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post #121 of 461 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 12:25 AM
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What I took from that ADV thread was because of how efficient AC travels there is no benefit or gain for me to bypass the original AC wiring. This would solve worrying about any issues of a headlight energizing feed. If in fact the poster [Joel Weisman] is correct. I don't have the knowledge to disprove him or agree.

How I go about moving forward on this install is pivotal on if this is true or not.
I am trying to explain the simplest and most reliable install for you, I can tell you, the shortest path and the least connections is the most reliable. If I sold my bike and bought a second Versys, along with another Compufire regulator, I would wire it exactly as I said in post # 172. It would have cut my install time in half, plus I wouldn't have needed to worry if the heat sink touched the frame, as I am switching the ground through a relay, since I cut the mile long positive wire and spliced it into the harness, so only way to stop the .027 ma. drain was to switch the ground wire when the bike was parked.

FYI the wire from compufire is 150'C motor lead wire, superior to anything on the Versys, were possible do not shorten or substitute .

It is a lot easier to debug someone elses work, than to start from scratch. That is what is great about this forum.

If you are worried about ADV rider, like I said, I don't want to comment other than to say it doesn't apply to Compufire, it relates to shunt type regulators.

I considered making my own regulator, I am too busy to get involved with something I can buy off the shelf. If you have any doubt, just PM me.

Last edited by onewizard; 12-30-2012 at 02:23 PM.
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post #122 of 461 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 07:34 PM
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re: Stator failure

Hi there fellow Versysians..... firstly Happy New Year to you all.... I had a stator failure about 10 months ago.... no kinda warning than the starter working slower over a 2 week period - went for a 190 mile country ride (to the township where I grew up back in the early days) and when we stopped the first time all okay, 2nd okay, 3rd okay, then the 4th stop (in the actual township itself)a slight hiccup and then the 5th time no show... battery just died (actually at the Cemetary we stopped to look at - God's honour!) errrr no one around (midday and some 1.5 miles from the township - called Price on Yorke Penisula South Australia)

My friend Lidia, she rang the RAA to get a battery jump (told - needed to wait some 45mins) and just after the call a 4X4 came by (amazing!!! at that time of day on this isolated dirt road - maybe a good Movie plot here - lol) flagged him down and got a jump start and we headed straight back to Adelaide, pronto - bought a new battery ( battery that died in the bike then was orginal - 2008 model bike then with 22ks) and thought that was it - wrong! battery started to loose omfph after 5 days of going to work each day and then checked the system and found the stator was not producing. Bought a new Stator from the States (as it was cheaper by miles!!!) than getting one from Kawasaki ($480 my price, as daughter Sian works there!) and now all is well.... however what I have done now is fitted a voltage regulator (off eBay - being a led globe that runs through 3 colours - red @10V - orange@12V and green@13.5V showing the voltage output) and putting a switch on the dash I can ckeck on occassions where the output is at... worth all the effort. (I put a switch on the voltage indicator because it can get annoying with the colours changing when at idle to full running - if the photo comes out you can see the indicator down on the right side and the switch up on the top left side of the dash - the other switch is for the headlight and soon I'll be fitting a pair of driving lights too... also on the handle bars are 2 drink holders that you'll notice as I use a flip helmet and these work great!!!)

I took the orginal Stator to a local MC Sparky near where I live and he noted that 2 coils were burnt out and one of then was the actual starting coil - he could rebuild mine for $300 - but will do if this if the one from the States dies... he said it was just one of those things... only thing I noticed with the new Stator is that the headlight flairs when from idle to revs... used to it now but not at the time as I had now encured that before... well all the best agian.... thanks regards and Catchya Andreas


(foot note - I recharged up my orginal battery - thought I'd see how it goes - it's still in there today now @ 24.5ks)
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Last edited by Andreas56; 12-30-2012 at 07:37 PM.
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post #123 of 461 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 07:44 PM
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re: stator failure photos

Sorry - don't know why the photos didn't come through - so here I'll try again..
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post #124 of 461 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 07:58 PM
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Hi there fellow Versysians..... firstly Happy New Year to you all....
I took the orginal Stator to a local MC Sparky near where I live and he noted that 2 coils were burnt out and one of then was the actual starting coil - he could rebuild mine for $300 - but will do if this if the one from the States dies... he said it was just one of those things... only thing I noticed with the new Stator is that the headlight flairs when from idle to revs... used to it now but not at the time as I had now encured that before... well all the best agian.... thanks regards and Catchya Andreas


(foot note - I recharged up my orginal battery - thought I'd see how it goes - it's still in there today now @ 24.5ks)
Couple things, have you tested the regulator according to the manual? Also not clear about your headlight, shouldn't be any difference from idle to full RPM. It is possible this stator has a different turns ratio, that is higher current at lower voltage, so at idle you may be @ 12 volts or less, with OEM regulator this would be good in that the regulator would be shunting current much less often. I have a Heads up voltage monitor, extremely accurate.

