean and lube a "O" ring or "X" ring chain with as they are permanently lubed at the factory and if the ring is damaged the chain will die very quickly. All you do when lubing a ring chain is lube the O-rings and rollers where the contact the sprockets.

I'm staying away from oilers as I remember "The Good Old Days" before sealed chains and the way everyone's bikes looked like a rolling oil spill. No need for that mess nowadays. It takes less than a minuet to lube a chain with the spray wax and I check to be sure it's adjusted and aligned that the same time once a week. Also scope the tire for any damage OR nails.
 
#19 ·
When I WD40 my chains, I just spray the chain liberally from the inside, bottom chain run, spin the rear wheel 3 times, then take a rag and wipe the excess WD40 off the chain (and overspray from the tire...:thumb:). I NEVER brush the chain.
 
#23 ·
That can't be serious. Can it?

Hmm also need to fix the throttle cable. The one that goes overtop the throttle tube has taken to slipping in between the throttle casing and the tube and gets stuck in there. I'm not sure if that is a problem with the casing or the cable at this point but I'll tinker more with it when it quits raining and see if I can figure out a plan for that. It's hard to google something I barely know how to describe.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Is the Master Link a rivet type, do you need a tool to set the rivets? Or is it a clip type link, has a little spring clip to hold it together?

Reason I ask is you really want a rivet type as they are much stronger. BUT if it's a spring clip type make sure the closed end face the direction the chain travels, that is on the lower side of the rear sprocket the closed end should face the rear of the bike. This keeps it from wanting to open and fall off the bike
 
#29 ·
It's a clip or at least it looks to be a clip as I didn't see a rivet link and considering it's scheduled to snow early next week I'm not particularly worried about cleaning the grease off the chain only to park it.

I do agree about the link but I don't have a rivet tool and I switched out one at the start of the year for a friend and it's been fine. I think as long as proper maintenance is done (inspection, etc...) that should be a minimal concern though I'm actually starting to think I'm going to put my chain tools and a spare chain in my top box as just an always there item.
 
#33 ·
Well that's just goddamned lovely. Trying to pull the nut off the front sprocket on the Versys nearly popped my knee out and has basically stripped the nut. It's soft ****ty metal and I should phone and see how much a replacement is before I bring out the dremel and cut it off. Cause using the breaker bar just stripped it with a brand near socket.
 
#34 ·
Yea that sucker's on there. I haven't heard of one rounding off though.

Call Eagle Mike and get one of his Prevailing Nuts rather than a factory one. You don't need the bent washer thing and it can be used time after time.
 
#36 · (Edited)
Mike run a shop that makes tons of stuff for KLRs. I have bought from him many time. He's one of the Good Guys. Anyway I ask him about the nut and he said it should fit a Versys as well.

Here's a link to his site. and the Prevailing Torque Nut. I have one on my KLR and will be ordering one for my Versys over winter.

http://www.eaglemike.com/Prevailing-torque-nut-PTN.htm
 
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