Valve clearance check question - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-29-2011, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Valve clearance check question

When removing the valve cover the manual instructs us to remove the throttle cables from the pulley at the throttle body. I want to know if its possible to work the valve cover off without doing this. I just hate to mess with the throttle cables unless its the only way. Has anyone managed to get to the valve check without doing this? Or should I just bite the billet and do what the manual says?? I've nearly reached my mechanical limits with just taking all the S**t off the bike to get to the cover.
Thanks to all you valve experts out thar.....
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post #2 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-29-2011, 04:01 PM
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I tried to get the valve cover off once without disconnecting the throttle cables and it wouldn't go, so yes, IMHO they should come off. Loosen the adjusters to full slack, makes it a lot easier. Good luck.
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post #3 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-29-2011, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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Yes I tried and it would not come out. I took the throttle cable housing apart at the grip to get the slack and I think I created a mess to put back together versus adding slack thru the adjusters. Live and learn, even it is the hard way!
Gonna see what the clearances are tomorrow.
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post #4 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-29-2011, 05:40 PM
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I just did this yesterday. I left the cables in place and tried to get the cover off. There is not enough clearance between the top of the cam sprockets and the lower throttle cable to get the cover off. (Maybe it can be done by someone trickier than I.)

I opened up the handlebar throttle housing and disconnected the "pull" cable (the one toward the front of the bike) from the twist grip. I left the other cable connected. Then I went down to the throttle bodies and pulled some slack in the lower cable (closest to the cam cover) and snaked the cable outer housing out of the holder without disconnecting the inner cable from the throttle body. This got the cable out of the way enough to get the cam cover off.

At least in this way, I only disconnected one of the 4 cable ends.

I also left the clutch cable holder bolted to the cam cover; I just opened it up and pulled the cable away.

Michael
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post #5 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-29-2011, 06:08 PM
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The throttle cable housing (at the handgrip) is absolutely diabolical to try to get back together. Set aside an afternoon just for that.
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post #6 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-29-2011, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mt. Versuvius View Post
The throttle cable housing (at the handgrip) is absolutely diabolical to try to get back together. Set aside an afternoon just for that.
I'll probably be happy if it only takes a day...
Maybe I'll be lucky and I won't need to adjust any valves.
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post #7 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-29-2011, 08:32 PM
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I had to replace a cable once because it was frayed, nothing to do with the valve check.
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post #8 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-29-2011, 08:33 PM
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I wonder how long this takes I'm due to have my valves checked.
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post #9 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-29-2011, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mt. Versuvius View Post
The throttle cable housing (at the handgrip) is absolutely diabolical to try to get back together. Set aside an afternoon just for that.
X2! That's where I did my disconnects too.

Ed

My KLR trip to Alaska, YT, NWT and BC in summer 2009
http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=69383

My Versys trip to D2D 2013, and Alaska, June '13
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ad.php?t=33153

My Versys trip to D2D 2015, and Inuvik, June '15
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ad.php?t=83034
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post #10 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-30-2011, 03:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olegeezer View Post
When removing the valve cover the manual instructs us to remove the throttle cables from the pulley at the throttle body. I want to know if its possible to work the valve cover off without doing this. I just hate to mess with the throttle cables unless its the only way. Has anyone managed to get to the valve check without doing this?
I had no problems checking and adjusting my valve clearances without removing cables from throttle bodies pulley, or from the throttle grip.
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post #11 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-30-2011, 04:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by versystim View Post
I wonder how long this takes I'm due to have my valves checked.
Are you talking DIY or getting a shop to do it? If you've done the valve inspection/adjustment on other bikes I think you'll find the Versys a breeze to work on. This is my third bike but the first one I've decided to do the maintenance on myself - mostly so I could feel confident that things were done to my satisfaction, but also to save money. I found there was a learning curve: the first time I did the inspection it took me most of a day, and I didn't change any shims. Second time I changed 7 shims, and it took most of the day again, but that included going to the dealer and getting new shims, and it was the first time I'd ever taken cams out so I took my time. I bet if you know what you're doing it'll take half a day, and even less for a proper mechanic who would have the shims there ready to hand.
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post #12 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-30-2011, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
I had no problems checking and adjusting my valve clearances without removing cables from throttle bodies pulley, or from the throttle grip.
Invader, I was unsuccessful at wiggling the valve cover out of the frame without moving the throttle cables out of the way? If you have a simpler way of getting this done I would love to hear it. I'm pretty sure this won't be the last time I need to remove the valve cover. I am really dreading putting that cable stuff back together, especially at the handgrip.
Thanks,
OG
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post #13 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-30-2011, 07:13 AM
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It was pretty easy. I just swung them out of the way. You can open the clutch cable retainer clip on the valve cover. Valve cover is a bit tight to carefully pull it out to the left, no matter what you do, and throttle cables are not in the way at all. Valve cover gasket can be left on top of head.

Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
After a couple shim swaps and some fine thinning, all my valve clearances are now at 0.18 mm inlet, and 0.26 mm exhaust. Feeler gauge slips in more easily from the side of the lobes, and barely fits at those readings... I applied some high-heat anti-seize compound to the cleaned PAIR steel tubes to prevent further rust buildup. Make sure lifters, cams and journals are well pre-oiled, and that the spark plug/PAIR tube seals and valve cover gasket are well in place when reinstalling... I plastic spoon-fed it more oil on the lobes, journals, lifters, and also in the main camshaft cap openings.


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Originally Posted by invader View Post
You can get 7.48 mm diameter shims (as on Versys) in 0.025 mm increments (instead of only 0.050 mm increments) in 2.50 mm to 3.50 mm thicknesses.

Suzuki 2004-2005 RM-Z250 shims $8.47
Kawasaki 2006-2011 KX-250F shims $8.96
(Versys shims 0.050 mm increments $11.78)

Shim ------- Suzuki # ----- Kawasaki #

2.800mm - K9218-00179 - 92180-0179
2.825mm - K9218-00180 - 92180-0180
2.850mm - K9218-00181 - 92180-0181
2.875mm - K9218-00182 - 92180-0182
2.900mm - K9218-00183 - 92180-0183
2.925mm - K9218-00184 - 92180-0184
2.950mm - K9218-00185 - 92180-0185
2.975mm - K9218-00186 - 92180-0186
3.000mm - K9218-00187 - 92180-0187
3.025mm - K9218-00188 - 92180-0188
3.050mm - K9218-00189 - 92180-0189
3.075mm - K9218-00190 - 92180-0190
3.100mm - K9218-00191 - 92180-0191

You need a micrometer to measure your shims. You can get this 0-25 mm metric micrometer in padded wood case from WholeSale Tool Co. for $11.95 plus shipping: http://www.wttool.com/index/page/pro...eters+%28WT%29

I just thinned and switched some shims around, to set all my inlet valves' clearances at 0.18mm, and exhausts at 0.26mm. I used wet fine emery cloth on a flat wooden table to thin shims. They seem to be the same hardness all the way through. The shims are not subject to wear, sitting snuggly withing the valve retainers under the lifter.


Last edited by invader; 11-30-2011 at 07:27 AM.
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post #14 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-30-2011, 07:17 AM
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I donít know if thereís any difference on the prior years but on my 2010 there was no need to touch the throttle cables. The cover came right off & went back on easily.
.
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post #15 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-30-2011, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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Invader, thanks, wish I had procrastinated on removing cables and read a few more posts......
I'm gonna send you a PM on the R/R topic I got from Tony.
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post #16 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-30-2011, 09:52 AM
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By the way, removing and reinstalling throttle cables at the hand grip is not so hard, and it's good to clean inner tube and handlebar to grease it up properly once in a while.

Last edited by invader; 12-03-2011 at 12:51 AM.
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post #17 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-30-2011, 08:41 PM
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You do not have to remove the cables on an '08. Just release the clip that holds the cables to the valve cover. Just carefully work the cover off.

Cheers!

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post #18 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-14-2011, 11:39 AM
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I had previously said that you DO have to remove the lower throttle cable to get the valve cover off. I was working on my friend's Versys at the time, and was unable to get it out.

But Invader said you CAN get the cover out without disconnecting the cables.

This week, I was doing my own valves and decided to give it a go. Invader is right! You don't need to disconnect the cables. It's a little tricky, but by turning the lower cable away from the cover and working the cover this way and that, it will come out. The clutch cable clip interferes with the throttle cable, but you just have to keep at it until it comes free.

Thanks Invader for teaching an old dog a new trick!

Michael
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post #19 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-15-2011, 09:29 PM
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This is where I got my metric micrometer from. Includes padded pine wood case. Save 10% with coupon code "save10xmas11", valid through December 21st.

http://www.wttool.com/index/page/pro...eters+%28WT%29
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post #20 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-16-2011, 07:57 AM
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Hereís another option for a metric (and SAE) micrometer

I find the DIGITAL DISPLAY very helpful for my aging eyes
.
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