Some electrical problems - Page 3 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
Technical Discussion Topics related to Technical Issues

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post #41 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 02:00 AM Thread Starter
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Mine looks different, the hole is round, not square like the one in the ebay ad. Maybe thats the european model.
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post #42 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 03:10 AM Thread Starter
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Yesterday I sat down by my workbench and started to set up a test rig to start proper testing of the faulty LCD-display.
So, just to check if my setup was OK, I did the first test once again, and to my big surprise the LCD was OK.
As weirdly as it stopped working, it started working again.

Next step will be to spray some electronic cleaner on both ends of the connections and assemble it again.

This is really, really odd. Only thing I can think of, since I have been pushing test pins into the meter unit connector, is that that cleaned away some oxidation...
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post #43 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 09:24 AM
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Scotch Brite Pad

Here is a bit of advice, electronic spray is almost useless, largely comes into play when water is involved. This may come as a surprise, but take a small piece of red or green scotch brite pad, needle nose pliers, do 2 or 3 swipes over the contacts, most are silver plated, you only want to remove the oxide, as to the electronic spray, it would be useful in spraying after the scotch brite application, to remove any fine debris left behind. Then reassemble .
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post #44 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017, 02:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice, but there are no way I can reach the contacts using that method, they´re just to small.
I must figure out another way to clean them.
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post #45 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017, 09:00 AM
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If You can see them you can clean them

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Originally Posted by kali68 View Post
Thanks for the advice, but there are no way I can reach the contacts using that method, they´re just to small.
I must figure out another way to clean them.
I have cleaned IC chip sets , one was my old Altek 820 calibrator, too many heat cool cycles in the service truck, worth over $2000, wouldn't turn on, I discovered putting into the oven at 150'F for 10 minutes and it would turn on, eventually it wouldn't work at all. I pulled the main chip set, as like your instrumentation, it was all surface mount, I have miniature needle nose, cut a pad down and I will say drew it across / between the contacts ( forced ).Two years later it is working fine, as I sold it and recovered my investment, that one was even a surprise to me! Another way you can do it is create fines from the pad and deposit on the female socket, put the male socket into and out of a couple times, then spray both with your contact cleaner. This method will work provided you use a spray or compressed air to remove the fines, as the scotch brite is non conductive, anything left physically on the contact will be a insulator.

Last edited by onewizard; 01-12-2017 at 09:04 AM.
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post #46 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-17-2017, 03:48 AM Thread Starter
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I´ve done some more testing and the display sporadically works fine, so I´m pointing towards one of the first things mentioned in this thread; battery is dying...
Will order a new one and see what happens

Last edited by kali68; 01-17-2017 at 04:14 AM. Reason: Misspelling
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post #47 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-17-2017, 10:30 AM
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Battery? / Electronics 101

Well that might be a first. How things are designed to work, your cell phone typically is 3.6 VDC, electronic low battery would be around 2.6 VDC, your cell phone has a voltage regulator that maintains a voltage to say 2.8 VDC, once it reaches 2.6 a alarm low battery shutting down would occur, this is to protect the circuitry . So typically the electronic control ECU and gauges should function down to 6VDC , , relays will start dropping out around 6.5 to 8.0 VDC, your stick coil and fuel pump stop producing enough spark / fuel at about 8 to 8.5 VDC, so long before your display stops working due to low voltage , your ECU relay would have dropped out and your motor would have stopped due to lack of fuel / ignition.

So in my opinion prepare to be disappointed if replacing the battery doesn't do it. The proper way is to test the battery with a reliable volt meter, which I think we discussed previously.Personally I would pull the ECU and check / clean both sockets , as I think you have a bad connection/ground someplace.
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post #48 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 05:41 AM Thread Starter
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The behaviour of the LCD is seen when the LCD is disconnected from the bike as well, at that point there shouldn´t be any bad connection/grounding elsewhere than in the unit itself.
So I´ll try to clean the connections and see if it becomes more stable.
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post #49 of 49 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kali68 View Post
I´ve done some more testing and the display sporadically works fine, so I´m pointing towards one of the first things mentioned in this thread; battery is dying...
Will order a new one and see what happens
Fully charge your battery first using your CTEK charger. Disconnect one of the battery terminals and measure the voltage across the battery terminals. If it is about 12.65 Volts - it is 100% charged and in good shape. If it is 12.45 Volts it is about 75% charged, and if it is 12.25 V then it is 50% charged.

If the battery is measuring much less than 100% charged, then it has permanently lost capacity and you should think about replacing it.
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charger problem, ctek, no tacho, panel dead

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