As to rewinding, it has been posted here before, http://www.rmstator.com/Categories.a...08&filter=true

They also post on eBay, shipping will cost almost as much as the stator, but you still save about $100, and this is new.They also post regulators new and used for a lot less, also a connector kit. Too bad shipping to Australia is so much.

Comment about starting coil????????? From what I can remember, the stator has 3 X 6 coils = total of 18 coils, connected in a Y or star 3 phase configuration.

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post #125 of 461 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 07:28 AM
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Well I had a little bit of time to work on the bike yesterday. I installed the rewound stator, and filled the crankcase w/oil/filter.

I mounted the Compufire on the modified adapter plate that I made a few weeks back.

But here's the rub...........

I mounted it reversed 180 deg so the wires face outboard. This changed everthing. And considering that I'm bypassing the original wiring harness it made even more sense.

Now the 3 AC stator leads reach the R/R leads w/length to spare and instead of cramped access, all the connections are right there near the starter relay and main fuse. The're now out of the way of a moving shock and rear wheel w/the mud and water that would otherwise bombard the wires/connections.

Using a small battery charger as Wizzard suggested, I found the tap to the headlight relay in the
[now capped connector that used to join the stator leads to the OEM harness.
I ran a short extension from it, to the area where the AC wires will splice. I cut the Weatherpack connector off because a direct splice is better than a friction splice. Besides I have enough wire to be able to change these parts out w/o running out of length.

I had to go to the Inlaw's for pork n kraut New Year's dinner so the rest of the install w/have to wait till I get the chance to get back to it.

I feel pretty good about the install, and would not of w/o the coaching from onewizzard, Olegeezer, Invader, and others one this forum and others.
I thank you for your guidance.

When I get a chance I'll take some pics and post them.

Last edited by Mountain Man; 01-02-2013 at 07:32 AM.
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post #126 of 461 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 05:16 PM
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Now the 3 AC stator leads reach the R/R leads w/length to spare and instead of cramped access, all the connections are right there near the starter relay and main fuse. The're now out of the way of a moving shock and rear wheel w/the mud and water that would otherwise bombard the wires/connections.

Using a small battery charger as Wizzard suggested, I found the tap to the headlight relay in the
[now capped connector that used to join the stator leads to the OEM harness.
I ran a short extension from it, to the area where the AC wires will splice. I cut the Weatherpack connector
off because a direct splice is better than a friction splice. Besides I have enough wire to be able to change these parts out w/o running out of length.

I had to go to the Inlaw's for pork n kraut New Year's dinner so the rest of the install w/have to wait till I get the chance to get back to it.

I feel pretty good about the install, and would not of w/o the coaching from onewizzard, Olegeezer, Invader, and others one this forum and others.
I thank you for your guidance.

When I get a chance I'll take some pics and post them.
Not sure if I am understanding about cutting off the connector, but, if this is the one from the stator, and if you have a couple inches of wire on the connector, you could join all three together then run a single extension down to were you plan on splicing the stator wires, plug the other end back into the OEM harness, only one wire is active as far as the headlight goes, but the other two will go no where.

Like I said, it is a lot easier debugging someone elses work, excellent idea about turning the regulator, so the wire faces out? May need to wait for Pics.

As to splicing , to be honest, I would use Ideal wire nuts http://www.idealindustries.com/produ...on/twister.jsp, then tape them, this will allow a simple connection that is easily taken apart. If you are really concerned, first wrap all three with a light wrap of electrical tape, sticky side out, then take a small sandwich zip lock bag, pump a bit of silicone caulking into it , slide that over the joint , twist tie it, once cured you have a waterproof joint. To remove, take a utility knife, cut vertically, the whole assembly will come off ( electrical tape sticky out is to prevent silicone from sticking to wire connectors and wires)

Are you planning on using a relay?

