Where is the master link on oem chain on 2013 V 650 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-30-2016, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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Where is the master link on oem chain on 2013 V 650

Firstly, if this has been asked before I apologize...

I have 2013 V650 and I am about to change the chain and sprockets but being a newbie at this, I have to ask...

how do you know which is the master link on the oem chain? Every other link says DID and 520Vp2. I do not have a grinder so I have to break it with a chain breaking tool.

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-30-2016, 08:16 AM
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Pay close attention to the pins on the chain.
There should a link where the color & or shape is different.
That is the one to play with.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-30-2016, 10:15 AM
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Actually, if you are using a chain tool to break the chain, I think you're not supposed to break the master with it, unless you have a grinder to grind it down first. The regular links should break with a chain tool by pushing out the pins, assuming it's a good one. Check your directions that came with it, pretty sure that's what I recall...
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-30-2016, 10:56 AM
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The master link is the one with the clip on the outside. If your chain doesn't have a master link just push out any two pins on the same link. If your new chain doesn't have a master link, one continuous loop, you will have to drop the swingarm. When installing a chain with a master link be sure to install the clip with the open end facing rearward when on the upper run. If this is confusing to you get some hands on help or look at a bike with a properly installed chain. There are some good instructional vids on YouTube. You will most likely need a power impact tool to get the counter sprocket nut loose.

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-30-2016, 12:52 PM
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Actually, if you are using a chain tool to break the chain, I think you're not supposed to break the master with it, unless you have a grinder to grind it down first. The regular links should break with a chain tool by pushing out the pins, assuming it's a good one. Check your directions that came with it, pretty sure that's what I recall...
A chain-breaker tool should have enough leverage to push ANY pin out. When I've used mine to 'break' a chain, I've NEVER looked for any particular link - I just hook it up 'wherever' and start turning wrenches, and it's ALWAYS worked.

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-30-2016, 01:02 PM
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I've changed many chains, and I'd never recommend a master link, total not necessary and safer without them.

Prior to removing the chain, loosen the bolt on the counter shaft sprocket and the bolts on the rear sprocket. I use a long torque wrench for the counter shaft sprocket bolt, you'll need the leverage. It it were mine, I'd also replace the rear sprocket bolts/nuts, but I'm anal retentive that way and feel it's good insurance.

Since you're replacing the chain, use the chain breaker anywhere on the old chain to get the pin out and pull the chain. It's actually not that difficult.

When installing the new chain, move the chain adjusters in from where the are to allow rearward adjustment when the new chain "stretches". Most chains come in standard lengths so you may have to cut a few links out.

My chain breaker tool came with a pin setter for riveting a new link, follow the instructions, if it came with it. You want to be careful to spread the end of the pin to slightly to mushroom around the outer plate but not so much that the end starts to split.

Good luck!
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-30-2016, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
A chain-breaker tool should have enough leverage to push ANY pin out. When I've used mine to 'break' a chain, I've NEVER looked for any particular link - I just hook it up 'wherever' and start turning wrenches, and it's ALWAYS worked.
Ok, whatev. Just quoting from the instructions that came with mine...

And whomever was talking about clips...the Versys came with a riveted master link...
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-30-2016, 11:35 PM
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Ok, whatev. Just quoting from the instructions that came with mine...

And whomever was talking about clips...the Versys came with a riveted master link...
This is true which makes looking for the master link to remove the chain a moot point. It can be broken at any link.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-31-2016, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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chain breaker tool broke instead!

So I attempted to break the chain this morning using a chain breaker tool I bought from an ebay vendor... did not put a dent on the pin, but the tool broke instead.

I am now thinking of just grinding the link with an angle grinder from Harbor Freight. Would this be less painful? Anyone who's done this, please chime in. I need all the help I can get.

Or should I invest on a DID breaker/rivetting tool. Pricey... worth it? Saw a demo on youtube, no grinding of the pins, just use the tool to break the chain.

Thanks again.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-31-2016, 11:04 AM
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Bummer about the chain breaker tool!

The old chain will be trashed, so break it in whatever way is easiest. No need to preserve it. Angle grinder. Dremel. etc.

I'm sure others will argue for a new continuous chain, rather than a clipped master link chain, but I never had a problem with the latter on my Bandit 1200 (and I think it makes a *little* more torque than the Versys 650 )

Probably buying a quality brand chain helps. I used a Regina chain on the Bandit.

Good luck!
Rob in KC
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-31-2016, 11:05 AM
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I have the RK chain tool. That one, and the Motion Pro Jumbo, are the two best ones, from what I could find when I was looking to purchase. I've broken several chains with the RK with no grinding (non-masterlink links as per the instructions).

Breaking your chain at this point is a non-issue. You have to weigh the cost of the tool against how many times you'll use it, as opposed to paying to have the dealer do it. I got one, as I change chains every other year or so on the trackbike. A street bike typically gets 15k miles out of a quality aftermarket chain.

If you haven't already, loosen the front sprocket nut before cutting the chain. Have someone stand on the rear brake, or put a pipe or something in between the rear wheel spokes and the swingarm. Don't put it in gear and try and use the transmission to hold it. Same when retorquing...
The front sprocket nut can be a bitch to break loose.

Last edited by HondaGalToo; 07-31-2016 at 11:10 AM.
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-31-2016, 12:25 PM
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I agree with HondaGalToo, a decent chain breaker tool with riveting capability will pay for itself. I wouldn't have a tool box without one. Also, excellent advise on how to remove the counter shaft sprocket, do not use the gear box, use the rear brake.

