Burnt Stator/ Stator Testing - Page 3 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #41 of 310 (permalink) Old 12-01-2011, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
invader, thanks for all the info you are sharing. Is anyone using the compu-fire R/R?

The versys/650R have a pretty strong record for reliability but i guess this is good preventative maintenance for those of us that travel in remote areas.
You mean on a Versys? Not that I know of yet... olegeezer and I may be the first ones, unless someone else beats me to it by April when our season starts.

Versys/ER6/650R do have a great reliability record. Stators continuously operating at maximum load and output through the standard shunt R/R are common throughout the motorcycle industry... Compu-Fire's series R/R reduces much strain and heat from stator (which is known to cook itself out over time), improving its dependability and life expectancy. The engine benefits as well from less power used to generate required electrical power only, and from a cooler operating temperature which can be a concern when riding in very hot environments.
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post #42 of 310 (permalink) Old 12-04-2011, 08:05 PM
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You mean on a Versys? Not that I know of yet... olegeezer and I may be the first ones, unless someone else beats me to it by April when our season starts.

Versys/ER6/650R do have a great reliability record. Stators continuously operating at maximum load and output through the standard shunt R/R are common throughout the motorcycle industry... Compu-Fire's series R/R reduces much strain and heat from stator (which is known to cook itself out over time), improving its dependability and life expectancy. The engine benefits as well from less power used to generate required electrical power only, and from a cooler operating temperature which can be a concern when riding in very hot environments.
Just curious if you found a shipping to Canada friendly distributor?
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post #43 of 310 (permalink) Old 12-04-2011, 11:13 PM
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Lowest price for Compu-Fire 55402 R/R is now $171.99 from Debrix Cycles ($25.85 USPS shipping to Ontario).


http://www.usmotoman.com/product/vol...ystem/-1_17037 (International shipping)

http://www.amazon.com/Compu-Fire-Reg...3061499&sr=1-1 (International shipping $174.01)
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post #44 of 310 (permalink) Old 12-05-2011, 09:45 AM
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The 3 black stator output wires connect to Compu-Fire's 3 center wires. Your black with yellow tracer wire is the negative, and white with blue tracer wire is your positive. The brown trigger wire (battery positive output from ignition switch) is left unconnected. Original R/R senses voltage off the brown wire, while the Compu-Fire senses voltage internally.

I'll just solder my wires directly, but you could always add a connector.
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post #45 of 310 (permalink) Old 12-11-2011, 09:21 PM
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I ordered the compu fire 55402 today. Due to my limited electrical skills, I may be asking for install advice this week. Thanks in advance for your cooperation.
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post #46 of 310 (permalink) Old 12-17-2011, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
The 3 black stator output wires connect to Compu-Fire's 3 center wires. Your black with yellow tracer wire is the negative, and white with blue tracer wire is your positive. The brown trigger wire (battery positive output from ignition switch) is left unconnected. Original R/R senses voltage off the brown wire, while the Compu-Fire senses voltage internally.

I'll just solder my wires directly, but you could always add a connector.

http://www.debrix.com/Harley-Connect...nals-s/437.htm
Anyone know what the spec is, brand, part # etc for the connector from the Compu fire 55402? I think Eastern Beaver sells a connector lead from the R/R that you can specify the end that connects to the stator wires. For about $15 you could use the OEM connector on the stator end. (I think the OEM connector is a Yazaki 3P250 female connector. )This would make the install a little easier. Eastern Beaver sells the connector with what I think is a MetriPack 280 female connector on the R/R end. I could find little on the specific specs of the 55402.
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post #47 of 310 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 01:59 PM
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compufire ride/test

I took a ride today maybe 50 miles, stopped for lunch and then back home. The outside temp was 56F when I got back. My infrared temp gun said the stator housing was 174F and the compufire R/R was 114F. Voltage on the battery ended at 12.8v with the engine off. I used the heated vest, grips and flicked the high beams on and off. With all that on, the voltage at my dash board meter dropped from 13.9v to 13.0v.
My OEM R/R test was with 58F outside, the stator housing was 191F.
So it appears to run cooler based on these readings. I guess now time will only tell.
When I stopped for lunch and back home the housing felt as hot as before the R/R change so I guess we should use a meter to take some of the guess work out of it.
I'm getting ready for a long ride, leave in a week or so and it will get plenty of testing. If I have any problems with the charging system I shall let you all know. A special thanks to Invader and all the others for all the farkling advice, it was very helpful. Really I'm sick of farkling and just want to ride!!
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post #48 of 310 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olegeezer View Post
My infrared temp gun said the stator housing was 174F and the compufire R/R was 114F.