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post #127 of 461 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 06:51 AM
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Hi there 'onewizard".... what my MC sparky said was the reason for the flairing was that in volume manufacturing when you by them from Internet sites etc.. what they use is a heavy guage wire to quickly make up the windings on each of the poles and it's cheaper to do and quicker to make hence the price to the customer... you'd think that the heavier guage is good - wrong! Carl said they use a much thinner guage copper wire so that they can get more windings on each of the poles (I think there are 5 or 6? around the unit) and when they soak them in the lacquer for a minium of 24 hours, it then creates a better soak and better quality product.... BETTA Bikes located here in Hackam (down south of the City of) Adelaide - South Australia and do most of the all Stator rewindings here in Australia for the Motorcycle dealerships for their customers... They have never had one ever fail or returned and guarantee them for the life of the bike! Carl said to me that if you think we Versysirians are kinda not happy.... they have done HEAPS from the Trium** Triples!!! (so their owners aren't too happy too!) they charge $300 to do up mine and if this one fails that I have now - I'll get it done by them.. just ashame I didn't know that they did them other than panicing and buying off the net because of the price my daughter quoted me..... thanks hope this helps somehow.... catchya.. Andreas
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post #128 of 461 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 07:30 PM
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Hi there 'onewizard".... what my MC sparky said was the reason for the flairing was that in volume manufacturing when you by them from Internet sites etc.. what they use is a heavy guage wire to quickly make up the windings on each of the poles and it's cheaper to do and quicker to make hence the price to the customer... you'd think that the heavier guage is good - wrong! Carl said they use a much thinner guage copper wire so that they can get more windings on each of the poles (I think there are 5 or 6? around the unit) and when they soak them in the lacquer for a minium of 24 hours, it then creates a better soak and better quality product.... BETTA Bikes located here in Hackam (down south of the City of) Adelaide - South Australia and do most of the all Stator rewindings here in Australia for the Motorcycle dealerships for their customers... They have never had one ever fail or returned and guarantee them for the life of the bike! Carl said to me that if you think we Versysirians are kinda not happy.... they have done HEAPS from the Trium** Triples!!! (so their owners aren't too happy too!) they charge $300 to do up mine and if this one fails that I have now - I'll get it done by them.. just ashame I didn't know that they did them other than panicing and buying off the net because of the price my daughter quoted me..... thanks hope this helps somehow.... catchya.. Andreas
First, unless you know for sure that Kawasaki made a mistake in the number of turns, you don't increase or decrease the turns.

Next, the heavier the gauge the less resistance and less voltage drop = lost energy. You can use different temperature ratings of magnet wire, the higher the temp usually means thicker insulation. I prefer class H (180'C), and heavy , which is the coating thickness( around .0015 to .003 of a inch).

The next thing I use to do was preheat the finished stator, this removes any moisture trapped in the laminations, insulation etc., most rewind shops won't do this because it thins the dip and also cause the solvent to evaporate.

The more professional rewind shops have a vacuum dip tank, and my preference would be a epoxy dip, keep in mind you want the thinnest coat for heat transfer,and strongest coat to prevent the magnet wire from vibrating and breaking down.

A couple things happen when you increase wire size, one , with exactly the same number of turns, the outside turns are going to be further from the core. Second, you reach a point were there isn't enough room to get all the turns onto the pole piece.

You mention smaller wire size, what can be done is wind with as a example a equivalent to a single 10 gauge , would be two 14 gauge wires ( which would be harder than a 14 gauge), several problems come up with this method, say you had 20 turns of the 10 gauge, using the 14 gauge you will have 40 wires, and since you have 20 additional wires, you have added the insulation thickness of the 20, the second problem is when winding two in hand, there is a increased risk of cross overs between turns ( potential spots for shorted turns)
I said it before, if time permits I may try and find out what the output voltage is AC , compared to the actual DC current load and DC voltage output voltage.


As to how long it soaks, isn't as important as how it is wound. I use to preheat for 1 hour at 200'F, then dip it and soak for 1 hour in epoxy varnish, take it out and let it drip for 10 minutes then bake it for I think 6 hours--------been a long time about 35 years, they have some really good magnet wire available now.