If you choose to use an angle grinder to remove the old chain, you're still stuck with the installation of the new chain. You can either go with a clipped master link (not good), have your dealer do the install or go out and buy the tool. Remember, unless you happen to buy a chain that is the exact length, you may have to remove a few links to get it to fit.

The clip vs rivet master link debate has been on going and it's up to you to decide what you want. I've never had a master link clip fail when motorcycles used to always come with them. For many years of riding in the dirt, I've always had the clip type, when cleaning the chain it's more convenient to remove the chain from the bike.

But now, I always rivet the chain on every bike I own. If you've seen the damage a loose chain can do at speed, even if you've been lucky up to now, you'll rivet your chain. For a street bike it makes sense and hp/torque of the motor doesn't make that much difference on whether or not the clip will fail.

My opinion is, most people don't maintain their clip. And, when removing/installing the clip they use a screw driver or something similar and twist it off. Or worse, they install it backwards. Should you decide to go with a clip type, don't install it and forget it. After removing it a few times, replace it, they're cheap.
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-31-2016, 12:50 PM
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ive been using clip master links on all my bikes all my life and have never had a problem when properly installed, key to it is install it properly and dont reuse an old bent worn out clip.. like redtail said every time ive seen one fail its installed backward or bent up and or rusted out, i always use a pair of needle nose pliers when installing/removing my master link clip so i dont bend it

but to each there own, i hope you get your money back for the broken link tool, that bites, ive been in the exact same boat. when you go to grind down a pin to remove your chain do it to a link thats at the middleish of the rear sprocket so it doesnt move around on you (and if you have some one else around have them hold on to the bike for added safety )
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-31-2016, 03:05 PM
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...I am now thinking of just grinding the link with an angle grinder from Harbor Freight. Would this be less painful? Anyone who's done this, please chime in. I need all the help I can get.

Or should I invest on a DID breaker/rivetting tool. Pricey... worth it? Saw a demo on youtube, no grinding of the pins, just use the tool to break the chain.

Thanks again.
I ALWAYS grind the ends off (using my $10 H-F grinder!) before I use my breaker-tool to push out the two pins (at home), tho' I HAVE changed a chain in a campground in Whitehorse, YT on my KLR, using JUST my chain-breaker tool!

Ed
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-31-2016, 04:26 PM
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Yeah why fart around with just using a chain breaker if you don't have to. I always take a grinder to the lucky link and get it done. Then just push pins out with the breaker. Then use the right die to set the new pins, very good point about just mushrooming and not till they split. That's a fine line on some I've done....and yes I've re-done from getting over zealous when setting the pins. I've had guys call me sounding like they were about to kill or cry "Why the heck won't this chain breaking piece of crap work!"

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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-01-2016, 08:48 AM
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Never had any issue breaking a chain in 40 years. I have used a Chain breaker and also a grinder and punch.. Zero issues with Master links as well. Nothing wrong with using a Master link, as long as you install the clip proper..
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-01-2016, 01:14 PM
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...very good point about just mushrooming and not till they split. That's a fine line on some I've done...
At home I ALWAYS measure the side-plate "depth" w/ calipers, then seat the new one to the SAME depth (involves tightening the tool SLIGHTLY, removing it, measuring, then re-installing it and repeating till it's correct), and when I'm "crimping" the master link pins, I measure the other pins, then crimp the master to the SAME length to avoid splitting the ends. You can buy a pretty good digital caliper from H-F for about $10 on sale. (I also have a VERY expensive Mitutoyo caliper that agrees w/ the H-F one....)

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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-01-2016, 03:08 PM
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At home I ALWAYS measure the side-plate "depth" w/ calipers, then seat the new one to the SAME depth (involves tightening the tool SLIGHTLY, removing it, measuring, then re-installing it and repeating till it's correct), and when I'm "crimping" the master link pins, I measure the other pins, then crimp the master to the SAME length to avoid splitting the ends. You can buy a pretty good digital caliper from H-F for about $10 on sale. (I also have a VERY expensive Mitutoyo caliper that agrees w/ the H-F one....)

-

I have a digital calipers and have done the exact same, for both items you mention above. Don't want to press the master link on too much, as it'll pinch and the link won't move.

I've had bikes with clip master links, but I prefer rivets.
My little Z125 pro has a clip style, that chain is so little (430 I think) that even if it had a rivet master, my chain tool would be too big, LOL.
For clip style masters, I safety wire them for extra security/peace of mind.
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-01-2016, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Chain broken, now the sprockets... keep or change

Should I change or keep them? I think they're good for another season? The files are too big to upload here so, please look at them in youtube. Thanks again in advance.

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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-02-2016, 03:31 AM
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Firstly, if this has been asked before I apologize...

I have 2013 V650 and I am about to change the chain and sprockets but being a newbie at this, I have to ask...

how do you know which is the master link on the oem chain? Every other link says DID and 520Vp2. I do not have a grinder so I have to break it with a chain breaking tool.

Thanks in advance.
The factory chain might have been made endless (no master link) by chain manufacturer especially for assembly line production - no chain tools on assembly line needed and no weak link the chain. (a master link is considered the weakest link in the chain)
Endless chain means they just loop it over the rear swing arm before attaching swing arm to bike.
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