My OEM R/R test was with 58F outside, the stator housing was 191F.
So it appears to run cooler based on these readings.
olegeezer,

Thanks for this information. Would it be too much to ask for you to post all of the parts that you needed to accomplish the installation and a brief description of the steps? I know that I can wring it out of your previous posts on this thread and one other (if I remember correctly), but it would really help me (and perhaps others) if the information were in one place.

I really go for these geekier farkles. My '08 happily sports a Thermo-Bob. I wonder if going to a new R/R will spark some flame fests like the Thermo-Bob once did...

I will seriously consider installing one of these R/R this spring. First I need to inspect my valves (and most likely replace shims), but it has been really cold (with plenty of snow on the ground) until the last couple of days. I hope to get to that soon. Then I will be wondering about my R/R or getting a spare stator...
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post #49 of 310 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 06:05 PM
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olegeezer,

Thanks for this information. Would it be too much to ask for you to post all of the parts that you needed to accomplish the installation and a brief description of the steps?
The wiring is simple as you may know. The compufire has 5 leads. The 3 center leads connect to the 3 stator leads coming from your alternator. The two outside leads are the power (+) and gound (-). Your wiring harness has a 6 pin connector that connects to the OEM R/R. The 3 black wires are from your stator, the white/blue is the power lead to the battery, the yellow black is the ground. The sixth wire from the harness is not needed and I just terminated it (insulated the end). The compufire comes with a Delph/Packard weatherpack 3 lead connector (female pins) attached to the 3 stator leads. I was also supplied the male half of the connector and pins. The pins must be crimped and/or soldered to your stator leads and inserted into the Delphi connector. I crimped as best I could and soldered them for good measure. I think it would be easier to just solder all the wires together or use
some other crimp on connector. I used two separate Sta-Kon connectors for the +/- power leads and sealed them with shrink wrap. I think the power leads from the Compufire are 10 gauge wire. I didn't need the fuse and holder that came with the unit. Power out from the compufire goes to the original main fuse block (30 amp).
The mounting holes for the compufire don't match the holes in the bike mounting plate. I made a spacer out of 1/8" aluminum stock and managed to screw the end that didn't line up to the bike bracket. Really all you need is the wire connectors (whatever you choose) and a little (lot for me ) time and patience. My finished job is not nearly as neat and pretty as the OEM job, which is understandable if you knew me. I really hated to cut that nice 6 pin connector off the wiring harness but couldn't cipher a way to avoid it. I hope this helps, if not, shoot more questions.
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post #50 of 310 (permalink) Old 03-01-2012, 10:04 AM
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post #51 of 310 (permalink) Old 04-08-2012, 03:08 PM
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It would appear this is the cheapest place for Canada shipping, they offer USPS, will order when I get back from holidays!
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post #52 of 310 (permalink) Old 04-08-2012, 08:36 PM
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It would appear this is the cheapest place for Canada shipping, they offer USPS, will order when I get back from holidays!


Yeah, I paid $169.20 plus $20.00 USPS shipping. It should be here soon.
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post #53 of 310 (permalink) Old 05-08-2012, 10:20 PM
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Well my regulator ( compu fire 55402) arrived today, came with a connector on the regulator, a connector body and fuse holder and fuse. However no pins for the other half of the connector, anyone know what the specs are for these pins?
I found the pins for the Delphi/Packard connectors at NAPA auto parts.
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post #54 of 310 (permalink) Old 05-11-2012, 12:10 PM
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I found the pins for the Delphi/Packard connectors at NAPA auto parts.
Thanks
I took the regulator in and sure enough they had the pins and weatherproof boots, gave me 1 extra of each, for a grand total of $5.
I will install this weekend and post what I came up with.
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post #55 of 310 (permalink) Old 05-11-2012, 10:53 PM
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Pretty good info over at ADVrider http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...76645&page=319
about a stator that was done by Custom Rewind in Alabama.
Thanks for the info, I am so interested that I registered on ADVrider, however I am not able to post at this time, probably a ADMIN delay.
In any case I would like to know if he has any winding information on the Custom Rewind stator, looking at it I can tell you it was machine wound. I am curious if they increased the wire size and also changed the turns per pole. IMO that stator could take a left side case crash and still work.