$300 , are they saying once they do it , that it will never fail?
Bottom line, were you live it costs almost as much to ship as it does to rewind, so local is good.
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post #129 of 461 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 10:53 PM
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Ok, the Install is finished. All three AC wires are spliced w/the headlight tap right here.

[IMG][/IMG]



Everything is shrink wrapped and sheathed in plastic conduit and zipped tied. There are no friction connectors anywhere on the install, just direct splicing.

The Positive wire is now equipped w/a sealed Mertir-pack style fuse holder that is loaded w/a 30 AMP fuse. You can see it on top of the battery. The one that came w/the Compufire was not as nice. It was not waterproof.

[IMG][/IMG]



The Neg wire is grounded on the other side of the sub frame ground location.




The original connector that connected to the original R/R is sealed off, pulled up into the cavity between the engine and air box and secured.

The 3 termanal connector that originally mated to the stator is cut off and 2 of the 3 wires are terminated w/these......



And the 3rd one is the headlight relay tap. It's extended and routed through a length of Hi temp vacuum line, and then it is covered w/plastic conduit. You can see it the center of the below pic.



Before I spliced any of the Stator leads I measured VAC at A-B, A-C, B-C. At 4000 RPM I measured just uround 48 VAC at each.

With everything completed I measured 14.37 VDC at the battery terminals at high idle. [apx 1500 RPM] I had no time to get a reading at low idle /operating temperature cause I didn't want to open my garage door to warm it up.

I'm happy w/that.

It's late so I'm done for tonight. Tomorrow I'll test for any parasitic draw and post up my findings. If I have any I'll prolly just fuse the ground as I mentioned.

BTW, what is a good "resting voltage" in a cold garage. I won't flinch to replace the battery if needed.
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post #130 of 461 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 05:12 PM
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Ok, the Install is finished. All three AC wires are spliced w/the headlight tap right here.

[IMG][/IMG]



Everything is shrink wrapped and sheathed in plastic conduit and zipped tied. There are no friction connectors anywhere on the install, just direct splicing.

The Positive wire is now equipped w/a sealed Mertir-pack style fuse holder that is loaded w/a 30 AMP fuse. You can see it on top of the battery. The one that came w/the Compufire was not as nice. It was not waterproof.

[IMG][/IMG]



The Neg wire is grounded on the other side of the sub frame ground location.




The original connector that connected to the original R/R is sealed off, pulled up into the cavity between the engine and air box and secured.

The 3 termanal connector that originally mated to the stator is cut off and 2 of the 3 wires are terminated w/these......



And the 3rd one is the headlight relay tap. It's extended and routed through a length of Hi temp vacuum line, and then it is covered w/plastic conduit. You can see it the center of the below pic.



Before I spliced any of the Stator leads I measured VAC at A-B, A-C, B-C. At 4000 RPM I measured just uround 48 VAC at each.

With everything completed I measured 14.37 VDC at the battery terminals at high idle. [apx 1500 RPM] I had no time to get a reading at low idle /operating temperature cause I didn't want to open my garage door to warm it up.

I'm happy w/that.

It's late so I'm done for tonight. Tomorrow I'll test for any parasitic draw and post up my findings. If I have any I'll prolly just fuse the ground as I mentioned.

BTW, what is a good "resting voltage" in a cold garage. I won't flinch to replace the battery if needed.
First let me say a awesome write up, if you go towards the foot brake side of your bike, just on the other side of your wire strippers, you will find the frame ground, ECU, tail light signal light etc. is connected at this point.

If you remove your ground and put your ammeter in series, you should get around 24 milliamp, if you check at the battery positive it will be around 27 milliamp ( ECU draws around 1 to 3 milliamp, varying over time) at this rate your 10 amp hour battery will be half dead in 7 days or totally dead in 15 days.

My garage is close to 5'C now, battery is going on 6 years, I charge it every two months, for six hours, in the winter, right now it measures 12.25 VDC, been almost a month since last charge ( I have a relay in series with regulator ground).

Your install looks awesome
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post #131 of 461 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 06:47 PM
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QUOTE=onewizard;225340]First let me say a awesome write up, if you go towards the foot brake side of your bike, just on the other side of your wire strippers, you will find the frame ground, ECU, tail light signal light etc. is connected at this point.
Yes, Every year I take that one apart and scuff it and the steel it contacts w/emery cloth to keep good ground flow. I put it on the opposite side to balance out the universe.



