You may have solved the problem
- Crimping is good on grounds and no signs of corrosion. Also, thanks again for taking the time to help me out =)
Couple things that you should notice after keying on, first 3 seconds
==the fuel pump should run, the F1 light should be on
, the sub-throttle servos should move**I have copied out of section 3 DFI, remote possibility is the ECU relay, however you need to prove the ECU is being powered, before I dig into that I need to know that what I just described isn't happening--much of section 3 refers back to replacing the ECU after certain test failures, I like to prove that is the case.
Once I hear back we will continue**so below is what I copied and pasted:
The DFI used on the 650R features a FI light on the Speedometer face. This light has three modes of operation; User Mode, Diagnostic Mode 1, Diagnostic Mode 2.
At KEY ON
the ECU completes a self test and then checks sensors and actuators. During this time the FI light will be lit
. While the FI light is ON you will hear the fuel pump run and the sub-throttle servos move.
The tachometer needle swings full scale and back. At the end of the testing (about 3 seconds)
, the oil pressure light will come on indicating a normal KEY ON, ENGINE OFF event.
If the ECU detects any actuator feedback or sensor input OUT OF RANGE, the FI light will be set ON. It should be noted that the FI light can be set to a false ON state by radio interference, though in practice it would take a very strong local signal to do so. The ECU continues to monitor all sensors as long as the key is ON. If any signal is detected as OUT OF RANGE, the FI light is set ON. The FI light will remain lit as long as the defect is present.
One of two things will happen when the FI light is ON; either the ECU will go into LIMP mode or the ECU will prevent fuel injection, ignition, and/or starter circuit operation until the fault is cleared. The severity of the fault will determine which of the two will happen. For instance, if the ECU cannot detect crank position, it will prevent engine operation altogether. On the other hand, if the ECU cannot determine Intake Air Temperature, it will initiate LIMP mode (Kawasaki calls it FAIL-SAFE mode), assume an IAT temperature of 40C (104F), and allow the engine to operate at that parameter.
The FI light will go OFF after repair or if the sensor comes back into range for any reason. The ECU will resume normal operation. However, the event is memorized.
The FI light will blink continuously to indicate the vehicle-down sensor is active. When detected, the ECU will shut-off the fuel pump, fuel injectors, starter and ignition. The FI light will remain flashing and the motorcycle will not start until the vehicle-down sensor goes inactive and the ECU is reset by cycling the key OFF.
ON at KEY ON, then OFF OFF = normal operation ON = fault detected BLINK = vehicle down
DIAGNOSTIC MODE 1
Under the seat, along the right sub-frame rail is an orange/black wire with a bullet connector
. This is the self-diagnosis terminal. In order to read out the CURRENT Service Codes, ground that wire with the KEY ON. The FI light will begin to flash codes. There will be a 5 second delay and then the codes begin. The first flash is always a LONG (1 sec) followed by either LONG or SHORT (0.5 sec) flashes. LONG flashes indicate TENS and short flashes ONES. One LONG followed by two SHORT = 12. Two LONG, one SHORT = 21. Three LONG, two short = 32, etc. There is an interval of 1.5 seconds between TENS and ONES. There is a 3 second interval between codes.