I am hoping to post on their site, for now thanks for the info
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post #56 of 310 (permalink) Old 05-12-2012, 06:40 AM
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Thanks for the info, I am so interested that I registered on ADVrider, however I am not able to post at this time, probably a ADMIN delay.
In any case I would like to know if he has any winding information on the Custom Rewind stator, looking at it I can tell you it was machine wound. I am curious if they increased the wire size and also changed the turns per pole. IMO that stator could take a left side case crash and still work.

I am hoping to post on their site, for now thanks for the info
I would say call Custom Rewind Monday mornin'. From the posters remarks, on ADVrider, the guy is accessible and pretty personable.

I'm going to look into getting one for my V so I can power heated grips and heated suit.
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post #57 of 310 (permalink) Old 05-13-2012, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Mt. Versuvius View Post
There's already enough alternator output to power that stuff, no need to replace the stator (unless it's pooched, of course).
I think there is enough to run the grips and a vest (along with my GPS and some auxillary lighting), but not a suit. I'm also a big believer in overkill. I like parts that work at less than 75% of capacity. They tend to last a really long time when they aren't working at near 100%.
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post #58 of 310 (permalink) Old 05-13-2012, 07:59 AM
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With the shunt-type reg/rec, the alternator is working at 100% all the time anyway, but maybe you're planning on changing the RR too.
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post #59 of 310 (permalink) Old 05-13-2012, 10:41 PM
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Yeah, probably to a MOSFET design.
:::::

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Originally Posted by invader View Post
The MOSFET term gets thrown around a lot, in an imprecise way that may confuse a lot of people.

When sorting through all of this information, it's important to realize that the word MOSFET is not really that helpful in describing the regulator that the merchant is selling.

The term "MOSFET" describes a particular type of semiconductor -- a generic Metal-Oxide-Semiconductor Field-Effect Transistor. This kind of generic transistor can be found in all sorts of devices, including shunt regulators, series regulators, and switching regulators. From a practical standpoint, when a supplier is marketing their Vreg to you using the term MOSFET, their pitch doesn't really give you any useful information. You'd probably be best of ignoring the word MOSFET and looking at other details.

When sorting through all of this information, try to recognize the deceptive marketing practices of some of the merchants for what they are; Some suppliers are leveraging the word "MOSFET" to try to exploit the confusion that it will cause for many people.

"MOSFET" sounds fancy, and the expectation of some merchants is that using this term will make some potential customers think that their regulator is something more special than it really is. This is particularly true of Shindengen, who uses the term to try to put lipstick on that pig that is their shunt regulator. They try to use the word "MOSFET" to blur the distinction in the mind of the customer between their shunt regulator and a true series regulator, or a switching regulator.

Don't be fooled when a manufacturer hypes the word "MOSFET" in describing their shunt regulator -- they're hoping that someone who doesn't know any better will confuse their shunt regulator with a more desirable, more electronically sophisticated series regulator and buy their product.

You probably already realize from all of the posts on this forum that you want to avoid a shunt regulator at all costs, and buy a true series regulator. Be careful so that some merchants' don't pull the wool over your eyes when they tell you that their vreg uses MOSFET. What you really want to know is whether the design you're looking at is a shunt, series, or switching regulator.
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post #60 of 310 (permalink) Old 05-15-2012, 02:15 PM
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What invader was trying to point out was that a shunt-type MOSFET R/R makes little difference (it is believed) to the stator failures occurring on Versi. It is not whether the R/R is MOSFET or not, rather whether it is shunt-type or series that makes a difference. If you believe otherwise, it would be helpful if you would quote the important aspects of the post you refer to on another site and then we can discuss that.
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