Quote:
If you remove your ground and put your ammeter in series, you should get around 24 milliamp, if you check at the battery positive it will be around 27 milliamp ( ECU draws around 1 to 3 milliamp, varying over time) at this rate your 10 amp hour battery will be half dead in 7 days or totally dead in 15 days.
I just went down and measured the parasitic draw.

1st w/the R/R fuse out..........



And now w/the fuse in........



As soon as touch the neg batt terminal and the main ground cable w/the meter probes I hear something in the font of the bike energize and the meter spikes to 64.00 MA and then w/in a second it settles to these 2 above readings.


Quote:
My garage is close to 5'C now, battery is going on 6 years, I charge it every two months, for six hours, in the winter, right now it measures 12.25 VDC, been almost a month since last charge ( I have a relay in series with regulator ground).

Since I'm going the low tech option for now, and addressing the draw issue w/just pulling the fuse, would it be OK just to control it w/the R/R positive fuse that's already installed?

I can't see a need to put a fuse on the R/R ground if I'm doing the same thing upstream. [so to speak]


Quote:
Your install looks awesome


It was your guidance that contributed to the success, and I'm thankful for your help.



Now to evaluate the condition of my battery.

The Battery tender has been on since I left it last night. I removed it a few minutes ago and I performed a load test on it w/this [My garage toaster]and it measured somewhere between 9 1/2-10 volts after a 15 second dwell.

But that was might be kinda inconclusive since it was fresh off the charger. Now I'll have to bring it back up and then rest it again to get a more accurate test at a "rested voltage" I'll post up my readings.
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post #132 of 461 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 08:38 PM
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Yes, Every year I take that one apart and scuff it and the steel it contacts w/emery cloth to keep good ground flow. I put it on the opposite side to balance out the universe.





I just went down and measured the parasitic draw.

1st w/the R/R fuse out..........



And now w/the fuse in........



As soon as touch the neg batt terminal and the main ground cable w/the meter probes I hear something in the font of the bike energize and the meter spikes to 64.00 MA and then w/in a second it settles to these 2 above readings.





Since I'm going the low tech option for now, and addressing the draw issue w/just pulling the fuse, would it be OK just to control it w/the R/R positive fuse that's already installed?

I can't see a need to put a fuse on the R/R ground if I'm doing the same thing upstream. [so to speak]






It was your guidance that contributed to the success, and I'm thankful for your help.



Now to evaluate the condition of my battery.

The Battery tender has been on since I left it last night. I removed it a few minutes ago and I performed a load test on it w/this [My garage toaster]and it measured somewhere between 9 1/2-10 volts after a 15 second dwell.

But that was might be kinda inconclusive since it was fresh off the charger. Now I'll have to bring it back up and then rest it again to get a more accurate test at a "rested voltage" I'll post up my readings.
I am kind of glad that I never ever got around to taking pictures of my install, because after my install and all the changes that came later, and as a result of that, coaching your install has produced a far easier and superior install. I really like the two decimal place Greenlee, although all my stuff is either Fluke, Tektronixs, or Simpson.

Pulling the 30 amp solution is the simple fix, I don't have that option because I tied my positive into the OEM harness, once I discovered the problem, I didn't feel like taking everything apart and extending the positive wire ( cut about 2 feet off :<( )

I need to do some digging on load testing, have a post somewhere here. The manual gives a multiplier for your amp hour rating as to load test current, my load tester is a simple one, so I had to modify the test by changing the test time. As soon as I find it I will link or post.

What is your "normal" battery discharge rate?? 3X amp hour rating is 3 x 10 = 30 amp @ 15 seconds, take your actual current draw of load tester and divide that by the 30 amp, take this number and divide it into 15 seconds, this will give you the test time for your load tester.


My plan is to isolate my stator output and use fixed 75 to 100 watt resistors @ about 4 to 6 ohm, measure, the AC voltage @ idle and ac current, measure AC voltage and current@ 4000 to 5000 rpm . The purpose of this is to see how close Kawasaki was on the turns ratio. To explain, the stator and rotor have a total magnetic flux handling available, we will say 340 VA or watts. V is volts A amps, as a example say the output was 340 volts = 1 amp, that would mean the regulator would need to drop more than 90% of the voltage output and have a current limit of 1 amp.The ideal output voltage is that that just maintains the loads @ idle , one option I am looking at is changing the winding to a delta connected stator, which would involve more turns @ a smaller gauge wire, output voltage between idle and 5000 RPM would be much closer than the OEM Y connection.

Again, thanks for the pictures and a very descriptive write up.

Last edited by onewizard; 01-04-2013 at 09:24 PM.
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post #133 of 461 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 09:32 PM
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I am kind of glad that I never ever got around to taking pictures of my install, because after my install and all the changes that came later, and as a result of that, coaching your install has produced a far easier and superior install. I really like the two decimal place Greenlee, although all my stuff is either Fluke, Tektronixs, or Simpson.
I had an advantage of my stator came back w/very long wires extending from the rubber case grommet. I think that's what started the idea of bypassing the existing harness. The next guy after, and so on and so on will each benefit from those before. I've always been mechanically inclined but, w/o your electrical experience this would of been uneasy for me.

I initially wanted the Fluke, but became a little bashful after finding out the price. I'm hoping this meter will suffice for my usage. It cost me a little under $40.


Quote:
Pulling the 30 amp solution is the simple fix, I don't have that option because I tied my positive into the OEM harness, once I discovered the problem, I didn't feel like taking everything apart and extending the positive wire ( cut about 2 feet off :<( )
Don't rule out that I won't follow your lead and add a relay later. Time will tell. I have a spare hi amp relay from an old set of PIAA fog lights.
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post #134 of 461 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 09:49 PM
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Quote from Onewizard......One other thing, on a deeply discharged battery, starting the bike and riding it is a sure way to finish off the battery, the alternator doesn't limit the charge current , a proper battery tender or motorcycle charger limits the current to about 1 amp.
Funny you should mention that. When my stator fried I was about an 1 1/2 hrs from home in lower 20'sF and it was dark. I changed out of my heated gear and turned of my heated grips. I put on my back up fleece jacket and pants, and wool socks and winter gloves

A Cop gave me a jump, and off I went. I watched my headlight get dimmer and dimmer. Eventually my inst panel went out, but the bike kept on running all the way to my garage. After i turned it off, for fun I hit the starter button. It didn't even have enough juice to energize the starter relay.
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post #135 of 461 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 06:44 PM
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After a full day of work I came home and measured my "rested voltage" on my battery. 13.00 VDC. It's in the mid 40's F in my garage.

I performed a Load Test and it did not drop below 12.6 VDC .

So I'm pretty sure my one year old AGM battery survived the charging system incident.
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post #136 of 461 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 10:53 PM
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new to the forum and loving the great info...enjoyed reading this 10pg thread; anybody having headlight relay issues with stator and R/R issues? I've replaced the stator but not the R/R yet. Headlight works fine until I'm at 4-5K rpm for 20 minutes then the relay pops. Mine is a 2008 with 30,000 miles
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post #137 of 461 (permalink) Old 01-10-2013, 06:53 AM
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When you say it "pops", does this mean it outright fails, or just de-energizes?
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post #138 of 461 (permalink) Old 01-10-2013, 07:02 AM
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new to the forum and loving the great info...enjoyed reading this 10pg thread; anybody having headlight relay issues with stator and R/R issues? I've replaced the stator but not the R/R yet. Headlight works fine until I'm at 4-5K rpm for 20 minutes then the relay pops. Mine is a 2008 with 30,000 miles
'Bad regulator ate my headlights.....'

Intermittent Headlamp Problem


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post #139 of 461 (permalink) Old 01-10-2013, 10:20 AM
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When you say it "pops", does this mean it outright fails, or just de-energizes?
outright fails and I have to replace the relay box; not sure I know what de-energizes looks like
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post #140 of 461 (permalink) Old 01-10-2013, 08:10 PM
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outright fails and I have to replace the relay box; not sure I know what de-energizes looks like
Add a little insight here. The headlight relay has two control sources in parallel, one source is the stator AC one phase, the second comes from the power output, through a diode to the relay coil. Once the stator produces enough AC equal to around 10 volts,(this is rectified through a single diode) the relay pulls in, once this relay pulls in and the contacts close, a second circuit with a blocking diode,connected to the output side of the relay contact and also connected to the coil. This circuit is to latch or lock in your headlight relay, one downfall to this circuit is if your regulator craps out , and that ac 1 phase circuit is allowed to run free, it is possible to have 48 VDC or higher on your headlight relay, this relay will burn out if the diode doesn't fail first.
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